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R1200RT Side Case Latch Assembly

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ADulay

All,

 

Sorry to bring up an old subject but this one just "completes" the original task!

 

Yes, a year and a half later, I finally HAD to fix the latch mechanism on the left side bag. I wasn't really looking forward to it as the lubrication process tends to leave me with oil and lithium on my hands, which then winds up on the bags and worst of all, the wife's dining room table, which is where the REAL problems come in.

 

Anyway, this time I also lubricated the sliding stainless steel bands and made sure it was done completely. It made a huge difference.

 

Now, instead of having to use the butt end of a screwdriver to get the latch pushed down to open the bag, I can do it with a single finger, not even the thumb is needed!!

 

So, as I hit 100,000 miles on this bike in March, I figured I owed it to myself to at least fix the latch so I'll be ready for this year's annual Sturgis run.

 

The saga is complete, finally!

 

AD

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PhillyFlash

Thanks for the write up and tips. How do you get the top off the case when the latch is broken? I can open it about 3 inches when I take out the screws on the bottom, but haven't been able to get the lid off, yet.

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TomSSRT

I've an 06 RT. Just had dismantle my right side case. Used some of the preceding pictures to confirm some of my findings and placement of spring on body latch.

You said you have the screws out of the hinge. My latch wouldn't pop up when the keyed/button was depressed. Can't remember exactly, you might twist the lid around a little bit. I did not have to buy any replacement parts. I did use a lot of spray grease. I ended up taking the side case completely apart 3 times until I was satisfied. Works better than new. Be sure to get a lot of grease on the slide with the prongs. I didn't have to bend or really muscle anything. Just fiddled. HTH.

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CoarsegoldKid

Howard, are you referring to the black plastic part that is pulled up? Is that freely moving? If so a freely moving latch means the assembly is broken. Undoing the hinges will not accomplish anything because the pins are still engaged in the lids metal slots. You must sacrifice the base as the latching assembly is broken. I drilled a hold large at where I thought it needed to be based on what I saw on the good side case after taking it apart. Through the hole I placed a screwdriver on the pin and moved it out of the slotted metal part of the lid. When you move the pin it moves all the pins now they are are all free. With the lid off you'll see the broken piece. Now you need to find a good condition or new base. Bring more wampum. I've heard that some folks manage to damage the lid in frustration so if you need a lid I have a perfect one for sale.

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PhillyFlash

Thanks, Joe. Tim Morgan suggested drilling a hole and using a screw driver like you said. I was hoping that there was some kind of a release we could get to easily, but it looks like drilling a hole might be the best way to go. If I need a new lid I'll be in touch. By the way, dealership told me it would be about $900 for one new side case. I'd rather find a salvaged RT with a good side case and then part out the rest than paying for a new case.

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CoarsegoldKid

I avoid dealers as much as I can. I found mine through ebay. Damn thing was perfect.

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Heck

Hey Howard? Thought yer dealer said he would warranty it...?

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LBump

Maybe this guy will ship these cases... wrong color but what the heck you could always paint them.

Good Luck.

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CoarsegoldKid

Jump on it Howard.

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PhillyFlash
Hey Howard? Thought yer dealer said he would warranty it...?

 

Turns out the warranty doesn't cover luggage. Bummer.

 

Thanks, guys.

 

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Pe41188

I have same isues with spring did ,how did you solved the issue?(I removed lower locking latch asembly and spring jump out)

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Hall Vince

Looks like I'll be pulling mine apart soon. My RH case is starting to prove troublesome to open on occasion. I've always had to place pressure on the latch and key to open from very early on but it's getting worse. I mostly use the RH one as well.

 

One other issue I have is on my RT when I fit the bags (they stay on actually) they are a little loose. If I fit the kit to tighten them It's very, very difficult to remove them as the latch wont disengage.

 

I tried fitting one to my R12r I have. What a mistake that was as it's slightly different it would appear (I suspect that's why BMW make an adjuster kit) the handle was a little hard to latch shut, well I thought it was going to be on for good.

 

What I've found is with the bag off the bike I can operate the locking handle and the plastic peg that pokes out to engage the plastic lug under the bike easily enough, but if I put a little pressure on that peg once it's fully extended. I cant't disengage the lug until I remove the pressure. I think over the 95,000 miles or so something has worn with vibration. I might just get the Dremal out and shave a bit off of the R12's locating lugs on the bike this will eleviate any pressure on the lug. I'll live with the rattling.

