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1gabowles

R1200RT Side Case Latch Assembly

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1gabowles

Anyone out there ever replaced the latch assembly or know where to find the assembly proceed / drawing. Had to take my apart to find out the flapper mechanism broke internally. Ideas ??

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ADulay

Hmm, this looks like the only thread I can track down about the latches on the side cases.

 

After 5 years and 70,000 miles (and three Sturgis Rallys) the high side case (right side) just will not open anymore without destroying one or both of my thumbs. It'll come off the bike easily enough but getting the case to open is a whole other crisis for sure.

 

I do remember reading a long time ago how a member here took apart the side case innards and either reinforced or repaired the internal plastic pieces to allow the side case to actually open correctly.

 

As the "low side" case, on the left, doesn't get used nearly as much, it isn't showing the same problems, yet.

 

Any help in pointing to that article or a link will be greatly appreciated.

 

AD

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johnlt

Had a similar problem and sprayed a bunch of silicon spray in every orifice I could find. Helped a lot. Also, it really helps to press and hold the lever down while your pressing the button.

Edited by johnlt

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Lmar

Had a similar problem and had the mechanism replace under warranty.

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s3steve
Had a similar problem and sprayed a bunch of silicon spray in every orifice I could find. Helped a lot. Also, it really helps to press and hold the lever down while your pressing the button.

 

The same here but only on my top case. I have to apply some pressure on the lever and push the button and it will unlatch.

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WestyLancs

Once the case is off and open, it's a simple matter to undo all the screws holding the inner and outer skins together. Once apart, most, if not all (from memory)of the mechanicals are left in the 'outer skin' which allows access to clean, grease and / or repair as required. I've taken mine apart a couple of times over the 5 years I've owned the bike. Once to replace an 'e' clip holding one of the handle hinge pins, and once to realign the lock after an insurance repair by a non BMW dealer. Just take care not to dislodge anything in the process.

The best diagram I found was the exploded parts diagram on A&S cycles microfiche site.

Ian

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Fubar

So I'm not the only one having this problem, eh? Almost given up using the right side case for this reason. Sounds like another trip to the dealer is coming (mirror grommets replaced last week).

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ScottT

I am about to do mine for the second time in the 6+ years I've had the bike. The latching mechanism really gets tough to operate when the temp drops. Eventually it will get stiff enough to where you cannot get the bag open or you will break the latch. It is easy. Remove the lid and then undo all of the screws holding the base together. Lubricate and re-assemble.

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ADulay

Thanks to everyone who responded to this.

 

I was under the assumption that taking those bags apart was a big nightmare for some reason. It's good to hear that it's strictly a mechanical chore and not anything to get concerned about with taking it apart.

 

I'll plan on taking the "innards" out tomorrow!

 

Once again, thanks to all.

 

AD

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DiggerJim
I was under the assumption that taking those bags apart was a big nightmare for some reason. It's good to hear that it's strictly a mechanical chore and not anything to get concerned about with taking it apart.
It's not the taking apart that's the challenge - it's the putting back together without having too few or too many parts :dopeslap:

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renopat

I had to replace my broken lower latch. When separating the inner and outer cases there are at least 4 different length screws, make sure you know where they all go. Do not remove the re tractor reel screws. Be very careful when lifting the inner case from the outer case. There is a lot of mechanical stuff in there that can easily get out of position and make it hard to reassemble. I also installed bungee buddies while the cases were separated.

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ADulay

Would you guys who have taken the side cases apart recommend doing it with the case standing up or over on its back?

 

Obviously when I get off my butt and do this, I'll take lots of pictures to make sure I have some clue as to where the correct screws and parts go.

 

AD

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Hank in WV

Much easier to do with the lid removed from the case. I also put bungee buddies on.

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WestyLancs
Would you guys who have taken the side cases apart recommend doing it with the case standing up or over on its back?

 

Obviously when I get off my butt and do this, I'll take lots of pictures to make sure I have some clue as to where the correct screws and parts go.

 

AD

 

Hi AD,

Case off bike (goes without saying) undo hinges and take off the case lid, then lie the case its back to undo

the screws and lift the inner out. That worked easiest for me.

Ian

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ADulay

Woo-Hoo! My side case is now working like BUTTAH! (With apologies to Barbara Streisand).

 

Taking in all the good information you guys came up with, I jumped in, took pictures and after a slight hassle with the line up of the actual keyed assembly, it's all back together, lubed, "shortened" and it's better than new.

 

I'll post up a full report tomorrow with pictures, of course.

 

If anyone is thinking about fixing their side case latches, I can chime in that it is an easy job for any average BMW guy for sure.

 

Time for sleep and I'll get that report up tomorrow.

