The dreaded R1200RT Fuel Pump Leak Strikes Again

[Alfred02]

So Joe

Did you have any actual problems with the bike?

[Joe L]

No. I should hope not with way less than 10K. But a $500 fuel pump plus labor is not something I look forward to. I hope you have good luck with yours.

[10ovr]

No. I should hope not with way less than 10K. But a $500 fuel pump plus labor is not something I look forward to. I hope you have good luck with yours.

Why wait till it leaks,,,Put a clamp on it and forget about it,, Just saved you $455 Bucks,,,,,,

[Alfred02]

I think that Joe does not trust the bike anymore due to all the stuff he has read.

As such, he is better off selling it and going back to a Goldwing.

No point riding a bike that you are not comfortable with.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

I think that Joe does not trust the bike anymore due to all the stuff he has read.

 

That's unfortunate, because this particular failure is almost certainly not going to happen to him. In fact, it's not going to happen to most of us. It's been happening to an uncomfortably large number of us, but "uncomfortably large" in this context still means a tiny minority.

 

As you pointed out though, this is not a vehicle of necessity; it's supposed to be FUN. If an owner is not enjoying his ownership experience because he's constantly worried about the reliability of his machine, then it's time to trade it in for something that brings more peace of mind.

[jredford]

I think that Joe does not trust the bike anymore due to all the stuff he has read.

As such, he is better off selling it and going back to a Goldwing.

No point riding a bike that you are not comfortable with.

 

I totally get this. At some point one can only hope the BMW's management will comprehend this concept....

 

 

Naaahhhh.

[Ponch]

No. I should hope not with way less than 10K. But a $500 fuel pump plus labor is not something I look forward to. I hope you have good luck with yours.

Why wait till it leaks,,,Put a clamp on it and forget about it,, Just saved you $455 Bucks,,,,,,

 

It's not hard to inspect it, something that can be done every 6k mile service. Mine is fine so far with over 20K miles. Lets hope it stays the way for awhile.

[DiggerJim]

First, let me say I love the way the bike rides and handles but it scares me to hear all of these costly problems that seem to occur with BMWs.

Understandable but potentially an overreaction. Most people who own these never have any of the problems you're reading about. It's a minority because those are the ones who pipe up. No one posts a thread (well almost no one, I do recall one I think) that says "Bike is great, no problems" and then has 5000 people piling on with "me too".

 

What these forums do bring out is when there is an issue someone raises it and can get help (which is one reason dealer prices don't bother me because I've not had my bikes into the dealer for non-warranty service ever - and I'm not a mechanic by trade). So the casual observer will look here and see a ton of problems being discussed and mistakenly think they're representative of the norm.

 

Sure it sucks if you get stuck with a problem or a problem bike but that happens with all bikes (Google "gold wing stator problems" and you'll get 57,400 hits....scary?).

 

Bottom line is that most people won't have any of the problems discussed on this board.

 

As for the prices at the dealers, you're dealing with different economies. First this is a high-end brand. The car side of BMW is more expensive than Honda cars just like the motorcycle costs more than a Honda. Then add in the economies of volume where BMW has a fractional marketshare vs the Japanese (& Harley) and you've got a premium product with a small market so you're going to pay more for service. If the qualities of the ownership experience (ride satisfaction, handling, bike lust, etc.) of a BMW don't outweigh the purchase or servicing costs then it's the right thing to go somewhere cheaper. As I noted, I service my own, use non-OEM parts sometimes (like the clutch I'm replacing now) and chalk the costs up to what it takes to ride a bike that stirs my soul.

 

[John in VA]

No. I should hope not with way less than 10K. But a $500 fuel pump plus labor is not something I look forward to. I hope you have good luck with yours.

 

I discovered that the fuel pump on my '06 had 5 deep cracks at 13k mi but was not leaking. Extended warranty paid for a new one. BMW should recall them all for inspection. (Fat chance.)

[BamaRider]

I'm late to the party on this.

