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BMW Noob - Hoping for a little advice on a possible new-to-me RT


Stresspuppy

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New to the board, new to BMW, not new to riding. I've been riding cruiser style bikes off and on for 20 years. Currently have a Honda VTX 1300C.

 

A few questions I'm hoping this group can help me with:

  1. Has anyone made the change from cruiser to sport touring (RT specifically of course), and what was your experience in adjusting? Quite a different seating/riding position. (One of my challenges is that there isn't one anywhere near me - Richmond VA - that I can ride so I'm having to go a bit by people's input unfortunately.)
  2. Found a Premium 2018 with 55k miles. Should I be worried about the miles? It is being sold by a dealer (not a BMW dealer) but sold "as-is" because of the miles. I am a distance from the bike so having to go by pictures and their word. Seem to be reputable but that can be said about many, until they aren't of course. No service history that they have shared.
  3. If maintained, what kind of mileage can be expected out of an '18 RT? 
  4. What are the big service items I'll need to consider given the age?
  5. What things should I expect to have to look into or deal with right away? Tires and brakes seem ok and I'll do an oil change as soon as I get it. What else should I consider, maybe specific to the RT?
  6. Probably not a valid question here, but any reasons NOT to buy and RT?

 

Note: I do most all of the work on my current vehicles and motorcycle so turning a wrench doesn't scare me (always prefer not to have to of course, but can handle should issues arise).

 

I've been combing through as much as I can but always looking for more/different inputs. Anything that can be provided is VERY much appreciated!

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Welcome to the forum.  

 

I have an R 1200 C, which is the BMW version of a cruiser.  It has forward pegs and mostly upright seating (although a little laid back).  I also have an RT ('19) and rotate them weekly.   At first, I would miss the forward pegs after riding the RT as the the footpegs on the RT are mostly middle.   The RT just turned 50 k miles, so yeah, I have a ways to go.  My R 12C has a little over 116 k miles.  As far as what kind of mileage to expect out of an '18 model, I would like to introduce you to my high mileage friend, @Bernie   When he posts his smiles ridden, check out his signature if he doesn't already tell you directly.   Yeah, he rides.

 

If you need good (better) tutelage, then you may want to check out some RT maintenance videos from our Wethead Tech member, @Boxflyer   His mileage on RT's are nothing to sneeze at, either.  Oh yeah, he knows about working on them to keep them running mile after mile.

 

If the price is what you can deal with, then GO FOR IT!   But, that is me.  

 

Cheers!

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I put 140k miles on my 2007 R1200RT (my first BMW), 108 k on my 2011 RT. 125k on my 2014 R1200GS, 93 k on my 2020 1250 GS, and currently have 19k on my 2023 1250 GS.

 

Properly maintained, they are quite capable of high mileage.

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I've ridden cruisers almost exclusively for 40 years. But I rode an RT for 10 days on a European tour, 7 or 8 years ago. It definitely took some getting used to, but I really liked it, and have been considering getting one since then, but alas, I still bleed orange and black. I found the mid pegs ok, and the high seat a bit of a challenge, but loved the power, the light weight, the handling. It is one hell of a machine. It made riding easy. I liked the electronic suspension a lot, one of the most impressive things about the bike. The handling was sharp, the power impressive. The adjustable shield was a nice feature, the weather protection very good. It is a bit of an intimidating bike at first, especially coming off of low, heavy, relatively slow cruisers, but that goes away pretty quickly, just in weight difference alone. It is about 150 pounds lighter than one of my bikes, and 300 pounds less than the other, probably 150 pounds lighter than your VTX. I still think about how much fun it was to ride. My wife liked being a passenger too, a big selling point.

  That is how I ended up here doing research initially, and have just stuck around because it is a good forum with good people, passionate about their bikes and riding. The RT is still on my short list. No GS though, damn those are ugly!

PS, if you get a chance to ride in Europe, take it. Better yet, don't wait for the chance to find you, look in to booking one and do it! You will not be disappointed, so far it's the highlight of my riding career.

Good luck with everything.

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@Hosstage Thanks! That's exactly the type of input and comparison I was hoping for. Most everyone that has an RT loves it but not many can share, or have shared with me, the likes and differences in the two. I'm sure the riding position will be odd at first, but hoping it doesn't take long to adapt. The bike being lighter is definitely a plus. I had my VTX tip over recently (inching my way down a nasty gravel driveway, downhill, after a huge rain and the front tire caught the edge of a run and boop, right over on her side - no damage to me or the bike fortunately). I had to get help getting it up. I'm in my mid-50s and consider myself reasonable in strength, but that thing was a bear. I know the RT isn't "light" but 100-150 lbs is a lot.