\v/

Edited by Hall Vince

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ADulay

Sorry guys. I just noticed that the site hosting my original graphics (Google something or other) has apparently decided to take a dump so I'll repost those back into the original messages once I figure out how to actually EDIT an earlier post!

 

AD

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ADulay

Hmm, can't edit my original message to get the graphics put back in so if anybody still needs them, email me until we can figure out this message editing crisis.

 

AD

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KTsRidin

Yes, please send info!

 

ktsridin AT gmail dot com

 

 

MUCH THANKS!

 

Kirsten

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ADulay

Photos emailed as we type.

 

AD

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ADulay
All,

 

OK, as promised, here's some photos for you guys who haven't taken your bags apart yet. Rest assured, you will, it's just a matter of time! My bike is a 2006 R1200RT so plan accordingly.

 

To start off, take the bag off the bike, find a nice place to sit down (like the dining room table) and convince the wife that this is normal. It's not like I'm cleaning guns or anything in the house. Deal with it!

 

Anyway, undo the little strap that stops the case from opening fully and hitting the ground and unscrew the four screws at the bottom of the case holding the halves together.

 

Grab your T-20 screwdriver and go to town on those screws. MARK THEM and where they go. There are seven different screws in that shell. Take the time to make sure you know where they go when it's time to button it back up.

 

The inner shell of the case will now just pop out of the side case and you'll be looking at this!

 

i-cN4gFpp-L.jpg

 

Notice the long piece of wire running across the case. This goes from the key mechanism to the actual latch on the other side (your right as you view this). The spring on the right is what brings your key back to center when you turn it.

 

Here's a closeup of the key assembly. It's plastic and has a spring in it so a little lube here is called for. I used bicycle teflon lube for the springs and plates. You can easily take it off of the wire but be aware there's a second shorter wire underneath that controls the actual bag realease so look for it and you'll be OK.

 

i-BtjTSgH-L.jpg

 

Here's the other side of the assembly that actually does the work of opening the bag latch on the outside. Yes, it calls for lube for sure although there was still a decent amount on it when I looked originally.

 

i-JhrFxL7-L.jpg

 

This would be on the opposite (bottom) side of the bag and it's the mechanism that locks the bags on to the frame. If you decide to move the bag up and around for some reason, secure this to the bag with duct tape or something or it WILL flop off and it's a bit messy to put back into place due to the lithium type grease on it. You won't need to do anything with this part anyway unless you get it to release and then wind up just putting it back in the slot track it runs in.

 

i-s8CpxmZ-L.jpg

 

This would be a shot of the 'finished product' so to speak. Notice the difference in the control rod running across the bag. I elected to put a small kink in it to basically take up some of the slack that had built up in the entire mechanism. It's probably less than 2mm in slack, but made a huge difference in the throw of the push button to make the latch pop open. You can see where I put the teflon lube on various points.

 

i-Zb3DPCW-L.jpg

 

Once I was convinced it was working correctly, it's then on to dropping the liner back in and putting the SEVEN DIFFERENT SCREWS back into the case.

 

i-ncsh8Bj-L.jpg

 

As mentioned in an earlier message, getting the first two screws back into the key assembly was probably the hardest part but using your key in the slot to slightly align the key/lock assembly makes it pretty simple. After that the rest of the screws all return quite nicely.

 

It is so nice to be able to open this bag with a simple push of the button now instead of killing my thumbs and then using the back of a tool of some sort to force it to open!

 

Hopefully some of these pictures will help somebody out there when they decide to "fix that damn latch" on the bags. I appreciate the guidance you all gave me when I came in looking for help with this.

 

AD (man I hope these pictures make it OK)

 

OK, so rather than attempt the edit of the original message, why not just quote it and make the edit there! If you've read this far, you've obviously got the problem and this solves the "missing photos" part of the equation!

 

AD

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KTsRidin

Wahoo - brilliant - thanks AD!!!

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Ponch

I found out today the latch doesn't click locked on my left bag. I can push it down and I can't open the case, but the latch springs back up. Is the mechanism hosed or is it something simple?

