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1994 RSL small issues


hadfield4wd

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OK all I've joined here recently and absolutely love my new bike. I'm planning some adventures amny of which will be solo.

 

Anyway I have a couple of small issues I'd like to get straight.

 

The first is my electronic fuel gauge never registers full. It's always 2 bars below. And it goes to no bars, but no light comes on. And I only put 4 gallons in it. Is there a way to make and adjustment to the sender? I assume it's some sort potentiameter.

 

Second. How do I mount my cell phone? There are no bars for a bar mount any suggestions?

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Morning Matt

 

On the fuel gauge inaccuracy?-- could be a lot of things.

 

Probably the place to start is to make sure the fuel pump pass through plate is clocked correctly. If it is off one hole that will make the float reading very inaccurate.

 

If clocking is OK then verify the tank electrical ground has very low (almost no) resistance to battery (-) post.

Or better yet add a redundant ground from pump pass through plate to the battery (-) post.

 

Pump/float assembly grounds are a big problem on the early oilhead bikes.

 

If still an issue then clean the float wiper & wire winding with a good Techron product. (you might even try a little Techron in the fuel tank before doing anything that requires tank removal (amount per gallon directions on the Techron can)

 

As a last resort AFTER verifying all above possibly bend the float arm enough to show correct fuel level.

 

On the cell phone mounting?-- I can't help you very much until you tell us where you want the phone to be on the bike (like in full view or just mounted somewhere handy)

 

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There's an electric connector coming out of the tank - probably on the right side of the bike. Resistance builds up in the two parts of that connector. Open it up and clean both ends with electric contact cleaner, more than once. That is likely to restore most of your missing fuel bars on the RID.

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Is there an online manual you guys know of that I can download?

 

Or should I jsut get the clymer or haynes. Which one is better. I've used haynes for my cars but mostly clymer with my bikes.

 

Thanks for the quick help.

 

I'll start with cleaning the connectors I have contact cleaner and dialectric grease here.

 

I assume the manual has the proper clocking in it of the

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Is there an online manual you guys know of that I can download?

 

Or should I jsut get the clymer or haynes. Which one is better. I've used haynes for my cars but mostly clymer with my bikes.

 

Thanks for the quick help.

 

I'll start with cleaning the connectors I have contact cleaner and dialectric grease here.

 

I assume the manual has the proper clocking in it of the

 

Afternoon Matt

 

Not much for an online manual for the very early RSL that I know of. The standard BMW 1100 RT-R-GS manual will cover most but things are different in some areas on the early RSL.

 

As for the Clymer or Haynes, they both have some good & some bad & do have a number of critical mistakes.

 

Best manual is to just ask here on this site, lots of background here & some of us have a multitude of BMW manuals that we can cross the info for accuracy.

 

I'm not sure the manual has the clocking for the early RSL, I can't remember but most have a line or mark on the tank as well as a tit or mark on the pump pass through to line up.

 

Be careful on how/where you put that dialectic grease as it is an insulator so try not to get it between the terminals. Clean the terminals then put it back together, then put some dialectic grease in the backs of the connectors.

 

The problem is usually in the (brown) ground wire circuit so personally I would measure the resistance between the pump pass though plate & the battery (-) post before disturbing anything in the connector. (there is also BMW service bulletin to run a separate ground from pump pass though plate to battery (-) post)

 

RSL%20pump%20plate_zpsuugkgdsd.png

 

 

 

Edited by dirtrider
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DR is guiding you along the route to fixing this.

As an addition, high resistance in any of the connectors of the RID interface will cause inaccuracy.

As Michael said, clean the connector that comes out of the tank (clean both the male and female contacts). There is also (I believe) a connector near to the display unit. Again, clean the contacts on that.

 

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One item not covered is the low level light. On my oilheads, the gauge shows no bars for quite a while before the yellow dash warning light comes on. When it comes on, I have about a gallon left (35-40 miles) before walking.

