2000 r1100rt sat for three years..

[OldBMWMaster]

Some of you guys crack me up. Are you all this anal or are you just yanking this poor guy's chain?

[KDeline]

Some of you guys crack me up. Are you all this anal or are you just yanking this poor guy's chain?

 

Most are that anal. Ask a oil question......

[4wheeldog]

Some of you guys crack me up. Are you all this anal or are you just yanking this poor guy's chain?

 

I believe the bike in question has a shaft, not a chain. And I am not yanking that, on a bet.

[Selden]

A picture (dyno chart) is worth a thousand words.

Maybe.......But the intake tubes are not the only things contributing to the difference between the torque curves. Different compression, cam timing etc.

What you get is a difference in the seat of the pants feel, (not that there is anything wrong with that!)

But that is not the case at all. These dyno curves are for the same engine; the only difference is the intake tubes. Illustrated article here: BMW R1100RS--Installing GS Tubes

 

NB: This mod applies only to the R1100RS/RT engines.

[Selden]

I don't recall he said his was leaking.

The seals weren't leaking when I bought my 1999 RT. A bike that has sat for 3 years is likely to have fork seals that have dried out, and if they have, they will leak. Scottnew said he intended to change all fluids, and fork oil is one of the fluids. As long as he's changing the oil, he might as well do it in a manner that reduces the chances of a leak down the road.

 

I did the same transeal/oil "fix" to a Honda Pacific Coast that had a leaking fork seal; I rode that motorcycle to Alaska and back; again, not a hint of a leak, after a fairly severe pounding over some occasionally rough roads. The only downside to this mix is that it may increase stiction slightly, but given the compliance of a telelever front end, that seems like a pretty minor issue.

[jviss]

I don't recall he said his was leaking.

The seals weren't leaking when I bought my 1999 RT. A bike that has sat for 3 years is likely to have fork seals that have dried out, and if they have, they will leak. Scottnew said he intended to change all fluids, and fork oil is one of the fluids. As long as he's changing the oil, he might as well do it in a manner that reduces the chances of a leak down the road.

 

I did the same transeal/oil "fix" to a Honda Pacific Coast that had a leaking fork seal; I rode that motorcycle to Alaska and back; again, not a hint of a leak, after a fairly severe pounding over some occasionally rough roads. The only downside to this mix is that it may increase stiction slightly, but given the compliance of a telelever front end, that seems like a pretty minor issue.

 

So, are you saying that he should repair, renew, replace everything that might break or leak? That's ridiculous.

A bike that has sat for 3 years is likely to have fork seals that have dried out.

Based on what? I don't think that's so. This can be fixed if it leaks. On an 'RT it's not going to matter much anyway if it leaks.

 

The guy's just trying to get this running, why all the maintenance red herrings?

 

[nrp]

The guy's just trying to get this running, why all the maintenance red herrings?

I agree - Unless it has been parked in salt water, just change the oil & brake fluids, get it running & drive the heck out of it. After all it is only three years - not thirty.

[OldBMWMaster]

I bought a K bike off ebay. I hitched a ride to Atlanta and picked it up. Got it started and drove it to a gas station. Put in Textron, filled it with gas, put air in the bald cracked tires and rode it back to NC. I then changed everything that looked like it needed to be changed, installed a new set of Pirellis and gave it to my son. That was in July. He is still riding it hard...no problems.

 

OP...get it running and ride it hard.

[carolinarider]

scottnew, I sent you a PM..

[scottnew]

Well, I was only able to get about thirty minutes of playtime in the other day.. So, I have added some sea foam to both the fue and oil.. Gonna try runing that for a little while and then change the oil again.. I'm a little unnerved by one thing though.. I pulled the plug from the air box and had about 1/2 a quart of oil come out.. Hoping that the bike was on its side at some point in storage or whatnot and that its not something more major internally in the motor.. I'll run it today and post the results ;-)

[Boffin]

Oil in the airbox is often caused by over-filling the oil, and given the mix-up with the oil-filler mentioned, it is quite likely that the PO over-filled the bike. If the oil level is above the top of the oil sight-glass then it can be confused with too-low an oil level.

 

The other possibility is gummed rings leading to too-much crankcase pressure, blowing oil into the airbox.

 

Andy

[jviss]

What product did you put in the oil, and how much?