 

@wbw6cos and @Dave_in_TX. Those are some serious miles. Makes me almost ashamed of the mere 3300 miles I've done this summer. If I get this RT, I will definitely have to get it (her?) out and stretch its legs a bit more

 

Video by @Boxflyer on tools to carry was nice, and a bit impressive. Obvious he works on stuff a lot. Rattled through what each part of the tool kit was for and even the specific bolts they were used for. 

 

The asking price for the bike is $10,500. Since it has all the options, there is no sales tax, and they will ship it to me - door to door - for free, seems like a no brainer if the miles aren't an issue. With no service history, it's a little bit of an unknown, but I'm not sure if that is enough to stop me from moving forward.

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As far as the weight is concerned, it is the only bike in my riding career that I've dropped. My foot didn't quite touch down cleanly at a stop due to road crown and down we went. I was able to immediately pick it up and be on my way. It did have engine and bag guards which probably made it a bit easier to pop up, not to mention a whole lot less weight to fight than one of the HDs going down.

My knees did take a bit of a beating with the mid mount pegs at first, but got used to it and could stretch out once in a while when rolling along.

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This bike has both engine and bag guards, so that is good to know about popping it back up. Seat height is a slight concern. I think my VTX is something like 28" or thereabout (very low) so going to 32" will be a challenge. And as my inseam is 30", a bit of scooting to the side may be required. After your drop, were you able to adjust to how you put your foot down at lights to avoid dropping it? 

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I've always been pretty conscious about foot placement, but after that I paid even more attention. At times I would just lean more firmly onto one leg flatfooted and hold it up that way, the other leg kind of dangling, rather than trying to tiptoe both sides. Much easier solo than with my wife on the back.

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There is a dealer about an hour away. I think I might take this afternoon off and take a ride up there (oh no, don't make me go for a ride on a low 70s afternoon) and at least sit on one of the new ones. Probably tempting fate as nice as the new ones are but I have no intention of spending anywhere close to that much money on a bike. If I'm cheeky, maybe I'll ask to ride one around the parking lot or something. That should give me a good indication of foot placement and ride height. I'm ready to pull the trigger on this bike, just want to make sure I won't need platform shoes and knee braces. :~)

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That seat has a low and high setting.  Ask the the dealer person to show you how it can be changed under the seat.  I have 30" inseam and can touch with balls of the feet, with a custom seat in low position.  Factory seat is narrower in the front.  Good riding boots and you should be okay.

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Overall the wetheads have been reliable motorcycles. However, after seeing two wetheads with bad cams one high mileage bike and one with 16000 I would really need to hear the bike run in person. I'd also want to pull the head covers and take a look at the cams. 

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1 hour ago, MikeB60 said:

Overall the wetheads have been reliable motorcycles. However, after seeing two wetheads with bad cams one high mileage bike and one with 16000 I would really need to hear the bike run in person. I'd also want to pull the head covers and take a look at the cams. 

I don't really think you can hear a bad cam, until it gets very bad.

Or you maybe able to hear it, if you have another bike as a comparison.

Best to pop the valve covers and have a look.

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Haha, I’m not sure I can help you on the riding position adjustment as I came from the opposite direction. Rode dirt bikes for a long time and particularly was an Observed Trials guy so my first BMW riding impression was “Damn! You mean you get to sit down on these things and take a load off?”

:4315:
Just kidding.   The big thing is that the feet under you upright riding position brings a higher level of control.  Many normally never ride it for other than touring, but if ever get to riding frisky on R model having your feet under your body with the ability to slightly unload your butt in corners with humps and bumps can help isolate your torso and arms from the jolt and stay on line.  I am thinking that with you coming from a cruiser you might find value in adding crash bars and hiway pegs to stretch your legs on longer rides and maybe a little nostalgia.  
 

Other folks around here have a ton of knowledge and experience that will better answer most of your other questions. Happy trails.

 

And welcome to BMWST 

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22 hours ago, Stresspuppy said:

New to the board, new to BMW, not new to riding. I've been riding cruiser style bikes off and on for 20 years. Currently have a Honda VTX 1300C.

