2000 r1100rt sat for three years..

[Selden]

good deals thank ya I'm headed straight to the local parts store after work for new hoses and clamps.. Have the new u-shaped hose on order at the dealer along with fuel filter and whatnot.. Can't wait to get this stuff back together for another test run.. I'm getting close- I can feel it.. Gotta replace fork seals, have found a leak..

I would have been surprised if the fork seals didn't leak.

 

Re clamps, I noticed yesterday that the crankcase breather tube was also secured with what appear to be Oetker clamps. Unless I can reuse them, I can't think of any reason not to replace them with regular screw clamps, as that's a very low-pressure application.

 

As always, DR, you are a fount of useful and accurate information. A few years ago, a guy on this list who went by the handle "Twisty" was similarly helpful. Plus Mitch, of course.

[Paul Mihalka]

My gut feeling is that the main reason of using the Oetker clamps is easy factory assembly. They are a pain in the butt!

[dazzz]

Relative to the clamp on the crankcase breather at the airbox: Pulling a zip tie really tight with your needle nose pliers will surely keep it on. As was said, not much pressure.

[scottnew]

Good morning to all,

I'll be picking up my hose (u-shaped), filters and more fuel line after work this afternoon.. I'd like to clean out the fuel tank really well before I reassemble everything and take the chance of clogging up my new filter.. Any god thoughts on a good process for doing such? I figure I would just slosh some fresh fuel in there and empty it a few times..

[Selden]

Relative to the clamp on the crankcase breather at the airbox: Pulling a zip tie really tight with your needle nose pliers will surely keep it on. As was said, not much pressure.

Doh! Why didn't I think of that? Great tip, and if (god forbid) I ever have to go through this again, it's trivial to snip a zip tie — I'm certainly going to be snipping plenty before this is over.

 

Since this is turning into a winter project, I'm going to check all the wiring for chafing, and if possible slip expandable mesh sleeves around wire bundles; if not, some other sort of protection, from split tubing to electrical tape, depending on what's possible in the space available.

[Galactic Greyhound]

Since this is turning into a winter project, I'm going to check all the wiring for chafing, and if possible slip expandable mesh sleeves around wire bundles; if not, some other sort of protection, from split tubing to electrical tape, depending on what's possible in the space available.

 

When I restored my '96 R1100RT (laid up in a barn for 5 years) last winter, I found that a lot of the outer tape on the wiring harness was perished, mainly about the ABS and Motronic units. The insulation on the wiring bundles underneath was OK.

 

I wondered for a while about the best way of fixing this and eventually used 'HARNESS REPAIR TAPE, FABRIC 19mm 25M ROLL - BMW Part No. 61136902588' at a pricey £16 per roll.

 

Despite the cost I would consider using this item again. It is a fabric based rubberised self-amalgamating type tape which goes on very neatly, sticks well and seems to be similar to what was originally on the bike if that is important to you. You can wrap it on thicker on any areas where you think it might be necessary to do so.

 

Before I put the tupperware back on the bike last winter, I sprayed a can of ACF -50 (Anti Corrosion Formula fluid, made by The Lear Corporation) over everything underneath. At this winter's overhaul I was pleased to see that there is very little corrosion and have re-treated the bike.

 

 

[scottnew]

Thanks for the taping part number and info. That's actually something else I HAVE to do.. A good portion of the fatory tape is/has dry rotted and fallen off. I was at a loss as to the best tape/loom for the job.. Little pricey, but what the heck it must be good :-) I want to get to taping before the tank and "tupper-ware" go back into place for sure..

[philbytx]

HERE is a less costly alternative that they use on European car harnesses !

[jviss]

My favorite material for this is spiral wrap. It's available almost everywhere, e.g., Radio Shack, WalMart, and all over online.

 

[scottnew]

hey good call on the wraps ;-) That'll be my project this weekend.. Got my parts yesterday and have the new filter in place.. Gonna bolt everything back up in the next day or two as soon as I get wires re-wrapped..

[dirtrider]

Morning Scott

 

Make sure whatever you use on the wires is fairly drip/flame proof. I have seen quit a few car fires caused by plastic wire wrapping that melted then dropped a drip of plastic on a hot engine part then flashed into a fire.

 

Just melting is no biggie, but dripping flammable plastic is something you don't want to see.

 

[ESokoloff]

HERE is a less costly alternative that they use on European car harnesses !

Phil, do you know the Certoplast part# for this item?

Apparently Certoplast 525SE is the best for this application & they offer several types.

 

[philbytx]

Ed, 525SE is the stuff for underhood wiring, which, IMHO, is ideal for our applications . In fact, ADVRIDER had a similar thread earlier in the year.

