OK, this is REALLY wierd!!

[BerettaRacer]

This is in reference to this thread - https://www.bmwsporttouring.com/topic/109186-bike-cranks-but-no-start/

 

 

OK, so for many years of running boats, some boats required electric fuel pumps, so I'm very familiar with the click.click.click...click........click of an electric fuel pump running quickly at first, building pressure and slowing down to an occasional click to hold a steady set pressure.

 

So, since the day I bought this bike, when turning on the ignition, I always heard the familiar click.click.click...click.........click of the fuel pump building pressure, and similar clicks when shutting off the ignition.

 

Now, in trying to diagnose my "no start" issue, (F**K YOU BMW for refusing to work on older bikes) I have removed and drained the fuel tank, all looked normal, no water whatsoever, and only a few little flecks of dirt.

I've removed the fuel pump from the tank, and externally it looks fine, no cracks or splits in the hose visible.

 

Now this is where it gets wierd!

 

For shits and giggles, I re-connected the GS911 to do a real time scan with no fuel tank or pump.

 

Turning on the ignition, I get the same click.click.click...click........click, that I had always THOUGHT was the fuel pump, coming from somewhere in the intake manifold region, and to make matters even weirder, I'm still showing 85-87 psi fuel pressure!!

 

I tried to bleed off any residual fuel in the quick disconnect line from the tank to see if I could get the click.click to go into runaway mode indicating no suction, but no luck.

 

Also, I re-connected the fuel pump, holding it in my hand to see if I could feel it running, nothing. That was the secondary reason for trying to bleed off some fuel in the fuelline, to see if I could get the pressure to dron low enough to cycle on the fuel pump.

 

Do K bikes have a secondary fuel pump buried under the airbox???

 

What is the clickity clickity by the airbox/intake that sounds like a fuel pump at key on?

 

What the F....??????

 

 

[dirtrider]

On 4/29/2024 at 2:13 PM, BerettaRacer said:

This is in reference to this thread - https://www.bmwsporttouring.com/topic/109186-bike-cranks-but-no-start/

 

 

OK, so for many years of running boats, some boats required electric fuel pumps, so I'm very familiar with the click.click.click...click........click of an electric fuel pump running quickly at first, building pressure and slowing down to an occasional click to hold a steady set pressure.

 

So, since the day I bought this bike, when turning on the ignition, I always heard the familiar click.click.click...click.........click of the fuel pump building pressure, and similar clicks when shutting off the ignition.

 

Now, in trying to diagnose my "no start" issue, (F**K YOU BMW for refusing to work on older bikes) I have removed and drained the fuel tank, all looked normal, no water whatsoever, and only a few little flecks of dirt.

I've removed the fuel pump from the tank, and externally it looks fine, no cracks or splits in the hose visible.

 

Now this is where it gets wierd!

 

For shits and giggles, I re-connected the GS911 to do a real time scan with no fuel tank or pump.

 

Turning on the ignition, I get the same click.click.click...click........click, that I had always THOUGHT was the fuel pump, coming from somewhere in the intake manifold region, and to make matters even weirder, I'm still showing 85-87 psi fuel pressure!!

 

I tried to bleed off any residual fuel in the quick disconnect line from the tank to see if I could get the click.click to go into runaway mode indicating no suction, but no luck.

 

Also, I re-connected the fuel pump, holding it in my hand to see if I could feel it running, nothing. That was the secondary reason for trying to bleed off some fuel in the fuelline, to see if I could get the pressure to dron low enough to cycle on the fuel pump.

 

Do K bikes have a secondary fuel pump buried under the airbox???

 

 

 

What the F....??????

 

 

Afternoon BerettaRacer

 

No secondary fuel pump under the airbox. Most clicker type fuel pumps are low pressure. Your K bike has a high pressure spinning impeller  pump that whirrs when running.

 

Does your clicking match up in frequency to any of the flashing dash lights? 

 

You probably need to check for a fuel injector pulse, if you have that, BUT STILL have 85-87 psi fuel pressure showing then look into the fuel pressure sensor not sensing correctly.   

 

 

 

 

[BerettaRacer]

13 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon BerettaRacer

 

No secondary fuel pump under the airbox. Mosty clicker type fuel pumps are low pressure. Your K bike has a high pressure spinning impeller  pump that whirrs when running.