 

A few questions I'm hoping this group can help me with:

  1. Has anyone made the change from cruiser to sport touring (RT specifically of course), and what was your experience in adjusting? Quite a different seating/riding position. (One of my challenges is that there isn't one anywhere near me - Richmond VA - that I can ride so I'm having to go a bit by people's input unfortunately.)
  2. Found a Premium 2018 with 55k miles. Should I be worried about the miles? It is being sold by a dealer (not a BMW dealer) but sold "as-is" because of the miles. I am a distance from the bike so having to go by pictures and their word. Seem to be reputable but that can be said about many, until they aren't of course. No service history that they have shared.
  3. If maintained, what kind of mileage can be expected out of an '18 RT? 
  4. What are the big service items I'll need to consider given the age?
  5. What things should I expect to have to look into or deal with right away? Tires and brakes seem ok and I'll do an oil change as soon as I get it. What else should I consider, maybe specific to the RT?
  6. Probably not a valid question here, but any reasons NOT to buy and RT?

 

Note: I do most all of the work on my current vehicles and motorcycle so turning a wrench doesn't scare me (always prefer not to have to of course, but can handle should issues arise).

 

I've been combing through as much as I can but always looking for more/different inputs. Anything that can be provided is VERY much appreciated!

Evening Stresspuppy

 

Going from a cruiser to a BMW sport-touring bike is like switching from Pepsi to beer. You are not going to like it when you first make the switch. It usually takes a while but most seasoned cruiser riders that I have known complain about the seating position, handlebar position, pedal position, leg position when they first make the change. 

 

A number of them made changes to their new sport touring motorcycle to TRY to make it feel like their older cruiser.

 

Most eventually remove the (improvements?) as they adjusted to the sport touring riding position & riding style.

 

Then after owning a sport touring bike for a while would never switch back to cruiser.  (some would but most wouldn't).

 

I have also seen the riding group that they hang with have BIG effect on the cruiser or sport touring thing. If your friends all have cruisers then you will be the outlier on rides & events.  Even the riding roads & areas  could be different.

 

You won't know if you are a sport touring rider unless you get one & give it a try. You won't like it at first but give it a while & you probably won't want to give it up. 

 

 

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Came from a Harley Road Glide with floorboards Sept '22 and the pegs took some getting used to. The advantage is both better control of the motorcycle and better support of your back however. The more aggressive riding stance was reduced somewhat by bringing back the handlebars a bit and lowering the pegs as well. I also upgraded the seat (aftermarket Sargent.) 6'2" frame.

I did install "Highway pads," which put my feet out in the wind floorboard style, the pads just outboard of the cylinder heads, although aside from the occasional knee stretch, I utilize these forward pads less and less.

Will it duplicate the lazy boy recliner I rode for 12 hour days? No. But it's a sport bike with saddlebags and a fairing that gives an astounding experience with a minimum of weight that still puts a smile on my 70 y.o. face, a year and 9,000 miles later. A great addition/upgrade from the Harley, even if I need to stretch my legs a bit more during fuel stops,

You won't regret it.

 

 

footpads.jpeg

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@dirtrider Thanks for the blunt and honest input. No sugar-coating, the way I like it. I'm sure it is going to be different and I'm telling myself over and over - give it a chance, give it a chance.

 

Made the trip to the dealer about 90 minutes away (and back). Beautiful weather here in Virginia and wonderful 100 mile ride. The ride started to drive home that the crunch on the back and butt when hitting bumps is real. I knew/know this, but all the reading and talk about the suspension on the RT definitely has me longing for something a little less harsh. The dealer had their last 2023 heading out the door (didn't even want to look, out of my price range for sure) but they had a 2015 that I sat on, checked seat height (I think it was in the low position), handlebar position. Definitely a different way to sit on a bike, but nothing too radical (says the guy that hasn't ridden one yet) and no issues with getting feet on the ground. However, actually riding it will be the tell. I'll just keep chanting... give it a chance. The cruiser is sticking around, for now, which may be good or bad. 

 

After the journey and getting on the bike, I pulled the trigger and will be getting the 2018 RT. Have to jump through all the hoops and have it shipped here, but now I need to make sure there is room for another in the garage.

