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R1200RT Side Case Latch Assembly


1gabowles

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I had posted about my issues with a broken latch handle earlier in this thread but I noticed that the links I have for repair info and a picture of the broken latch peg are not working, I moved the files in some drive cleanup which broke the links.

I was lucky that mine broke with it already open so it would not latch shut. Wondering that it may be possible to somehow reach in and operate the latch mechanism with the handle up, but not sure.

Here are the links:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7tIv8F643LIclUtZld3ZlJrX2M

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7tIv8F643LIcl9OczdVaG9qS2s

 

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Rob Browning

Thanks Tech1, I can see what I need to move to unlock the case at least. Looks like I'm gonna need to drill.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So..this is a great thread with some awesome pictures for the RT models. I HAVE AN 04 R1200CL with a different style handel. My handel moves fine but does not have the throw it use to. Makes it difficult to open. I think something came loose. My liner appears to be rivit on so I can't see the mechanism. I have the bag removed (it's the right side w/radio) and before I start drilling rivets does anyone have experience with this type bag?

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  • 1 year later...

Not quite the same topic, but this post has pictures that were very helpful in dis-assembling my side cases.

 

My latches were very stiff, to the point that I feared breaking the latch when opening them. Using that post as a guide, I took the inner case out and found that the area containing the mechanism is not sealed from water or dirt. I found lots of dust and sand stuck to the grease lubricating the mechanism. After cleaning and re-lubing the first pannier, I was having a little trouble getting this Rube Goldberg design to work. Solution: cautiously take apart the second pannier to see how everything fit. Worked great, and now my latches work smoothly with very little effort from a single finger.

 

If you have reached the point where you need to drill to open the case, take apart the other side. Take measurements to find the exact point to drill the stuck case.

Edited by lkraus
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  • 7 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/21/2011 at 8:04 PM, ADulay said:

All,

 

OK, as promised, here's some photos for you guys who haven't taken your bags apart yet. Rest assured, you will, it's just a matter of time! My bike is a 2006 R1200RT so plan accordingly.

 

To start off, take the bag off the bike, find a nice place to sit down (like the dining room table) and convince the wife that this is normal. It's not like I'm cleaning guns or anything in the house. Deal with it!

 

Anyway, undo the little strap that stops the case from opening fully and hitting the ground and unscrew the four screws at the bottom of the case holding the halves together.

 

Grab your T-20 screwdriver and go to town on those screws. MARK THEM and where they go. There are seven different screws in that shell. Take the time to make sure you know where they go when it's time to button it back up.

 

The inner shell of the case will now just pop out of the side case and you'll be looking at this!

 

Bag-1.JPG

 

Notice the long piece of wire running across the case. This goes from the key mechanism to the actual latch on the other side (your right as you view this). The spring on the right is what brings your key back to center when you turn it.

 

Here's a closeup of the key assembly. It's plastic and has a spring in it so a little lube here is called for. I used bicycle teflon lube for the springs and plates. You can easily take it off of the wire but be aware there's a second shorter wire underneath that controls the actual bag realease so look for it and you'll be OK.

 

Bag-2.JPG

 

Here's the other side of the assembly that actually does the work of opening the bag latch on the outside. Yes, it calls for lube for sure although there was still a decent amount on it when I looked originally.

 

Bag-3.JPG

 

This would be on the opposite (bottom) side of the bag and it's the mechanism that locks the bags on to the frame. If you decide to move the bag up and around for some reason, secure this to the bag with duct tape or something or it WILL flop off and it's a bit messy to put back into place due to the lithium type grease on it. You won't need to do anything with this part anyway unless you get it to release and then wind up just putting it back in the slot track it runs in.

 

Bag-4.JPG

 

This would be a shot of the 'finished product' so to speak. Notice the difference in the control rod running across the bag. I elected to put a small kink in it to basically take up some of the slack that had built up in the entire mechanism. It's probably less than 2mm in slack, but made a huge difference in the throw of the push button to make the latch pop open. You can see where I put the teflon lube on various points.

 

Bag-5.JPG

 

Once I was convinced it was working correctly, it's then on to dropping the liner back in and putting the SEVEN DIFFERENT SCREWS back into the case.

 

Bag-6.JPG

 

As mentioned in an earlier message, getting the first two screws back into the key assembly was probably the hardest part but using your key in the slot to slightly align the key/lock assembly makes it pretty simple. After that the rest of the screws all return quite nicely.

