HELP - My R1150RT Stored for 5 years - Need Advice to Bring Back To Life

March 24, 2023

Long Story Short I rebuilt the in tank pump and lines which were shot 5 yrs ago (2004 R1150RT). Got it running naked. Drove it a little. For some reason after getting the fairings back on it would not start. DANG. I tried to get it started but the battery was dead and I was moving. I moved bike on trailer to new home. It has sat for years. Hummm.

It has been sitting with a full tank (now old gas) and don't know if that fuel has ethanol. I always used primum. I am afraid it toasted my rubber in the tank?
I charged the AMG Odyssey PC680 and even jumped it to car. It cranks but only a few turns, then starter cuts out. I ordered a new battery.
However I was able to check the spark and it getting spark.
It has been a long time since I rode it last. BRAKE FAIL is flashing?
It was not starting last time I tried to start it .

My plan:

Replace battery

Syphon old gas out and put fresh in.

Check it is getting fuel (need help here).

I am just getting started on getting the bike running. Appreciate any suggestions.

March 24, 2023

Definitely a new battery. Make sure it is fully charged before install.

Before you try starting it again, get rid of the old fuel. Pumping old fuel thru the system just gums up the works. It might not even burn, or burn well enough. Get the old fuel out, but don't add any new until Dirt Rider joins in and gets you proper info.

March 24, 2023

8 hours ago, gmcjetpilot said:

Long Story Short I rebuilt the in tank pump and lines which were shot 5 yrs ago. Got it running naked. Drove it a little. For some reason after getting the fairing on it would not start. DANG. I tried to get it started but the battery was dead and I was moving. I moved bike on trailer to new home. It has sat for years. Hummm.

It has been sitting with a full tank (now old gas) and don't know if that fuel has ethanol. I always used primum. I am afraid it toasted my rubber in the tank?

I charged the AMG Odyssey PC680 and even jumped it to car. It cranks but only a few turns, then starter cuts out. I ordered a new battery.

However I was able to check the spark and it getting spark.

It has been a long time since I rode it last. BRAKE FAIL is flashing?

It was not starting last time I tried to start it .

My plan:

Replace battery

Syphon old gas out and put fresh in.

Check it is getting fuel (need help here).

I am just getting started on getting the bike running. Appreciate any suggestions.

Moring

Definitely start with Hosstage's suggestion of___

"Definitely a new battery. Make sure it is fully charged before install.

Before you try starting it again, get rid of the old fuel".

Maybe put a little Techron concentrate in with the new gasoline.

Then cycle the key on & off a few times giving it about 30 seconds between the cycles. LISTEN for the fuel pump to run for about 2-3 seconds at key-on. If it doesn't then you will have to find the reason for that (stuck/gummed up fuel pump, or other fuel system issues)

If you hear the pump run at key-on then try starting the engine (hold the twist grip at about 1/8 open when you try starting.

If still no start then you will have to check for fuel flow & injector squirt.

The best place to check for fuel flow is out of the fuel return hose coming from the rear of motorcycle (on your 1150 you will have to hold the quick disconnect inner check valve open to see ay fuel flow). You need to see some fuel flowing out of the return hose with a pencil sized stream indicating good pump output & proper pressure at enough flow.

Also check your spark plugs as those could be fouled from trying to start it with the old fuel, plus sitting for that long the lower plugs are probably oil fouled. (Probably crank it bit on the old plugs just to purge the old fuel in the system then replace both the upper & lower spark plugs).

Also__ after you install the new battery - Do a new TPS re-learn__

(with the choke OFF)

*Remove fuse #5 for about 5 minutes, then re-install the fuse.

Then

*Switch on the ignition switch. (do not start engine)

Then

*Without starting the engine, fully open & close the throttle twice so that
the Fueling Computer can register the throttle-valve position.

Then

*Switch off the ignition.

That's it, that re-teaches the TPS where closed & open throttle is.

March 24, 2023

Thank you Dirtrider and Hosstage. Got it. Lots of work to do... ordering battery. I was going to get another Odyssey PC680. I think the quality has gone down as others found newer ones don't last as long as the original ones. Speculation but I am willing to try another brand AMG battery. Got the Full Throttle FT230, $137 is a good price. A Odyssey is $165, both not including TAX. I got free shipping on the FT230, which is identical size and has reported specs as good or slightly better than PC680. I think the XS Power D680 is good,, but Full Throttle had a lot more documentation. The XS Power specs were not consistent from one seller to another and optimistic. Who knows it could be better. Anyone use these batteries Full Throttle or XS Power?