 

I think someone should invent/create a desk chair that is the exact position/geometry of the RT so someone could just sit in it (while at work? on the computer at home?) to get used to the position and maybe reduce the "you are not going to like it" factor. :~)

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Thanks @Stiggy. I've seen those and will keep them in mind should I feel like I am getting cramped. What did you do to bring the handlebars back a bit? I did notice sitting on the bike that I was slightly hunched over/forward to hold on to them. I'm an average height with short inseam so I'm not sure about lowering the pegs but time will tell.

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57 minutes ago, Stresspuppy said:

Thanks @Stiggy. I've seen those and will keep them in mind should I feel like I am getting cramped. What did you do to bring the handlebars back a bit? I did notice sitting on the bike that I was slightly hunched over/forward to hold on to them. I'm an average height with short inseam so I'm not sure about lowering the pegs but time will tell.

Mine came with Helibars: (although at $400, I'm glad they were already on the bike.)

 

https://www.helibars.com/comfort/handlebar-risers-adaptors/helibars-for-bmw/helibars-handlebar-riser-for-bmw-r1200rt-lc-hb05106/?setCurrencyId=1&sku=HB05106-With Tool (Recomended)&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1aOpBhCOARIsACXYv-eEB0cpt04h_VRjiW3b-xUYbxhUiJp8qFEy8wPLJxMoQyE_4BN0h48aAgRZEALw_wcB

 

Another kit from Ilium, uses your existing bars and simply raises them back and up to you for a lot less money.

 

https://www.shopbmwmotorcycle.com/products/ilium-works-r1200rt-wc-bar-risers?variant=12734625972283&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2018-10-28&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1aOpBhCOARIsACXYv-dXQKqjrGM6ify_2N-34iE7HV0STqKhNXnPiVQndt4codpgUz3AguoaAhzrEALw_wcB

 

Google R1200RT Risers and you'll get a slew of options, including the Chinese knockoffs.

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15 hours ago, wbw6cos said:

Congrats!!    

 

Bar Backs, plus other farkles

 

 

When it arrives - pictures, or it didn't happen.   :read:

HA HA! I was searching YouTube last night about farkles people had and was going to ask this group about such things. Because no matter what it already has on it, there can always be more, especially because you have to make it your own! So if anyone else has suggestions or places to look, let me know. I haven't driven my wife crazy enough yet just talking about the bike. I need to add in talking about extras to really push her buttons. :money:

 

Seat is something l'll probably want to address once I find out how this one is. I have a Corbin on my current bike and love it but I notice it is one piece where many things are two piece (seemingly to allow easy access to under the front seat). I've seen another that some seem to like (forgetting the name). And I've already started browsing sites to see what's there, but I need to figure out the right sites (well, I need to get the dang bike and figure out what it needs/I want).

 

The next thing I need assistance with is what things should I do when I first get it? Oil change and air filter change are standard. What other things should I plan to look at or look for? Where can I find a list of the maintenance things done through the life of the bike?

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As far as aftermarket seats go, these are the most popular

Russell Day Long, Sargent, Laam, and Corbin. 
 

I’ve had 2 - Russell seats and they work for me. I’ve had 1- Corbin and it worked. I have not tried the other two. 

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Plus one on Laam custom seat.

 

Also, for a list of Farkle ideas and Maintenance lists, go to https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeJAqO8pJpydWQ4z6iNOs9g as I posted before.   Check out the various videos Brad posted on your specific bike.   You will be amazed.   In his maintenance video, he has lists that you can check out.   It would not hurt you to do a basic service (6k) and ride it for another 6k (or whatever you decide) and do a full 12k service.   Check videos prior to going at it.  I do that so I can remember.  :dopeslap:

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6 part video on 12k service. Ouch. I haven't watched it but I will, probably a couple of times before I do anything. And his boards are a fantastic thought. I will definitely use that approach. Then there is the tool kit. He's definitely done it a few times the way he rattles off exactly what each tool is for. Great resources for sure.

 

The bike has a top box, color matched, with a luggage rack on it (not overly fond of that), supplemental mirrors (will have to see if those are needed as I'm not keen on the look - but function over fashion), crash bars for engine and panniers.

 

Once I get it:

  1. Oil and filter change
  2. Check/change the plugs
  3. Check the condition of the coolant - flush if needed
  4. Check the condition of the brake fluid and pads - flush if needed

After that and some riding:

  1. Determine if the bars position is ok; if not, adapters as suggested above
  2. Seat - figure out what is on there and do some research on which to replace with if needed. (I wish there was an easy way to test out seats, they are pretty expensive for trial and error.)
  3. Determine if I should do any drop/adjustment of the pegs and controls
  4. Maybe front lighting (but dang those are expensive)

There may be some general farkles in there, but I don't know enough yet (nor have I ridden the bike) to know what those might be.

