Stripping out gear box drain plug, how do I get it out?

[Smoky]

Everyone says apply heat.

 

You apply torque, and bust the wrench.

 

With just brute force, something was going to break. Now you have discovered the weak part.

 

Now it's going to get even more interesting.

[KDeline]

Thanks for the insight.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

Dang it now I'm screwed. I broke off the hex in the bolt. $(^%@$#()^$.

 

Did the flange over the crush washer break off with the hex? If so, it might be easier now that the load is off of the threads.

 

Sears sells a set of easy outs:

 

 

Left-handed drill bit on one end, shallow-angle helix extractor on the other end to be used after you've drill the hole for it. Check it out here.

[indy]

Dang it now I'm screwed. I broke off the hex in the bolt. $(^%@$#()^$.

 

Something smells rotten in Demark, this just isn't right.

Somebody screwed something up before you got it.

 

Didja break the tool or the bolt?

 

Indy

[DavidEBSmith]

Time to find somebody who does EDM (electric discharge machining)?

 

The bigger issue at this point is that you have to assume that if you ever do get the thing out, the threads in the tranny case are already or will be hopelessly munged. It's gotta be something stronger than corrosion or Loctite holding the plug in. If the threads are messed up, what do you do? Can you put a Heli-Coil to fit the tranny drain hole? (McMaster-Carr has thread repair inserts up to 36mm)

 

You almost have to start thinking about some alternative plan like drilling and tapping and putting a smaller drain plug through the existing drain plug. If you do that, the tranny will have to come off and be opened up and cleaned out, but you would have to do the same if you EDM or drill out the plug.

 

Here's another question - is the drain plug in the transmission housing or in the transmission housing cover? (See the attached diagram). If it's in the housing cover, it would be relatively easy to replace that. And clean up the tranny while you're in there.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Its in the transmission housing. #1 on your diagram. Item #6 on the attached.

 

At this point, I'd go with the cold chisel. Set the chisel perpendicular to the ground and at about 10 o'clock on the plug. Right at the outside edge. Actually aim your chisel a little inward of perpendicular, say towards 6 o'clock. A couple of sharp raps and it should come right out. The damn thing is only a buck and a half.

 

The heat thing is still a really good idea.

The heat thing is still a really good idea.

The heat thing is still a really good idea.

[big-t]

Ken,check your PMs

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

At this point, I'd go with the cold chisel. Set the chisel perpendicular to the ground and at about 10 o'clock on the plug. Right at the outside edge. Actually aim your chisel a little inward of perpendicular, say towards 6 o'clock.

 

The plug is really buried in the gearbox; access is half the battle in this particular case. I don't think you can get any angle between chisel and plug so as to generate any appreciable torque.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Thanks for the explanation, Mitch.

 

In that case, I'd get me a center punch, a small drill bit, a big drill bit and a drill motor or two. High speed and small drill with grease in the flutes for the pilot hole, after center punch. Big drill bit and slow drill, again with grease in the flutes. Put an easy out to it and get it over with. The only thing you might have to worry about is the magnet, if any, on the drain plug. Tiny chips from the small bit can be flushed out with mineral spirits, big chips will pretty much stay in the grease in the flutes. If needed, you can keep going till the 6mm hex is all gone and then find a tap drill and pipe tap combination and just tap the sucker, again with grease in the flutes.

 

The alternative is just pull the transmission and get it done at a good machine shop.

 

Does this rediculous situation still exist on the 6 speed RT's? Not that the 1100S is any more brilliant, they routed the exhaust header right under the drain plug. Can't even get a wrench in there.

[steveknapp]

I still think if you could get the dirtbag allen key out of there you might still get it out the normal way with some heat and/or an impact.

[bmwmick]

Hit it right in the center with your drift punch. It should release......if you're lucky.

 

Mick

[KDeline]

Another great alternative is to remove the filler bolt, lay the bike on its side and drain what I can. I'm half joking. BTY the tool is in the bolt that is stuck in the hole.

[ChrisNYC]

I must say I don't like how this project is turning out. It sounds like you used proper caution when the bolt didn't come out as it should've ... previous owner musta used super loctite er somethin'. Hope this project doesn't get any bigger ...

 

------------------

Chris (aka Tender Vittles )

Little '77 KZ400 in the Big Apple

Black '99 RT for Everywhere Else, such as ...

[BucksTherapy]

Dang it now I'm screwed. I broke off the hex in the bolt. $(^%@$#()^$.

 

This may seem unorthidox but it has worked for me in the past when I have broken a steel tool off in white metal or aluminium.

 

Take the bike to the local welding shop or anyone you know with a mig welder. Weld a peice of steel rod to the broken off tool. Two things happen when you do this. The plug or bolt is heated up and white metal or aluminiun is eroded just around the tool. Put a pipe wrench or vice grips on the rod you welded to the broken off tool and twist it the minute it cools from red hot. This will normally break the tool free but you might get lucky and have the plug come out.

 

If the plug doesn't come out but the tool does and the plug is aluminium or steel(normally one of these) then weld a rod of like metal directly to the plug and repeat with the pipe wrench.

 

My local welding shop charges me about $10 for this exercise and get about $100 worth of giggles at my expense for showing up with the tool and the plug stuck.

 

I have removed many a nasty broken off bolt this way.

 

PS get a plug to replace the old one before you go and buy or borrow a small fine wire brush to clean up the threads once the old one is out. If you clean it while it is still hot it is easier to clean.

 

Let us know what happens.

[Paul Mihalka]

Welding something to the broken tool or the plug: Problem is the plug is deep inside a recess.

[flatbutt]

Not that the 1100S is any more brilliant, they routed the exhaust header right under the drain plug. Can't even get a wrench in there.

 

Jeez Ed can you just imagine this exercise on the S? We'd need to remove the header and lay on our backs or remove the gearbox!

[KDeline]

Problem solved, for now. I removed the fill plug, laid the bike over on its side. Way over. Way way over. Remove the mirror, saddle bags, put out moving blankets and plastic. I measured what went back in afterwards and I got most of the old stuff out. Now will a arc welder kill my electrics if I try that route? I have not had enough yet!

[ShovelStrokeEd]

You should be OK with the arc welder so long as the ground is connected to the transmission itself or a mounting bolt. You want to keep the current path short and direct.

 

At last, we're gonna get some HEAT in there.

 

BTW, I remember the configuration now, they put the drain plug up inside a cast in "pour spout", ugly.

[KDeline]

That is why I though trying to heat up that whole mess was going to be iffy at best. Of course we all know how the other way went. I will leave this till winter, I just wanted to get that 7 year old oil out. Thanks all!

[Dan Gleebitz]

Does this plug have a magnetic tip .... just wondered if "push comes to shove" and a drill is necessary to get the little bu66er out ... ?