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'19 1250 RT key FOB warning light, battery. (yeah, again)


wbw6cos

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Greetings, 

I know this subject has been posted a few times , but after 6 different new batteries  I keep getting intermittent warnings on the RID.  Mostly, it is with one key showing, but occasionally at a fuel stop I get a 2nd key illuminated and it won't start or allow the fuel cap to be opened.  I would turn in closer with my pocket that is holding the FOB and it works.   I am hesitant to take it to the only dealer in town and want to see if I can resolve it on my own.  I have considered buying a 2nd key FOB and I am aware of the procedure that it entails.

 

Batteries are tested, new.   Most have 3. - something, or other volts.  Check.

 

Question(s) are:

 

Can the FOB be going out?  

      It stays, dry, in my left pants pocket under riding gear.

 

Can the FOB be tested with GS-911 or dealer computer?

 

 

What about the antenna ring?  Can it be tested?

 

Prior to this issue, I performed a 12k service, which, involved removing tupperware for air filter swap.  Other than that, nothing was done in that area.   

 

The FSM shows the antenna ring R & R, but nothing about testing. 

 

50k miles on the bike.   Used M-F, every other week.   Key FOB stays in house, at least 30 feet away.

Thanks!

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William,

Is it possible that the signal from the fob is not getting through the clothing?  If I understood you correctly, you have the fob in pants pocket then you put riding pants over that.  Just a thought.  

  • Like 2
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Yes, you are correct.  First time in 4 years this has occurred.    The original battery lasted almost 3 years.   

 

Not the battery.  It is either a transmission problem, as you alluded to, or reception  issue.    Heck, during some BMWST riding when this happened, I kept the FOB in my tank bag and would still get warnings that would come and go.  :dontknow:

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After installing an ADV LED low beam in my wife's 2017 RT, she started getting random key fob errors on the dash.  They were so quick, it was hard to catch what error was showing up.

 

Once I figured that out, I put in the halogen bulb back in.  Error went away.

 

Contacted ADV.  They sent a new driver out.  It's been 4 years and never come back.

 

But if you have an LED replacement bulb, that could be causing interference.

  • Like 1
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I thought I was getting low battery errors on my bike, but it turned out to be a key reading errors. Try to move the key to your chest pocket. Or get a stronger battery. After I replaced the battery the last time, the errors disappeared. I don’t think all those batteries are created equally. 

  • Like 1
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Have you tested the batteries you replace with a volt meter? Would be good (and helpful) to know what state it was.

 

The air filter change could  hypothetically effect a connection, making it semi-seated and therefore unreliable. I don't know if the '19 RT has anything in the area or not, but it's worth a check.

 

IIRC the latest software update to the 911 tool includes key programming. If you have access to one, you could check. I can break out the laptop and plug my '21 in to see. Let me know.

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7 hours ago, strataj said:

Could it be interference from a phone or other transmitter?  

 

Cell phone is kept on my right side (opposite side of the bike from FOB) in a pocket on the side of my leg.   I have the Zumo XT in its place on the RT with the adapter and a Spot trace in right hand compartment.  Just receiving items.

 

 

 

5 hours ago, 92Merc said:

After installing an ADV LED low beam in my wife's 2017 RT, she started getting random key fob errors on the dash.  They were so quick, it was hard to catch what error was showing up.

 

Once I figured that out, I put in the halogen bulb back in.  Error went away.

 

Contacted ADV.  They sent a new driver out.  It's been 4 years and never come back.

 

But if you have an LED replacement bulb, that could be causing interference.

 

No LED, although Lowndes keeps harping on the subject with me.  :whistle:   I have the H7 halogen installed, which was done at the beginning of Sept.   Getting pretty proficient at the change out procedure, too.  :D

 

 

 

4 hours ago, Bernie said:

I thought I was getting low battery errors on my bike, but it turned out to be a key reading errors. Try to move the key to your chest pocket. Or get a stronger battery. After I replaced the battery the last time, the errors disappeared. I don’t think all those batteries are created equally. 

 

I may try that.   I do like the lanyard idea.

 

 

 

3 hours ago, Hati said:

Have you tested the batteries you replace with a volt meter? Would be good (and helpful) to know what state it was.