 

Not my picture but will have more once it arrives. (I'm hoping there isn't someone on this forum that thinks to themselves "Wow, that's my old bike. He is in for a surprise with the issues it has" but maybe there will be someone that thinks "That's my old bike, it was a great bike and I miss it (but I'm enjoying my '23 1250RT)

BMW R1200RT.jpg

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I would flush and change brake fluid unless it has been done recently. I would also consider changing coolant. Most long life coolant should be changed at least every five years.

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On 10/14/2023 at 11:14 AM, Skywagon said:

As far as aftermarket seats go, these are the most popular

Russell Day Long, Sargent, Laam, and Corbin. 
 

I’ve had 2 - Russell seats and they work for me. I’ve had 1- Corbin and it worked. I have not tried the other two. 

@Skywagon How would you compare the Russell to the Corbin? Corbins tend to be a little more firm, which I have liked on my Honda. But for longer hauls, not sure how that might play out. I'll  need to do some research on the difference of the other brands you mention. Thanks.

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I'm a Russell fan boy, I've had a Russell on five motorcycles, the one on my K1600 has 60000 miles, still works and looks great.  Once I make up my mind on a material and color I'll get on the list for a Russell seat on the new RT. Expensive but worth it.  

 

That said you might want to consider a Sargent.  They typically off a significant discount around Thanksgiving and have a 30 day return program. Sargent seats are well made but they just don't work for me.  I've tried them twice and their return policy is definitely hassle free. 

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I came from the Suzuki Burgman 400 world. The seating position is similar to cruisers. Low seat, feet Forward, handlebar came to me. I then bought a used 2010 R1200RT in 2016.  I replaced the BMW seats with Sargent low seat. I removed the bar backs and peg lowering kit. Just hated the riding position. The bar backs had my hands up too high for good slow speed control in combination with the lowered Sargent seat. My hands were up too high. The peg lowering kit was a nightmare with my short inseam, 30", my calf part of the leg would always bang into the pegs, when I came to a stop, I had to cowboy my legs out to avoid them.

 

IMHO beware what you change to make it feel like a cruiser. I hated the cruiser position the previous owner did.

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47 minutes ago, Etienne Lau said:

I came from the Suzuki Burgman 400 world. The seating position is similar to cruisers. Low seat, feet Forward, handlebar came to me. I then bought a used 2010 R1200RT in 2016.  I replaced the BMW seats with Sargent low seat. I removed the bar backs and peg lowering kit. Just hated the riding position. The bar backs had my hands up too high for good slow speed control in combination with the lowered Sargent seat. My hands were up too high. The peg lowering kit was a nightmare with my short inseam, 30", my calf part of the leg would always bang into the pegs, when I came to a stop, I had to cowboy my legs out to avoid them.

 

IMHO beware what you change to make it feel like a cruiser. I hated the cruiser position the previous owner did.

Same inseam here so was on the balls of my feet touching the ground, though not sure if the seat was set low or high (thinking low). Does the Sargent seat take it lower than stock at low? 

 

Assuming the bike is all stock, I'm going to wait for any mods on handlebar position or feet position. It's going to be enough of a change as it is. My thought, and from what I have read, the lowering pegs were just to let you bend your knee a little more but with a short inseam, my guess is that it isn't quite the same issue that it is for the taller among us. 

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What are the thoughts on leather vs vinyl for the seat? My current Corbin is leather and I love it. As mentioned previously, a bit firm for some, and I haven't been on it for hours at a time, but my brain says leather will mold/conform better over time as it stretches every so slightly. Corbin allows you to configure your own with whatever materials they offer, and Russell seems to give you options as well. Sargent is all vinyl but people like them so it can't be bad.

 

It looks like about $1k for a seat, give or take, which is about what I expected so not stressing that. Just trying to figure out which without sitting on them first. Sargent's return policy does make them a good option. 

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2 hours ago, Stresspuppy said:

Same inseam here so was on the balls of my feet touching the ground, though not sure if the seat was set low or high (thinking low). Does the Sargent seat take it lower than stock at low? 

