Tail in the air adventure. pics and questions

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

Congrats on getting the gearbox off and apart. And...

 

I'm no Anton, but I'm confident I found the problem, that is unless my bike has a special one of a kind two piece intermediate shaft.

 

Congrats on winning the lottery, so to speak. I've never heard of that happening before.

 

Make sure you inspect the rest of the gearbox carefully for bent/galled/gouged parts.

 

You will probably also need new shims when you get your new interm. shaft; you won't know what shims you need until you do the reassembly.

 

When I did my gearbox last fall, I made a rig for measuring end float on the shafts:

 

 

If you don't already have a measurement setup, PM me, and I'll send you what I've got, along with whatever leftover shims I've got in my possession; Keith borrowed this kit too, and when he sent it back he also sent along his leftover shims. If you're lucky, you won't need to buy any.

[jcguin]

I was just looking back over what Anton said in my first post about the problem. "Only 5th Gear Works" And sure enough he nailed it then. He said it was rare but was possible. Exactly as he described it.

 

Us mere humans must bow before your superior locomotive intellect.

 

Couldnt talk you into parting with a lightly used, Anton approved intermediate shaft from your vast collection for a reasonable fee could ?,,,,, huh huh, could I?

[jcguin]

Thanks Mitch,,,,, I have to locate an intermediate cluster or shaft first but I'll definately take you up on that offer.

[OoPEZoO]

ouch.....a complete shaft with new gears will cost you a little over $900 from where I normally order parts from. Thats a salty repair. I hope you can find a used shaft someplace. On the bright side, you might get lucky enough to find someone with tranny sitting around that has a stripped input spline.......you could scavenge the intermediate shaft and go from there.

 

I'll keep an eye out for ya

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

On the bright side, you might get lucky enough to find someone with tranny sitting around that has a stripped input spline.......you could scavenge the intermediate shaft and go from there.

 

Beemer Boneyard?

[jcguin]

That is exactly what I was hoping for Keith. I figure an input shaft failure is more common than an intermediate, but we'll see.

 

Ya'll have a good weekend and a good ride,,,, for me.

 

Jim

 

 

[jcguin]

They are fresh out of anything M97 right now. He said that if they 100 of them he could find them homes right now. I shot Anton a PM first but I've not heard from him yet. Maybe he will make my weekend.

[OoPEZoO]

Per my experience.....Anton is faster answering emails than PMs. I think he stops in here, but doesn't hang out like the rest of us.

 

Its like he works for a living or something

[jcguin]

Can you PM me a email address? I tried the contact on his website and it said it was disabled after I filled it out.

[jcguin]

 

Some days you just really wish your Fed Ex Man was a Fed Ex Woman,,,,,, cause you really want to hug them.

 

 

 

I now have an "Anton Approved" M97. Talk about quick turn around, exactly one week from Anton receiving it to my carport. Cant ask for more than that. Not to mention the piece of mind. My choice was either buy a used unknown off ebay for 700-900 plus shipping or pay just a very few dollars more plus shipping for one that has been gone over properly by someone who knows them better than the dealer. And can put them together much better than the dealer.

 

 

[jcguin]

Needless to say, I was up till almost midnight putting it back together. I probably could have finished had it not been for the lack of another set of hands, and trying to figure out the pivot bearing tightening sequence on the swingarm/final drive. Then I found this :

 

re: heat up the inner paralever pin, undo the lock nut,

 

partial hijack - but relevant (and mucho wrenching)

 

can someone explain the intricacies of the final drive hardware removal and reinstallation- specifically with regards to the left hand side 12mm pin and 30mm locknut.

 

is this right (my logic from working on pedal bikes) ?

A. DISASSEMBLY

1/ Left side:

heat up the 30 mm locknut - loosen and remove 30mm locknut- 12 mm will come with it.

put the two on the bench, heat and separate.

2/ right side: heat and remove.

 

B. REASSEMBLY:

clean all threads.

right side:

1/ apply redlocktite, assemble & torque it down (big torque)

left side

2/ apply red lock tight on 'lock nut to swing arm interface'. do not put lock tight on 12mm pin

3/ assembly left side loosly

4/ torque the 12mm pin (small torque)

5/ hold the 12 mm hex pin in place with tool - simultaneously tighten 30 mm locknut with a wrench pretty tight

6/ torque the 30mm locknut to final very tight torque spec (at this point as using 30mm socket cant hold the 12mm at same time)

 

 

 

 

 

 

[jcguin]

The next problem I am dealing with is that the sub frame is incredibly reluctant to lower back in position. I knew it was difficult to ratchet up, but I'm down to the last few inches and cannot get it to go any further. I dont know if it is the main wiring harness dragging or what.