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Tech1

Sounds like the problem I had, a broken peg from the handle that moves the mechanism to open the cover. I was lucky enough that it happened when I opened it, so it wouldn't latch shut.

view?usp=sharing

Here are instructions on how to replace the latch flap, but it looks like you will need to find a way to open the bag.

Latch Flap Replacement

 

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Ponch

I can open the case and engage the mechanism to lock it, but the latch itself doesn't stay down and click. The latch instead sticks up. I'll take a picture tomorrow and post it.

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Ponch

Here is the condition of the latch. It doesn't lock down:

 

IMG_0425.JPG

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Tech1

Been away for a while, did you figure out the issue? Maybe it is something to do with the release from the key/button that releases the latch. If I remember, the button pulls on a link to the mechanism that would release the latch.

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Ponch

I've been ignoring it, having to deal with other things. May be I will get to it today.

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Dave Raiman

Clicking on any picture link including the one I posted appears to give me an error now:

 

The image “http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=download&Number=6100&filename=Graphic_11_7_2012%206_02_10%20PMc.jpg” cannot be displayed because it contains errors.

 

My picture indicates 350+ downloads. I wonder if those are attempts or successes.

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AnotherLee

Dave - pictures in this forum need to be posted indirectly. More info in Discussion Board Support. It's easy once you know how :grin:

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Ponch

I finally took it apart today. There was nothing bent or broken and with internal cover off, it worked. All I did was lubricate everything that looked like it needed it, reassembled and it works.

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FRR

Hi:

 

Today, a very cold day, 2ºC, my 2006 R1200RT left saddlebag would not open so I could not get my helmet out. When I pushed the release button the tab/lever that normally opens part way just snapped up to 90 degrees when I did the normal push up to open the case. LUCKILY this was at a BMW dealer. I asked for their help and they undid the hinges at the bottom of the case and were able to separate the case into the 2 basic sections and retrieve my helmet. I'm going to disassemble the case and fix the mechanism with what I have learned in the forum. Many thanks for all the tips. If this happens to you on the road, remove the case and undo the hinges held on with small torx screws. At least that way you can get to the contents of the case. The case can then be reassembled by re-attaching the hinges, then reinstall on bike and this should get you home at least.

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CoarsegoldKid

Mine did this too. The black plastic lever broke inside the case. I had to buy a almost new replacement case off the previously owned marketplace. I swapped out the key mechanism per instructions on the web. Months later I needed the painted cover when gravity got the best of me. I got my monies worth.

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Bernie

Thank you, for posting to this post and bringing it to my attention early this morning.

I have been trying to remember if there was tread to cure the stubborn release of the side cases from the bike.

My left case has been a real bear to remove it or to reinstall it on the bike.

Also huge thanks to AD for adding the pictures back into the tread, very helpful.

I was really surprised about the amount of gravel and dried up mud I found behind the inner shell, after 159,000+ miles. No wonder the slide was so sticky.

Cleaned up and re-lubricated, works like charm.

Thanks again guys.

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FRR

I diagnosed the broken flap on my left sidecase (2006 R1200RT). The flap opens the case by operating two sliding gears or plates that pull the two sets of pins that lock into the hooks of the outer painted case. (The pins are located on the liner of the inner bag - this is the real problem with this design. The pins and straps are very tight). The shaft of the flap has a plastic peg that operates a small gear that moves the plates. This peg broke off so the pins were stuck in the locked position.

 

The photos below show the peg on the flap shaft. I've reattached the peg with JB Weld - I'll try this before I buy a new flap at $US83.

 

I found disassembly and reassembling was relatively easy - just be careful and methodical - the screws are T-20 and T-25 Torx. I cleaned all the parts and relubed with lithium grease and spray.

 

 

IMG_1842.jpg

IMG_1841.jpg

IMG_1843.jpg

IMG_1838.jpg

 

 

 

 

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swilson

I hope your fix holds! I attempted the same thing with some 2part epoxy, but it failed & I was stuck paying BMW for a new part.

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HYoungblood

How is the spring on the mechanism that locks the bag to the frame attached. While trying to clean it came out :dopeslap:

 

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Rev. Chuck

Any chance you still have the pictures you could send me/

 

chuckswesey@me.com

 

Thanks if you do and no worries if you don't..