 

Assuming the bike is all stock, I'm going to wait for any mods on handlebar position or feet position. It's going to be enough of a change as it is. My thought, and from what I have read, the lowering pegs were just to let you bend your knee a little more but with a short inseam, my guess is that it isn't quite the same issue that it is for the taller among us. 

On my 2010, the Sargent makes the seating lower than stock and the front narrower so my feet flat and not on tip toe. The purpose of the lower pegs are to have less knee bend by moving the pegs lower and further forward. There are some riders that have long legs with knee problems and riders that just prefer the cruiser style of pegs forward, hence the install of peg lowering kits. 

 

Added: I guess I am odd-ball compared to what I perceive as the majority of RT riders. I have looked at upgrading/replacing my 2010 with a newer model But nearly every single one I have seen put up for sale have bar risers and peg lower kits....And sorry for the harsh words, I hate the bar risers and peg lower. It's one of the reasons why I got rid of my Suzuki Burgman 400, riding position just irked me. I just like the semi-sport bike riding position the R1200RT/R1250RT offers. 

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I used the stock seat for 101,863 miles on my 18RT and was as comfortable or uncomfortable as on my 2007 RT with a Sargent seat. Try it before you blow a bunch of unnecessary money. 

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30 minutes ago, Bernie said:

I used the stock seat for 101,863 miles on my 18RT and was as comfortable or uncomfortable as on my 2007 RT with a Sargent seat. Try it before you blow a bunch of unnecessary money. 

BMW Motorrad. Seats only a German could love! :18:

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1 hour ago, Bernie said:

I used the stock seat for 101,863 miles on my 18RT and was as comfortable or uncomfortable as on my 2007 RT with a Sargent seat. Try it before you blow a bunch of unnecessary money. 

I'm definitely not running out to buy something until I give it a good ride, but with 54k of someone else's backside on it, there may not be much "molding" left for it to do. :4323:

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If you buy Russell, they will advise leather seat, vinyl sides. I’ve don that twice and liked it. Current seat has about 30k; prior Russell had about 70k. There is no noticeable wear in ride or look. 
 

My one Corbin experience is it was firm and narrower than Russell. It was fine for me. I didn’t like their seat pan and latches. It just never seemed right

 

Russell is wider and softer… not soft, softer than Corbin. It’s prime riding season for me inTexas this time of year. I did 325 miles today and my Russell treated me good. Check EBay as they come up from time to time. Make sure if you buy used what weight the seat was made for. A seat for someone that weighs 250 will be differently made than someone who weights 150

 

Do what Bernie said. Ride it a couple hundred miles before you decide it needs to be replaced

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Welcome to the forum and Beemer world. I copied this from a past thread as it might give you some ideas.  Ride safe.

 

"Welcome to the RT world sbeec. My 2018 is my fourth RT and my sixth BMW since 1971 (I'm an old guy). This 2018 is the same as yours right down to the paint. Everything I added is for convenience and safety so I thought I would share a list of what I installed.

 

Ilium Front and Rear Engine guards. They fit well and are a fine quality product. Cheap insurance to protect an expensive investment.

 

Ilium Highway Pegs. The RT gas tank bulges out so you end up bowlegged and most highway pegs do not work for my physique on the RT. However, the Ilium's work relatively well and I can ride comfortably and longer than with other brands. With my old, tired knees, , just having a way to stretch the knee on a ride is great.

 

Ilium kickstand extender. This little device works great and provides increased stability on a variety of surfaces. It is a good fit.

 

Air Hawk Saddle R Cruiser. Many complain about the BMW seats and replace them. I never had a problem with them, even after six 500 mile days to Alaska. I was using a product called Alaska Leather on my previous bike and liked it. The Air Hawk works well on this model. My last three RT's all canted me too far forward on saddle putting unnecessary pressure on my crotch. I found various ways to lift the front of the saddle and there are threads about this on the forum. I'm going to try a 1 inch wooden dowel to replace the rubber bumpers and see how that works out.  (Now have a RDL and loving it)

 

MachineArt Moto Avant Front Fender Extender. It keeps the front engine and frame less caked with mud and  road crap.

 

Quiet Ride Windshield, I was a big fan of the Cee Bailey but they are no longer making motorcycle windshields. My 1200RT came with a smaller windshield which was not comfortable for my riding needs. I put on the normal sized windshield they recommended from Quiet Ride and I'm very pleased with it.