 

My 05 RT began leaking fuel on the left side a few months ago, but I'm just now working on what the problem might be. I was thinking a hose or a clamp? Instead I'm looking at a fuel pump? The bike has 70k miles on it and this is the first problem presented.

 

As a semi retired long rider, not been on any long rides in a few years, but I still ride my bike several days a week. Meanwhile, the ever reliable 04 Honda ST 1300 parked next to RT, just keeps on running with 100k miles with the valve covers never been off, and the same spark plugs.

 

But I enjoy my RT, and miss riding it.

 

I've not had the tupperware off to diagnose the problem, but could it be anything OTHER than the pump?

 

 

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

I've not had the tupperware off to diagnose the problem, but could it be anything OTHER than the pump?

 

Sure. Could be a loose fitting (the QD screws into the boss on the sending unit), could be a split hose, could be a cracked QD fitting, could be a leak where the hose is clamped to the QD fitting...

 

But odds are it's a cracked boss on the sending unit.

 

It's just five tupperware screws to pull that upper left cowling off and take a look. Leaking fuel is potentially serious; you don't want to wait a few more months to sort this out.

[Ponch]

Something interesting here: http://finance.yahoo.com/news/us-requires-car-makers-offer-154344107.html

 

[10ovr]

I've not had the tupperware off to diagnose the problem, but could it be anything OTHER than the pump?

 

Sure. Could be a loose fitting (the QD screws into the boss on the sending unit), could be a split hose, could be a cracked QD fitting, could be a leak where the hose is clamped to the QD fitting...

 

But odds are it's a cracked boss on the sending unit.

 

It's just five tupperware screws to pull that upper left cowling off and take a look. Leaking fuel is potentially serious; you don't want to wait a few more months to sort this out.

It's 4 screws,,,

[DiggerJim]

It's 4 screws,,,

Well yeah, but those two under the accessory plug always confused me as to which one I didn't need to remove to pull the panel - I finally painted that one black so I don't need to pull the 5th one out. Otherwise even though I had a 50-50 shot of getting the right one I always seemed first to take out the one that didn't need to be taken out and the panel wouldn't budge

[Ponch]

What fuel leak issues? BMW doesn't have fuel leak issues. http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/9050420/Police-motorcycle-goes-up-in-flames

[Jameseo]

Now THAT is a good find. I'm going to cross post this in the hopes that someone from NHTSA will see it.

[Stomp]

What fuel leak issues? BMW doesn't have fuel leak issues. http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/9050420/Police-motorcycle-goes-up-in-flames

 

Lots of extra electronics providing the spark that may have ignited the leaking fuel, perhaps?

[Ponch]

What fuel leak issues? BMW doesn't have fuel leak issues. http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/9050420/Police-motorcycle-goes-up-in-flames

 

Lots of extra electronics providing the spark that may have ignited the leaking fuel, perhaps?

 

Schweinerrad BBQ.

[Cubby]

Just sent in my complaint to NHTSA. My fuel pump started leaking 2 weeks ago during a ride. Fuel sprayed my passengers arm, pant leg & boot, and my pant leg & boot. Thankfully there were no injuries or fire.

[racer7]

Every BMW dealership I have experience with will be happy to do a recall search for you on request. Heck, I've gotten it done by a phone call when looking at a used bike I might want to purchase. BMW time allotments to dealerships for recall work are tight but do help shops pay overheads, etc. so there's not any problem getting recalls done. (Had a couple done on a used K-GT a while ago)

 

Yesterday ran into another person who had a fuel leak on a BMW - a brick K-GT that broke male fuel fitting a couple years ago and sprayed fuel all over his leg. Guy is a service manager for a large car dealer, said he got excellent and immediate service from the guys who sold him the bike- though they were no longer BMW dealers- one of the ones forced out by BMW dealer consoidation of 5 yrs ago. (In this case BMW wanted them to invest an additional $300K, mostly for the "corporate appearance", in a market that wasn't anywhere near being able to support that- due in part to the brands historically weak US marketing for bikes)

[b_saylors]

My turn for the leak. Haven't ridden the bike for a couple of months. Last time it was on the road, no problems. Just sitting in the garage (hot TX summer) guess the heat was too much. Started the bike and in 30 seconds had a 5-6' puddle of gas.