 

AD

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ScottT

a slight hassle with the line up of the actual keyed assembly

 

I figured an easy solution for that. I inserted the key and used it to rotate the lock to line up. The very first time I did the job it took me a few minutes to figure it out. I got both my 6 and half year old, 102k bags done this last weekend. Just like new again :thumbsup: Glad you got yours done AD!

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ADulay
I figured an easy solution for that. I inserted the key and used it to rotate the lock to line up. The very first time I did the job it took me a few minutes to figure it out. I got both my 6 and half year old, 102k bags done this last weekend. Just like new again :thumbsup: Glad you got yours done AD!

 

Yep, that's exactly what I used too! Once that got taken care of, it all fell into place.

 

AD

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ADulay

All,

 

OK, as promised, here's some photos for you guys who haven't taken your bags apart yet. Rest assured, you will, it's just a matter of time! My bike is a 2006 R1200RT so plan accordingly.

 

To start off, take the bag off the bike, find a nice place to sit down (like the dining room table) and convince the wife that this is normal. It's not like I'm cleaning guns or anything in the house. Deal with it!

 

Anyway, undo the little strap that stops the case from opening fully and hitting the ground and unscrew the four screws at the bottom of the case holding the halves together.

 

Grab your T-20 screwdriver and go to town on those screws. MARK THEM and where they go. There are seven different screws in that shell. Take the time to make sure you know where they go when it's time to button it back up.

 

The inner shell of the case will now just pop out of the side case and you'll be looking at this!

 

Bag-1.JPG

 

Notice the long piece of wire running across the case. This goes from the key mechanism to the actual latch on the other side (your right as you view this). The spring on the right is what brings your key back to center when you turn it.

 

Here's a closeup of the key assembly. It's plastic and has a spring in it so a little lube here is called for. I used bicycle teflon lube for the springs and plates. You can easily take it off of the wire but be aware there's a second shorter wire underneath that controls the actual bag realease so look for it and you'll be OK.

 

Bag-2.JPG

 

Here's the other side of the assembly that actually does the work of opening the bag latch on the outside. Yes, it calls for lube for sure although there was still a decent amount on it when I looked originally.

 

Bag-3.JPG

 

This would be on the opposite (bottom) side of the bag and it's the mechanism that locks the bags on to the frame. If you decide to move the bag up and around for some reason, secure this to the bag with duct tape or something or it WILL flop off and it's a bit messy to put back into place due to the lithium type grease on it. You won't need to do anything with this part anyway unless you get it to release and then wind up just putting it back in the slot track it runs in.

 

Bag-4.JPG

 

This would be a shot of the 'finished product' so to speak. Notice the difference in the control rod running across the bag. I elected to put a small kink in it to basically take up some of the slack that had built up in the entire mechanism. It's probably less than 2mm in slack, but made a huge difference in the throw of the push button to make the latch pop open. You can see where I put the teflon lube on various points.

 

Bag-5.JPG

 

Once I was convinced it was working correctly, it's then on to dropping the liner back in and putting the SEVEN DIFFERENT SCREWS back into the case.

 

Bag-6.JPG

 

As mentioned in an earlier message, getting the first two screws back into the key assembly was probably the hardest part but using your key in the slot to slightly align the key/lock assembly makes it pretty simple. After that the rest of the screws all return quite nicely.

 

It is so nice to be able to open this bag with a simple push of the button now instead of killing my thumbs and then using the back of a tool of some sort to force it to open!

 

Hopefully some of these pictures will help somebody out there when they decide to "fix that damn latch" on the bags. I appreciate the guidance you all gave me when I came in looking for help with this.

 

AD (man I hope these pictures make it OK)

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Fubar

Took mine to the dealer and had it repaired in a couple of hours under warranty/recall notice.Both work better than ever.

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pokorskij

Can you give specifics on the recall notice? Years covered, recall notice number, etc.?

 

Thanks in advance.

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loboheritage

Gottdammamerung! Wish I had never seen those pictures of the sidecase mechanism. Only the Germans could take something as simple as a pannier and make it that complicated....

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Fubar
Can you give specifics on the recall notice? Years covered, recall notice number, etc.?

I don't have the number but I recall that it covered bags made prior from (?) to July(?) 2009. I will endeavor to get that info.

Fortunately, mine was still within the 3 year warranty period when I had it done in late Sept.

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Fubar

Got the info from the great service dept. at Hap's. An abbreviated version:

 

Bulletin: # 46 002 09(043)

Date: 11/2009

Source: SI29/2009

Shawn McLean Svc. & Tech. Mgr.