 

Oil in the airbox can get there from a lay down, and also from too much oil in the crankcase. Make sure you know how to check the oil. If the oil cooler hasn't drained into the crankcase when you check the level, you could end up adding too much oil, which will end up in the airbox.

[tallman]

Scott,

At the risk of being blasted, again.

Your bike sat.

It had dubious maintenance done by an unskilled owner (based on some of your postings).

What anyone else did or did not do with their "get it running" bike has nothing to dow ith your situation.

 

At this point, based on the oil/wrong bolts/sitting/no documented maintenance, and your stated plan to replace all the needed stuff sooner or later, I'm going to say...

save yourself a lot of tail chasing.

Start with squre one and proceed systematically through a complete maintenance.

Check linkages/cables.

All fluids/plugs/filters/brakes/valves/synch.

Establish a known baseline.

Assume the worst wrt maintenance.

Sorry to sound negative but I've seen so many bikes like this

and there are no rules.

Each bike is distinct.

But, in the end, they all need a known baseline to

get squared away.

Best wishes.

[philbytx]

I'm with Tim on this and that is besides me being totally anal ! Going over the whole bike will also be an educational experience for a newbie owner and he does seem NOT to be in a hurry to take a road trip on it! As Tim stated, given the lack of documentation and mechanical knowledge of the PO, getting the bike in good running order by checking ALL the systems and doing preventative maintenance, makes eminent sense.

 

And, as for OLDBMWMaster's post about riding an older stored bike on bald and cracked tires, you sir IMHO, are a nutjob !

 

Oh! And I do speak from experience about reviving stored bikes as my 2000 R1100R sat for 3 years, was entirely original and only had 6700 miles on it!

 

 

[scottnew]

I'm with you guys on the full maintenance run through. In order to really have any reliability and for safety, I think it'll be best to check everything. I def need to change all of the cables. THe clutch cable works well but the metal is exposed in places and thus has some rust.. As for the breaks I'm gonna change the lines, drain/refil/bleed the fluid, replace the rear rotor ans see about having the front turned, replace the pads, and hopefully replace the caliper seals. Every other fluid (in my book) needs to be changed and the fork seals and rear shock also need refreshing. Here soon (after playtime with my three year old) I'm gonna get outside and start turning wrenches and will post how it goes and what I run into.. Maybe the sea foam (my additive Jviss, instructions called for 1 1/2 ounces per quart of oil, I used shy of 1 ounce per q.)will have worked some magic over night .-)

[philbytx]

Scott,

Definitely R&R the clutch cable....they aren't that expensive.

The bad news is that the rotors really can't be turned on our bikes but can be freshened up using abrasives such as 60 grit emery paper coupled with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. EBC HH brake pads are very good and much cheaper and offer equal or better performance than the ridiculously priced stock BMW pads. If you are doing a caliper seal replacement, you can do a full brake bleed from the main reservoirs to the ABS unit first, then to the wheel cylinders. One thing to remember, and if you are entirely anal like myself , you can do the full brake bleed, replace the tupperware then run the bike and by hard application of the brakes (careful now!), activate the ABS pump solenoids using BOTH braking circuits (fronts and rear). This would be a check to see if everything is fine with the ABS system itself plus, if it works just fine, you get another chance to remove any gunk/old fluid left in the system by doing a quick end to end bleed afterwards. One caveat - Given the age and storage, you may well need to replace the rubber brake lines. Go with SS/Teflon lines.

 

The rear shock may be fine and simply need an "preload" adjuster refill. An easy peasy fix.

 

 

[scottnew]

Thanks for the brake info.. I had my doubts/concerns about not being able to turn the rotors.. I will try the emery paper though, good idea. On a different note: It does start and run at this point.. It does run a little rough though and still smokes. Its hard to say, no more than I've run it, if the smoke is getting any better. With the amount of oil that came out of the air box I believe it'll take some serious run time to burn off and oil thats where it should'nt be. There is also some oil and moisture that's coming out of the exhaust pipe.. When I first go to start it I have to hold the, as i call it "Choke" wide open and then sort of pump it to keep it running. Once it fruns for a minute I can back it down to idle.. Not sure if there is a fuel starvation issue of dirty injector thing happening.

[jviss]

Please allow me to provide some perspective here: it's only been 3 years. That's like, almost nothing. The only big deal should be the gas. More important than any of these other recommendations would be to find out the circumstances of the abandonment of the bike. Can you interview the previous owner? Why did he stop using it? Do you have the service records?