For those of you that are DIY types and have the CD service manual. It states in 16 14 020 Replacing fuel pump " Remove fuel pump unit (5) with seal (6) from fuel tank" I tried every way I could think of to remove the seal , went back to the manual to verify the seal was supposed to come out and tried some more and finally quite as it was really deflecting the tank and didn't want' to add a new fuel tank to my repair bill. Then put a screw driver between the fuel pump assembly and the seal and it easily popped out.

[racer7]

Take a photo of the leaking part and report it at NHTSA.

 

These dangerous failures are long overdue for a proper response. Especially when compared to the relatively rare and less dangerous things my BMW bikes have been recalled for (eg brake lines because cops abusing bikes somehow managed to break a couple, a bigger suspension link on a K-GT because bearings froze on a small number creating metal fatigue in the link, etc)

 

There are so many design flaws in the RT/GS fuel system a first year engineering student would know better - really amazing how bad it is from a safety / containment / reliability aspect. Even a plastic gas can in your garage is safer and, of course, more reliable.

 

The flange fitting is inherently an improper plastic for the purpose and a significant number will eventually split the female fitting from the wedge pressure of the other threaded piece. New stuff sports a band aid metal ring first designed by guys in the US (two variants, one can be purchased at BB)but a different material entirely would be better.

[b_saylors]

nhtsa ODI number 10537789 filed.

[Beagler]

My 07 R1200S is leaking at the flange. Filed complaint. I tried to repair it with JB weld but is still leaking. Wished I had seen this thread before I attempted the repair. Would have liked to have tried the collar made by 10over. Don't think I can get all the JB weld off to make room for the collar.

[Beagler]

My 07 R1200S is leaking at the flange. Filed complaint. I tried to repair it with JB weld but is still leaking. Wished I had seen this thread before I attempted the repair. Would have liked to have tried the collar made by 10over. Don't think I can get all the JB weld off to make room for the collar.

 

Looks like I am in luck, beemer boneyard has a flange for my R1200S. Only 150 vs. 491 dollars from BMW. Even though the part looks the same as on the other R models the part number is different. It is just the flange minus the fuel pump or the electronic controller which is fine. That's what BMW should do at the very least since they don't want to make good on the older faulty part.

[Beagler]

Fixed it today. Beemer Boneyard came through. Used flange was as advertised, in excellent condition, no cracks. They even sent a new replacement hose for the fuel pump. Used a small hose clamp and JB Weld as a preventative reinforcement.

[Smidsy]

It is mentioned early in this thread to very gently tighten the clamp until it is just tight enough that it cant be moved by hand. HEED THIS ADVICE!

 

Mine may have been repaired previously because after disassembly I found a white, gritty sealant on the threads but here is my repair story. I have smelled gas on occasion so decided to order the clamp. When I went to install it I found many deep, wide cracks beginning to extend beyond the flange in some places. Installing the ring required it to be spread open substantially with a screwdriver. Lightly tightening it did not even bring the clamping flanges even close to parallel and many pics show these flanges clamped slightly past parallel. I went a little farther than simply snug (but still nowhere near to parallel) and buttoned it up not for a second thinking I may have caused a leak, but instead feeling confident I had prevented any future leak.

 

I started the bike and it POURED gasoline on the ground. I disassembled everything, found the sealant on the threads and cleaned it all up, clamped the cracks closed, reinstalled the nipple, and it leaked some. Tightened some more carefully and it still leaked. Added thread tape and it stopped but now the fitting on the hose seemed to have developed a hairline leak in a seam at the top of the groove for the clip. I used an adhesive on that and finally no leaks. Got it home from work and thought I smelled gas again. Its down now until my fittings arrive, and I know I should buy a pump, but I'm stubborn and giving this another shot.

 

Plan now is to buy the full metal fitting kit and reassembly with Loctite 577.