 

Does your clicking match up in frequency to any of the flashing dash lights? 

 

You probably need to check for a fuel injector pulse, if you have that BUT STILL have 85-87 psi fuel pressure showing then look into the fuel pressure sensor not sensing correctly.   

 

 No on the clicking in time to anything. Just about 5 sec of clicking at key on and again at key off.

 

How would I check injector pulse??

 

If the system saw 85 psi fuel pressure, would the fuel pump remain cycled off??

 

Just holding the fuel pump in my hand I cannot feel anyting. And I ran the bike at least 10 sec on fluild, and no change in any real time readouts on GS911

 

Since the fuel pump assembly is on the bench, can I bypass the fuel pump controller and test run the fuel pump with 12V on the two exposed (brown & red) terminals? I'm guessing the black lead that goes over to the housing is some sort of case gound??

 

[dirtrider]

5 minutes ago, BerettaRacer said:

 No on the clicking in time to anything. Just about 5 sec of clicking at key on and again at key off.

 

How would I check injector pulse??

 

If the system saw 85 psi fuel pressure, would the fuel pump remain cycled off??

 

Just holding the fuel pump in my hand I cannot feel anyting. And I ran the bike at least 10 sec on fluild, and no change in any real time readouts on GS911

 

Afternoon BerettaRacer

 

 No on the clicking in time to anything. Just about 5 sec of clicking at key on and again at key off.-- That sounds familiar but I can't  remember what it is at the moment (If it think of it I will post it here)  

 

How would I check injector pulse?? -- Best way is with a NOID light, or a 12v LED.  (see my last post in the other thread)

 

If the system saw 85 psi fuel pressure, would the fuel pump remain cycled off??-- Most likely as the operating pressure is in the 55 psi range. I looked it up back when I posted in your last thread but didn't write the numbers down.    

[BerettaRacer]

OK

So I'm guessing to access a fuel injector wire harness I have to tear down A LOT more of the bike, as in battery/housing, airbox etc to access anything, 18 gazzillion hoses and wires etc.

[dirtrider]

On 4/29/2024 at 4:05 PM, BerettaRacer said:

OK

So I'm guessing to access a fuel injector wire harness I have to tear down A LOT more of the bike, as in battery/housing, airbox etc to access anything, 18 gazzillion hoses and wires etc.

 Afternoon BerettaRacer

 

If you don't want to dig for the injector harness then there is another way.

 

On top of the fuel pump assembly there is a black finned thing called an FPC (fuel Pump Controller), you can unbolt that then pull it up. Under it is a 2 pin connector that goes directly to the fuel pump.

 

That pump connector has a red & brown wire. You can run (fused) 12v to the red wire & ground the brown wire. That will run the fuel pump.  CAUTION: do not run the pump with no fuel in it for more than nano second or you risk burning the pump up. 

 

Then just jump the pump to (fused 12v)/ Ground  then see if the engine start & run. 

 

With no fuel pressure sensor (fuel system control) then don't run it for long but you can see if it will run. If it does, then your problem is in the fuel supply side of the system.

 

Did I ever mention how much I hate working on older K bikes?   

 

 

[dirtrider]

On 4/29/2024 at 5:10 PM, dirtrider said:

 

Morning   BerettaRacer

 

You might want to ride it a bit before installing an AF-Xied, your low end lean condition could have been an artifact of low fuel pressure if your pressure sensor was reading high before failure. 

[BerettaRacer]

32 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

Did I ever mention how much I hate working on older K bikes?   

 

Before we got her running right a few yrs ago, she would cough, sputter, stall, lurch and generally be an unruly beast and I'd ask myself why I keep her.

 

And then every time I took her to the dealer for a service and spent a mortgage payment on a few little items I'd ask myself why I keep her.

 

And about that time I'd hit second gear, hear the roar of the throttle bodies opening, whaaaaapppp, then click third.

 

The time/space continuum would rip open, the world would go in reverse and I'd smile and go "Oh yeah, THAT'S why I keep her!!"

[dirtrider]

5 minutes ago, BerettaRacer said:

Before we got her running right a few yrs ago, she would cough, sputter, stall, lurch and generally be an unruly beast and I'd ask myself why I keep her.