 

Based on your original post, assuming there was nothing wrong, or broken on the bike, I still stand by changing the oil, changing the gas, changing the brake fluid, and just riding it.

 

How many miles on it?

 

 

[carolinarider]

Hey Scott, glad to hear you got it running. I had to work this weekend, but I'm off on Tuesday and Wednesday this week, although I may have to start my Christmas shopping (I work best under pressure!). I can help you with the valves, TBS adjustment, HES changeout if needed (don't ask..), fuel filter change, etc. You got my # give me a call when you're ready...

[philbytx]

John,

Your perspective might be skewed a little .

Mine was in storage for 3 years INSIDE an aircraft hangar (not heated or a/c'd) and I experienced several issues with the fuel system, deteriorated rubber hoses/lines, plastic coverings, gb and fd seals, etc and, in short order, the HES. Yup! That's like, almost nothing right?

 

Also, if you recall, Scott is in SC and in his first post stated that one year of storage on his RT was OUTSIDE. That's a bike unused, unloved and left to the elements. The good news is that he has it started but it doesn't run well. Given all the advice on this forum, and as Tim stated, he can easily get it to a baseline by servicing it FIRST and then, if he still has issues, go from there.

 

Sorry, I complete disagree with you. There are definitely safety issues to be considered.

 

 

 

[Selden]

+1. Better to be paranoid than stranded.

[scottnew]

I'll call for sure Some help is always nice to have, esp with something like this that I'm not at all familiar with.. THANKS ;-) I'd also like to thank everyone else on this site for all of the advice and expertise.. Next to hiring a mechanic this site has been more helpful than I ever would've imagined..

The guy I got the bike from is hard to get ahold of-- exagerate the odds of winning the lottery, multiply by infinity, square that number, and you're not even close.. HaHa..

I was told that the bike was running and had been maintained but that he had to take a break for health reasons.. Something about a drunken fall had injured his back.. That said, theres no telling about the maintenance done.. I can tell from the grooving in the rear rotor and lack of brake pad replacement that his priority's were not within the bike, at least towards the latter part of his owning it.. The bike has just under forty thousand miles on it.. Sounds like a lot to me but from what I hear these things go for a hundred plus.. Of course I'm the kinda fella that has to have something to tinker with therefore have plenty of time in the future to mess with this thing. Don't wanna finish it all in one day or it'll cost me another project, the wife will proable get mad if I bring home another bike or riding mower.. Two of each is my cutoff as I'm told, ha ha.. On the other hand I took her for a ride on my spare bike (ZR7S) thhe other day and she loves it.. Was her first time ever on a bike.. Cazy hunh? I knew she'd love it, just had to talk her into breaking the ice ;-) The spare is more of a toy in my book when compared to the r1100rt.. I'm really looking forward to the day that we can take a little weekend trip togther on the rt..

p.s. I'll get some pictures posted here soon.. We're slowly taking our house apart room by room in search of the camera.. Pretty sure our little one hid it playing at some point, hh aha

[Selden]

I'd also like to thank everyone else on this site for all of the advice and expertise.. Next to hiring a mechanic this site has been more helpful than I ever would've imagined..

Ask 10 people here, and you will get at least 11 opinions. Boxers are "different" but actually relatively straightforward. Maintained well, a good one can last a long time.

[jviss]

John,

Your perspective might be skewed a little .

Mine was in storage for 3 years INSIDE an aircraft hangar (not heated or a/c'd) and I experienced several issues with the fuel system, deteriorated rubber hoses/lines, plastic coverings, gb and fd seals, etc and, in short order, the HES. Yup! That's like, almost nothing right?

 

Also, if you recall, Scott is in SC and in his first post stated that one year of storage on his RT was OUTSIDE. That's a bike unused, unloved and left to the elements. The good news is that he has it started but it doesn't run well. Given all the advice on this forum, and as Tim stated, he can easily get it to a baseline by servicing it FIRST and then, if he still has issues, go from there.

 

Sorry, I complete disagree with you. There are definitely safety issues to be considered.

 

 

I'm puzzled. I never said he shouldn't address safety related issues, I'm objecting to folks saying he should put some voodoo oil mix into the front forks, changing over to GS intake tubes, or that he has to adjust the valves before trying it out.

 

Good tires, good gas, new battery, change the oil, check the brakes, change the brake fluid, everything tight - good to go!

 

Is transmission fluid a safety issue? Intake tubes? Valve clearance? Final drive fluid?