[ESokoloff]

Yes I saw the adv thread & noted...

The tape is definitely the 525 and not the 510 Variety commonly confused by the net.

 

I'm still not clear if the product you recommended: KUFATEC Product Number: 33633 is Certoplast 525SE or not.

[Galactic Greyhound]

Ed, 525SE is the stuff for underhood wiring, which, IMHO, is ideal for our applications . In fact, ADVRIDER had a similar thread earlier in the year.

 

I inspected my roll of genuine BMW Harness Repair Tape (BMW Part No. 61 13 6 902 588) and the plastic bag it came in. The bag carries a 'BMW Group' sticky label showing: "25 Meter/metre, 61 13 6 902 588, EG Y, EW Y. a Barcode, Made in Germany, 01 QE3". However, the cardboard centre of the roll carries the legend 'Certoplast'.

 

This is however insufficient data to prove that it is the same as the 'Certoplast 525SE' product and indeed the BMW product may be a BMW Specification Controlled item from Certoplast. However, as DR says, the most important characteristics are that the harness protection be flameproof and does not melt easily so risking setting fire to the bike.

 

Edit - Ebay UK Supplier of Certoplast 525SE Genuine Insulating Tape VW AUDI:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-X-CERTOPLAST-525SE-GENUINE-INSULATING-TAPE-VW-AUDI-/280718806464?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item415c250dc0

 

Certoplast 525SE: http://www.certoplast.com/pages/products/frameset_automotive_eng.htm

[philbytx]

The Certoplast item on the Kufatec site is shown as the EXTERNAL tape. Certoplast is a German company that supplies the tape to VW/Audi/BMW not sure about MB.

 

HOWEVER, here is an updated linky to the Certoplast English website and their data sheets. It no longer shows item 525 but, instead, shows 514 as their current engine compartment/external fabric tape.

 

Hope this helps y'all out. I'm going buy a roll of the 514 as my R1100R harness covering (the plastic stuff!) is also disintegrating.

[scottnew]

OK so, new fuel and air filter along with fuel hoses are installed.. Bike fires right up now :-) However (gotta have a however, ha ha ) it runs smooth at about 1500 rpm's but stalls when any lower than that.. I'm also getting some shuttering/stalling when I put it under a load, i.e. driving it.. I'm gonna try and squeeze some freetime in today to adjust the valves and sync the TB's. I get a slight backfire if I drop the 'choke, as I call it" to its normal position after warming up.. I'm hoping/guessing this is due to its stalliing at low rpm.. Gonna put some more new plugs in as well.. Has anyone run into clogged o2 sensor's on this model (2000 r1100rt) ? All that being said- this project has really come a long way since its start- Thanks everyone for all of the info and help, I'd be hung up without it ;-)

[dirtrider]

Morning Scott

 

A faulty 02 sensor is a possibility if you have put a lot of fuel system cleaners through the fuel system (especially if the cleaners are not 02 & catalytic converter safe).

 

As a quick test you can unplug the 02 sensor then ride it (in fact the 1100RT's seem to run a lot better with the 02 disconnected.

 

OR, if you have all the tupperware back on just remove the CCP (little pink relay looking thing) in the fuse box as that will drive open loop operation on the 1100RT.

 

It sort of sounds like you might have one cylinder not working at low RPM's. If that is the case first thing is see if both side exhaust pipes are getting hot at idle (carefully as they might be very hot)

 

Also, make POSITIVELY SURE the throttle cables are FULLY seated in the little furrels where they enter each throttle body. (a very common problem on an 1100 that won't idle or run good at low speeds).

 

Otherwise check the fuel injectors for being plugged. Might also check the inlet screens where the fuel lines hook to the fuel injectors. With all that junk in your fuel system maybe it got as far as the fuel injectors.

 

 

Before syncing the TB's remove both side BBS screws (big brass screws) from the TB's then use a cat/02 safe carb cleaner to clean the BBS screw tips as well as the air passages under them. If those passages are coked or gummed up it won't idle worth a hoot.

 

[tallman]

Big +1 on cable routings and tension.

You may have to get under bike and look up to see it.