 

And then every time I took her to the dealer for a service and spent a mortgage payment on a few little items I'd ask myself why I keep her.

 

And then I'd hit second gear, then click third.

 

The time/space continuum ripped open, the world would go in reverse and I'd smile and go "Oh yeah, THAT'S why I keep her!!"

Evening  BerettaRacer

 

That's why I like riding dirt bikes. I can get that same feeling on a dirt or gravel road but I'm only doing 85-90 mph not 150+mph.  

[BerettaRacer]

2 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Evening  BerettaRacer

 

That's why I like riding dirt bikes. I can get that same feeling on a dirt or gravel road but I'm only doing 85-90 mph not 150+mph.  

Back in the 70's I raced the New England circuit for a while on a 250YZ

Accumulated enough points to get my racing license, but some things happened and I stopped.

 

Graduated engineering school in late '83. Took my first few paychecks and bought a 1984 Honda V65 Sabre, the fastest vehicle you could buy, (until '85 when Yamaha V-Max edged it out). Kept the Sabre for 19 1/2 years in mint condition, until she got stolen. And along came "Black Betty" the 08 K12S.

[BerettaRacer]

OK, here's what we know.

Fuel pressure is stuck at 85+ psi, way overpressure.

 

What if...

Fuel pump controller failed in "run" position, over pressured the system and killed the fuel pressure sensor. Now the fuel pump is NOT being told to run by the pressure sensor.

 

More tests tomorrow.

 

Is there a way to bench test the fuel pump controller? I'd hate to put in a new pressure sensor only to be overpressured again by the controller.

[dirtrider]

16 hours ago, BerettaRacer said:

Back in the 70's I raced the New England circuit for a while on a 250YZ

Accumulated enough points to get my racing license, but some things happened and I stopped.

 

Graduated engineering school in late '83. Took my first few paychecks and bought a 1984 Honda V65 Sabre, the fastest vehicle you could buy, (until '85 when Yamaha V-Max edged it out). Kept the Sabre for 19 1/2 years in mint condition, until she got stolen. And along came "Black Betty" the 08 K12S.

Evening  BerettaRacer

 

I had an early 70's 250 YZ, aluminum fuel tank, fuel tank only held on with straps, single ring piston, new ring after every moto & new piston after every weekend.  Just a 4 speed with 1st gear high enough to be 2nd or 3rd on most other bikes. 

 

About the lightest  250 I have ever been on.  

 

It started out as a factory works bike. A friend of mine rode for Yamaha but it was his backup that was not up to full race standards but it was quick for that era. Almost  all the transmission gears were drilled for lightness, lighter frame, special cones & tuned stinger, special DB killer. 

 

It kind of broke my heart but the day I got it I cut the rear shock mounts & laid the rear shocks forward. That took a lot of pogo out of the rear & added travel (us off-roaders were definitely tougher back then).  I also built some fork extenders & added air-assist forks with internal bags (I was just beaming with pride as after that as it had a full 7.5" of front fork travel). Kind of laughable now in the modern long suspension era. 

 

I can still smell the Castor bean oil & later Klotz.

 

I ran that thing so lean for power that it just ate pistons, I had the jug re-hard chromed twice as it was all ports with little cylinder  in the port area so it would wear the exhaust port quickly. (it didn't have a bridged exhaust port) 

 

I turned it into an ice racer so that showed it's weak point as it only had 4 cylinder studs so running at sub 20°f it couldn't keep the jug or cyl head  clamped down tight enough.

 

That was fun bike but I sure wouldn't want to go through all that maintenance/parts replacement/broken trans gears/cracked frame/ dented-leaking fuel tanks/broken spokes thing again at my age now.  

 

I wouldn't mind one more ride on it though.    Ahh, memories/

 

 

[dirtrider]

11 hours ago, BerettaRacer said:

 

Is there a way to bench test the fuel pump controller? I'd hate to put in a new pressure sensor only to be overpressured again by the controller.

Evening 

 

Is there a way to bench test the fuel pump controller? I'd hate to put in a new pressure sensor only to be overpressured again by the controller.-- Not easily as the fueling computer controls it's current output (electronics). 

 

I believe you had a GS-911 on it- Correct? A GS-911 usually shows a failed FPC but not always. 