 

It is so nice to be able to open this bag with a simple push of the button now instead of killing my thumbs and then using the back of a tool of some sort to force it to open!

 

Hopefully some of these pictures will help somebody out there when they decide to "fix that damn latch" on the bags. I appreciate the guidance you all gave me when I came in looking for help with this.

 

AD (man I hope these pictures make it OK)

Sorry but I see no pictures

 

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Do these help?

 

https://www.bmwsporttouring.com/topic/22471-bungee-buddy-install-on-r1200rt-cases/?tab=comments#comment-234196

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3 minutes ago, Danie said:

Sorry but I see no pictures

 

 

Morning Danie

 

You are looking at a post  that was posted WAY BACK on  September 21, 2011. Some picture servers have changed since then, some pictures have been deleted, some never were permanent. 

 

You will probably find a lot of old posted pictures are gone due to  changes in remote picture hosting servers.

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Of course I found this topic AFTER locking my helmet in the right bag and then not being able ti open it without great difficulty. I was able to disassemble, lubricate, and reassemble, resulting in perfect function. But WOW, what a Rube Goldberg assembly.

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  • 1 month later...
Cliff Summers

I found this thread due to a broken paddle lever on the right pannier (seems like a theme here :grin:)  I got the lever out with some help from the docs from Tech1 (thanks mate :beer:).  And after recovering the broken pieces I can repro MarkC's picture almost exactly.  While I work on that though,  I lost one of the captive nuts in the outer shell (note: remove the hinge from the inner case not the outer).  It's inside there, I just can't get it out and replace it. 

 

All I can find says the skin is either glued, epoxied, or double sided taped to the inner liner.  I don't want to break the skin to get to the nut as I'm already $100 into parts  (unless my "repair" of the lever works)

 

Any advice is appreciated.

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  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...
mrussell16

I hate to hijack someone elses post (especially a dead one). How ever |I can not find anywhere that explains where the little spring goes that is at the bottom of the latch/mounting system (lower center of picture). If anyone can explain where this goes, it would be much appreciated.

PXL_20210529_194523400.jpg

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This is an old picture, apparently taken after things went "sproing",  as some parts are obviously out of place, and I'm not sure if it is right or left side, but I think the spring is still in the original position. If I recall correctly, the loose metal dowel fits into the post the spring is around, and serves as a pivot for the plate.

1446447038_PannierMechanism_10.thumb.jpg.9fe848e5df7cb77e3113a25d8eecf2e0.jpg

 

If this does not clear things up, you might want to (carefully) open your other pannier to see how it all fits together.

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  • 2 years later...
On 11/17/2015 at 9:32 PM, FRR said:

Hi:

 

. . .  . . .  . . . . . . . . . . .  . When I pushed the release button the tab/lever that normally opens part way just snapped up to 90 degrees when I did the normal push up to open the case. . . . . .  .

 

 

I just now expereinced same thing.

Have not noticed the mechanism hard to operate on opening or on closing (other than if something keeping the case lid from closing well).

But today, went to open the side bag, pushed the button and the lever popped up all the way without unlatching. So cant open the side bag (to get raingear, and as starting to rain).

 

Reviewing the various postings here, some of the posting seem to be about other situations.

 

But the postings about this situation of the lever seeming to be broke and then cant open the bag :

- some say take the hinge off the bottom then can get access to all.

- some say take the hinge off the bottom but can only open a small amount.

- I am not understanding: something about driling a hole thru the case to operate something........

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From reviewing this post, relative to broke lever (called Flap on microfische) internal mechanism such that cant open side bag, I understand:

 

- need to dissasemble other bag, to inspect the mechanisms workings so can determine where to drill a hole in broken sidebag so can reach inside with something and do something to something to get it open. THEn can dissasemble the mechanism to replace the lever (called Flap)

 

- the many screws to seperate the inner case from the outer case are multiple different sizes.

So this is what I did to keep them in proper arrangment so they go back properly

IMG_7275_RT_SB_Screws.JPG

 

 

 

- OKAY, now that I have the case apart, what is it ? I am suppose to notice relative to what mechanism ? that I need to operate .....

IMG_7277_RT_SB_LAtch1.JPG

 

IMG_7278_RT_SB_Latch2.thumb.JPG.2a0eb2d5f2b54825e594f98edc08460b.JPG

 

 

or do I need to dissassemble further? which screws??