 

The air filter change could  hypothetically effect a connection, making it semi-seated and therefore unreliable. I don't know if the '19 RT has anything in the area or not, but it's worth a check.

 

IIRC the latest software update to the 911 tool includes key programming. If you have access to one, you could check. I can break out the laptop and plug my '21 in to see. Let me know.

 

I just tested the one installed, new, last week and it had 3.06 v.   I have a small collection in the topcase, which comprises Duracell, Energizer, and Publix brand.  I tested all of them and got these results:

3.27 v

3.26 v

3.26 v

3.23 v

3.19 v

 

I have installed the one with 3.27 v.   The test ride will have to wait until Sunday, or maybe tomorrow.  Being at Barber last week caused a delay in weekend household chores fiddling about and some catching up is due.

I will also get out the GS-911 to see what I can do.  I have had it hooked up  a couple of weeks ago to find the fault code that is related, though at the moment, I cannot recall  the exact wording.

 

If I have time this weekend, I am going to access the antenna ring and inspect it.   I will unplug the harness connector and ensure it is clean and tight, but one solution at a time.

 

 

 

I forgot to add that I have a VYSTO 2BUL dash cam installed a month ago.    With another battery swap, I am not going to disconnect it yet.   I want to see if the warning still returns with the new battery.   If it does, then I will remove the dash cam from power and see how that plays out.   

 

 

 

Thanks for all the replies.   I am trying to refrain from having the dealer look at it, for now.  Tomorrow, I will call them to verify if either the transmitter or receiver can be tested on their equipment.  We shall see.

 

 

 

 

Cheers!

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Few thoughts. First of all, even though the batteries are supposed to be 3V, if they read 3V, they're essentially dead. In fact, anything less than 3.10 needs to get replaced. Buy fresh Panasonic batteries; they're the best liked by fobs, for some reason. And make sure they read at least 3.27V. Next, the antenna in under the passenger seat, so the tank bag is NOT a good place to put a fob with a weak battery. These fobs eat batteries, so I'd replace it every year, as preventative maintenance, especially if you use the bike a lot. Hope this helps.

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23 hours ago, wbw6cos said:

Greetings, 

I know this subject has been posted a few times , but after 6 different new batteries  I keep getting intermittent warnings on the RID.  Mostly, it is with one key showing, but occasionally at a fuel stop I get a 2nd key illuminated and it won't start or allow the fuel cap to be opened.  I would turn in closer with my pocket that is holding the FOB and it works.   I am hesitant to take it to the only dealer in town and want to see if I can resolve it on my own.  I have considered buying a 2nd key FOB and I am aware of the procedure that it entails.

 

Batteries are tested, new.   Most have 3. - something, or other volts.  Check.

 

Question(s) are:

 

Can the FOB be going out?  

      It stays, dry, in my left pants pocket under riding gear.

 

Can the FOB be tested with GS-911 or dealer computer?

 

 

What about the antenna ring?  Can it be tested?

 

Prior to this issue, I performed a 12k service, which, involved removing tupperware for air filter swap.  Other than that, nothing was done in that area.   

 

The FSM shows the antenna ring R & R, but nothing about testing. 

 

50k miles on the bike.   Used M-F, every other week.   Key FOB stays in house, at least 30 feet away.

Thanks!

Morning William

 

The battery is probably the easiest place to start your troubleshooting. I know you say you have a bunch but!

 

Those little coin batteries don't like storage in heat so you can keep a spare or 2 on the motorcycle but only use those for emergencies. Buy new name brand from a known source that isn't likely to sell re-packaged knock off's, or real old. (at least the one for your everyday FOB). 

 

As mentioned in the posts above,  open circuit voltage should be well above 3 volts. But open circuit voltage doesn't tell you what you need to know.  You need the "installed" voltage to be (& stay) above 3.0 volts, problem is it is difficult to test with the battery installed. 

 

With the small batteries getting expensive there are a lot of re-packaged cheap batteries being repackaged then sold as name brand.

 

Carry your FOB in your pocket on a warm day then quickly slip it out, remove the battery then measure the voltage. Even better, put a 10K resistor across the battery while measuring the voltage.  

 

 

 

 

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Greetings dirtrider,

 

Thanks for the ideas,   I am going to see if I can slip a thin wire in the FOB with the battery installed so that I can test it.    You got me to thinking that I should also test that same installed voltage both away and then near the bike to see if the voltage drops.   Ignition on, etc.