 

Those FPC's do (did) fail but I believe your 2008 has the later powder coated high fin FPC  & those seldom fail. When they do fail they usually fail OPEN so pump quits. 

 

One place to look is to turn the FPC over, if bottom potting is bubbled, distorted or looks burnt from underneath then it sure could be failed (actually if those are present then it probably is). 

 

 

[BerettaRacer]

17 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Evening  BerettaRacer

 

I had an early 70's 250 YZ, aluminum fuel tank, fuel tank only held on with straps, single ring piston, new ring after every moto & new piston after every weekend.  Just a 4 speed with 1st gear high enough to be 2nd or 3rd on most other bikes. 

 

About the lightest  250 I have ever been on.  

 

It started out as a factory works bike. A friend of mine rode for Yamaha but it was his backup that was not up to full race standards but it was quick for that era. Almost  all the transmission gears were drilled for lightness, lighter frame, special cones & tuned stinger, special DB killer. 

 

It kind of broke my heart but the day I got it I cut the rear shock mounts & laid the rear shocks forward. That took a lot of pogo out of the rear & added travel (us off-roaders were definitely tougher back then).  I also built some fork extenders & added air-assist forks with internal bags (I was just beaming with pride as after that as it had a full 7.5" of front fork travel). Kind of laughable now in the modern long suspension era. 

 

I can still smell the Castor bean oil & later Klotz.

 

I ran that thing so lean for power that it just ate pistons, I had the jug re-hard chromed twice as it was all ports with little cylinder  in the port area so it would wear the exhaust port quickly. (it didn't have a bridged exhaust port) 

 

I turned it into an ice racer so that showed it's weak point as it only had 4 cylinder studs so running at sub 20°f it couldn't keep the jug or cyl head  clamped down tight enough.

 

That was fun bike but I sure wouldn't want to go through all that maintenance/parts replacement/broken trans gears/cracked frame/ dented-leaking fuel tanks/broken spokes thing again at my age now.  

 

I wouldn't mind one more ride on it though.    Ahh, memories/

 

 

 

If I remember correctly my YZ's were '74's (I had two, over 2-3 yrs) First was new in '74.

This was the second one, in '75 or '6 - after I rebuilt the frame, laid down the shocks, and beefed up the swingarm, to compete with the newer monoshocks, and Susuki RM's. Never raced this one, after build some things happened. Bike got parked for many yrs, then eventually sold for next to nothing.

 

Then the V65 Sabre on a North/South cross country, a few yrs before she got stolen.

[BerettaRacer]

OK, fuel pump does run, on the bench, no load, just jumping 12V across the input terminals.

 

Visually the controller looks OK. 

Docs I have show the fuel pump was changed by BMW under the recall in '14, before I owned the bike.

They MAY have changed the entire unit because mine is not powder coated, just bare alu.

 

I'm thinking I should just go ahead an order a fuel pressure sensor and a new gas tank seal for when re-installing pump. Take a chance that the controller is OK.

 

Dirtrider, do you have a guess as to the maximum output pressure of the fuel pump??

In other words, did a runaway pump (failed controller) push out 85 psi and kill the sensor, or did the sensor just die (ethanol ??) and it defaulted to 85 psi in failure mode??

 

[dirtrider]

21 hours ago, BerettaRacer said:

OK, fuel pump does run, on the bench, no load, just jumping 12V across the input terminals.

 

Visually the controller looks OK. 

Docs I have show the fuel pump was changed by BMW under the recall in '14, before I owned the bike.

They MAY have changed the entire unit because mine is not powder coated, just bare alu.

 

I'm thinking I should just go ahead an order a fuel pressure sensor and a new gas tank seal for when re-installing pump. Take a chance that the controller is OK.

 

Dirtrider, do you have a guess as to the maximum output pressure of the fuel pump??

In other words, did a runaway pump (failed controller) push out 85 psi and kill the sensor, or did the sensor just die (ethanol ??) and it defaulted to 85 psi in failure mode??

 

Afternoon BerettaRacer

 

I can't seem to find the dead-head pressure but the operating pressure is 3.8 BAR (about 55psi). It probably could produce 85 psi with good battery voltage. (probably at least 75 psi anyway & 85 psi wouldn't surprise me).

 

If you really have to know, you  have the pump running so put it back in the tank, then power it up with a pressure gauge on the output. 