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 10/8/2023 at 7:02 PM, Redman said:

 

I just now expereinced same thing.

Have not noticed the mechanism hard to operate on opening or on closing (other than if something keeping the case lid from closing well).

But today, went to open the side bag, pushed the button and the lever popped up all the way without unlatching. So cant open the side bag (to get raingear, and as starting to rain).

 

Reviewing the various postings here, some of the posting seem to be about other situations.

 

But the postings about this situation of the lever seeming to be broke and then cant open the bag :

- some say take the hinge off the bottom then can get access to all.

- some say take the hinge off the bottom but can only open a small amount.

- I am not understanding: something about driling a hole thru the case to operate something........

Morning  Redman

 

Was your 2009 1200RT built between  Jan 01, 2009 to June 26, 2009?

 

If so call your dealer as there was service bulletin on latch failure.  Tell the dealer to look up Bulletin:  4600209-043

 

Cases produced after June 29, 2009 are fitted with a lock of improved design so those are not included. 

 

Supposedly_ "The repair described in this bulletin is covered under warranty regardless of time or mileage" but I'm not sure if that still holds true after all these years. Worth a try anyhow as it does say "covered under warranty regardless of time or mileage". 

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2 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning  Redman

 

Was your 2009 1200RT built between  Jan 01, 2009 to June 26, 2009?

 

............

Wow, Thanks DirtRider!

Only those 6 months, not before? (I can understand NOT after.....)

 

THe VIN (zt14177) lookup on BMW site shows a build date of "2008-09-17"

(but then it also say Left Hand Drive Steering, har har, yah, probably same data base as the cars)

 

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Note:

Microfische parts look up (say, Bobs BMW) calles the lever a "flap" and the part number comes with more than just the flap. ($102 list).

I think the listing for the Right Flap includes a photo of the flap and the other part.

AND.... THe listing for the other side part does not have a photo, but has a PDF for how to dissasemble the mechanism and replace the flap.

(But has no information about how to get the case open if the flap is broken...........)

 

I will contact dealer relative to that service bulliten ....

 

but, thinking of if maybe needing to pursue other options.....

ANybody have any info on how/where to drill a hole ? and what to do to get case open if flap (lever) is broken ...... ?

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9 minutes ago, Redman said:

Wow, Thanks DirtRider!

Only those 6 months, not before? (I can understand NOT after.....)

 

THe VIN (zt14177) lookup on BMW site shows a build date of "2008-09-17"

(but then it also say Left Hand Drive Steering, har har, yah, probably same data base as the cars)

 

Afternoon Redman

 

Check the production date marked on the case itself. Date format is day/month/year. I have heard of earlier 1200RT's having the case lock updated based on the actual case date. Sometimes the cases were pulled from in-stock bikes for various reasons then replaced with later cases as they came in.   I think the case date is located near the top front of the main case (not the cover).


All I have on this is the original BMW service bulletin & knowing 2 riders that had their cases warrantied.  

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these are from a 05 R1200 S - so you'll need to see if the latches work for you. If they do, PM me and I'll get you in touch with the guy. You can have these for shipping from Indy.

 

IMG_6160.thumb.jpeg.9ba7198de4794490446b3476b3a54efb.jpg.a1237dfe1277eeac3251c2fa7446e1e0.jpg

 

IMG_6162.jpeg.7db3bc51719fa8b45a0c7c92261d1f60.thumb.jpg.760fbdfaa5da6e180067d1840206c1e7.jpg

 

IMG_6163.jpeg.312c155ebc57931f2d90d33fcaa6ec17.thumb.jpg.b9ddaabae4dc984f1433d685de97be12.jpg

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Redman

 

Check the production date marked on the case itself. Date format is day/month/year. .


THis is Inner case (that lifted out of inner case, what would see before dissasembling).

IMG_7282_RT_SB_Date.JPG

Dont see anything like a date (looking for 2008 or 2009 or 08 or 09) or ddmmyy or ddmmyyyy like was suggested anywhere, only thing that looked liked dates were the dial set things like I know they use in molds.

1-12 set on 12 so December and the day set on something like 17, I suppose the year would be assumed at that time (but, ah, not now). Of the three major parts (inner, outer and lid) have somewhat similar dates or August.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Indy Dave said:

these are from a 05 R1200 S - so you'll need to see if the latches work for you. If they do, PM me and I'll get you in touch with the guy. You can have these for shipping from Indy.