 

Yeah, the store brand ones are that:  store brand.   As previoulsy mentioned about brands, I did get Panasonic along with Energizer and Duracell (they had highest voltage out of the pack.)  I am sure I am not needing them in the topcase until I head out on a long trip, so into cool storage they go.  Good tip.

 

I will definitely follow the dirtrider course of action and start at one end of the diagnosis spectrum in order to eliminate causes, one at a time.

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I have a 2019 RT with similar issues.  I chalked it up to a combination of weak transmission/reception and electromagnetic interference.  I have a cell phone and a helmet intercom... and I carried my fob in a pants pocket.  I found that moving my fob to a chest pocket solved the problem.  I also have a jacket with a small pocket on the left wrist, and that works great, too.

 

Also, my gas tank lock stopped working last year, and I removed the solenoid-operated locking pin, and now my tank latches and unlatches without fuss, and I have no fault codes. 

  • Like 1
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Thanks Cap!   

 

I managed to test the voltage with the battery installed.  I used a thin helmet soeaker wire to tap the negative side.   It seems to have dropped from 3.27v to 3.25v over night.   :dontknow:

Walking with it installed close to the bike did not yield any drops in voltage.   When I hit the central locking/unlocking buttons, there was nothing noticeable. When I hit the ignition, nothing again, but hitting the starter dropped it down to 3.09v then back up to 3.24 / 3.25v.  

 

I will ride with it like normal and see if anything happens.    If so, then next step will be the interference assessment .   If it still exists, then I will power off the dash cam.  It has wifi for the phone app, but is brutally slow for video downloading.   I usually just pull the micro SD card, which is in the main unit, located under rear seat / tail area.   I may just try and disable le the unit's wifi, but that may not be possible.  We will see.

 

Stay tuned.....if interested. 

 

And thanks for following along, folks.20231014_094127.thumb.jpg.6abef55cdaaf024e2661cb878f66ad4a.jpg

  • Like 1
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Now that you have a known good fob battery, I'd do a simple test to know if you have a bike problem or not: Remove all the electronic crap from your bike, and put the fob by itself in a pocket, and see what happens. That would tell you if you have a bike problem or not. And if yes, I'd suspect the ring first, due not only to the work done on your bike, but because the rings are a lot more prone to failure than the fobs. But it could be either one, of course. Good luck.

  • Thinking 1
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Quote

First time in 4 years this has occurred.

Afternoon wbw6cos

 

Well your installed battery test pretty well eliminates the battery as the cause. 

 

So what has changed AFTER the 4 years of working OK?  This might narrow the diagnostic path a little. 

 

If a new phone just before the problem started then look there. 

 

If the problem started shortly after installing the camera then possibly look at that (or it's installation).  

 

If you bought new riding pants or added things to the pocket that you keep the FOB in then possibly look there. I don't know on the BMW motorcycle but I have seen auto FOB systems act crazy if the buttons are pressed enough times with the engine running. If you think it is possible for the buttons to be pressed while in your pocket or while riding then try another pocket.  

 

 

  • Like 3
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Greetings,

 

It seems like the battery is not the problem.   I left for work with the FOB in the exact pocket that I have always used and within a few hundred feet, the warning light lit up.   It stayed that way all the way to work.  So on the ride home, I placed the FOB in my right chest pocket of my uniform shirt.   No warning light for the entire trip (9.5 miles) home.

 

It is looking more like the dash cam set-up is causing interference.   I will confirm this by placing the FOB back in my left pants pocket and diconnect the dash cam power harness.  We shall see.

 

 

Thanks for reading along and for providing all the tips.   Y'all are super!

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2 hours ago, wbw6cos said:

Greetings,

 

It seems like the battery is not the problem.   I left for work with the FOB in the exact pocket that I have always used and within a few hundred feet, the warning light lit up.   It stayed that way all the way to work.  So on the ride home, I placed the FOB in my right chest pocket of my uniform shirt.   No warning light for the entire trip (9.5 miles) home.

 

It is looking more like the dash cam set-up is causing interference.   I will confirm this by placing the FOB back in my left pants pocket and diconnect the dash cam power harness.  We shall see.

 

 

Thanks for reading along and for providing all the tips.   Y'all are super!