 

That does seem to have the early silver FPC (those were prone to fail & were superseded to the later black FPC's)

 

Seeing as this is a difficult thing to diagnose without a GS-911 fault code, or a history of repairing this particular issue, then it will probably come down to a guess as to what it is, the pressure sensor or the FPC.  If the pressure sensor is showing 85psi with an empty fuel injector manifold then that would probably be the first to look at. 

 

The big thing with this is to try to turn it into an EDUCATED guess. 

 

Unplug the fuel pressure sensor then see what your (key-on) fuel pressure shows (might just show a fault though).

 

Personally, I would put the tank back together then see if will start & run with a (fused) jumpered fuel pump (you REALLY should carry a fuel pump jumper harness anyhow as that can get you home if an on-road pump electronics issue occurs) as getting a dealer to repair it is a real crap shoot. Don't run it very long as who knows how strong the old fuel hoses & fuel lines are. 

 

Now you understand why the BMW shops don't like to work on older complex motorcycles, some shops probably don't even have tecs that go back that far, & with BMW's lack of system operational function support,  it's as much a guess to an unfamiliar tec as it is to you at the moment. The dealer doesn't want to spend hours tracking & diagnosing unfamiliar old motorcycle gremlins when they can spend minutes making big bucks servicing newer bikes.  

[BerettaRacer]

Electro Moto has the parts in stock.

 

My existing flange seal is questionable at best.

 

A sensor is $300

 

A controller is $200

 

Seal, shipping, tax etc $100

 

So for the additional $200 for the controller, since you say mine is an older version, it may just be good Prevent Maint to install while everything apart.

 

Then while I wait for parts to arrive I can begin to dis-assemble the rest of access to sensor on fuel rail, this should also give me access to injector wiring to noid test.

 

------ 

Thinking, at this point, I may pull out the existing Booster Plug, give myself and the bike a treat and pick up an AF-xied from Boneyard. A little reward. LOL

 

 

[BerettaRacer]

29 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon BerettaRacer

 

Now you understand why the BMW shops don't like to work on older complex motorcycles, some shops probably don't even have tecs that go back that far, & with BMW's lack of system operational function support,  it's as much a guess to an unfamiliar tec as it is to you at the moment. The dealer doesn't want to spend hours tracking & diagnosing unfamiliar old motorcycle gremlins when they can spend minutes making big bucks servicing newer bikes.  

 

Fine

Then BMW should release all the build, diagnostic, computer run info, and access to speciality tools etc to third party vendors, Clymer, Haynes etc so we can correctly do it ourselves.

Half the items on the bike are VIN coded, and right now only BMW can change the VIN codes. And they won't do it.

Even a new ECU off the shelf won't run the bike until it's coded, let alone a used one from eBay etc.

 

[dirtrider]

4 hours ago, BerettaRacer said:

Electro Moto has the parts in stock.

 

My existing flange seal is questionable at best.

 

A sensor is $300

 

A controller is $200

 

Seal, shipping, tax etc $100

 

So for the additional $200 for the controller, since you say mine is an older version, it may just be good Prevent Maint to install while everything apart.

 

Then while I wait for parts to arrive I can begin to dis-assemble the rest of access to sensor on fuel rail, this should also give me access to injector wiring to noid test.

 

------ 

Thinking, at this point, I may pull out the existing Booster Plug, give myself and the bike a treat and pick up an AF-xied from Boneyard. A little reward. LOL

 

 

Evening BerettaRacer

 

So for the additional $200 for the controller, since you say mine is an older version, it may just be good Prevent Maint to install while everything apart.---  My parts book shows that FPC was superseded twice, my book shows the original FPC as p/n-  16147720776 then that was superceded by  p/n- 16148523697, then that was later superseded by p/n- 16148523262. But BMW parts books don't always tell the whole story.

 

Then while I wait for parts to arrive I can begin to dis-assemble the rest of access to sensor on fuel rail, this should also give me access to injector wiring to noid test.-- Personally, I would do the NOID test just to verify the injectors are getting commanded to squirt. If it ran with starting fluid, & the injectors pulse, then your fuel supply side is about all that is remaining. With your pump testing good then it is most likely the pump control side. 