 

Advice to others is to snug that fitting just enough to hold itself in place and prevent further crack expansion if you believe you have no leaks (regardless of how bad yours looks initially), and to spend the extra $$ for the metal fittings even you believe yourself to be an experienced non-ham-handed mechanic.

[Ponch]

It is mentioned early in this thread to very gently tighten the clamp until it is just tight enough that it cant be moved by hand. HEED THIS ADVICE!

 

Mine may have been repaired previously because after disassembly I found a white, gritty sealant on the threads but here is my repair story. I have smelled gas on occasion so decided to order the clamp. When I went to install it I found many deep, wide cracks beginning to extend beyond the flange in some places. Installing the ring required it to be spread open substantially with a screwdriver. Lightly tightening it did not even bring the clamping flanges even close to parallel and many pics show these flanges clamped slightly past parallel. I went a little farther than simply snug (but still nowhere near to parallel) and buttoned it up not for a second thinking I may have caused a leak, but instead feeling confident I had prevented any future leak.

 

I started the bike and it POURED gasoline on the ground. I disassembled everything, found the sealant on the threads and cleaned it all up, clamped the cracks closed, reinstalled the nipple, and it leaked some. Tightened some more carefully and it still leaked. Added thread tape and it stopped but now the fitting on the hose seemed to have developed a hairline leak in a seam at the top of the groove for the clip. I used an adhesive on that and finally no leaks. Got it home from work and thought I smelled gas again. Its down now until my fittings arrive, and I know I should buy a pump, but I'm stubborn and giving this another shot.

 

Plan now is to buy the full metal fitting kit and reassembly with Loctite 577.

 

Advice to others is to snug that fitting just enough to hold itself in place and prevent further crack expansion if you believe you have no leaks (regardless of how bad yours looks initially), and to spend the extra $$ for the metal fittings even you believe yourself to be an experienced non-ham-handed mechanic.

 

Did you file a report?

[RocksforBrains]

Well crap. Went for a ride today and a few miles from my house I smelled gas. Came back pulled the left upper fairing and gas is pooled up on top of the fuel pump and dribbling down the side of the tank. I turned the key on and sure as heck one of the cracks that have been on the female fitting had expanded and was leaking gas.

 

I have filed a NHTSA complaint #10546944.

 

I have a 2005 R1200RT with 49XXX miles.

 

I had bought one of those collars from Beemer Boneyard a few months ago and when servicing my bike tried to install it. I could not get that sucker to expand enough to fit over the plastic flange. So unfortunately I didn't install it a few months ago when there wasn't yet a leak.

 

So is the preferred fix still to unscrew the fitting from the tank, put JB weld on both the female and male threads and then retighten? Do I need to install the aluminum collar on the outside of the flange? If so do I put JB weld on the outside of the flange before putting the collar on? And if so, do I install the collar before I JB weld the threads and screw the fitting together? Sorry for all of the questions. I read the entire thread (whew!) and am a little confused.

 

And has anyone else had a problem with installing the aluminum collar?

[Smidsy]

Did you file a report?

 

Filed 10546949

[Smidsy]

Well crap. Went for a ride today and a few miles from my house I smelled gas. Came back pulled the left upper fairing and gas is pooled up on top of the fuel pump and dribbling down the side of the tank. I turned the key on and sure as heck one of the cracks that have been on the female fitting had expanded and was leaking gas.

 

I have filed a NHTSA complaint #10546944.

 

I have a 2005 R1200RT with 49XXX miles.

 

I had bought one of those collars from Beemer Boneyard a few months ago and when servicing my bike tried to install it. I could not get that sucker to expand enough to fit over the plastic flange. So unfortunately I didn't install it a few months ago when there wasn't yet a leak.

 

So is the preferred fix still to unscrew the fitting from the tank, put JB weld on both the female and male threads and then retighten? Do I need to install the aluminum collar on the outside of the flange? If so do I put JB weld on the outside of the flange before putting the collar on? And if so, do I install the collar before I JB weld the threads and screw the fitting together? Sorry for all of the questions. I read the entire thread (whew!) and am a little confused.