 

Your 4 gallon refill sounds like you are refilling at the moment the gauge drops to zero bars. One way to know for sure how much you have left is to carry a gallon of fuel with you and ride it until you run out. Note the mileage when the light comes on and when you stop. Add the spare gallon, then immediately get to a station and refuel to the top. Add the gallon to the amount from the pump and you have your total "real world" capacity, and your miles-from-light-to-empty range.

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One item not covered is the low level light. On my oilheads, the gauge shows no bars for quite a while before the yellow dash warning light comes on. When it comes on, I have about a gallon left (35-40 miles) before walking.

 

Your 4 gallon refill sounds like you are refilling at the moment the gauge drops to zero bars. One way to know for sure how much you have left is to carry a gallon of fuel with you and ride it until you run out. Note the mileage when the light comes on and when you stop. Add the spare gallon, then immediately get to a station and refuel to the top. Add the gallon to the amount from the pump and you have your total "real world" capacity, and your miles-from-light-to-empty range.

 

Evening mark

 

Unlike your RT system the RSL only uses a single float for both fuel gauge & low fuel light. He would be wasting his time fooling with the low fuel light until he gets the float system working & reading correctly.

 

 

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I agree completely that any float issues need to be sorted out first. I just wanted to suggest how to proceed on the low level warning when he's ready.

 

School me :) : Any reason my range-finding and tank filling suggestions would not work on a (properly functioning) R11?

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I agree completely that any float issues need to be sorted out first. I just wanted to suggest how to proceed on the low level warning when he's ready.

 

School me :) : Any reason my range-finding and tank filling suggestions would not work on a (properly functioning) R11?

 

Yep, that will work but personally I'm not a big fan of running a high pressure fuel injection systems out of fuel as that is a good way to ruin a fuel pump.

 

Those in-tank fuel pumps are both internally lubricated & cooled by the fuel passing through them so running one low or out of fuel is not very pump friendly.

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I don't even like to regularly run a tank low for pump cooling reasons. That said, running a pump dry once in its life to obtain hard data seems like a reasonable trade-off to me. YMMV :)

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I think your handlebars are the same as mine (a 1996 rsl). I got a ram mount, and attached it between the left mirror stalk and the bar. I recall that it did take some filing down on one side (with a simple hand file) to fit it in there. I also drilled out the hole partially. I think the existing hole was strangely too big, and not big enough. I drilled a small lip into the hole so the mirror stalk would sit in there better (simple hand drill)

 

Rammount.com Part Number: RAM-B-252U

 

Then, of course, you need the rest of the assembly, so that it resembles this set up: Part Number: RAP-B-236-A-UN7

 

I recall that there weren't a lot of good, simple options for this bike. This one, despite sounding complex with the modifications, is the best I've found, and I'd do it again.

Edited by elkroeger
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Now this IS an interesting thread. So happens that the fuel gauge on my '93 R1100RSL never shows all bar lit with a full tank. There is always two bars missing. I just have never given it much thought and have just said to myself, "Oh well, it is what it is". Come to think of it I can't even remember when it got so low on fuel that the low fuel lamp ever came on. Where I do most of my riding I am very careful to keep the tank full and never go much below half full if I can avoid it. There has been a population exodus in Eastern Oregon and many gas stations have closed.

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I don't even like to regularly run a tank low for pump cooling reasons. That said, running a pump dry once in its life to obtain hard data seems like a reasonable trade-off to me. YMMV :)

 

I am not sure that gives any real hard data.

Each time you ride, the weather conditions, road conditions altitude can knock that data into a cocked hat and is of no value.

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I don't even like to regularly run a tank low for pump cooling reasons. That said, running a pump dry once in its life to obtain hard data seems like a reasonable trade-off to me. YMMV :)

 

I am not sure that gives any real hard data.

Each time you ride, the weather conditions, road conditions altitude can knock that data into a cocked hat and is of no value.

I agree it doesn't provide "precise" data -- but it does give an actual, useful datapoint from which one can judge how conditions have varied (e.g., more headwind, higher/lower speed, hills).

