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The dreaded R1200RT Fuel Pump Leak Strikes Again


Joe_Rocket

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I saw a picture of a new unit, and the outlet flange has a steel reinforcement ring around it. I have installed an Oetiker clamp on mine but will look into the metal fitting. This fuel pump outlet is on all the large bikes...K12's, K13's, K16's, R bikes. There are plenty out there. I suspect that is why BMW is silent. I fear for my garage with the fire hazard. There is a thread over on I-BMW about this issue also.

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Just this AM 10over I installed the collet... Machining is top notch, the fit was such quality re: sizing, tolerances. My friend who helped me, is a former head mechanic for training for all of Suzuki of America and he was impressed. (second collet was for his RT)

 

Hope you have received the check already for the two I got, THANK YOU!

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Just this AM 10over I installed the collet... Machining is top notch, the fit was such quality re: sizing, tolerances. My friend who helped me, is a former head mechanic for training for all of Suzuki of America and he was impressed. (second collet was for his RT)

 

Hope you have received the check already for the two I got, THANK YOU!

Yup,,We are set buddy,,Glade you like it,,,Tim
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Just got my RT from the dealer replacing the pump under extended warranty. Turns out the new pump has a collar that's just as plastic as the original -- although hopefully a better plastic? Oh well, I'm happy to get a new one without cracks. I may pick up one of the collar clamps and install it for good measure.

 

Old Siemens pump:

 

RTCracks.jpg

 

New Continental pump:

 

RTpumpnew.jpg

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Just got my RT from the dealer replacing the pump under extended warranty. Turns out the new pump has a collar that's just as plastic as the original -- although hopefully a better plastic? Oh well, I'm happy to get a new one without cracks. I may pick up one of the collar clamps and install it for good measure.

That one doesn't have a collar at all.

Old stock?

Or re-design, so that the ones with the collars from factory might have been a temporary fix, until it could be re-designed?

They might have changed the plastic used with one that doesn't crack?

 

 

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Just got my RT from the dealer replacing the pump under extended warranty. Turns out the new pump has a collar that's just as plastic as the original -- although hopefully a better plastic? Oh well, I'm happy to get a new one without cracks. I may pick up one of the collar clamps and install it for good measure.

That one doesn't have a collar at all.

Old stock?

Or re-design, so that the ones with the collars from factory might have been a temporary fix, until it could be re-designed?

They might have changed the plastic used with one that doesn't crack?

 

 

This must be old stock. Elsewhere in this thread, you can see a picture I got from my dealer showing new part with a metal reinforcement around the area that is prone to cracking. I got mine replaced recently under the extended warranty and it has the metal reinforcement.

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Just a short Thanks to all involved (except BMW) for the heads up on this potential problem. At 25,500 miles, mine showed no cracks on inspection today. I reinforced the problem area with JB Weld today with nice daytime temps for garage work. Hopefully I won't have cracks to fix in the future due to you guys. :wave:

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This must be old stock. Elsewhere in this thread, you can see a picture I got from my dealer showing new part with a metal reinforcement around the area that is prone to cracking. I got mine replaced recently under the extended warranty and it has the metal reinforcement.

 

Likely it's old stock. Can't complain because it cost me exactly nothing -- and I'm hundreds ahead on the cost of my 3-year extended warranty with the other claims I've had. I'll get a collar and it should last a good long time.

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One data point against disturbing the fitting....

I had several cracks but no leaks. I reinforced with my modified shaft collar and then replaced the stock fitting with a brass one to address the embrittled plastic of the QR fittings. I figured 7 years of California gas in my 2005 is about the worst case scenario for the plastic fittings.

Now it weeps....

 

Then again, maybe it was on the ragged edge and would have started weeping (or spewing? on our next trip to the middle of Nevada so it's actually a good thing?

 

Regardless, JB Weld time.

I have used JB on weepy dirt bike petcocks in the past - even 2 strokes, and it never softened or failed.

 

I had an issue of the metal fittings leaking. I recommend that when you put the thread sealer on the fitting let it set up for awhile. That is what I did and it worked. I did not over tighten the fitting.

 

Ron

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Using this useful video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2UHU4ZQ2C_Q, I took the side panel of my dealer purchased, 2007 RT. The pump has about six cracks and there are no leaks yet. However, it smells like gas around the pump neighborhood. It looks like either the previous owner or the dealer took off the threaded L shaped connector and put some sort of epoxy or thread sealer before putting it back in place.

 

This compound feels soft and smells like gas, but I didn't see any "wetness" from gas around it. I cleaned the area very well yesterday and today went for a 60 mile ride. When I got home, I took the panel off again and there were no signs of leak.