 

And has anyone else had a problem with installing the aluminum collar?

 

Have the new fittings set on hand unless you can afford to be down for a while if you end up needing them. I would try a gasoline safe thread sealant first and leave the JB Weld as a last resort fix. The gasoila may not be the best option but I'm looking for more advice on this.

[Smidsy]

Looks like Loctite 545 may be the better option for plastic threads. Available at McMaster.

[smiller]

I would try a gasoline safe thread sealant first and leave the JB Weld as a last resort fix.

Yes, I'd agree. There are several compounds specially designed for this purpose (discussed earlier in the thread) that I would use before JB Weld (and I do love my JB Weld ) It might work (it has for some, not so well for others) but if it doesn't then there is no re-do, your only option at that point is $400 for a new pump.

[Ponch]

I would try a gasoline safe thread sealant first and leave the JB Weld as a last resort fix.

Yes, I'd agree. There are several compounds specially designed for this purpose (discussed earlier in the thread) that I would use before JB Weld (and I do love my JB Weld ) It might work (it has for some, not so well for others) but if it doesn't then there is no re-do, your only option at that point is $400 for a new pump.

 

If JB doesn't fix it, chances are it's screwed anyway. Having fixed leaky Quadrajets in the past, I found Marine Tex to work better than JB weld, but there are other products too, like this: http://www.belzona.com/en/products/1000.aspx

[ESokoloff]

Looks like Loctite 545 may be the better option for plastic threads. Available at McMaster.

 

According to this guide,

Locktite 55 (cord) is recommended for plastic threads.

 

Also the fibers might help plug up voids in cracks.

 

 

[Ponch]

Looks like Loctite 545 may be the better option for plastic threads. Available at McMaster.

 

According to this guide,

Locktite 55 (cord) is recommended for plastic threads.

 

Also the fibers might help plug up voids in cracks.

 

 

I doubt that the thread can cope with vertical cracks in the boss. It's made to seal against structurally sound threading surfaces, not something with cracks. An epoxy is the best bet as it can seal the cracks. That dental floss can't. I think we have to accept a few facts: One, the design is flawed and that is why a repair is needed. Trying to repair it in such a way that it will be reversible to be done again is futile and unrealistic. The best options are to seal it with epoxy (and using the ring from BB) and hope it holds for another few years or buy a factory replacement. Unless there is a third party solution that uses different materials for the pump cover, I don't see a lot of other choices. The only one I can think of is epoxying a timesert pipe insert into the the boss after drilling it out, which would allow one to to continue to have fittings that are replaceable, but I don't know if that would work as I have never had that flange in my hands. http://www.timesert.com/html/taperpipe.html

[smiller]

If JB doesn't fix it, chances are it's screwed anyway.

Chances are it is, and chances are it's not. But in any event JB Weld is not a good choice for sealing high-pressure liquids, although anyone is free to use it anyway.

[Ponch]

If JB doesn't fix it, chances are it's screwed anyway.

Chances are it is, and chances are it's not. But in any event JB Weld is not a good choice for sealing high-pressure liquids, although anyone is free to use it anyway.

 

There are other epoxies that are and then there's my idea with the timesert, which might get around that.

[RocksforBrains]

A quick update. I removed the female QD fitting from the top of the fuel pump and found out two things: 1) the aluminum collar slipped over the round plastic flange. In my previous post I mentioned how it would not slip over the flange when I tried it a few months ago. Apparently, removing the female QD fitting allowed the flange to contract enough for me to put the collar over it. 2) Possibly related to 1), I found that someone (I am the second owner) had put in the original female QD with teflon tape that was now deteriorated and and falling into the top of the fuel pump. In addition, I would need to clean all of the remaining teflon tape from the threads while hoping the teflon tidbits don't fall into the top of the pump.