 

Can you turn the wifi off of that dash cam you have?,....give that a go if you can.

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I will try to figure it out.   That was my first consideration.   I have to go through an app on the phone, so there's that.  

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So, another update.   I did the ride into work this a.m. with the FOB in my right chest pocekt and all was good until I pull into the parking lot at work and the warning light came on again.   I disconnected the power to the dash cam for the ride home and no warning light.   Oh yeah, the FOB was back in its original location in my left pants pocket.  I will ride with it like that for a few times to see for sure, but it is looking like interference from the dash cam is the root cause.   I do not have a way to turn off the WiFi connection, which is basically for viewing or downloading the videos on the phone with an app.  I do not use that method anyway; I download them from the micro SD card on my PC.

 

Cheers!

  • Like 2
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2 hours ago, wbw6cos said:

So, another update.   I did the ride into work this a.m. with the FOB in my right chest pocekt and all was good until I pull into the parking lot at work and the warning light came on again.   I disconnected the power to the dash cam for the ride home and no warning light.   Oh yeah, the FOB was back in its original location in my left pants pocket.  I will ride with it like that for a few times to see for sure, but it is looking like interference from the dash cam is the root cause.   I do not have a way to turn off the WiFi connection, which is basically for viewing or downloading the videos on the phone with an app.  I do not use that method anyway; I download them from the micro SD card on my PC.

 

Cheers!

 

You can always still bid on the one I sent ya:grin:

  • Smile 1
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  • 4 weeks later...

Update:  I purchased some RFI/EMI shielding fabric and finally got around to using it to wrap the dash cam DVR.   The WiFi signal is only needed to download video via the app, but I only download anything from the micro SD itself.   There is no reason to have that WiFi signal broadcasting, hence, the fabric wrap. 

 

A short little test ride around the neighborhood yielded postive results:  no key fob warning light on the dash.   Woo hoo!  More testing will happen this week as I will be using the RT this week.   I am hoping this solves the issue and will post more results later in the week.   If this solves the problem then anybody that is experiencing similar issues then I will have plenty of material to offer.

 

Stay tuned.   And thanks for reading.....

 

20231112_150940-1.thumb.jpg.2c6fb686d4fe196d9bfbee1ee4fc786e.jpg

  • Like 2
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@wbw6cos Where did you find/purchase the RFI/EMI shielding fabric? I may be interested in buying some to run a different experiment. I have noted the accuracy of my Zumo XT decreases (from 10 feet or so when the bike is off) to an accuracy of 40 feet or so when the bike is on. My suspicion is the TFT is emitting a signal affecting the GPS. This is more of a curiosity experiment than a real problem.

 

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Greetings @Bill Murray , I bought it on amazon.   I have plenty leftover; it measures 36" x 44" and I only used an 8" x 8" square.   Don't buy anything.  Let me know how much you need and I can bring it with me to Yoder's on Saturday.

  • Like 2
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Just posted on the other one but now here as well.

My battery lasts 1-2 months at most on 2021RT. Voltage is 3.1 when I remove battery and put new one in with 3.27V. I have no extras on the bike except I use the phone I-phone 12Pro until now and 15Pro going forward, not yet tested, that's anothe thread.

So I do not understand why a WiFi emitting device would affect the key battery as indicated above??? The key battery is only used when depressing the locking or turning on ignition through wake up I guess. Maybe the circuitry checks for key presence since it does alert if it goes away, like a passive RFID card I would think it works. 

 

The car fob battery lasts much longer and it should have same use pattern. Even a TV remote battery lasts forever (well 2AAA may have more oomph) 

So real question is whether this is a faulty system, fob or "Ring". Living with it but it is annoying.  So still it only alerts me when battery is low after about 1-2 months of infrequent use. The alert does not go away by moving key closer but it lets me start that way.

 

H

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2 hours ago, bimmers said:

My battery lasts 1-2 months at most on 2021RT. Voltage is 3.1 when I remove battery and put new one in with 3.27V. I have no extras on the bike except I use the phone I-phone 12Pro until now and 15Pro going forward, not yet tested, that's anothe thread.

