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Total control "V" position?


CoarsegoldKid

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I was at the Lee Parks talk also. A couple weeks later I saw Kieth Code at Pro Italia. They both expound the same principles for hustling ones bike around the corners. The only limiting factors I see in these race course vs highway tactics is that at the posted speeds for highways, one rarely needs to changes one seat position to negotiate the roads.

If you are riding the pubic highways in the attack mode using all your newly learned tactics the ride becomes an adrenaline rush at supra legal speeds.

 

You don't have to ride fast to have good form.

Getting the body weight on the inside before a corner does not require moving in the seat, simply bending at the waist and towards the corner will do it for street riding.

 

In the end, the goal (for safety) would be to lean the bike as little as possible and to be leaned for as little time as possible to negotiate a given corner. Visually, late apex helps.

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I was at the Lee Parks talk also. A couple weeks later I saw Kieth Code at Pro Italia. They both expound the same principles for hustling ones bike around the corners. The only limiting factors I see in these race course vs highway tactics is that at the posted speeds for highways, one rarely needs to changes one seat position to negotiate the roads.

If you are riding the pubic highways in the attack mode using all your newly learned tactics the ride becomes an adrenaline rush at supra legal speeds.

 

You don't have to ride fast to have good form.

Getting the body weight on the inside before a corner does not require moving in the seat, simply bending at the waist and towards the corner will do it for street riding.

 

In the end, the goal (for safety) would be to lean the bike as little as possible and to be leaned for as little time as possible to negotiate a given corner. Visually, late apex helps.

 

I have done it, have been taught in it, and I understand it, but I do not like it. For me, I believe it is the motorcycle model you are riding. Little more easy on a sport motorcycle to bend at the waist and towards the corner vs. an RT. To me there is to much movement and again too me, could/can/would up set the suspension with all the body movement. Like the poster stated up above, more for track riding and then what you posted fun/fast.

 

Why not slow more in the corner, vs. leaning less?? I have always been the sit up kind of guy. ;) I have posted this more than once. It's all riding techniques that "you" the rider/driver need to learn that works for you.

 

Slow more sit up straight, and ride fast lean less................It's all about the coffee. (you know meeting yours friends at the coffee shop)

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(Slow more sit up straight, and ride fast lean less................It's all about the coffee. (you know meeting yours friends at the coffee shop)

 

Spot on about the coffee shop where one can always find Bernie.

 

Bill

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If anyone is riding to the North Meets South in the Middle event in April and has Parks' book please bring it.

 

I'll bring my copy along when I come up there Joe... If I can remeber... :wave:

 

I like this quote form the book:

"I request that you "try on" the techniques in this book in the same way you might try on a jacket at a store. Remember, just because you try it on, doesn't mean you have to buy it."

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If anyone is riding to the North Meets South in the Middle event in April and has Parks' book please bring it.

 

I'll bring my copy along when I come up there Joe... If I can remeber... :wave:

 

I like this quote form the book:

"I request that you "try on" the techniques in this book in the same way you might try on a jacket at a store. Remember, just because you try it on, doesn't mean you have to buy it."

 

 

 

 

OH PULEEZEEE.....Don't give Corsegold Joe ANY MORE ideas on how to corner faster :rofl:

 

 

 

 

Don J :wave:

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Lone_RT_rider
Please, can I watch.

:wave:

 

Me three!

 

I've been reading this thread with some interest. It sounds like Lee Parks is basically having you set the bike up to be force balanced, or spring loaded in both directions. Once you let loose of the outside bar, the force you create by being on the inside of the bike takes over and springs you into the curve. Sounds like a nice technique for quick turn-ins, though it might take a bit of practice to perfect. I think it might add a bit of complexity of you owned two different styles of bikes (say a GSXR 1000 vs a R1200GS?) where the bar length plays into the leverage you create when loading the outside bar.

 

Shawn

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I have been experimenting with this a little bit lately, and it does give me the feeling that I am "dropping in" to the curve. Does take some thought to set up but makes things a little smoother once I am in the curve.

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It's a technique that takes time to make a habit and I don't do it all of the time, but when I do it feels perfect.

Coming from a straight up to a corner, think of getting your whole body in the position it will be in for the corner, but getting it there while you're still upright. In order to do that, you'll need to apply gradual pressure to the outside bar as you move your torso (without using the handlebars for leverage).

When you reach your turn-in point, release the pressure and the bike falls in and you're headed to your apex. Yes, acquiring the lean angle can feel very quick.

Once the lean angle is set, there should be no pressure on the bars at all.

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It's a technique that takes time to make a habit and I don't do it all of the time, but when I do it feels perfect.

Coming from a straight up to a corner, think of getting your whole body in the position it will be in for the corner, but getting it there while you're still upright. In order to do that, you'll need to apply gradual pressure to the outside bar as you move your torso (without using the handlebars for leverage).