 

Alternatively stated, it takes one from *no* idea how much is left when the lights comes on or the last bar goes out, to "ok, I have at roughly 35 miles left under normal conditions, so I know I can go more than 10 miles to the next gas station, but not 25-30 miles if I don't want to get too close to walking."

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Well I don't even know if the light works. And I don't like running a tank dry. I may resort to it. I don't like running with nothing showing on the level gauge either. Maybe I'm anal?

 

My dirt bikes don't have gauges, but I ride until I hit the reserve, but don't have to worry about a pump either.

 

Thanks again for the help. When it gets above freezing in the garage I'll start the trouble shooting process.

Edited by hadfield4wd
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I guess I've owned too many Chevys :rofl: ...cuz I gave up on fuel gauge accuracy a long time ago. I can't be the only one that uses their trip odometer to know when to fill up (on just about everything except the boat).

 

Having said that, my RT's gauge seems to be very accurate, when I actually look at it. ;)

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Now this IS an interesting thread. So happens that the fuel gauge on my '93 R1100RSL never shows all bar lit with a full tank. There is always two bars missing. I just have never given it much thought and have just said to myself, "Oh well, it is what it is". Come to think of it I can't even remember when it got so low on fuel that the low fuel lamp ever came on. Where I do most of my riding I am very careful to keep the tank full and never go much below half full if I can avoid it. There has been a population exodus in Eastern Oregon and many gas stations have closed.

 

My top one or two bars is missing too. Never had the time to look at it. I've run plenty of techron in the system.

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Fill to bottom of neck.

Ride 100 miles.

Fill to bottom of neck.

Ride 100 miles.

You'll get a pretty good idea of mpg.

My '96 was 23L (@6gal) in theory w/@2L (@1/2 gal) reserve.

Never liked getting down to there so used the mileage gauge to determine fuels stops.

I got from 38+ to 48+ depending on use.

So 5 gallons gave me 180-215 miles (I was usually closer to 38 mpg w/my use) and I always filled up early.

Worked for the 40,000 miles I owned it.

YMMV

Best wishes.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
hadfield4wd

OK so I've been a bit lazy. I've been riding instead. Mostly dirt but still manage to put a couple hundred miles on in a weekend. Usually Sunday afternoon after all the dirt bikes are washed and put away.

 

Anyway. I started pulling fairings. Stupid thing is worse than a Utility quad. The fuel part that DR wants me to check the clocking of means I have to pull the tank. But I can't seem to find a fuel shut off. And I can't see in there either.

 

I did clean the connector which was accessable without channelling the German engineers through a medium.

 

DR do yo have a wiring diagram? I want to know which terminals I need to check the resistance between?

 

Thanks for all the help.

 

Seems like a lot of work for 2 bars on a fuel gauge.

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FWIW, I had a 93 RS and was obsessive/compulsive about that damn fuel gauge. I had the bike for over 150,000 miles and finally got it right by:

 

1) cleaning all contacts as discussed

2) drilling out the unleaded fuel restrictor so I could top the tank off (after removing the catalyst, of course)

3) physically bending the float arm down so that the low fuel light gave me about 1 gallon (45 miles) of fuel left. Previously, I felt it came on too early.

 

Even after all that, sometimes the top bar would only stay "lit" for about 10 miles or so. Oddly enough, if I turn the heated grips on, it lit up longer, or lit up at all--indicating, I suppose, the electrical nature of the "problem".

 

I laugh now at my insanity...but I'd probably do it again!

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hadfield4wd

I'll simplify my questions.

 

Where is the fuel shut off?

 

What wires do I check resistance between?

 

Thanks.

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Afternoon Matt

 

The fuel shut off is the ignition key (no manual fuel shut off on a fuel injected BMW)

 

Check the resistance between the brown/or/tan wires at fuel tank connector to the battery negative post)

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hadfield4wd

DR thanks.

 

So I stick the red probe in the connector at the brown/tan and the black probe on the battery?

 

I hate electrical stuff.

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hadfield4wd

Also I do this while it's not connected right?