 

I'm running Denali 4 lights on the engine guards and they light up the bike day and night. I transferred these from my 2012 and believe that having them on all the time has been a deterrent to cars doing dumb stuff like switching to my lane or pulling out from intersections and such. They see these big time lights.

 

Added an Admore Rear LED Bar which fits great on rear fender. My riding buddy ways that they a really show up when turning or braking.

 

I put a Ram Mount on my handlebar next the throttle and below the brake reservoir and a ram plate and elastic band for my Garmin GPS. I can transfer the GPS from my car to the bike which works out well. It plugs into the power outlet on the right side of the fairing.

 

Tech Spec Tank Traction Grips are nice on the corners and the center strip protects the tank from jacket and zipper wear.

 

Givi V47 Monokey Top Case. I like their product. You would need the GIVI SRA 5113 Aluminum Top Case Rack to install it.

 

Motoreflective decals for side and top bags. Fine quality product and added safety feature. 

 

My dealer had a barrel of foam handle bar grips that fit over the stock grips. Much more comfortable for me.

 

I like tank bags but the handlebar control configuration on the RT calls for careful shopping as you don't want to trigger buttons when turning handlebars or create turning radius interference. I ended up with a smaller tank bag than I am used to but it works just fine. SW-Motech EVO City Bag with a Quick Lock EVO Tank Ring. Easy on and off for filling tank and stable mount. Added their map pocket. Pricey but worth it)

 

I have Kathy's saddle bag luggage bags from an older model that work fine for these saddle bags. Makes it easy when stopping for the night in a motel.

 

ROK seat straps have come in hand for duffle bag when I'm camping. 

 

Plastic Headlight protector. I would not want to replace my expensive headlight lens. 

 

There is no end to the FARKLES we can add. We all have our preferences and needs. I like what I have added but as my father used to say, "to each their own."

 

Hope you enjoy your new ride.

 

MichiganBob

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I have removed a lot of the extras, I had installed on my 2018 RT and will offer them for sale in the next few days.

I used the BMW tank bag for very successful, I also have a Werks wind shield. Then I have a Aeroflow head light guard.

And some ClearWater LED driving lights with the fog light brackets. A fender extender by MachineArt Moto is also available. Plus I am sure there are some other items, like a PIAA horn and a RCU Shelf to mount above the GPS for your radar detector or heater control for your electric jacket and gloves. All these items have been throughly tested and in working conditions. :)

Unfortunately the seat had to be turned in with the bike as I didn’t have a replacement for it. It was just getting comfortable after 101,000 miles. 

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43 minutes ago, MichiganBob said:

Welcome to the forum and Beemer world. I copied this from a past thread as it might give you some ideas.  Ride safe.

 

That's great info, thanks! And as you state at the end, I am finding there is no end to the available Farkles, but there is an end to the money to be spent. 

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I have a Moto Guzzi Eldorado now, used to have a R1200C, and have also had two Honda V65 Magnas:  I enjoy cruisers, but I would not hesitate to choose my RT for any sort of distance ride.  I currently have a '16 R1200RT, which replaced a '00 R1100RT.  The comfort factor in every sense of the word (for me) does not compare.

 

Honestly, I can't imagine not having an RT in my garage.  The cruisers I could live without, but the RT is as close to PERFECT as I can imagine.  Note that I have no interest in off-roading...

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Looks like I may be flying to the bike (NH) and riding it home (VA) Th/F/S. Has anyone bought a bike/vehicle out of state and titled it in your home state, riding back home? With not getting the title until you get to the purchasing state? 

 

NH has a 20 day temp tag but it looks like it is only for NH residents. I don't think VA will do tags of any sort without a title in hand. I guess I could always ride home with no plates, but riding 500 miles with no plates may be tempting fate. I could purchase and have them overnight the title to me, but I'd prefer to put my eyes/hands on the bike before I hand over the money.

 

It's always something to do with paperwork and red tape...

 

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Would the previous owner let you ride it home on his plates, returning them once you get to the house?

A bill of sale in your pocket along with a signed off title on a motorcycle that (still) matches the plates its running shouldn't draw any attention.

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Buying from a dealer but I'm going to title it on my own when I get back to Virginia. Just re-read the NH DMV info and it looks like they do offer 20 day temp tags to non-residents so I'll give that a go. But having the bill of sale and title with me should help explain things to any officers should I not be able to get plates.