 

IMG_6162.jpeg.7db3bc51719fa8b45a0c7c92261d1f60.thumb.jpg.760fbdfaa5da6e180067d1840206c1e7.jpg

.

.

.

THanks Dave, Yah, the arrangment of the button/lock and handle and flap so seem like on mine.

I didnt find any side bag info on 05 r1200R microfische, but did on r1200rs, and part numbers of flap and some other parts match those of my 09 r1200rt. 

So.....

Will PM shortly

.

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17 hours ago, Redman said:


THis is Inner case (that lifted out of inner case, what would see before dissasembling).

Dont see anything like a date (looking for 2008 or 2009 or 08 or 09) or ddmmyy or ddmmyyyy like was suggested anywhere, only thing that looked liked dates were the dial set things like I know they use in molds.

1-12 set on 12 so December and the day set on something like 17, I suppose the year would be assumed at that time (but, ah, not now). Of the three major parts (inner, outer and lid) have somewhat similar dates or August.

 

 

Morning Redman

 

First thing I would suggest is to call your local dealer & see IF they will still honor that service bulletin. If they will then have them help you decipher the case build date code.    

 

Now on the hole drilling, I haven't ever had to do that myself & have only had to deal with one case cover stuck closed on the 1200RT (years ago). I don't know if they will all do this but on the one I delt with I just removed one side of the lower cover hinge then beat on the cover with the palm of my hand & the cover came loose at the latches.  

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7 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning Redman

 

First thing I would suggest is to call your local dealer & see IF they will still honor that service bulletin. If they will then have them help you decipher the case build date code.    

 

Now on the hole drilling, I haven't ever had to do that myself & have only had to deal with one case cover stuck closed on the 1200RT (years ago). I don't know if they will all do this but on the one I delt with I just removed one side of the lower cover hinge then beat on the cover with the palm of my hand & the cover came loose at the latches.  

Yep, will discuss with dealer (and mention the service bulletin, thanks).

 

will try the unscrewing the hinges, and see can get lid to come loose if latches. If I understood Other folks seemed to say that removing from hinges is usefull only for removing small items, not getting lid completly off. But I’ll give it a try.

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1 minute ago, Redman said:

Yep, will discuss with dealer (and mention the service bulletin, thanks).

 

will try the unscrewing the hinges, and see can get lid to come loose if latches. If I understood Other folks seemed to say that removing from hinges is usefull only for removing small items, not getting lid completly off. But I’ll give it a try.

Afternoon Redman

 

I wish I could tell you what I actually did to get the cover to come off, I was pulling the bottom in & out, shaking it sideways, moving the bottom around all while pounding on the cover is all directions with the palm of my hand. All of a sudden it just popped off. 

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50 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

I wish I could tell you what I actually did to get the cover to come off, I was pulling the bottom in & out, shaking it sideways, moving the bottom around all while pounding on the cover is all directions with the palm of my hand. All of a sudden it just popped off. 

I think I'd add loud cursing to that detailed technical procedure.   If you scare it enough, it will make every effort to flee.

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On 10/15/2023 at 5:27 PM, lkraus said:

I think I'd add loud cursing to that detailed technical procedure.   If you scare it enough, it will make every effort to flee.

Does that need to be German cursing ? ? 

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On 10/14/2023 at 3:45 PM, Redman said:


THis is Inner case (that lifted out of inner case, what would see before dissasembling).

IMG_7282_RT_SB_Date.JPG

Dont see anything like a date (looking for 2008 or 2009 or 08 or 09) or ddmmyy or ddmmyyyy like was suggested anywhere, only thing that looked liked dates were the dial set things like I know they use in molds.

1-12 set on 12 so December and the day set on something like 17, I suppose the year would be assumed at that time (but, ah, not now). Of the three major parts (inner, outer and lid) have somewhat similar dates or August.

 

 

Are you sure the second dial doesn't indicate the year (2017)?

 

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11 hours ago, Redman said:

Does that need to be German cursing ? ? 

Can't hurt, much of my extended cursing bouts include some German.  Other than Motorrad and Bier, about all the German I know. Picked it up from Dad, who learned it from his immigrant grandfather.  I think Dad used German with the thought that we kids would not know they were bad words.  We learned!

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  • 2 months later...