 

I cleaned the terminals while I had it disconnected. About 4 times. I also used my needle files to get past any corrosion. Then cleaned it again. I got 1 bar back. So I'm only 1 bar from full. But I did ride it again so I'll have to fill up as well. I can't stop riding it, it's a sickness. :dopeslap:

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  • 3 weeks later...
hadfield4wd

All right so I'm filling this to the bottom of the spout (for lack of a better term) on the tank. I took the tank off as much as I could. It's got crimped on fuel fittings so I didnt want to get into cutting them off the. Using hose clamps at this point. But there are Allen head screws in the fuel pickup I assume they can be loosened and the whole thing can be turned a little? I figure if I turn on counter clockwise that will make th arm move up on the sensor?

 

Thanks again for all you help.

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hadfield4wd

I still need to check the ground wire before I make any changes but I ride to empty the tank the. I fill it up and needs to be ridden to empty it. This vicious cycle keeps happening

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  • 2 years later...
hadfield4wd

So this bike continues to be fantastic. I am going on my first long trip in a couple of weeks. My son is going and riding his sv650. He runs rotella T6 5W-40 in it. For simplicity any reason why can't as well? I normally run BMW oil 15w 50. But the manual says I can run10w 40-50.

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So this bike continues to be fantastic. I am going on my first long trip in a couple of weeks. My son is going and riding his sv650. He runs rotella T6 5W-40 in it. For simplicity any reason why can't as well? I normally run BMW oil 15w 50. But the manual says I can run10w 40-50.

 

Evening hadfield4wd

 

You CAN use the Rotella 5w40 but it is a bit thin for older 1150 bikes (especially in very warm or hot weather). The 5w40 might increase your oil usage a bit (so watch that) & the engine could run a bit noisier as far as chain rattles & internal noises.

 

 

 

 

 

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hadfield4wd
So this bike continues to be fantastic. I am going on my first long trip in a couple of weeks. My son is going and riding his sv650. He runs rotella T6 5W-40 in it. For simplicity any reason why can't as well? I normally run BMW oil 15w 50. But the manual says I can run10w 40-50.

 

Evening hadfield4wd

 

You CAN use the Rotella 5w40 but it is a bit thin for older 1150 bikes (especially in very warm or hot weather). The 5w40 might increase your oil usage a bit (so watch that) & the engine could run a bit noisier as far as chain rattles & internal noises.

 

 

 

 

 

Hmm good info. So a heavier oil will works best. Thanks. That's what I wantwd to hear. I wonder if I can switch the sv to heavier oil?

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All right so I'm filling this to the bottom of the spout (for lack of a better term) on the tank. I took the tank off as much as I could. It's got crimped on fuel fittings so I didnt want to get into cutting them off the. Using hose clamps at this point. But there are Allen head screws in the fuel pickup I assume they can be loosened and the whole thing can be turned a little? I figure if I turn on counter clockwise that will make th arm move up on the sensor?

 

Thanks again for all you help.

 

Matt,

 

Your fuel cut-off is in your tool box, it's your vise-grips (or a regular pair of pliers with a bungee cord wrapped around the handle). I've used both. It doesn't have to be real tight to stop any leak and you don't want to damage the rubber hose. Where you see the two soft rubber hoses from the tank attached to the smaller hard plastic lines with Oetiker clamps, clamp just forward (tank side) on the soft rubber hose from the pump. The other hose is the return and it won't drain after the pressure is off. So how do you tell which line is the pump line??

 

You can cut the Oetiker clamps with dikes, then drain the tank into a gas can. Use screw clamps on reassembly and they need to be tight. The pump puts out about 45 PSI and will try to blow it off but the PRV reduces it to 25 or so for the injectors.

 

If you are referring to rotating the 6" diameter access flange with the 6 Fillister head hex (Allen) screws (per DirtRider's post and diagram, #5 I think) to adjust the float arm, that ain't gonna work; it only adjusts every 60 degrees. But not really because then it won't fit. The holes are all fixed.