 

Anyway I cant seem to see where it is hanging. Was it easy to drop back in position for everyone else who has done this?

[Edgar]

Generally the frame lowers easily except for the last inch. I found that the bind was the wire harness near the battery on the left side.

If you have clips to secure the air cleaner cover, make sure that they are up so that they don't get pinned down by the frame.

If you haven't already, adjust the clutch while you have easy access to it.

[jcguin]

The Air Cleaner Cover clips got me last night. I thought that was what my problem was, but it wasnt. Well, at least it wasnt just me on that last inch. Did you find and fix the bind or just bear down it till it did line up?

[Edgar]

You really want to find the bind as it might be an important wire that you slice through. Work slowly and deliberately and listen for the bind as you lower the frame. Once you find it you may just be able to lightly lube it to reduce the friction (if it's the major cable harness).

[jcguin]

Great,,, thanks.

[jcguin]

I'm still having serious issues getting it to line up. It's almost as though my rear sub frame twisted as a result of ratcheting the tail in the air. I have maybe a quarter inch to go on the left side only. The right side was close enough to line up the bolt and use the bolt to pull it flush.

[Edgar]

You had difficulties getting the rear subframe up, so maybe it was tweaked a bit in the beginning. I doubt that you could have tweaked it on the ratchet up but who knows.

 

Are you learning more than you cared to? Just remember, "We know more than we understand".

 

The test will be placing the long through bolt in frame...the one that you removed. If there is a tweak then you might need to loosen the support struts that attach to the headstock. They are flexible as the head is attached to the shock.

[Anton Largiader]

Usually the edge of the airbox catches it with more than just a fraction of an inch to go. It really should just drop down. Make sure the battery tray studs are poking through their holes and that the wiring harness under the left edge of the tray is in place.

[jcguin]

My problem was the shock was 180 out so the preload adjustment tube came out the wrong side of the airbox and the fitting on top was pressing against the air box. That is what was keeping me 1 inch high.

 

Now my problem is the left side subframe bolt is off 1/4 inch low and to the front (that is the one going into the back of the tranny. The one that goes in back to front on the right went in no problem.

[OoPEZoO]

just take your time with it and keep checking for what is getting hung up. It should drop right back into place. I fought with the airbox on mine for quite awhile.

[jcguin]

OK, I am a happy man again. I just took her for a naked ride. The only problem I have is my gear indication is gone now. It shifts smoother than ever though.

 

Any suggestions on the gear indications?

[jcguin]

I'll wait a bit to put the tupperware on her.

[Anton Largiader]

The only problem I have is my gear indication is gone now.

 

OK, assuming it's plugged in... plugged in all the way? Missing in all gears? Jiggle the plug around a bit.

[jcguin]

I'll try it tomorrow Anton. I've got to tear her down anyway in the morning. Seems I dropped a gas vent tube in the tank. I went to fill her up and left a trail all the way home. I guess it turned into a siphon.

 

 

Oooooops dont tell the EPA.

 

 

God it felt good to ride again. I've got to get another bike so if something should happen again, I dont have to do without for so long. I'm thinking an F650gs or KLR650 when I'm feeling kind of dirty.

 

 

 

 

[jcguin]

Anyone know how the vent tubes are supposed to be routed?

 

The manual is somewhat vague.

 

 

[jcguin]

I figured out the tubes. The manual wasnt vague, my mind was.

[OoPEZoO]

The only problem I have is my gear indication is gone now.

 

Define gone. Does the rest of the display work? Does it do anything at all? I would check the connector first. You might not have it snapped together tightly........or you could have possibly pinched and cut a wire while lowering the frame back into place. Either way, I would start with the wiring and the connector

[DonW]

As one that will end up doing this, I've been glad to watch this process. If you consolidate all the pictures and text, I'd sure like to get copy.

 

Thanks,

 

Don

[jcguin]

Sorry everyone, but work has been crazy since last weekend. Hopefully I'll get the tupperware off this weekend and see the cause of it all. I do know that the it is impossible for the wire or connector to have been smashed by the frame, as I did not route either of those wires (neutral/selector) until after everything was in place. And the connector was done and undone a few times.

 

I'll let you know what I find this weekend.

 

And DonW,,,,,, I'll recompile it all with more pics and post it somewhere.

[jcguin]

The best part of the entire process is without doubt the confidence and pride you gain by tearing it down to the point that your wife and family look at it and ask "are you sure you can get it back together",,,,, and you do!