 

After cleaning it as best I could, I got a 3/8 NPT pipe, gently screwed it into the flange, connected a rubber hose to it and turned the key to pressurize the fuel system to attempt to flush out the teflon bits from the top of the pump. I collected about 4 oz of fuel with assorted white stuff in a plastic jug. Hopefully I got it all.

 

I then removed the pipe, cleaned everything with acetone and used JB Weld on the threads of the QD after JB Welding the aluminum collar to the outside of the flange for support. I will wait 24 hours for everything to cure.

 

I did notice when flushing the teflon from the top of the fuel pump that after the fuel pump pressurized and pumped about 1/2 a cup of fuel it shut down. Repeated turning the key off and on did nothing. I hope that when I reconnect the fuel line tomorrow that the fuel pump will work!

[JayJay]

...I did notice when flushing the teflon from the top of the fuel pump that after the fuel pump pressurized and pumped about 1/2 a cup of fuel it shut down. Repeated turning the key off and on did nothing. I hope that when I reconnect the fuel line tomorrow that the fuel pump will work!

Rocks - In systems with electric fuel pumps that I've dived into there is some sort of safety device so that in the event of an accident that severs a line, the fuel pump doesn't empy the tank onto the street. In my Honda it's an accelerometer that has to be manually reset, I don't know how that's configured on the RT but I wouldn't be surprised if the computer doesn't somehow sense the rate of fuel pumped and shut down if it's far in excess of what the bike could possibly demand when running. There's probably a time delay in there as well.

 

If it doesn't work tomorrow, you could disconnect the battery and let the computer go to dead zero, then do a complete cold reboot. Don't forget to do a TPS reset if you do.

 

JayJay

[Ponch]

...I did notice when flushing the teflon from the top of the fuel pump that after the fuel pump pressurized and pumped about 1/2 a cup of fuel it shut down. Repeated turning the key off and on did nothing. I hope that when I reconnect the fuel line tomorrow that the fuel pump will work!

Rocks - In systems with electric fuel pumps that I've dived into there is some sort of safety device so that in the event of an accident that severs a line, the fuel pump doesn't empy the tank onto the street. In my Honda it's an accelerometer that has to be manually reset, I don't know how that's configured on the RT but I wouldn't be surprised if the computer doesn't somehow sense the rate of fuel pumped and shut down if it's far in excess of what the bike could possibly demand when running. There's probably a time delay in there as well.

 

If it doesn't work tomorrow, you could disconnect the battery and let the computer go to dead zero, then do a complete cold reboot. Don't forget to do a TPS reset if you do.

 

JayJay

 

It probably stopped because the engine isn't running. It just primes it enough to start and when it does, the fuel pump runs. I bet if you bypassed the FPC, it would run constantly with the key on. I could be wrong, but it's a guess.

[10ovr]

If it is leaking from a crack in the bung it can be repaired ,,I used JB weld on my pump and I have over 45K miles on the repair,,,No Leaks,,, Install clamp,,Coat inside female pump treads and male treads on the quick release fitting with JB weld,,Screw in fitting as tight as you can by hand,,Don"t wipe of Excess coming out of the top,, Tighten clamp,( just snug it up ) let dry for 24 hours ,,If you don't coat the inside treads on the pump it may leak,,Plug in you fuel line and ride,,,,Have done this repair on over 20 bike and not one has leaked,,,

[RocksforBrains]

Thanks for the replies. Ponch, I will certainly try to start the bike like normal and see if it starts. If it doesn't I will try JayJay's suggestion and disconnect the battery wait a few minutes, reconnect it, set the throttle position sensor and crank the bike and hopefully that works.

 

!0ovr thanks for your guidance. I reread the entire thread before I started the work and you and others had great advice on what to do. I did JB weld the outside of the bung, install the clamp and snugged it up. I also coated both the QD fitting threads and the inside of the bung's threads as well with JB Weld. I waited about 5 minutes to let the JB weld thicken a small amount and then screwed it in hand tight. I will reconnect the fuel line either tomorrow afternoon or Wednesday morning and see if it works! I will be sure to post an update after that.