 

For your phone mount, Ram makes a 1" ball with a threaded post that screws into the hole under both of those small black plastic caps on the top of each fork tube. Then get the short double ended clamp and phone holder from Ram, too. Works very well on my R1100S. Amazon has all that stuff.

Edited by Lowndes
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how about the semi synthetic 15w-40?

 

Morning

 

The 15w40 would definitely be a better choice than 5w40 but if riding in very hot weather or sitting in a hot afternoon traffic jam the 15w50 (synthetic) or 20w50 (conventional) would probably be a better choice yet.

 

 

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ncstatecamp

Hey I know I'm way behind on this, and admittedly I havent read all the posts but I also just recently aquired an RSL as well. For the fuel gauge, if you take out the fuel pump, just sand and clean the screwed connections and take a swab with a bit of alcohol to all the connections and the contact area for the sweep of the arm.

 

For your cell phone I bought this guy and absolutely love it! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017UC20QC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I did have to bend the mount so it cleared all the gauges.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Ok another question.

 

How do I jump start this? The battery is a pain to access.

 

Afternoon hadfield4wd

 

If you need to do it once in a while then just remove the plastic cover over the starter & jump directly to the large post on the rear of starter solenoid. (that will back-feed power to the rest on the bike's systems also)

 

If you intend to jump it a lot then BMW offered a (+) battery jumper post or terminal that sticks through the plastic starter cover with a snap on cap. Just remove the cap then jump (+12v) to that post & jump (12v-) to a clean frame or engine grounding point. (you will have to drill a hole in the starter cover to install)

 

OR, on the old R bikes we used to bolt a short battery cable to the starter solenoid large post with the other end stripped back to expose the copper wire then a .32 empty brass bullet case soldered on to the stripped back end. Then slide a large rubber vacuum cap over that exposed .32 brass to protect it from shorts. Just let it hang down with just enough access. (or it could be run up & terminated under the seat)

 

To jump just remove vacuum cap & jump (+12v) to the brass .32 case.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by dirtrider
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hadfield4wd

Thank you. I don't intend to do this a lot. But we're taking our first hig trip and I'm just preparing.

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  • 2 weeks later...
hadfield4wd

This bike has been flawless this trip. The front suspension is squeaking though. So I'll pull the front suspension apart when I get home and figure it out.

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hadfield4wd
Try pulling the bolt holding the front shock to the telelever arm, grease it and replace.

 

Yep thats the plan. We rode 2469 miles last week. Bike was fantastic, although a Sargent Seat will benon irder shortly. Lol

 

I would wager 1/2 of those miles were in the rain. So the bike will be getting a nice teardown and grease. I just picked up a new jug of maxima waterproof grease.

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hadfield4wd

I also want to sunc my carbs. I want to make the sync tool and not buy the $90 motion pro one.

 

Does anybody know what size tubing this guy uses?

 

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hadfield4wd

I bought a carb sync tool. Not motion pro, as I refuse to purchase their products.

 

Does anybody know of a replacement for the system luggage? Mine did very well at keeping the stuff dry, however I don't like the clamshell design. I would love panniers that are top opening but use the same mounts.

 

Also the side stand is worthless. It will not hold up my bike. Is there a replacement that will hold up the bike?

 

I can put a piece of cutting board on the bottom, but will 1/4" be enough?

Edited by hadfield4wd
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  • 1 year later...

Doing my winter maintenance.  Does anybody know a cross reference for the alternator belt that I don't have to buy at the BMW store.  Same for a battery.  

 

Getting:

 

New rear tire

Splines lubed

Final drive oil

Transmission oil

Rear brakes

New air filter

New battery. 

20190119_181814.jpg

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Afternoon Matt

 

The belt is (should be) a Continental 4PK 611 SR. (see if this is still visible on your current belt to verify correct)

 

The 611 is 611mm & that is the belt size. The 4PK is the rib configuration.

 

You should be able to source it on-line or at your local auto parts store.

 

On the battery replacement I’m not sure as the very early 1100RS might be different. What is the size of your current battery ( length/ width/ height/ AmpHour rating)?     

1100RS belt.jpg

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