Switching to HID

[cali_beemer]

So, I just had a bulb go out on my 08 RT...I had an 05 RT and if I remember correct, the bulbs are notorious for blowing on these bikes...So, I started giving consideration to the HID idea. Any good quality, reliable, plug and play options that work with the canbus? Should I just put in the PIAA super white bulbs and not screw with it? Does the stock projectors work well with HID or is splotchy like some bikes? The high and low beams are H7, correct?

 

 

[DiggerJim]

I like HIDs so my opinion may be biased - throwing 10,000 lumens down the road has benefits here in the northeast forest ratville.

 

I replaced all of my bulbs with HIDs. I used to run Silverstars on the 1150 but switched that to HIDs and then one of the first things I did with the 1200 was drop in a triple pack (all bulbs, 2 lows & 1 high are H7s). I've had no problem with the light quality or the throw distance - no splotchiness or other artifacts.

 

Some folks here frown on HID conversions for motorcycles because all of the parts have not been designed as a unit. I appreciate their opinion but continue to run HIDs.

 

Make sure you re-aim you headlights after you replace them - an off line H7 might not get too much negative attention from glare, etc. but a misaligned HID may. So, do the other motorists a favor and re-aim the lights.

 

Then sit back for the next couple/three years not having to replace bulbs. (BTW, the Silverstars & Silverstar Ultras burn out faster than stock halogens so going to those won't help your replacement issue.)

 

For suppliers both Futurevision HID and DDM Tuning are worth a look.

 

[cali_beemer]

Wow, big price difference between the two....I know DDM has been around a while but do they interface with the canbus?

 

55w or 35w?

[Ponch]

I was going to ask the same thing plus color temp.

[cali_beemer]

If I go DDM do I need a canbus interface?

[OoPEZoO]

I had to replace the low beam in my GS three times in the first year. I finally got tired of it and also missed the light output of the HID setup I had on my RT. I bought a kit from DDM Tuning, installed it, and have since completely forgot about it. The lighting is great, I never get flashed by oncoming traffic, and no CANBUS issues. I bought the 35W 5000K version. I would buy it again in a second.

 

The bulbs in the HID setup I had on my RT lasted over 100k miles with no issues. I'm hoping for the same with this. So far, so good.

[Guest Kakugo]

Wow, big price difference between the two....I know DDM has been around a while but do they interface with the canbus?

 

55w or 35w?

 

From what I have heard from car enthusiasts, 55W kits are about 40% brighter than 35W kits. While this may sound fine and dandy, most reflective housing won't be able to cope with the extra output and it will create the so called "glare" effect. My optics classes didn't go as far as to explain exactly what happens but it doesn't sound good.

Also 55W may damage plastic headlights because they tend to concentrate considerably higher UV output (and heat) in relatively small area.

And 55W ballasts are slightly larger than 35W units, making neat fitment on bikes, where space is a premium, harder.

 

Finally a note about ballasts: regardless of output, digital ones should be preferred over conventional (and cheaper) units because the chipset in them doesn't just better regulate electrical flow: it will also minimize heat production and electrical interference. Very useful if you have a radio on board.

 

 

[eddd]

... The lighting is great, I never get flashed by oncoming traffic, and no CANBUS issues. I bought the 35W 5000K version. I would buy it again in a second.

 

The bulbs in the HID setup I had on my RT lasted over 100k miles with no issues. I'm hoping for the same with this. So far, so good.

 

 

Pretty much my experience.

 

 

[Huzband]

35w 5k jobs in the RT for a couple years. Love the light, never flashed, no issues.

 

Edit; I also have the HID high beam. When I get around to it, I'm going to replace it with the H7. HID takes too long to warm up to be effective at flashing for passing, oncoming high beams, etc.

[mig]

35 w for the last year, no issues, and a big diffrence

very bright I think I did 4300k nice and white

[Huzband]

35 w for the last year, no issues, and a big diffrence

very bright I think I did 4300k nice and white

 

5500k is daylight. Below or above changes color. Higher Kelvin does not equal brighter output. For instance, 7k is not brighter than 5k, it's actually not as bright.

[Ponch]

Higher than 5500 is a blue shift and below is red shift. Blue light doesn't penetrate the dark as well. I could never understand people that get blue HID. I guess it looks cool, no pun intended, but it's not as effective at night.

