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I've been an RT rider for 20 years. Will continue to be an RT rider.....but if you were going to buy a GS or GSA to add to the fleet, what would you buy? What would be must have's and nice to have's? My riding style in 99.9% street. The occasional beach ride in sand would be nice. For dirt, I ride my Penton. My rides are generally 250 to 500 miles single day. Average ride is in the country (paved) and about 250 miles. 99.9% is in daylight with night only by poor planning on my part. I ride with a couple of folks who have pretty new GS's and seems like they are always stopping for gas when I still have way over 100 miles left on my RT. I'm concerned about that, but also concerned a GSA might be too big. Weather protection is pretty important here in SE Texas as afternoon rain showers are common. I don't plan to ride in rain, but it happens often. If I were to add a bike I would expect 5-6000 miles a year in addition to RT miles. I'm 6 feet even and about 190 lbs. I don't want to buy new but would buy 1-3 year old. Almost certainly would have to be of the water generation. Recently retired now with time to ride. I'm in good shape and good stamina Thanks for you thoughts.
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OK. I took off r. side plastic (looking from front). 1. Throttle cables appear all intact and connected. (Although I cannot see the middle portion of it). I can feel play when I pull on it and from what I can glean; they appear to not be hung up anywhere. 2. Throttle appears to rotate thru all range of motion with no hang ups (and returns to original position when released). 3. I turned cruise control to OFF position, but with same results. 4. Attached pic. where red arrows point: everything feels snug with no play where it connects. (I believe this to be the "splitter box"?). Or is this the cruise control servo?? Thanks again
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OK. Maybe not take off the gas tank. But at a minimum the Tupperware. correct? Thx again.
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Have now fitted braided lined and all seems good other than a leaking master cylinder.It didn't leak before but looks as though i will need a rebuildkit.
- Yesterday
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RIP Peter Fonda. Great memories.
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Yeah, that's what I did originally as well. Just the fork lights. You'd think since the factory turn signals are already LED, you wouldn't need a resistor.
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Fall Appalachian Riding Tour (FART) - Sept 25-29 Ellijay, GA
wbw6cos replied to Indy Dave's topic in Appalachian Riding Tour
I hate that he had to ride all those routes prior to the FART. I mean what a sacrifice he has to endure. Oh my, the humanity. Kudos!! -
Evening Bill97 Those trans cases are just thick enough to not break under normal usage but the thin alloy case is one of the reasons that you can hear all the gear noise & clacking while shifting. Just don't beat on it too hard & you will be OK.
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I took a chance on a Walmart listing for an Akrapovic Slip-on muffler for $50. I was wishing it was a misprint price, or maybe they forgot to add a zero somewhere. Turns out... Hopes are easy to get up and just as easy to fall back down. It doesn't show Akra anywhere. I didn't come with a mid pipe, but I might throw it on my bike for fun just to hear what it sounds like before I return it on Monday.
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Yeah that has been a concern in the back of my mind on this. A quick check of beemer boneyard showed no replacement transmissions right now .... Always seems to be a fine line between hard enough and 'Oh Sh**'. I'm guessing that the case may be thinner than what is on my 88 K100 ! Most engineering advances seem to be how thin can we make it before it breaks too often.
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Ok, awesome. Thank you
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Evening AZrider You might not have to remove the fuel tank. You can check the short lower cables with the tank in place (follow the cables to the L/H side splitter box then make sure that they are fully plugged into the splitter box. (In fact make sure that all the cables are fully inserted into the splitter box) The cruise control cable comes out from under the fuel tank & runs to the R/H front cruise control servo (those have a habit of pulling apart at the cable adjuster (about mid cable). I think that you can just get to that in front of the fuel tank (way down in there though).
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Evening Bill97 Just be careful in how hard that you beat on any tool or technique as that BMW transmission case is a fairly thin alloy casting, you don't want to crack your trans case.