 

Chuck

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Bernie

Chuck the pictures have been reposted on page 7 of this thread.

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Rev. Chuck

Ordered my new flapper handle today… cleaned it all out, hope I can get it all back together….

 

 

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Rev. Chuck

Why, yes they are.. brilliant!

 

Some times I need more help than the average… what ever we are…

 

Thanks again... :dopeslap:

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brianbmw

Does anyone have pictures of the sliding gears interlocking with the pivoting gear during assembly. If tried re assembly mine a few times and I don't get the right engagement, either it doesn't close or open all the way. I jump the pivoting gear over a tooth and usually the problem changes but doesn't get better. A pic of a working bag would help so I could at least start from that position.

 

Brian

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Indy Dave

If a pic does not materialize, you might continue adjusting the number of teeth. On the top case, the handle engages and locks properly if you skip the first two teeth (have two teeth showing before the gears mesh).

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brianbmw

Here's a pic of the area I'm talking about.

 

1st I need to know if the triangular piece with the gear drive is in upside down or not, is the slot for the pin on the right or the left?

 

2nd What should the engagement look like between the gears, which gears mesh?

 

Thank for your help.

 

ST%20SIDE%20CASE%20GEARS_zpsers8cm3z.jpg

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Rev. Chuck

Well after much hand wringing and a night in the hot tub because I could not get it not to fail… then a days ride with out it… I have finally resembled and have the latch working and reinstalled on the bike…

 

What I learned is to take much more time and pictures in the disassembly process, so I would have something to go back to.

 

That said, I would attempt again with out hesitation.

 

Thanks for all the support, on here or anywhere…

 

Rev. Chuck

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Jeff_488

Has anyone got an idea on how to get the lid unlatched when pushing the key button won't cause the latch to pop up?

I took the hinges off, but that doesn't seem to loosen the lid much.

TIA

Jeff

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Jeff_488

Never mind. I figured it out.

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Don_Eilenberger

Jeff - how about letting us in on the secret? You never know when someone else will find this thread when searching for how to get their lid unlatched when the button doesn't work..

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Susie

AD I can't see the photos. Hubby and I are having issues with the panniers staying on the machine while riding and the mechanic from bmw TOLD US ITS BECAUSE we are stuffing them too fool. I see when I have it all apart that the two plastic pieces right beside the lock are sliding down and preventing the mechanism to go back to its original place.

Susie

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Thunderhoof

Hi,

I have the same problem - handle pops to 90 deg. but I cannot figure out how to get into the case. Removing the hinges ('06 RT)does not permit enough opening to remove anything much less allow disassembly.

Also, once open, how does flap remove from case? There does not appear to be enough play to disengage the flap shaft from the case. Thanks.

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MacRunch

Similar problem with an '06 R1200RT. The right side case will not open. I depress the button and the front handle pops up, but it will not bend backward to release the latching mechanism. I fear something is broken inside. But when removing the bottom hinge screws I'm still unable to open the case from either bottom or top.

 

I'm open to helpful suggestions to open the case.

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Lismorebike

Thank you for the pictures, they gave me some more direction with my issue.

 

When lifting the handle to open the pannier, did the unlocking lugs on both ends of the mechanism move the same distance?

 

I have one moving well, and unlocking well, while the other seems to move far less and will not allow the box to unlock. 8

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Thunderhoof

After I tried getting into the case by removing the opening tab I concluded that I needed to drill a hole to access one of the locking pins directly. Using the other side case as a guide I found the location of the pin forward of the handle. I drilled a 3/16 hole at that point and then used a screwdriver blade to move the pin. The case unlocked easily. I patched the hole with some black two part epoxy. After repair, and plenty of lithium grease all is good.

If the lock/ pushbutton is hard to operate pressing down on the tab at the same time time as the button helps a lot.

The little "p" shaped spring that pops loose when the case / frame locking mechanism is distributed fits around a post for one of the screws in that area and the arm hooks on a vertical tab. It keeps the moving tab in the open position when the case is off the bike.

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Rob Browning

Thunderhoof, both of my panniers are doing the same thing as yours, so I can't get into either one to determine where of drill to access the pin to unlock the case. Could you post a pic to give me an idea of where to drill?

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