[Atomicman]

I have the Yana-shiki setup 35W 6K. There 6K is not blue and in fact has been flawless in my '09 RT for 3 years now.

 

Running an Osram 65W Halogen Highbeam

 

http://www.yanashiki.com/product_p/hidh7-6k.htm

 

http://www.yanashiki.com/category_s/962.htm

 

 

[Luma46]

So the DDM kit they are showing on their page is universal for both cars and motorcycles? Do I need any additional hardware ( brackets, harness) or is the basic kit all what I need?

[OoPEZoO]

I didn't buy anything other than the basic kit. On my GS, I just ended up using double sided tape and zip ties to mount the ballast up under the fairing.

 

On my old RT, the ballast was zip tied into the empty speaker pod behind the dash. I'm not sure what works best on the newer RT's.

[Fubar]

Higher than 5500 is a blue shift and below is red shift. Blue light doesn't penetrate the dark as well. I could never understand people that get blue HID. I guess it looks cool, no pun intended, but it's not as effective at night.

I've had mine for 3+ years and love them. I went slightly blue (around 5800K, I think) and would advise against it, the reflection from signs is a little weird but not disconcertingly so. Stay white.

The light output is phenomenal compared to stock. I did not have to adjust and have no problems getting flashed. I didn't replace the high beam as it gets used rarely.

Also, some have a slim ballast which I went with and it made mounting a lot easier.

Mine only cost $60 for the pair so I will gladly put them in every vehicle from now on instead of paying a grand or more as some auto mfrs. are charging for the option.

[Ponch]

Higher than 5500 is a blue shift and below is red shift. Blue light doesn't penetrate the dark as well. I could never understand people that get blue HID. I guess it looks cool, no pun intended, but it's not as effective at night.

I've had mine for 3+ years and love them. I went slightly blue (around 5800K, I think) and would advise against it, the reflection from signs is a little weird but not disconcertingly so. Stay white.

The light output is phenomenal compared to stock. I did not have to adjust and have no problems getting flashed. I didn't replace the high beam as it gets used rarely.

Also, some have a slim ballast which I went with and it made mounting a lot easier.

Mine only cost $60 for the pair so I will gladly put them in every vehicle from now on instead of paying a grand or more as some auto mfrs. are charging for the option.

 

I see sportbikes with blue headlights alot. I guess they don't ride at night.

[Heck]

Been using HID in my cars and bikes for years now. +1 on DDM- color 4500 is white and according to most charts gives you the most lumens. Again, be sure to re adjust your lights so you dont blind the on-comers. Used to use PIAA extreme white 55=110W in the high beam- you can just barely tell when it is lit. Go for it- much better lighting.

 

[Plasterman]

Anyone have a part # for this Bulb? -- Osram 65W Halogen Highbeam

 

 

 

I have the Yana-shiki setup 35W 6K. There 6K is not blue and in fact has been flawless in my '09 RT for 3 years now.

 

Running an Osram 65W Halogen Highbeam

 

http://www.yanashiki.com/product_p/hidh7-6k.htm

 

http://www.yanashiki.com/category_s/962.htm

 

[Smidsy]

64217?

[Guest Kakugo]

64217?

 

That would be it.

 

However I personally advise giving the new Osram Nightbreaker Plus a try.

It lasts longer and puts out very white light.

[Fubar]

Forgot to mention in previous post: 35W bulbs. No need for 55's.

[cali_beemer]

Well, I ordered the 35w, vvme digital slim kit, 4300k light kit....I'm hoping no issues with the canbus

[Rougarou]

My DDMs should be in today and I plan on installing sometime this weekend. The only question I have is do I need to remove the metal bulb reflector in the housing or just leave it in place?

 

Thanks

[Fubar]

I just removed the bulb from the rear of the housing by removing the cap. Then drilled a hole through the cap. Never touched the reflector. No CANBUS issues either.

[OoPEZoO]

I just removed the bulb from the rear of the housing by removing the cap. Then drilled a hole through the cap. Never touched the reflector. No CANBUS issues either.

 

+1........it was a very quick swap. Hardest thing was trying to figure out where to put the ballast

[Rougarou]

Thanks much!! I thought I had read somewhere that the metal thingy should be removed, but if it's just a matter of swapping bulbs, no problem.

[Smidsy]

My DDMs should be in today and I plan on installing sometime this weekend. The only question I have is do I need to remove the metal bulb reflector in the housing or just leave it in place?