 

Suggestions welcome.

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I used the Gasoila Soft Set and did not overtighten.

 

I think I'll just do the JB Weld and fuggetaboutit. I don't foresee ever needing to remove the brass fitting. If I need to replace fuel pump, I'll have to get a new fitting, but they're pretty inexpensive (at least as compared to the pump!) Everything I've repaired with JB lasted as long as I kept the item. Even worked on a polyethylene coolant overflow tank - which is amazing.

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I am making my last batch of clamps,,If you sent me a PM and your on my list you are good to go,,,,I have had 3 companies contact me that want to distribute the clamps,,The Third one was the one that I wanted to handle them and is a company we all know and love,,I only made these clamps to help out all my friends here at BMWST ,A little pay back for all the help I have gotten from all of you,,,I just don't have time for the S&H and all the running around,,,When the deal is done I well let you know where they can be found,,,Adding up all the clamps sold here times the price of a new pump,We saved over $33K in Pumps and labor,,Thanks to all Tim

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Tim,

 

On behalf of everyone on the forum, thanks for your hard efforts. This in an excellent example of the power these forums have. Good luck in your commercial venture.

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Nice job Tim. :thumbsup:

 

Thanks for the extra work. I'm glad to see that your design is getting legs. I'm wondering if a real aftermarket company and supplier (instead of a single individual) will give this issue enough visibility to hopefully force a recall by BMW. Its a longshot, but I certainly hope so.

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Tim,

 

On behalf of everyone on the forum, thanks for your hard efforts. This in an excellent example of the power these forums have. Good luck in your commercial venture.

 

+1 Thanks Tim

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I'd like to add my thanks to this thread as well. Tim lives locally so I contacted him and went over to his place to pick up my clamp. He is a great guy, funny and friendly with lots of mechanical talent. I had a great visit and learned a bunch about the RT. Guys like him make forums like this a fantastic place to hangout :clap:

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I think what Joe meant was that, in addition to the quick disconnect, there are two hoses connected to the fuel pump flange by hose clamps. The hose with the quick disconnect is the supply line to the fuel pressure regulator. One of the two other hoses is the fuel return line, and the last hose is the vent line that drains from the small hole in the flange just inside the fuel filler cap.

 

I had my tank off last night to install wiring for my new Zumo.

 

I traced the small push fit vent line (tall tube on my 2005) coming off the fuel pump, and it just loops back over the engine and vents to the atmosphere back by the swingarm pivot.

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Just made a deal with Mike at Beemer Bone yard and they well be selling the clamps from now on,,,If you are on my list your good to go and I well get them out next week,,Thanks to all,,Tim

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Just made a deal with Mike at Beemer Bone yard and they well be selling the clamps from now on,,,If you are on my list your good to go and I well get them out next week,,Thanks to all,,Tim

 

nice vender choice. Mike rules :thumbsup:

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ok so has anyone done the JB weld repair and removed it to put the collar on.

I did the JB weld repair and it is holding, but would like a cleaner repair

thanks

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ok so has anyone done the JB weld repair and removed it to put the collar on.

I did the JB weld repair and it is holding, but would like a cleaner repair

thanks

You well never get JB off the pump with out destroying it,,Better off leaving it alone,,,
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I can't think of a way to remove JB successfully from your pump. If you've already got a good fix in place quit worrying.

 

Epoxies like JB can't be debonded from plastics by any chemical or physical means without destroying the plastic. And dremel surgery to cut the metal collar and grind off bits is quite likely to break something.

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Steve Kolenda

Please forgive me if this has already been covered but the thread is long and I might have missed it. What years of manufacture is this problem related to?

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Please forgive me if this has already been covered but the thread is long and I might have missed it. What years of manufacture is this problem related to?

 

Every R1200 built

 

K bikes are effected, but I don't know the details of K bikes.

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As I posted earlier in this thread (1st Feb) I filed a report on this side of the 'pond' with VOSA (UK equivalent of NHTSA)

Received a letter today stating they have referred it to the vehicle manufacturer (not holding my breath there then)

to initiate their own investigation and tests.

For what it's worth I have the VOSA ref VSD24322, although I'm unable to find anywhere to either search for, or amend it to any subsequent reports.

 

Recieved a reply in this mornings post, basically saying BMW have had no reports of anyone suffering any loss of control, fire, or life threatening incident. VOSA go on to descriv=be what they call a 'safety defect', and since I still have a working pump in use, it isn't a saftey defect under the VOSA definition.

 

Text of their reply is attached (I hope)...............