 

 

[scottnew]

Hey thanks for the advice.. I'll def check the O2 sensor and cables and all before the carb sync.. Maybe it is something like you've mentioned which would make more sense to correct before the sync anyhew :-)

[scottnew]

Pulled the relay for the o2 sensor out of the fuse box, removed, cleaned and re-installed the BABS and fuel injectors.. The BABS were pretty caked up and nasty.. Huge high five on the throttle cable furrel seating.. The right side (my problem side) was not seated and has since been corrected. Checked right cylinder valves and found the exhaust two are off a good bit.. Wil adjust to .30 today per the book and check/adjust the left side as well.. After this bit of stuff I fully hope for a big difference in idle/performance.. Can't stand the wait but I expect it'll be well worth it ;-)

 

OH___AND HAPPY NEW YEAR TO EVERYONE ;;;;----)))))

[BriSco]

As DR mentioned above, be sure to clean the passages that the BBS came out of. I pull the vacuum hoses off the bottom of the throttle bodies, place a shop towel under them, then hose them out with some carb cleaner from a spray can. Spray them a bit and let them soak and then rinse till clear cleaner drips out the bottom. Use the same towel, now wet to clean the BBS.

 

Balance the TB's after you set the valves and I'll bet you have a much smoother running engine!

 

[scottnew]

Def running much smoother now .. I like the idea with the spray cleaner too.. The other stuff made a huge difference in a positive way.. Almost to the point where I can prob start doing brake work.. I look forward to spraying out the tbs, thanks for the tip :-)

[Selden]

For the sake of enlightenment, what is the difference between the Certoplast 514 and, say, 3M Scotch Super 88 tape? This isn't a "cheap" question; I just want to know what's special about the Certoplast 514. Now that I have the tail in the air, it's quite obvious that re-wrapping some of the electrical harnesses is in my future.

 

The Certoplast item on the Kufatec site is shown as the EXTERNAL tape. Certoplast is a German company that supplies the tape to VW/Audi/BMW not sure about MB.

 

HOWEVER, here is an updated linky to the Certoplast English website and their data sheets. It no longer shows item 525 but, instead, shows 514 as their current engine compartment/external fabric tape.

 

Hope this helps y'all out. I'm going buy a roll of the 514 as my R1100R harness covering (the plastic stuff!) is also disintegrating.

[ESokoloff]

For the sake of enlightenment, what is the difference between the Certoplast 514 and, say, 3M Scotch Super 88 tape? This isn't a "cheap" question; I just want to know what's special about the Certoplast 514. Now that I have the tail in the air, it's quite obvious that re-wrapping some of the electrical harnesses is in my future.

 

I'm thinking a more appropriate question is whats the difference between the 24 different tapes that Certoplast produces for this application.

Look under :Products/Automotive.

 

I just called Kufatec and asked what Certoplast product they offer & was told they could not disclose that info.... WTH???

 

 

 

 

[scottnew]

Sorry, no helpful answers I can throw in here.. I ended up buying some spiral wrap at Radio Shack for some of my wiring.. Gonna order some of the fabric tape on my next dealer call (Work Cited; Galactic Greyhound ;-) (BMW Part No. 61 13 6 902 588).. May get the Certoplast to just to compare and decide once I can put my hands on few different flavors..

[Selden]

I just called Kufatec and asked what Certoplast product they offer & was told they could not disclose that info.... WTH???

That's truly bizarre, since you can go to kufatec.com and search for tape.

 

Unless someone makes an overwhelming case for the Certoplast tape, I'm leaning to using a mix of spiral wrap, PETE expandable mesh sleeve and 3M Super 88 electrical tape.

[scottnew]

Well the bike is now running good and I can't say that it needs anymore work put into the motor, at least for now.. I'm doing brakes at this point.. I flushed and replaced the front brake fluid over the weekend.. Made a big difference at the handle.. I do have a question for the forum though.. I have a nipple to work with on the front (i.e. speedbleeders) and there is a nipple at the rear.. However, the rear looks smaller and I cannot tell if it is in fact a speed-bleeder.. Does anyone know if such bleeders were installed at the factory on this model? Just trying to keep the mess to a minimum..

After doing the front brakes I am happy to say my brake lights no longer flash once reset.. Instead only the bottom light stays lit- not flashing.. I read about a post on cleaning out a small hole on the abs on this forum but have no idea what small hole I'm looking for.. Sound familiar to anyone?

[philbytx]

Yes, it is a smaller bleed screw. BTW - Speedbleeders not standard, just regular old bleeders !

 

 

[philbytx]

Scotch Super 88 is a vinyl tape whereas the Certoplast uses fabric.

[scottnew]

Thanks Mr. Philbytx.. I'll be working on the rear brakes asap after I get through with my day job :-)

[scottnew]

Thats good to know.. I find myself in need of a handful of knowledge on this bike.. Fun to work on, but there's a lot out there I don't know about.. I.E. the fifteen hundred different types of tapes out there and which is best to use where I will say that this site and the advice given within it is the best thing one can have next to a BMW cert mechanic stuffed inside a tool box ;-)

While we're at it.. Anyone ever repaired a crack/cracks in a plastic Carburetor Duct? Have some cracks showing up on my other bike (03 ZR7s) .. Parts are cheap enough to buy but its just a thought.. Thinking epoxy..