 

Thanks

 

Can you provide a link to exactly what you ordered? Please report after the install I'd like to try these also.

[Rougarou]

My DDMs should be in today and I plan on installing sometime this weekend. The only question I have is do I need to remove the metal bulb reflector in the housing or just leave it in place?

 

Thanks

 

Can you provide a link to exactly what you ordered? Please report after the install I'd like to try these also.

 

Install went as smooth as could be with the contortion efforts of getting the bulbs in place. My bike came with the radio prep in place so I removed the speakers and placed the ballasts in the speaker locations.

 

DDM Tuning I ordered the dual bulb kit in 4300k color and 35 watt power.

 

Don't mind the mess or the bad picture, but you get the idea of what they look like.

 

[Smidsy]

Thanks! That's the one I was looking at but the price seemed to good to be true.

 

I just added a small two-channel amp to make use of my radio prep package so I'll be looking elsewhere to mount the ballasts.

[Plasterman]

 

 

I order and received this kit. Installed it and now the canbus keeps shutting them down? Any suggestions?

 

 

 

Tom

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have the Yana-shiki setup 35W 6K. There 6K is not blue and in fact has been flawless in my '09 RT for 3 years now.

 

Running an Osram 65W Halogen Highbeam

 

http://www.yanashiki.com/product_p/hidh7-6k.htm

 

http://www.yanashiki.com/category_s/962.htm

 

[Jack90210]

Here's my zwei pfenning ...

 

In all of this positive feedback for HIDs I've yet to see anyone directly mention the QUALITY of the beam spread after the conversion (no surprise there, as usually this factor doesn't directly come up in these discussions at all).

 

Like several other folks, I run the Osram 65w (incandescent) bulbs. They throw light well down the road, maintain the stock cutoff, and **don't scatter too much light outside the (well-designed, IMO) center focus of the lens**. This last item is quite important to me ....

 

I actually believe that "extra" light on the road in the wrong places can -- counter-intuitively -- make it harder to see *where you want to see*. An example: I don't ever use the stock foglights on cars because they add extra light NEAR the vehicle, scattering extra light *outside* of the area where my eyes are focused (several hundred feet down the road, and mostly directly in front of my vehicle) which then reflects back into my eyes reducing my night vision. Another example would be the often-recommended PIAA 1100x lamps; for me, they appear to "smear" their light all over the road -- again, most of it well outside the typical "focus zone" where you spend most of your time looking while riding, making them ineffective (even counterproductive) for night riding (they are great for conspicuity during the day). Sure, they add extra lumens on the road overall, but the effect is similar to turning up your dashboard display lights -- it's more light in the wrong place.

 

I hate to be a wet blanket but I have long proposed that if the quality of the beam spread is important to you then you may not be pleased with an HID conversion.

[Alfred02]

Hello Jack

You do have some valid points.

HID beam spread is very different to the original ones. I converted my previous 04 1150RT to HID and it's beam was certainly a lot wider then it's original.

 

Just be aware that what you might dislike, others will think as a gift from heaven.

I on purpose "always" turn on the fog lights in any car I drive if they have them. To me the extra light does give me more visual detail at night.

The HID's on my 1150RT used to lighten up the trees at the road edge, which to myself is very re-insuring as it gives me more pre-warning of any animals coming out of the bush.

The same light might be annoying or distracting to riders like yourself from the sound of it.

 

These are personal likes and dislikes. But yes, other potential users should be aware of it, because if you end up not liking it, then restoring the bike back is more work involved and requires 1~2 new back covers due to the large holes they require to have drilled into them.

For myself, I have just ordered another HID kit to fit out my current 1200RT

[OoPEZoO]

 

I order and received this kit. Installed it and now the canbus keeps shutting them down? Any suggestions?

 

 

 

Tom

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have the Yana-shiki setup 35W 6K. There 6K is not blue and in fact has been flawless in my '09 RT for 3 years now.

 

Running an Osram 65W Halogen Highbeam

 

http://www.yanashiki.com/product_p/hidh7-6k.htm

 

http://www.yanashiki.com/category_s/962.htm

 

 

First thing I would do is pull the original headlight wiring from the HID setup and plug a standard bulb back in. No need to put it in the housing, just plug it in (and don't stare at it when you turn it on). See if the CANBUS warnings go out. If they do, shut the bike down, reconnect the HID's and fire it back up. If the CANBUS warning come back, then your ballasts do not play nice with the CANBUS. There are special resistor harnesses you can usually buy to remedy the situation, but if it was me.......I would return them to where ever you got them and buy the cheaper ones from DDM that don't mess with the CANBUS.