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Also have proof of insurance with you. People buy out of state vehicles all the time, you'll be fine. 

Before you get there to pick it up, try to get familiar with the handlebar controls by looking them up and learn their functions. Take your time once on the bike to work them so you aren't fighting to operate them once underway. There is a big learning curve compared to simple cruiser controls. If you've not had cruise control on previous bikes, you'll really like it, make sure you know how to use it before setting out. Drive modes can be changed once underway, but certain suspension load settings cannot, at least from what I remember.

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30 minutes ago, 9Mary7 said:

The temp tag and a bill of sale from the dealer will be fine.:thumbsup:

 

It looks like NH does to a 20 day temp tag for out of state. It's only $10 so I'll probably do that for peace of mind. But if that doesn't work out for some reason, sounds like I'll be covered.

 

 

8 minutes ago, Hosstage said:

Also have proof of insurance with you. People buy out of state vehicles all the time, you'll be fine. 

Before you get there to pick it up, try to get familiar with the handlebar controls by looking them up and learn their functions. Take your time once on the bike to work them so you aren't fighting to operate them once underway. Their is a big learning curve compared to simple cruiser controls. If you've not had cruise control on previous bikes, you'll really like it, make sure you know how to use it before setting out. Drive modes can be changed once underway, but certain suspension load settings cannot, at least from what I remember.

 

Great point, thanks. I have set aside a 1-2 hours of just tinkering and riding around time to try and get familiar with things before I jump on the highway but I'll do some reading prior. The one thing I haven't figure out yet is where to put my phone that I use nav on. I have a mount but without much space on the bars, I'll have to see. There are some aftermarket mirrors on it so I may take one/both of those off in the hopes there is enough room for my mount. I eventually want to put something where the nav goes but I'll have to figure that out.

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Stresspuppy,

where in VA are yo located?  I live in  Norther NC  I too have a 2018 RT

I have a few seats for my bike, so far  the Russell daylong has been my favorite

 

 

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I've bought a bunch of vehicles out of state.  Whith every vehicle ive bought the dealer has to collect sales tax (they will send it to your home state DMV) and have always issued me a temp tag. Bought my 2011 RT in NH and that's how it worked for that transaction. 

 

This bike dosent have traditional handlebars and if your phone mount is not designed for a RT it's not going to work. Bunch of different options Google is your friend. Congrats on the new bike.

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2 hours ago, Scooter01 said:

Stresspuppy,

where in VA are yo located?  I live in  Norther NC  I too have a 2018 RT

I have a few seats for my bike, so far  the Russell daylong has been my favorite

 

 

 

@Scooter01 - I'm in Richmond. From what I have been researching, Russell does seem like a really good option. I'm not sure what seat is on it but I'll be putting about 500 miles on it so I should know for sure if it needs a new one.

 

 

2 hours ago, MikeB60 said:

I've bought a bunch of vehicles out of state.  Whith every vehicle ive bought the dealer has to collect sales tax (they will send it to your home state DMV) and have always issued me a temp tag. Bought my 2011 RT in NH and that's how it worked for that transaction. 

 

This bike dosent have traditional handlebars and if your phone mount is not designed for a RT it's not going to work. Bunch of different options Google is your friend. Congrats on the new bike.

 

@MikeB60 - My plan, should it work out, is to go to the NH DMV and get a 20 day temporary tag for $10. Then back in Virginia I'll take the title to the DMV and pay the taxes and such there. But I'm going to talk to the place shortly and see how they handle it.

 

 

I've definitely been Googling and Amazon'ing. My plan is to get an extender for handlebar that goes towards the inside of the handlebars and put my mount there but I couldn't get it here in time:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09C1KFXZM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pd_rd_i=&pd_rd_i=B09C1KFXZMp13NParams&s=automotive&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM

 

The bike has some extra mirrors on it and it looks like there is room to remove one and put my mount there. Not sure how the person got that space because from what I know, and what you state, there shouldn't be room there. I'm using a Quad Lock and want to stay with that so if the above doesn't work, I'll figure something else out. What I'd really like to do is have it in the GPS Nav spot but vertical instead of horizontal. There is a mount to have it horizontal and for the $35 on Amazon, I might try it anyway. I don't like looking down for the GPS stuff if I have the choice. Is that way on my current bike and while not terrible, not always the best.

Screenshot 2023-10-16 at 11.37.43 AM.png

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