 

That is weird!!! My '21 needed the fob battery replaced only once so far (bought in May '21) and have done 55k kilometres on it so far.  For a long time I was using an 12 Pro Max inserted upside down and without a cover for the wireless charger to work, but I got fed up with Apple and bought an Android phone 2/3 of the way through that mileage and have been using that since with no issues. A 3.1 volt button cell battery should still work the fob ok. Going under 3 volts is the trouble zone.

 

Something changed in your environment. If you can pinpoint what it was, you will have the reason. Excluding bad fob battery batch.

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Nothing should have changed except updated software on both phone and bike and new front shock installed under warranty. 

I am using the same batteries in all other fobs (three cars with two fobs each, boat remotes etc) and watches etc as well and there they last as normal.

 

Another issue has been the phone getting extremely hot in the charging tray and hardly keeping charge with map running/App. 

 

H

 

 

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My car fob won't work 95% of the time if the fob is in my blue jeans front pocket.  Gym shorts, shirt pocket, jacket pocket, even in the back seat, no problem, new or old batteries.  Does blue denim shield EMR??

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14 hours ago, Lowndes said:

My car fob won't work 95% of the time if the fob is in my blue jeans front pocket.  Gym shorts, shirt pocket, jacket pocket, even in the back seat, no problem, new or old batteries.  Does blue denim shield EMR??

Not for me.  My truck has no problem seeing the fob and the RT doesn't either.  The RT fob works while in the front pocket of my jeans with riding suit. 

  • Plus 1 1
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15 hours ago, bimmers said:

I am using the same batteries in all other fobs

 

So it becomes even more important to work out what changed. Batteries can be ruled out. How about changing your phone for a while? Even if only for the time you use the bike?

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My car fob works in the house, in my pocket, with the car(s) locked in detached garage. Lowndes… you wearing Kryptonite jeans?  Foil lined perhaps?  😀

  • Haha 1
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Ok, so I replaced battery yesterday. This morning leaving for ride and LOW KEY BATTERY WARNING NOT ALL FEATURES AVAILABLE etc.

WTF is going on. Key was sitting in my key basket with all other fobs and bike was in garage 50ft away. 

Measured voltage and it is 3.11. Then I checked one of the old batteries that it had given an alarm with and now it showed 3.22V having sat on its own for a while. 

 

So I guess it became a dealer visit, not that far away 5miles, so that is easy. Do they know anything about this issue, I doubt it so they consult BMW and then I hear what they say.

 

H

  • Sad 1
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  • 2 weeks later...

William, I have this problem occasionally when phone is in the ram mount on the right handle bar charging via a moto power puck. Usually happens when the charging surfaces are not properly aligned. Sure sounds like interference. 

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  • 5 weeks later...

Replaced battery a month ago, only used bile for short warm ups twice in that time. Key sitting in house bike in garage. And now it shows low battery again........... key all on its own just using up the battery. Did not pay dealer a visit yet but have to do that to let them register this issue and then see where from here??

Happy New Year to all

 

H

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  • 1 month later...

Update

battery has been lasting two weeks at a time. Dealer updated software did not find any trace of a problem. They replaced battery in fob, AND IT LASTED ONE WEEK. Bike going in again but since they only have outdoor storage of customer bikes I cannot leave it there............ will see how this moves on otherwise I have to just ride along with a sheet of batteries 

not a happy unit but it doesn't prevent using the bike.

 

h

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I wonder if the dealer would loan you a fob and code it to you bike to see if the fob is the problem

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If fob is away from bike, there's no other explanation other than fob is defective, no? Especially if the bike's battery is fine. Or test the fob by itself, by measuring the voltage of a new battery, install it for a week, and check it again. They don't need the bike for that. If the bike battery doesn't drain, I'd honestly just buy a fob on my dime (NOT from them), so I wouldn't have to deal with that nonsense. Best of luck.

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bimmers

I agree they don't need the bike. BUT they don't want to get a new fob without BMW having authorized it and for that ............

we will see how it pans out but knowing how long it took to get a new shock this would be the same ordeal. And they are so backlogged that who knows what's going on. 
now carrying I think they said 11 brands including ATV, JET SKI, 3 Wheelers and BIKES of all sorts, and probably more and servicing them all, not a good combination for "special" needs on a BMW. Their huge inventory in boxes in parking lot forming an inner yard for customer and other bikes, outdoors uncovered. 
 