When you reach your turn-in point, release the pressure and the bike falls in and you're headed to your apex. Yes, acquiring the lean angle can feel very quick.

Once the lean angle is set, there should be no pressure on the bars at all.

 

When I do it right, that's exactly how it feels.

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It's a technique that takes time to make a habit and I don't do it all of the time, but when I do it feels perfect.

Coming from a straight up to a corner, think of getting your whole body in the position it will be in for the corner, but getting it there while you're still upright. In order to do that, you'll need to apply gradual pressure to the outside bar as you move your torso (without using the handlebars for leverage).

When you reach your turn-in point, release the pressure and the bike falls in and you're headed to your apex. Yes, acquiring the lean angle can feel very quick.

Once the lean angle is set, there should be no pressure on the bars at all.

 

When I do it right, that's exactly how it feels.

 

It is like power steering. The biggest problem is not to steer into the corner to early. You have to be patient.

Until you body gets used to it, it will put a lot wear and tear on your legs/calfs, especially on roads with lots of curves. But it really makes an RT turn quick.

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Lone_RT_rider
It's a technique that takes time to make a habit and I don't do it all of the time, but when I do it feels perfect.

Coming from a straight up to a corner, think of getting your whole body in the position it will be in for the corner, but getting it there while you're still upright. In order to do that, you'll need to apply gradual pressure to the outside bar as you move your torso (without using the handlebars for leverage).

When you reach your turn-in point, release the pressure and the bike falls in and you're headed to your apex. Yes, acquiring the lean angle can feel very quick.

Once the lean angle is set, there should be no pressure on the bars at all.

 

When I do it right, that's exactly how it feels.

 

It is like power steering. The biggest problem is not to steer into the corner to early. You have to be patient.

Until you body gets used to it, it will put a lot wear and tear on your legs/calfs, especially on roads with lots of curves. But it really makes an RT turn quick.

 

What it might do is make the R1200RT turn in half as quick as the R1100RT. Then it might be a little less iritating, and therefore I might be able to live with it a bit longer. Of course, new shocks might help too. :grin:

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It's a technique that takes time to make a habit and I don't do it all of the time, but when I do it feels perfect.

Coming from a straight up to a corner, think of getting your whole body in the position it will be in for the corner, but getting it there while you're still upright. In order to do that, you'll need to apply gradual pressure to the outside bar as you move your torso (without using the handlebars for leverage).

When you reach your turn-in point, release the pressure and the bike falls in and you're headed to your apex. Yes, acquiring the lean angle can feel very quick.

Once the lean angle is set, there should be no pressure on the bars at all.

 

When I do it right, that's exactly how it feels.

 

Yes, new shocks would help, so you actually hold the line you intended to set :rofl:

 

Instead of new shocks, why don't you just get a GS and be done with it....until the GS needs new shocks :dopeslap:

 

It is like power steering. The biggest problem is not to steer into the corner to early. You have to be patient.

Until you body gets used to it, it will put a lot wear and tear on your legs/calfs, especially on roads with lots of curves. But it really makes an RT turn quick.

 

What it might do is make the R1200RT turn in half as quick as the R1100RT. Then it might be a little less iritating, and therefore I might be able to live with it a bit longer. Of course, new shocks might help too. :grin:

 

Yes, new shocks might help you hold the line you intended to set :rofl:

 

Or, you could get a new GS :dopeslap:

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Or, you could get a new GS :dopeslap:

 

I would, but I can't see though plastic hand guards in the corners. :grin:

 

I thought about this after you mentioned it to me this weekend. It was something i paid attention to all day Saturday and Sunday. If you went out and rode one, I think you would find differently. If you and the bike are set up properly, anytime you are out on the bar that far, you should also have your kneck bulled and be looking through the corner. In that case, the hand guards never raise higher than your chin bar and don't obstruct your vision at all. The only way they would is if you moved your head to stare at the pavement 15ft in front of the bike, which we all know is not where you want to be looking. The longer/sharper the corner is, the farther you move out on the bar, and the result is your neck needs to crane farther to keep your eyes where you want to go.

 

This weekend let me realize that this GS and I are really going to get along. Need some practice time, but this thing is going to be fun

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've taken the course, I have the book. I'm an average rider at best, but he did get me to drag knee that day.

 

The 10 degree mystery:

 

Curve(X) x speed(Y) = lean angle(Z) If rider stays upright in the saddle.

 

Curve(X) x Speed(Y) = lean angle(Z) minus 10 degrees when using the Lee Parks method.

 

The negative 10 degrees you start with when hanging off while pushing against the outside bar to maintane straight line travel is the 10 degrees less lean angle you achive by maintaining that position when you get the bike leaned over.

 

The "V" refers to: draw a line from hand to hand on the bars, that is one leg of the "V". The other leg is the straight line from the outside hand along your arm to chest. Visualize it from a birds eye view.

 

BTW, this thread is living proof that with enough effort, any thread can be turned into a Harley Bashing extravaganza! yeehaw.

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