[Plasterman]

Did you really pay $20 Shipping cost. Ouch!

 

 

 

My DDMs should be in today and I plan on installing sometime this weekend. The only question I have is do I need to remove the metal bulb reflector in the housing or just leave it in place?

 

Thanks

 

Can you provide a link to exactly what you ordered? Please report after the install I'd like to try these also.

 

Install went as smooth as could be with the contortion efforts of getting the bulbs in place. My bike came with the radio prep in place so I removed the speakers and placed the ballasts in the speaker locations.

 

DDM Tuning I ordered the dual bulb kit in 4300k color and 35 watt power.

 

Don't mind the mess or the bad picture, but you get the idea of what they look like.

 

[Rougarou]

$50.53 total.....can you find HIDs cheaper? These, from not only reviews here but elsewhere come highly recommended.

 

Did you really pay $20 Shipping cost. Ouch!

 

 

 

My DDMs should be in today and I plan on installing sometime this weekend. The only question I have is do I need to remove the metal bulb reflector in the housing or just leave it in place?

 

Thanks

 

Can you provide a link to exactly what you ordered? Please report after the install I'd like to try these also.

 

Install went as smooth as could be with the contortion efforts of getting the bulbs in place. My bike came with the radio prep in place so I removed the speakers and placed the ballasts in the speaker locations.

 

DDM Tuning I ordered the dual bulb kit in 4300k color and 35 watt power.

 

Don't mind the mess or the bad picture, but you get the idea of what they look like.

 

[SWB]

Questions:

 

1) Did you folks replace both the two standard and the single bright H7's, or just one or the other?

 

2) Would a modulator interfere with the HID installation? Do any you have a headlight modulator integrated with a HID light? I have the modulator hooked into the bright bulb. I'm actually thinking about switching the modulator to the two standard lights, i.e. two headlights should mean more visibility than the single bright.

 

Thanks,

 

Scott

[OoPEZoO]

Questions:

 

1) Did you folks replace both the two standard and the single bright H7's, or just one or the other?

 

2) Would a modulator interfere with the HID installation? Do any you have a headlight modulator integrated with a HID light? I have the modulator hooked into the bright bulb. I'm actually thinking about switching the modulator to the two standard lights, i.e. two headlights should mean more visibility than the single bright.

 

Thanks,

 

Scott

 

I'm on a GS, so I only have a single low and single high beam bulb. I only installed an HID setup on the low beam position. I don't want one in the high beam because HID's take a few seconds to warm up. I want my high beam to come on full blast instantly, and that won't happen with HID's. If I was on an RT, I would replace the two low beam bulbs with HID's and leave the high beam as is. Personal preference of course.

 

As to the modulator, no, it is not compatible in any way with a HID setup. It would have to be disconnected and not used if you want to switch to HID's. The only way you could still use it would be to swap the low beams to HID's and leave the modulator on the high beam. That should work OK, if its what you want. There is no way to make a modulator and a HID work on the same bulb.

[Plasterman]

Thanks

 

 

[Plasterman]

Is there any advantage to ordering the 55w vs the 35w kit?

 

 

Tom

[OoPEZoO]

Is there any advantage to ordering the 55w vs the 35w kit?

 

 

Tom

 

Not in my opinion. I don't see any advantages. The 35w kits work great and have a pretty proven track record at this point. I don't personally know anyone running the 55w kits. I know plenty of people running the 35w kits with no issues. The 55w kit might work great, but I wasn't willing to be a guinea pig at the expense of an already finicky electrical system.

 

 

[lkraus]

The RT headlight reflector/lens seems to work very well with a 35W HID conversion, without causing undue glare for oncoming traffic. Although RT can handle the 55W version as far as electrics are concerned, the light output might not be so well controlled with the 55w version.

[Smidsy]

Don't forget your $5 set of DDM BMW valve stem caps to go with that expensive shipping and cheap HIDs:

 

[SWB]

Questions:

 

1) Did you folks replace both the two standard and the single bright H7's, or just one or the other?