Phone: 201.307.4131

 

Svc Info Bulletin Technical Campaign

 

Subject: Replacing Saddlebag Locks

 

Models: R1200RT (K26), R1200R (K27), R1200ST (K28), K1300GT (K44/31)

This can affect K26 & K44/31 motorcycles manufactured between Jan 01, 2009 to June 26, 2009. In order to determine if a specific motorcycle is affected, verify VIN through a DDS Vehicle History Check.

 

Cases for K27 & K28 are optional accessories. Always check production date marked on the case itself. Format is day month year.

 

Cases produced after June 29, 2009 are fitted with lock of improved design.

 

"The repair described in this bulletin is covered under warranty regardless of time or mileage. Reimbursement for the Technical Campaign will be via normal claim entry utilizing the following information:"

 

Defect Code: 00 46 36 00 00 K26 & K44/31 type 1 warranty

Defect Code: 46 54 96 52 00 K27 & K28 type 1 warranty during 3 yr/ 36K mile and type 2 warranty there after

 

Part Numbers: 46 54 7 720 291 Lock, left

46 54 7 720 292 Lock, right

 

 

All that said, my 2009 model RT was produced in Sept/Oct of 2008. I took delivery 11/22/2008. My warranty repair was done based on the date code inside the case itself. It is located near the top at the front of the non-moving half.

 

Hope all that helps.

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xoomerite

Just for bags made during the six months: Jan 2009 - Jun 2009?

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Fubar
Just for bags made during the six months: Jan 2009 - Jun 2009?

No.

My 2009 model RT was produced in Sept/Oct of 2008. My warranty repair was done based on the date code inside the case itself.

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EddyQ

Awsome writeup AD !! :thumbsup:

 

My cases are getting a bit sticky with the cold. I hate the thoughts of opening it up. But I hate the thoughts of breaking something worse.

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dieselwrench

Hi. All

A question for those of you who have taken your saddlebags apart.

Is there an adjustment for the mechanism that holds the bags to the bike?

On one of my saddlebags, pushing the handle down is easy. Pushing the

handle on the other one requires enough force that you'd think something

is going to break!

Thanks

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lawnchairboy

try a little pressure closing the bag shut hard while you push down the release

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dirtrider
Hi. All

A question for those of you who have taken your saddlebags apart.

Is there an adjustment for the mechanism that holds the bags to the bike?

 

 

Afternoon dieselwrench

 

No adjustment BUT BMW has a little bag of "L" shaped plastic feet to get the fit about perfect. The little "L" shaped foot is the part that extends up out of the case & holds the case to the bike. It's been a while but I believe there are 3 thickness in the bag to choose from. The original "L" foot is removable & the new piece just snaps on.

 

Just ask your dealer as there was a service bulletin on it (I believe for case looseness or case rattle) . If you can't find anything give me a PM as I have the part number around here somewhere.

 

 

 

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BerndM

Hey dieselwrench

I had a similar situation where it was basically impossible to push the key button in so the handle would pop up.

One of the forum members here told me to push down on the latch while also pushing in on the key button.

Works like a charm. No more broken thumbs!

I guess by pushing down on the latch, it unloads the mechanism allowing the key button to operate easily.

 

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dieselwrench

Thanks for the replys

I'll check with the parts guy this weekend and see if he knows about the

plastic angles/feet/shims.

If not I'll get back to you for the part numbers D.R.

Or I might try filing the angle thinner

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CoarsegoldKid

What did you find out about those little pieces?

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dieselwrench
What did you find out about those little pieces?

The part number for the kit is 46 54 7 712 002. It costs $7.50.

The kit contains 2 pieces. 1 piece measures 225 thousandths and the other 190 thousandths in thickness. The part on my saddlebag measures 120 thou.

Like DR stated earlier the kit is for compensating for wear and to keep the saddlebag from rattling on the bike.

The problem I have is that when pushing the handle down to lock it on the bike,

I have to push so hard it feels like somethings going to break. I need a thinner

part, not a thicker one.

So the kit does me no good.

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Hall Vince

Buy the kit and sand off one the L parts to suit. Would that be a workable option?

 

For what it's worth I had an R12ST before that I rarely used the bags on. Mainly because I took the bike to France one with them on, less than 5k on the bike and the bags had done much less. I was trying to get the RH one off for over 1/2 hr.

The current RT with two sets of bags (thin and fat) go on/off with little hassle. In fact the thin bags stay on the bike and only come off for washing a few times a year.

hth

\v/

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WestyLancs

Dieselwrench,

at the risk of stating the obvious, I assume you have tried closing the handle with the pannier off the bike,

to confirm it's the fit on the bike, and not a stiff mechanism that's causing the difficulty you have?

I only ask, as the mechanism on mine (06 RT) gets stiff when the weather turns wet, and road grit finds its way behind the securing L piece.