IMG_3859.thumb.jpeg.d06c800d07a25a92e92038b980c3fc98.jpegI heard something rattling around inside the RH case when I was removing it. I shook the case to and fro and behold and a small pin became visible in one of the drain holes. From the pictures in this thread it looked like one of the two clevis pins that fix the release handle in place.(the U shaped one on top that locks/unlocks the case to the bike) I extracted the pin from the case and went to work on taking the case apart. After removing the liner and looking at the mechanism sure enough the loose pin had lost it's retaining e-clip and fallen out. I replaced it and with a new retainer all of that is good again.

 

My problem is that when taking the case apart I missed the mention NOT to remove the retractor reel. Of course when I removed it the spring inside wound itself up in a ball and after two hours fooling around with it I have not been able to figure out how to wind and insert the spring in the correct orientation to retract the lid retaining strap. I looked at a YouTube video on how to repair a key ring or badge reel and have a general idea how the clock spring tensions the reel but I cannot reassemble it and have it retract itself.

 

Any ideas or instructions? I'm all ears at this point.

IMG_3858.jpeg

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dirtrider
14 minutes ago, dduelin said:

I heard something rattling around inside the RH case when I was removing it. I shook the case to and fro and behold and a small pin became visible in one of the drain holes. From the pictures in this thread it looked like one of the two clevis pins that fix the release handle in place.(the U shaped one on top that locks/unlocks the case to the bike) I extracted the pin from the case and went to work on taking the case apart. After removing the liner and looking at the mechanism sure enough the loose pin had lost it's retaining e-clip and fallen out. I replaced it and with a new retainer all of that is good again.

 

My problem is that when taking the case apart I missed the mention NOT to remove the retractor reel. Of course when I removed it the spring inside wound itself up in a ball and after two hours fooling around with it I have not been able to figure out how to wind and insert the spring in the correct orientation to retract the lid retaining strap. I looked at a YouTube video on how to repair a key ring or badge reel and have a general idea how the clock spring tensions the reel but I cannot reassemble it and have it retract itself.

 

Any ideas or instructions? I'm all ears at this point.

Afternoon Dave

 

It isn't easy but if you fool with it for a while you can get it wound correctly.

 

In any case, make a horseshoe shapes (U shaped) install tool so once wound you can install it loosely then slide this tool out.

 

BMW ships new retractor assemblies with the tool in place. 

 

eKnX8iE.jpg

 

 

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1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Dave

 

It isn't easy but if you fool with it for a while you can get it wound correctly.

 

In any case, make a horseshoe shapes (U shaped) install tool so once wound you can install it loosely then slide this tool out.

 

BMW ships new retractor assemblies with the tool in place. 

 

eKnX8iE.jpg

 

 

Thanks DR. Darn if the tool isn’t hiding the clue I need!
 

I did make a similar tool from a piece of thin cardboard from a paper plate that held the spring and strap in place when installing it but what I haven’t figured out yet is which way to insert the beginning part of the spring in the reel so it tensions when the strap is pulled out. I ended up installing it without the retraction working but I will keep noodling it.

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bruce2000ltc

 While holding the spring to keep it in place,  pull some of the strap out, then wind the strap you pulled out back around the spring.  Each time you do this you're winding the spring tighter.  It may take a few times but eventually the spring will be tight enough to retract the strap all the way.

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  • 1 month later...

About my broke side case lever and the other side case difficult to operate....

I thanks you guys for your suggestion of new getting a used set from you guys.
(I got lost in all the messages, then other stuff happened - and then I had bike to dealer for 24k service anyway, so just bit-the-bullet and told them to "see what you can do" .... and they did. EX-PEN-SIVE).

 

As for the other bag that didnt operate smmootly, apparently when I dissasembled some, and used dry lube... apparently if finally worked its way into where it needed to be. I think the problem was where the metal bands have to slide against the plastic. Operates well now.

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Note: What I found for 09 RT anyway, FOr the document that shows how to dissasemble side case, and replace the "Flap" (what we might call lever):

 

- goto BMW MC fisch (Max BMW has a good link, not all dealers do)
- look for 09 1200RT,

- look for the section 46 for Fairings

- Sheet 46-1365 Case Lower.  look in upper left, item  number 04.  THen look in the part number list. Presently listed for $104. THe part number for the Flap Left has photos of the flap. THe part number for the Flap Right doesnt have photos but has the PDF document.

- Sheet 46-1146 Case Lower has more parts.

 

Here is link to fisch page (maybe)

MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - R1200RT 05-09 (K26)

 

.

 

 

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