I'll let u know how it goes. 
if nothing else I will suggest I keep key in radio wave blocking pouch when not riding. Anyway remote doesn't work from where it is stored normally AND 3 car fobs are there too all retaining power in normal,way. Spare car fobs also stay live so why not this one. I miss my key only connection to bike.....

 

h

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bimmers

Solution was to have bike in for the day, nothing new came up just the alarm that battery was below 50 % and limited functions available. Don't know what it is that is limited, maybe someone knows.

Picked bike up the same evening with key and they had ordered a new key fob as replacement ...... (warranty runs out in April).

I also checked how the stubby spare/emergency key works. Did not take it first but after a while it was recognized and let me start the bike. 

 

So on the fobs, what functions do we have available with it? Unlocking ignition, locking bike and alarming it, what else???? What is limited when battery below 50%? 

 

H

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I'm assuming the dealer knows this one, but just in case they didn't.  Try scrubbing the key-fob battery with an alcohol wipe or cotton ball with rubbing alcohol.  Most of the current button type batteries now come with some kind of "bitter" coating to deter kids from putting them in their mouths.  For some reason this interferes with the voltage for some device.  Apple (for Air tags) and a few other manufacturers of devices that use these type of batteries have put out warnings about the conflict.  Luckily being water soluble it comes off pretty easy.  Just make sure to scrub the sides as well as the top and bottom.

 

I had to do this with mine after Carl W told me about it.  The O.G. battery that came with my key-fob worked for 31k miles over 2 years.  My back up battery I carry in my tank bag said it was low after one day.  I chalked that up to being in my tank bag for 2 years until using it.  Tried a third fresh brand name battery and it lasted a week before saying 50% warning.  Took the battery out and scrubbed it with an alcohol wipe and voila, the same battery now works like a charm now without warnings.

  • Like 7
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VARTA Brand 2032 batteries are said to be the BEST batteries to use in fobs. Some batteries have a bitter coating to mitigate children from eating them. This coating has to be removed with acetone or alcohol before insertion.

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bimmers

Continue to ear battery out in now 1 week. Scrubbing the poles on a brand new battery is not a solution in this case not even here in S Florida. After one week battery is down to still slightly over 3V but bike alarms with "ALL FUNCTIONS NOT AVAILABLE" guess which function is not available (only I found so far) Volume shift for headset from handlebar, wheel, go figure how all of this is built up. Would be interesting to see a flowchart, but rather not deal with it. It also did not keep helmet connected but threw it off and on several times until it just kept it off. This could be a coincidence as I was using a different helmet with the second BMW comm unit attached to it. Had to connect it as a new helmet first and also that was a little odd when doing it, never seemed to complete the connection but it still worked ---- for a while----.

we will see how it all gets sorted out. 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
bimmers

Dealer finally agreed to replace fob and ordered one from BMW under warranty. Got it yesterday and it got programmed and works fine (for now).

Interestingly enough the tech told me this was a common issue!!! They have already replaced at least 5 fobs..................and they dragged their feet and never told me this.

I didn't suffer anything else than unknowing if it I was a real issue or just mine, now I know just before my warranty runs out.

So all in all the saga over for now and I have a new fob with a correctly cut key as well. 

H

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wbw6cos

Thanks for the update.   I am glad it is sorted.  

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Joe Frickin' Friday

For anyone having trouble getting their fuel filler lid to unlock during a fuel stop because of central lock issues (including key fob woes), this trick might save you from having to get your bike towed:

 

 

He's showing how to do maintenance on the lock mechanism, but the video shows that by removing just two screws, you can open the fuel filler lid. 

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Yes the tool is under your seat. Remove the front two screws and open your tank. When I close the lid, i lift the tap and then push the lid down and gently close the tap. Most close the lid and slam on it to lock it. Not a good idea. 
Opps, I forgot that if you have a tank bag ring on your tank, you will need an Allen wrench instead of the stock Torx T-25. 

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On my 2020, I only have a few seconds after turning ignition off to open the tank, which I always do immediately after shutting bike off. If you want to open it later, you have to cycle the ignition again. Maybe newer models got away with that slight inconvenience, and allow to open the gas tank at any time when the key is around, which is the correct logic IMO. By the way, the key antenna is under the seat, so not sure why that guy put it next to the tank. You just need it in your pocket, or the vicinity of the bike.

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