Usually a blast from behind the pannier with a pressure washer followed by a liberal spray of lube tends to sort it.

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wbrissette

A couple of weeks ago I mentioned to my local service writer the service program for the latch assembly. He looked up my bike and turns out my 2009 already had the upgraded latch assembly. So, then I mentioned, I would take them apart and fix the problem. He reminded me I had a few weeks left on my warranty and they could do that under warranty after looking at the latches. So, I dropped off my bags the other day at the dealership. After taking them apart they decided to replace the entire locking mechanism. Wow! I'll say it again, Wow! the buttons now operate smoothly like butter. I'm super impressed.

 

So, if anybody has any warranty left, I would recommend going into your service department and see about getting them fixed under warranty because I've always thought the 05-current assembly was hard, but apparently it doesn't have to be that way.

 

Wayne

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Deek
Had a similar problem and sprayed a bunch of silicon spray in every orifice I could find. Helped a lot. Also, it really helps to press and hold the lever down while your pressing the button.

 

That's about the only way I can get mine open. I will have to try your silicom spray procedure also.....the dealer worked on my 09 RT's side case under warranty(I think there is/was a recall?) but it's not much better. Sorta tricky....but then I also don't feel obligated to lock it with the key.

 

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Deek
Much easier to do with the lid removed from the case. I also put bungee buddies on.

 

Got any photos? I've been thinking of doing that but not sure how they'd work on the double-walled case. Did you do the top or side cases?

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Deek
try a little pressure closing the bag shut hard while you push down the release

 

That's what I have found works.....I press the left case shut with my right knee as I push down on the lever and in on the button......so far I have not had to also rub my belly or pat my head to make this work, but I figure the bike is still pretty new.....

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Hank in WV

Sorry Deek, I gave up trying to figure out pictures a long time ago. I put the buddies on the side cases kind of in line with the lock. The bolts on them are only long enough to go through the outer case. Make sure you are allowing enough room to get a wrench on the nuts before you drill the holes.

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Deek
Sorry Deek, I gave up trying to figure out pictures a long time ago. I put the buddies on the side cases kind of in line with the lock. The bolts on them are only long enough to go through the outer case. Make sure you are allowing enough room to get a wrench on the nuts before you drill the holes.

 

Thanks, that makes sense. I never thought about opening the "innards" to attach them. I have used Bungy Buddies a lot on other bikes, and have four now on my Givi case that's on the Bonneville. They are great products.

 

There is a trick to getting pictures posted, I agree. Took me a while of experimenting. You do of course have to use on online photo hosting account, like Webshots etc. If you want to try again there are plenty of folks here to help; maybe a New Year's Resolution?

 

 

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Tank

thank you gentlemeen.... the leach on the lid let go on my left sidecase and so I removed the spring mechanism and the backing plate fell away as the glue was inadequate. Well, I called Joe up in Coarsegold to see if he had removed the inner lid.

Well , he said no , he hadn't. He did give good directions though.

1. turn on computer

2. go the wrenching (hexhead)

3. read latch repair

 

 

Funny ,I knew that the forum was going to have the solution,

but it was nice to chat with Joe on the eve of Christmas and wish both him and Juanite a peaceful weekend .

I have alot of peace left, so I would like to share it all with you.

Happy Christmas eve to ya all

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8uLiebr

My 2002 RT system case latches are increasingly hard to open and close. I'd like to get inside to see what is catching but the mechanism enclosure is put together with pop rivets. I hate to start drilling those puppies ouit without knowing what I'll find behind them. Any ideas or older threads anyone can point me to?

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8uLiebr

Does anybody have experience with disassembling the multifunction box?

What did you do to make opening and closing the case less difficult? Any trouble putting the multifunction box back together? What size pop rivet is used?

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chuck8195

Unfortunately, I found this website AFTER I decided to clean and lube the mechanism inside my side bags. When I disassembled the bag; a linkage pin, a spring and a short stubby guide pin fell out. I was able to replace the two pins, but the spring is giving me fits! It looks something like a lower-case letter "p". I'm wondering if you may have

any suggestions. Thanks.

 

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Dave Raiman

My side case recently failed to open with my lunch stuck inside. I spent some time taking it apart and lubing it only to have it still not operate properly. It turns out one of the tabs had broken (saw this in a post somewhere). I made a metal bracket to hold the pieces together and now the case works better than it ever has (I got it used). If the picture shows, you can see the piece I made and the broken tab just below in the current orientation of the picture.

 

Edited by Dave Raiman

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TestPilot

Dave,

 

When I click on the link to your picture, all I get is a blank page.

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WestyLancs
Dave,

 

When I click on the link to your picture, all I get is a blank page.

 

+1

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Hall Vince

+2

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