 

2) Would a modulator interfere with the HID installation? Do any you have a headlight modulator integrated with a HID light? I have the modulator hooked into the bright bulb. I'm actually thinking about switching the modulator to the two standard lights, i.e. two headlights should mean more visibility than the single bright.

 

Thanks,

 

Scott

 

I'm on a GS, so I only have a single low and single high beam bulb. I only installed an HID setup on the low beam position. I don't want one in the high beam because HID's take a few seconds to warm up. I want my high beam to come on full blast instantly, and that won't happen with HID's. If I was on an RT, I would replace the two low beam bulbs with HID's and leave the high beam as is. Personal preference of course.

 

As to the modulator, no, it is not compatible in any way with a HID setup. It would have to be disconnected and not used if you want to switch to HID's. The only way you could still use it would be to swap the low beams to HID's and leave the modulator on the high beam. That should work OK, if its what you want. There is no way to make a modulator and a HID work on the same bulb.

 

Thanks Keith. I've kind of been waiting for decent quality HID options to come down from the original $600-$1000 prices to something more affordable. Looks like I could swap out the H7's for a pair of HID's on the low beams for under $100, and without too much work. Time to upgrade to HID for the low beams; will leave the modulator and bright lamp as is.

 

Nothing better for a motorcyclist than more light, particularly ..um...er.. guys with older eyes.

[OoPEZoO]

I don't think you will be disappointed.

[Plasterman]

Now you tell me....... To late I aready pulled the trigger on the DDM's.

 

 

 

Don't forget your $5 set of DDM BMW valve stem caps to go with that expensive shipping and cheap HIDs:

 

[Fubar]

Here's my zwei pfenning ...

 

In all of this positive feedback for HIDs I've yet to see anyone directly mention the QUALITY of the beam spread after the conversion (no surprise there, as usually this factor doesn't directly come up in these discussions at all).

Then let me be the first. The quality is phenomenal. There are no dull or bright spots, just a smooth, even distribution of light from left to right, top to bottom. Just more of it.

 

Like several other folks, I run the Osram 65w (incandescent) bulbs.

FWIW, 65W bulbs are illegal here for on-road purposes. 55W for low beams, 60W for high beams, max. Additionally, the extra heat generated by them runs the risk of warping nearby plastics. A small risk, I'm sure, but worth considering.

 

I actually believe that "extra" light on the road in the wrong places can -- counter-intuitively -- make it harder to see *where you want to see*. An example: I don't ever use the stock foglights on cars because they add extra light NEAR the vehicle, scattering extra light *outside* of the area where my eyes are focused (several hundred feet down the road, and mostly directly in front of my vehicle) which then reflects back into my eyes reducing my night vision. Another example would be the often-recommended PIAA 1100x lamps; for me, they appear to "smear" their light all over the road -- again, most of it well outside the typical "focus zone" where you spend most of your time looking while riding, making them ineffective (even counterproductive) for night riding (they are great for conspicuity during the day). Sure, they add extra lumens on the road overall, but the effect is similar to turning up your dashboard display lights -- it's more light in the wrong place.

Since it uses the OEM reflector and is simply a matter of swapping an H7 for an H7 (or whatever your particular bulb is) I cannot fathom how the light distribution would be affected. It's more light, but in the same places. I use them to save power, but more importantly, to see and be seen, with a vast increase in both (subjective , I know).

I also run fog lights, mainly to be seen, and do so in every vehicle I operate that has them. For the same reasons trains run "ditch sweepers", if all your light is pointed directly ahead you're less likely to be seen by someone approaching from well off to the side and thus more likely to be a statistic than a rider.

I've been running them (low beam only) for over 3 years and can not find a single reason not to do so.

[Huzband]

Jack, if you don't want to be distracted by extraneous light out of the focus of the lens, I'll make damn sure I'm not riding behind you.

 

Into the darkness they go...

[Matts_12GS]

Jack, if you don't want to be distracted by extraneous light out of the focus of the lens, I'll make damn sure I'm not riding behind you.

 

Into the darkness they go...

 

I have a feeling he might not like the 4 10w LEDs and my HID behind him...

[cali_beemer]

Im getting excited....just about to install the HID kit... anyone know where i can find the procedure for ajusting the beams? I know they are out of whack. The light is pointed more to the sky right now...most likely becasue Im a heavy rider and I need new shocks for my weight