 

Hope you get a better response on your side of the pond guys.............

 

:S

5910.txt

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mikefigielski

Hey Guys,

Mike From Beemerboneyard here. We just received our first shipment of the fuel pump flange repair clamps from Tim. We are selling them for $32.95 9SORRY, Tim did not price them originally to make money really but we are a business so......) and can ship them in the US for $3 for USPS first class mail. You can order yours from this link:

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/rk12fuelpmpclmp.html

Thanks!

Mike

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Hey Guys,

Mike From Beemerboneyard here. We just received our first shipment of the fuel pump flange repair clamps from Tim. We are selling them for $32.95 9SORRY, Tim did not price them originally to make money really but we are a business so......) and can ship them in the US for $3 for USPS first class mail. You can order yours from this link:

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/rk12fuelpmpclmp.html

Thanks!

Mike

 

Beats a $500 replacement part from the motherland :grin:

 

Glad to see you guys picking this up. :thumbsup:

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Hey Guys,

Mike From Beemerboneyard here. We just received our first shipment of the fuel pump flange repair clamps from Tim. We are selling them for $32.95 9SORRY, Tim did not price them originally to make money really but we are a business so......) and can ship them in the US for $3 for USPS first class mail. You can order yours from this link:

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/rk12fuelpmpclmp.html

Thanks!

Mike

 

Beats a $500 replacement part from the motherland :grin:

 

Glad to see you guys picking this up. :thumbsup:

 

+1

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Just did a visual on my "06" with 12k. Cracked, not leaking. I applied a strong 2 part epoxy around the boss to prevent further cracking/leaking. I wish I saw this repair ring 3 hours ago. I have to hope for the best.

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05 1200RT

One crack, not leaking.

Will order from Beemerboneyard this or next week.

Got to get some items anyway.

As a note and my personal opinion only:

 

Just because we see a crack here or there, it doesn't mean it would ever leak. Mine is now 6 years old and who knows how long the crack has been there?

Obviously, most of us, now being aware of it, will do some prevention. At the same time there are probably hundreds (if not thousands) of bikes out there with those cracks and who might never develop a fuel leak.

 

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There are a couple things that are true about plastics

 

1) A crack will spread until stress that caused it is released to "close to zero". There is no way to tell what that will be looking at any individual crack- it might or might not already be fully "stress relieved". If stress remains, only introducing an opposing force, like the collar, will stop its eventual spread.

2) Plastics deteriorate with time, UV light, oxygen and other reactive gases, etc a whole heck of a lot faster than brass or steel. Being inherently "time limited"" in utility, they're a pretty odd choice for a critical use like fuel containment on a street machine that might be in use for 20 years or more. But they are cheap to make...

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Joe Frickin' Friday
...they're a pretty odd choice for a critical use like fuel containment on a street machine that might be in use for 20 years or more

 

Unless you prestress it with a compressive collar, like BMW did in their revised design. :grin:

 

For people with and without cracked bosses, I think the smartest thing to do is to unscrew the QD fitting, apply the clamp or collar, and then screw the fitting back in with plenty of sealant. Even without cracks, these are plastic fittings, so far less torque should be used than one would use on metal fittings; let the sealant do the sealing.

 

Speaking of sealant, there was some question upthread about what works. Fuel-proof teflon tape would work fine on metal fittings (provided one is careful to avoid getting any teflon shreds into the fuel, since this is downstream of the filter), but I'd be concerned about using it on plastic fittings; my experience with teflon is that the fittings need to be snugged up pretty good in order to crush the teflon into all the nooks and crannies, and that kind of torque risks overstressing the plastic.

 

Last weekend I installed a tight-fitting solid aluminum collar around my uncracked boss with JB-Weld. When I reinstalled the QD fitting, I used Permatex #2. It's fuel-proof, and it never cures rock-hard, so you can disassemble in the future if needed. I installed it, and rode the bike the next day, no leaks. A week later, the test sample I laid down has firmed up into something slightly harder than plumber's putty; that should be good for the long haul, both for sealing and for preventing the fitting from unscrewing itself over time.

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Afternoon Eric

 

That is one of the best fuel system sealants out there. We use that stuff on most of our test vehicles & it has been a very solid performer for years.

 

The one down side is it makes the tapered threads twist together much easier so when using that stuff it is very easy to over tighten a fitting & split the lower tapered fitting (this would be especially troublesome on the hexhead plastic fitting in the fuel pump).

 

One needs to be VERY CAREFUL to not overtighen a fitting when using that stuff as what feels right could easily be way too tight & split a fitting.

 

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