[jviss]

John,

Your perspective might be skewed a little .

Mine was in storage for 3 years INSIDE an aircraft hangar (not heated or a/c'd) and I experienced several issues with the fuel system, deteriorated rubber hoses/lines, plastic coverings, gb and fd seals, etc and, in short order, the HES. Yup! That's like, almost nothing right?

 

Also, if you recall, Scott is in SC and in his first post stated that one year of storage on his RT was OUTSIDE. That's a bike unused, unloved and left to the elements. The good news is that he has it started but it doesn't run well. Given all the advice on this forum, and as Tim stated, he can easily get it to a baseline by servicing it FIRST and then, if he still has issues, go from there.

 

Sorry, I complete disagree with you. There are definitely safety issues to be considered.

 

 

 

What kind on environment is important. A high heat environment is bad. So is an indoor environment that has a lot of ozone, e.g., from electric motors, or volatile solvents nearby; either would explain the deterioration of the hoses on your bike. I can't imagine what would have caused problems with your plastic coverings, but I would think that's unusual, and would be a clue that your bike stored in a harsh environment, or was subject to harsh conditions at some time. Mine's a 2001, and while I like to ride it, it has spent most of its life, 10+ years now, in an unheated, non-A/C garage, an has none of those problems. I don't see how storage could cause a final drive seal to leak. I don't know what a "gb" seal is. I don't know how storage could contribute to an HES failure. Maybe you're attributing all of your bike's issues to storage.

[scottnew]

Long time no update on my part... Finally got a little time in today to mess around with the bike.. I've been slammed at work, have a main employee out sick, and my little girl has strep throat :-(

Decided to run the bike for a few minutes after sitting for a week or so.. I checked the oil first as always and it looked good, however I had around a 1/2 cup or so come out of the air box .. Pulled and cleaned the plugs- they looked pretty good.. After the bike got going for a minute or so I started to get some smoke- oil, and noticed if I let it down more than half 'choke' it would develop this occasional chirp sound.. Gonna start looking into causes and I don't know maybe I'll get lucky ;-)

[4wheeldog]

The chirp is most likely the alternator belt. In may have taken a "Set" from the long sit. It may make sense to just replace it.....It is not a very difficult job, and failure on the road is no fun.

Am I to understand that you checked the airbox for oil, found none, then ran the engine, and found 1/2 cup? If so, you either have a crankcase venting problem or blow by from stuck rings. Actually riding the bike, puting a load on the engine while up to temperature, may get your rings unstuck. Good luck.

[scottnew]

I will def change the alt belt, looks easy enough ;-) Originally, when I checked the air box a lot of oil drained out- a quart or better.. Then, after running it for a short period, under no load, when I checked the air box yesterday about a 1/2 cup came out.. Only thing I can figure is stuck rings or bad ones, and / or maybe the crankcase ventilation issue.. I've heard of a clogged pcv valve possible being the culprit.. Any other thoughts? GOnna take her out on the road this weekend under a load and make short runs in the neighborhood..

[jviss]

If the crankcase is over-full with oil, it will end up in the airbox. It is easy to overfill these if you don't know how to properly check the oil. Sometimes the oil doesn't drain from the oil cooler right away when you stop the motor, and it makes it appear as if you are low on oil. There's a thing called "the oil dance" that I don't know completely, maybe someone can chime in, that involves using the sidestand first, then the center stand, to make the oil drain from the oil cooler.

 

 

[scottnew]

I have come across some info regarding oil overfill.. The sight glass, when on the center stand is at the half mark.. More and more I'm hearing that the rings are bad.. Talked to a dealer today, they quoted seven hundred plus parts.. No machine work included.. With no machine work being done- if not needed I feel confident in just doing a ring replacement myself.. However, I have this gut feeling that if it needs new rings that I'm looking at some machine work.. Trouble is I can't find a shop that'll do anything more than bore cylinders around here.. Would rather send it off to someone that would refit everything in their shop, i.e. let them be respons for getting the right size new pistons/rings..

[jviss]

I'm not a professional mechanic, but I've rebuilt a few motors, usually top-end jobs, including ring jobs, cylinder boring and fitting of oversized pistons and rings, etc., etc.

 

I think it is highly unlikely given the mileage this bike has (just under 40k miles) that the rings are shot, unless the bike was subjected to some extreme event or storage condition. In fact, I think mine (at 45k) are not even broken in completely. The cylinders have an extremely hard surface.