[Ponch]

Thanks for the replies. Ponch, I will certainly try to start the bike like normal and see if it starts. If it doesn't I will try JayJay's suggestion and disconnect the battery wait a few minutes, reconnect it, set the throttle position sensor and crank the bike and hopefully that works.

 

!0ovr thanks for your guidance. I reread the entire thread before I started the work and you and others had great advice on what to do. I did JB weld the outside of the bung, install the clamp and snugged it up. I also coated both the QD fitting threads and the inside of the bung's threads as well with JB Weld. I waited about 5 minutes to let the JB weld thicken a small amount and then screwed it in hand tight. I will reconnect the fuel line either tomorrow afternoon or Wednesday morning and see if it works! I will be sure to post an update after that.

 

You may have misunderstood me. I meant what I said in the context of pumping more fuel out of the tank into a container. Once it's back together it will work like normal.

[JayJay]

...I did notice when flushing the teflon from the top of the fuel pump that after the fuel pump pressurized and pumped about 1/2 a cup of fuel it shut down. Repeated turning the key off and on did nothing. I hope that when I reconnect the fuel line tomorrow that the fuel pump will work!

Rocks - In systems with electric fuel pumps that I've dived into there is some sort of safety device so that in the event of an accident that severs a line, the fuel pump doesn't empy the tank onto the street. In my Honda it's an accelerometer that has to be manually reset, I don't know how that's configured on the RT but I wouldn't be surprised if the computer doesn't somehow sense the rate of fuel pumped and shut down if it's far in excess of what the bike could possibly demand when running. There's probably a time delay in there as well.

 

If it doesn't work tomorrow, you could disconnect the battery and let the computer go to dead zero, then do a complete cold reboot. Don't forget to do a TPS reset if you do.

 

JayJay

 

It probably stopped because the engine isn't running. It just primes it enough to start and when it does, the fuel pump runs. I bet if you bypassed the FPC, it would run constantly with the key on. I could be wrong, but it's a guess.

Ponch - That certainly seems logical, and now that you mention it I seem to recall hearing that somewhere during one of the discussions about bypassing a failed FPC.

 

JayJay

 

[RocksforBrains]

I went for a 60 mile ride today. Came home and took off the upper left fairing to check my repair job. The JB weld worked! No leaks, seeps or anything. Thanks everyone for the tips and for saving me $500 on a new fuel pump!

 

And I should add that Ponch, you were right. I hooked up the fuel line, hit the starter and it fired right up.

[10ovr]

I went for a 60 mile ride today. Came home and took off the upper left fairing to check my repair job. The JB weld worked! No leaks, seeps or anything. Thanks everyone for the tips and for saving me $500 on a new fuel pump!

 

And I should add that Ponch, you were right. I hooked up the fuel line, hit the starter and it fired right up.

Now we can move on and talk Drive Shaft U-Joints

[marc11]

Hi everyone; I just picked up a new to me 2007 RT and after reading this thread I felt it was worthwhile checking the fuel pump and while I was there, do a bit of preventative work and install the reinforcement ring. I do not smell gas, so I am guessing/hoping it is not leaking.

 

I ordered the reinforcement ring from Beemerboneyard and should have it in a day or two. Is there any special considerations I should keep in mind, like torque spec for the ring or tips for installing?

 

R/R the tank seems straight forward, ensuring not to pinch the vent lines and a bit of lube on the fuel lines so as to not to fold the o-ring. Anything else?

[DiggerJim]

Now we can move on and talk Drive Shaft U-Joints

Don't go there. Just had the u-joint go on the rear driveshat for the car (Benz E350 4Matic). Made a hole in the bell housing of the transmission. Cut the power steering line. Carved a hole in the steering rack housing. I could buy a new bike for what it would cost to fix it.

[marc11]

BIG THANKS to all who created and contributed to this thread. I decided to check my three day old new to me 2007 RT and sure enough, a couple of small cracks, no leaks. So I installed the Beemerboneyard ring and I will put this issue out of my mind...and worry about the final drive instead.