[dirtrider]

3 hours ago, BerettaRacer said:

Half the items on the bike are VIN coded, and right now only BMW can change the VIN codes. And they won't do it.

Even a new ECU off the shelf won't run the bike until it's coded, let alone a used one from eBay etc.

Evening BerettaRacer

 

I don't think that is all on BMW as I think there are some Federal restrictions that effect it as the newer BMW electronic motorcycles store the odometer miles in the fueling computer, the chassis computer, & the instrument cluster (at least the Boxer bikes are that way).

[BerettaRacer]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

Evening BerettaRacer

 

So for the additional $200 for the controller, since you say mine is an older version, it may just be good Prevent Maint to install while everything apart.---  My parts book shows that FPC was superseded twice, my book shows the original FPC as p/n-  16147720776 then that was superceded by  p/n- 16148523697, then that was later superseded by p/n- 16148523262. But BMW parts books don't always tell the whole story.

 

Yes, the Euro Moto lists all three of those part #'s in reference to their part.

For better or worse, theirs is an aftermarket item, by Enduralast

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fpc-776.htm

 

At this point it doesn't mean much, but beginning to remove the air box, I've removed the ram air snorkels exposing the velocity stacks. A spray of gas into each and the bike ran fine for 8-10 seconds.

Still doesn't tell us if injectors are firing, but it makes me feel good that there is no serious damage to engine.

 

 

[9Mary7]

3 hours ago, BerettaRacer said:

an aftermarket item, by Enduralast

I used an Enduralast in a Ducati 907ie restoration 'cause it was the only listing I could find. Worked great with no issues.

[BerettaRacer]

Quick follow up
Tore the bike down and installed the new fuel pressure sender.
As was reccomended by DirtRider I chose to do a noid light test while everything torn down, the bike passed that test, so we are getting a signal to the injectors.
At that point I also re-connected the GS911, and, lo and behold, my fuel pressure is now reading atmospheric, 15 psi.
So it appears BMW/GS911 read the fuel pressure in "Absolute Zero" not "gauge zero", as in I'm reading 15 psi fuel pressue at atmospheric.
So our running fuel pressure, said to be 55 psi, must be absolute, in reality 40 psi gauge.

In the pic you can see the new sender and the noid test light connected to the FI system wiring. Bosch #2 light for future reference.

 

 

[BerettaRacer]

SHE'S ALIVE!!!!
BLACK BETTY LIVES!!!!

Pieced her back together enough to give a test and she fired right up.
We ended up replacing both the fuel pressure sensor and the fuel pump controller.
While it's still torn up and on the work platform I'm going to change the oxygen sensor and add the AF-Xied to get rid of the low end lean condition.

[BerettaRacer]

Project, at first glance into the heart of the beast, looks very daunting.

Take lots of pics, lots of blue tape/sharpie location tags.

Regular references back to the Rep-Rom service manual.

On re-assembly, take it slow and clean / lube all mating surfaces, double check everything.

The special pliers I had to order for the re-useable clamps was essential.

 

 

[dirtrider]

16 minutes ago, BerettaRacer said:

SHE'S ALIVE!!!!
BLACK BETTY LIVES!!!!

Pieced her back together enough to give a test and she fired right up.
We ended up replacing both the fuel pressure sensor and the fuel pump controller.
While it's still torn up and on the work platform I'm going to change the oxygen sensor and add the AF-Xied to get rid of the low end lean condition.

Morning   BerettaRacer

 

You might want to ride it a bit before installing an AF-Xied, your low end lean condition could have been an artifact of low fuel pressure if your pressure sensor was reading high before failure. 

[BerettaRacer]

2 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Morning   BerettaRacer

 

You might want to ride it a bit before installing an AF-Xied, your low end lean condition could have been an artifact of low fuel pressure if your pressure sensor was reading high before failure. 

She's been lean since the day I bought her.

In the early years she was a stall monster.

It's still the stock can, but she's been opened up a bit for better flow, and that adds to the lean condition.

Booster plug helped, but the biggest improvement was doing the "canister-ectomy"

So yesterday, on re-assembly, I removed the booster plug, knowing 100 % I was going with the AF-Xied.

Oh yeah, and somehow, ahem, during re-assembly, the stepper motor was "accidentily" dis-abled, whoops, my bad.

[Dennis Andress]

AF-xied has been a good fix for me.