 

If the rings are stuck in the piston ring grooves, you can hope that some running will loosen things up. I've never heard of stuck rings on these bikes, but I defer to the experts.

 

At least, before you disassemble it, check the compression!

 

jv

 

[4wheeldog]

I have come across some info regarding oil overfill.. The sight glass, when on the center stand is at the half mark.. More and more I'm hearing that the rings are bad.. Talked to a dealer today, they quoted seven hundred plus parts.. No machine work included.. With no machine work being done- if not needed I feel confident in just doing a ring replacement myself.. However, I have this gut feeling that if it needs new rings that I'm looking at some machine work.. Trouble is I can't find a shop that'll do anything more than bore cylinders around here.. Would rather send it off to someone that would refit everything in their shop, i.e. let them be respons for getting the right size new pistons/rings..

 

The rings in these things don't "Go bad" easily.....And not for 100k miles or more. They could be stuck, which may self correct if you actually get it hot and put them under pressure.

It is not really accurate to check the oil after a stationary run.......The engine has to be fully up to temperature from a ride of at least 10 miles, after which you leave the bike on the side stand for 5-10 minutes, before checking the level on the center stand. If I fire my bike up cold, run it for a few minutes without riding, and do the above, I will have no oil showing in the glass. If I then do the above, it could be near the top.

 

You need to ride this thing before you decide what problems the motor might have. Just sayin'.

 

And, by the way......The cylinders are nikosil (sp?) and are not subject to boring. Stuff is very hard, as are the rings.......Even if the rings are bad, which I still consider unlikely, machine work is most likely not required. Good luck.

[Galactic Greyhound]

I will def change the alt belt, looks easy enough ;-) Originally, when I checked the air box a lot of oil drained out- a quart or better.. Then, after running it for a short period, under no load, when I checked the air box yesterday about a 1/2 cup came out.. Only thing I can figure is stuck rings or bad ones, and / or maybe the crankcase ventilation issue.. I've heard of a clogged pcv valve possible being the culprit.. Any other thoughts? GOnna take her out on the road this weekend under a load and make short runs in the neighborhood..

 

First check you haven't overfilled the engine with oil as Jviss has commented. I keep my '96 R1100RT oil level at the red dot halfway up the sightglass with bike on the centrestand and cold engine.

 

If the oil level is OK, and you suspect stuck rings, I would be hesitant to take the bike out for a blast without trying to free off the rings first. Take out both plugs and inject about 1/4 cup of diesel into each cylinder and leave overnight. Next morning, take out the Motronic Fuse No. 5 (to kill the ignition circuit), turn over the engine on the starter with the plugs out to clear out the cylinders. Refit plugs and fuse.

 

Take it very easy for the first couple of miles then stop and check out for signs of overheating, tight engine, leaks etc. Let it cool down for about 30 minutes. If all seems OK, repeat after 4, then 8, then 16 miles.

 

Good luck and enjoy the bike!

 

[Boffin]

If it were me, I would make sure the oil level is correct the easy way - drain the oil, empty the filter, then refill with the correct quantity of oil as per the handbook. (which is whatever 3.75 litres is in US quarts)

 

ANdy

[jviss]

That's hardly the easy way! I'd call that the hard way. There's a sight glass, after all.

[philbytx]

Don't despair/get your knickers in a twist just yet .

 

As others have said, you could try to free the rings (if they ARE stuck) first and then take 'er out for a run and gently stretch the motor. A simple check of your exhaust gases, e.g. continued smoking, colour of gas, clean white rag over the outlet to see/smell if oil on it. Get the motor up to 5 bars and run it for a few miles. You can check the oil cooler (under the "chin" of the front fairing) at 5 bars to ensure that the oil thermostat is working fine and that the motor is up to temp.

 

After the run, put the motor on the side stand, allow to cool down and then put on the centre stand. You can check the airbox drain and the sight glass level after the motor has cooled and its on the centre stand. You can then see how much has blown by and what you need to raise the level back to your current half sight glass.