[OoPEZoO]

I always love the "How do you know how to do stuff like that?" questions. They think I'm joking when I say I don't have a clue

[Woodie]

So, I have a question or two:

 

What do you have to disconnect, in order to remove the Bowden box?

 

How do you get the forward nuts back on the bottom of the battery box? (Getting them off was bad enough!)

 

[OoPEZoO]

What do you have to disconnect, in order to remove the Bowden box?

 

Remove the throttle cables from the linkage on the throttle bodies and twist grip. Remove the fast idle cable from the handle bar. The bowden box itself is just held there by a metal clip. Move the clip and it should slide out the right side of the bike. I had to bend the little metal mount for the fuel tank connector and muscle the box past the breather tube, but it should come out without too much drama.

 

How do you get the forward nuts back on the bottom of the battery box? (Getting them off was bad enough!)

 

Are you refering to the two small nuts that mount on the transmission studs that come up through the bottom of the battery box? If so, as you lower the tail section and fiddle around with the subframe they should eventually line up and be pretty easy to screw back on. I think I used one hand on the subframe and the other on a socket/extention while moving everything around till it all came together.

[Woodie]

I am asking about the front two nuts, under the ABS unit. I had trouble sneaking a wrench under there to get them off, can't imagine how I'm going to get them back on again.

 

[jcguin]

I am asking about the front two nuts, under the ABS unit. I had trouble sneaking a wrench under there to get them off, can't imagine how I'm going to get them back on again.

 

To quote Keith,,,,,, "I dont have a clue" I did not take my abs off in my adventure. Sounds like you are way more adventurous than me. What were you working on that you took yours off?

[Woodie]

Trying to remove the airbox/lift the tail into the air, so I can get a welder to the back of the transmission.

 

Clymer said I had to remove the battery holder, and in order to do that I had to lift the ABS unit up and out of the way, to get to the front two nuts holding the battery case. (the back two are right under the battery, so easy to get to)

 

[jcguin]

Clymer lied to you,,,,,, Haynes lied to me. Sorry to hear that. Haynes said that the fuse box and the tail lights had to go.

 

Fortunately, I wore out my welcome with the gurus on the board who have been through this before. I thank them for their patience. I'm no guru, but I can say what had to go and what did not now. When you are done, you will too. And the battery box and ABS were not part of the list. I guess we need to put up a list in order that includes all.

[jcguin]

Did you actually remove the ABS, or just disconnect to get underneath?

 

 

 

[OoPEZoO]

ugh.....wish I could help. You shouldn't have touched the ABS unit to raise the rear end.

[OoPEZoO]

Clymer said I had to remove the battery holder, and in order to do that I had to lift the ABS unit up and out of the way, to get to the front two nuts holding the battery case. (the back two are right under the battery, so easy to get to)

 

yeah......they just flat out lied. All you have to do is remove the two nuts under the battery. That frees the studs on top of the transmission. You shouldn't have had to mess with the ABS unit at all.

[Anton Largiader]

I never mess with the nuts under the ABS unit. I just remove the nuts for the battery tray.

[Woodie]

jcguin's picture is right on. Disconnect the Motronic and the ABS controller, so you can pull the ABS up far enough to get at the nuts underneath it, so you can remove the battery holder. What a PITA that was! Especially, since that meant disconnecting the throttle cables as well!

 

AAARGGGHHH!!!!

 

[OoPEZoO]

repeat after me......I love my bike, I love my bike, I love my bike

[jcguin]

I love my bike too, I love my bike too!

 

There's no place like the road,

 

There's no place like the road.

[Woodie]

OK, I'm doing something wrong.

 

I'm trying to bring that tail up...but, the air filter housing is binding against the battery case. Is the airbox supposed to go up with the frame or stay down with the drive-train?

 

 

[jcguin]

The air box was fairly flexible and will stay down until it comes free. It will bend a bit at first but once you get the studs from the tranny clear of the battery box it will bow a bit at first then release. You did remove the screw from the backside of the airbox and the front correct?

[OoPEZoO]

I remember fighting with my airbox quite a bit.

[Woodie]

The airbox is trying to come up...the two screw-holes to keep the top on are getting caught by the subframe.

How do the studs from the tranny (in the battery box) come clear? The whole battery box moves up too?

I got the backside screw for the airbox--there's a front-side one?

 

 

[jcguin]

Yes, if I remember correctly they are on the side at the top front. I've got my tupperware back on or I'd go check.