[jviss]

It may have had Speedbleeders installed at some point before you got it. If it's a completely original setup, you will likely have an odd looking thing in the right front caliper and a standard bleeder screw in the left. The odd thing is a filling point with an integral check valve. This bulletin explains it:

 

BMW Service Bulletin 2850

 

Other than that, the front calipers take a bleed screw with an M10x1 thread, the rear an M6x1.

 

I installed Speedbleeders way back in '04 and regret it now. I wish I still had the fill point thing, and standard bleeder screws. It turns out that I flush and refill annually, and almost never need to bleed in between, and Speedbleeders won't easily open unless the lines are full. I prefer to flush by emptying first, then filling. In addition, the thread sealant on my Speedbleeders has long since failed, and I'm not sure what they use for this.

 

jv

 

[scottnew]

Sounds exactly like what I have.. I've heard that the dealer would normally use the grub screw on the front right caliper to bleed with a special tool.. I bought a set of speedbleeders this weekend only to decide to leave it alone.. The front left caliper does have a speeder already in place.. Thanks for the service Bulletin..

Also, feel bad because I keep saying I'll post pics but will try to remember to today.. Never found my camera, only my 3 yr old "knew/knows" where it went.. However, gotta new laptop for the shop with a grainy built in camera and it should be suffice.. Old laptop got mad at all the info I downloaded for this bike project and started locking up ha ha

[Alfred02]

In addition, the thread sealant on my Speedbleeders has long since failed, and I'm not sure what they use for this.

Go here: http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/

Bout a third down on the page, there is an item called "sealant".

Cost $10,-

The shipping cost will probably be the same....LOL

[Michaelr11]

If you have a Speedbleeder installed at the rear, be aware that they use SAE sized heads - the rear is a 1/4 inch size. The front is I think, 5/16 but 11mm will fit. If you have the fill valve on one of the front calipers, you can insert a bleed valve (Speed or OEM) into the opening at the grub screw, or you can remove the fill valve and insert a bleeder into the caliper and have a bleed valve on each side. Careful when closing the Speedbleeders, not too tight - they are somewhat brittle and are known to snap off.

[scottnew]

Ok thanks for the heads up and info Michaelr11.. That makes it even easier :-)

[jviss]

If you have a Speedbleeder installed at the rear, be aware that they use SAE sized heads - the rear is a 1/4 inch size. The front is I think, 5/16 but 11mm will fit. If you have the fill valve on one of the front calipers, you can insert a bleed valve (Speed or OEM) into the opening at the grub screw, or you can remove the fill valve and insert a bleeder into the caliper and have a bleed valve on each side. Careful when closing the Speedbleeders, not too tight - they are somewhat brittle and are known to snap off.

I believe that is incorrect. I just located the invoice for the Speed Bleeders I bought in '04, for my 2001 R1100RT, and the part numbers are SB1010S for the front, and SB6100 for the rear, which are M10x1 and M6x1, respectively. "x1" denotes a 1 mm thread pitch.

 

Just for grins, I measured the threads just now! While I don't have a metric thread pitch gauge, I do have an SAE one, and I can state with near certainty that these threads and 1mm pitch (half way between my 26TPI and 24TPI gauges). I also measured five threads on my digital dial caliper at 5mm.

 

 

[scottnew]

Thanks for the part numbers and info regarding the correct sizes and whatnot fellas :-) Back brake bleed was no problem and its now a good bit tighter.. Still have the bottom warning light staying lit once running though.. Gonna start looking into some of the more common diagnoses for it first chance I get while working tomorrow

[Michaelr11]

I believe that is incorrect. I just located the invoice for the Speed Bleeders I bought in '04, for my 2001 R1100RT, and the part numbers are SB1010S for the front, and SB6100 for the rear, which are M10x1 and M6x1, respectively. "x1" denotes a 1 mm thread pitch.

Sorry John, but you aren't checking everything that Speedbleeder sends to you. Yes, the threads and pitch are metric. However, the original stock that they use to make these is SAE size, so the top part where you place your wrench to open and close them is SAE, not metric. Speedbleeder clearly says this in their documentation. This is from the speedbleeder.com web site:

Installation Notes:

Speed Bleeders are made from one of these four hex stock sizes...

1/4" hex, 5/16" hex, 3/8" hex, 7/16" hex

This also applies to metric sizes. This means that metric wrenches will not work with Speed Bleeder even though it might have a metric sized thread. You have to use an inch wrench or SAE wrench size. The reason is that metric hex stock is not readily available at a reasonable price in this country.