 

 

[scottnew]

Thanks for the motivational insight everyone.. I like the sounds of the hard cylinders and low odds of the rings being 'shot.' I'll give your ideas a shot and let ya know how it goes.. I'm def not gonna go straight into the motor for rings or whatnot.. I hold that for way way way --last resort.. Its supposed to be clear in my area saturday, so I'll put her on the road then and post my results.. I got only a few minutes worth of work time done on the bike today.. Came home to a half gallon of used oil on the garage floor.. Thankfully it wasn't from the bike and (thought it was at first, not a fun way to enter the shop after a long day) was a quick cleanup.. Sheeeeeeeeeeeewwwwwwwww :-)

[scottnew]

OKey Dokey, heres where I stand.. I was able to get the bike running and up to full five bars this weekend.. Actually drove it around the area I live in keeping the speed around thirty (need new tires). The bike quit smoking and actually ran pretty good.. Changed the oilk again, final drive and gear oil, ect.. However, I ran it monday and it spuddered and acted starved for fuel.. Pulled the tank and ordered a new filter and filter hose. The hose with the bend (pn-16117657172) had some signs of breaking down.. Also had a small hole- thus I would assume causing a pressure drop- explaining the fuel starving issue- I hope.. Does anyone know if the 2000 models are fitted with ethanol resistant fuel supply lines? At this point I want to replace all of the lines, does anyone know if this line can be purchased from your local auto parts place, ie advance auto parts.. I would like to buy the exterior lines from somewhere other than the dealer and refit all the fittings with stainless worm clamps..

[jviss]

You might consider relocating the fuel filter to outside the tank, for easy replacement (I did).

 

[scottnew]

I was looking into that as well.. I've found some interesting info online for that procedure.. As much as I hate to do things twice, at this point I'm just trying to see if the cracked hose replacement and filter will cure the spuddering issue and will go back to the filter again later for relocation.. I'm a little concerned that the lines may all break down due to the ethanol problem.. The dealer here couldn't verify if this model was suitable for ethanol or not..

[dirtrider]

Morning Scott

 

That U shaped hose with a pin hole in it could sure explain your sputtering & running poorly as that significantly lowers the fuel pressure available to the fuel injectors.

 

 

On the U shaped hose a BMW OEM is probably best, on the other INTERNAL fuel hoses you can get those at your local auto parts store. Just be DARN SURE the hose you get is rated for both high pressure & rated for use SUBMERGED.

 

Regular fuel injection hose has a good internal core that will handle fuel/ethanol/pressure quite good but the outer layers are NOT rated for use submerged so will degrade quickly if used inside the fuel tank.

 

Also use specific (Oetiker) high pressure fuel injection rated hose clamps not standard screw down type.

 

 

[scottnew]

As for the fuel filter.. Should it take a lot of force to blow air through it? Mine does, and when I do get air through the fuel that comes out is dark and yucky.. Found my problem?

[scottnew]

Good morning to you to Dirtrider and thanks for the info.. THe hose clamps you're talking about.. Do those require the special crimping tool and can I get those at my local parts store to? Trying to avoid spending fifty bucks on a tool that I'll hopefully only use this one time...

[dirtrider]

Scott

 

No, the filter should be somewhat free flowing. That dark gunky fluid is no good either.

 

If you used a fuel system cleaner (like Techron) on a bike that sat a long time that will remove accumulated varnish from inside the fuel tank & plug the filter quickly)

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

Scott

 

Technically those clamps require a special tool but tile nipper or even side cutters will work in a pinch.

 

[scottnew]

Awesome thank you .. I did you a fuel treatment and that all makes sense now. DO you know if local auto parts stores carry those clamps?

 

[ESokoloff]

Also use specific (Oetiker) high pressure fuel injection rated hose clamps not standard screw down type.

 

 

 

So whats wrong with using fuel injector hose clamps? (Not necessarily this size or brand).

[dirtrider]

DO you know if local auto parts stores carry those clamps?

 

Scott

 

Sort of. They should have that type clamp but probably not the exact metric size. The fit-size range of those clamps is not great but you should be able to find clamps that work.

 

If you are REAL careful you can probably open up the originals then re-use them. Problem is this isn't 100% so you should have some new ones handy.

 

[dirtrider]

 

So whats wrong with using fuel injector hose clamps? (Not necessarily this size or brand).

 

 

Morning Eric

 

Nothing, if they fit correctly & you can find them.

 

[scottnew]

good deals thank ya I'm headed straight to the local parts store after work for new hoses and clamps.. Have the new u-shaped hose on order at the dealer along with fuel filter and whatnot.. Can't wait to get this stuff back together for another test run.. I'm getting close- I can feel it.. Gotta replace fork seals, have found a leak..