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Thanks you two for the quick reply. I did have the gas tank off so I could rout the wiring harness for the new lights. Hopefully a snagged cable is all I have to deal with. Time to take everything apart again.
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That is an amazing technique / tutorial .... thank you ! I'm hoping mine isn't that stuck but it gives me a path forward it it is. My biggest problem is the shroud around it that serves to drain the oil to the side plate.
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I bought these and they are great. Took 6 days from China. I was actually amazed at how nice they are. Very high quality stainless bolts. Frankly I was expecting it to be crap but I was more than wrong. Literally about 1/3 the price and probably made in the same factory as the name-brand item. Nice plus is that you can get the side fairings off for regular maintenance without having to remove the bars. Engine Guards
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"New" R1100S - won't start, but that's OK because it won't stop either...
szurszewski replied to szurszewski's topic in Oilheads
Thanks for the additional input D.R. I think I will have it rideable tomorrow (assuming I have at least the residual brakes) enough to run around the block. I’ll post back back after that. -
Bill97, Don't know if your buke is the same as a 95 R1100GS, but here is an article I found on a different BMW website that might apply to yours, https://ibmwr.org/index.php/2006/06/17/extracting-a-stuck-drain-plug/. You may have to register with ibmwr.org before you can see the article.
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Doesn’t sound fun AT ALL! Yup, piloting a boat that size, even with a 200 HP motor, will definitely get you to appreciate how the Exxon Valdez ended up on the shoal. If permanently docked is the plan, then maybe skip the powered boat and put a house on a barge. Saw a bunch of these on my travels to the Netherlands. $$$ might get a little crazy though!
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The Fab; That sounds like a good one to try and easier than finding the lefthanded twist drills I saw once. I figured this was a common occurrence when the replacement plug was shown as 'Current' - Hex head instead of hex socket ! Will try this tomorrow
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I have had success by smacking the plug with a drift to compress the crush washer. The way to do it is get a drift with about a 1/4 inch face, then smack it at 12 o'clock and move around the 'clock face'. I use a 6 oz. hammer. Go around a few times. This compresses the crush washer additionally. Then try the oversized bits, etc. This technique has the added benefit of closing up the stripped hole slightly for a tighter grip on the bit.
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"New" R1100S - won't start, but that's OK because it won't stop either...
dirtrider replied to szurszewski's topic in Oilheads
Afternoon szurszewski If you can get that bike ridable (even a little) then take it for a short ride to see if speedometer functions. If it does then you can do the ABS (pump part) removal & convert it to conventional (non power) brakes. Unless you are really set on having ABS (but the possibility of servo failure at about any time) then I think you will REALLY like the braking better with the ABS servo pumps removed. If you are set on having the power assist & ABS then give module masters a call & talk to them as there is a possibility that your ABS black control box (that contains the speedometer function) will bolt on that 1150RT controller (this will only work if your bike presently has fully integrated braking)-- A quick looks shows that you do but I'm not 100% sure as some 1100S bikes were only partially integrated -- but that might have been the early 1100S bikes. (you need to carefully check this out) -
Thanx for the quick reply ! After seeing your sage advice elsewhere I was hoping for your post. I was considering your first 2 suggestions but the shroud / funnel casting around it makes #3 impossible [or at least to what I see] I suspect it will be a 'winter' task. If 1 & 2 don't work perhaps siphoning it will.
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"New" R1100S - won't start, but that's OK because it won't stop either...
szurszewski replied to szurszewski's topic in Oilheads
Thank you DR - I will find out what I can. So far the bits I’ve seen have indicated it will not work. -
"New" R1100S - won't start, but that's OK because it won't stop either...
szurszewski replied to szurszewski's topic in Oilheads
I had tried a fancy new intelligent jump pack the other day and it registered a fault when I hit the starter. Was waiting for the family to get in the car today and being bored hooked up my oldest presumably dumbest jump pack. Bike fired right up and idled nicely