There is the XEARTH Lithium ETX680 for $379. I am not sure the BMW's charging system is up to it, and I would need to buy a lithium battery charger. For 260% less I'll stick with AGM.

OPINIONS>

PS HAVING trouble getting the end sparkplug connector / coil off (two plug head, bottom one seemed OK but due for change). I bought bike used and never changed plugs. They were BOSH YR6LDE plugs and could likely be original. I have the plastic tool in the bag to remove the tip plug boot. Seems like it is stuck. I don't want to break it or mangle it. I am guessing a new one is not cheap. TIPS TRICKS?

Speaking of spark plugs the YR6LDE's are $20 to $35 each or not available. May be I will just clean and gap these. They look OK. Any suggestions. I am sorry not paying $100 to $140 for 4 plugs. Nope... my cheapskate in me will not allow it. Ha ha.

March 24, 2023

Found this cross reference sheet, if it helps.

https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/BOSCH_PN/YR6LDE

March 24, 2023

6 hours ago, gmcjetpilot said:

PS HAVING trouble getting the end sparkplug connector / coil off (two plug head, bottom one seemed OK but due for change). I bought bike used and never changed plugs. They were BOSH YR6LDE plugs and could likely be original. I have the plastic tool in the bag to remove the tip plug boot. Seems like it is stuck. I don't want to break it or mangle it. I am guessing a new one is not cheap. TIPS TRICKS?

Evening gmcjetpilot

On the upper coil removal, you are correct in being cautious removing those upper coils. If they are stuck you can easily ruin the coil rubber boots.

You can try rotating the coils slightly in both directions to try & break the boots loose from the plug porcelain. Use caution & an educated feel to only move them a little. I really don't have a do or don't as it is just an educated feel for how much pull is OK & how much pull is too much.

Personally I don't use that darn factory plastic removal tool as that thing is very abrupt & difficult to modulate so it is difficult to break the coils loose s-l-o-w-l-y & smoothly.

I put a little padding (cardboard or a bent piece of old credit card) on the edges of the valve cover coil pocket then use 2 flat blade screwdrivers in the notches on the coil (or you can just wrap the screwdriver with tape where it contacts the valve cover) . Using the padded edges of the coil pocket as a fulcrum I slowly & evenly pry the coils loose from the spark plug.

Try a little prying & if they don't move then stop, then try rotating a little, then try prying again. Slow & easy beats the heck out of fast, abrupt, & broken boot.

March 24, 2023

Thanks everyone.... I got the primary and secondary plugs out and per my CLYMER manual they are per spec YR7LDE's in secondary (lower) and NGK BKR7EKC's primary. That is what I am buying. The plugs were worn but looked good.,

The old battery is so bad it won't hold a charge and making the charger give fail light. I don't want to mess with low voltage. While I wait for Battery I'll drain tank and check the valve rocker gap. Excited about getting Fritz on the road again. Yes I named my Bike.... ha ha.

PS just drained about 5 gal of gas, I guess that is a good thing it was full. I suspect I will have to take tank off again... I need to service the ABS. Love the Germans. They make everything so easy to access and work on. ha ha.

March 25, 2023

OK when so listening for FUEL PUMP. I hear it for only a half a second. It is short whine like a motor pump. Is that the pump. It turns on and then off very quickly?

Bike Naked
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DA4e5VYKsGRv8pM47

March 26, 2023

11 hours ago, gmcjetpilot said:

OK when so listening for FUEL PUMP. I hear it for only a half a second. It is short whine like a motor pump. Is that the pump. It turns on and then off very quickly?

Bike Naked
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DA4e5VYKsGRv8pM47

Morning gmcjetpilot

Probably is the pump as the pump only runs for a couple of seconds at key-on. Then doesn't run again until the engine is cranking or you turn the key-off, then wait a bit, then turn the key-on again.

March 29, 2023

OK Valve Adjustment

I checked the valves

RIGHT: side both EX and INTK were TIGHT and PAIR even. Bike is cool 68F ambient temps. I used 0.012" EX and 0.006" INTK also tight but can get feelers in.

LEFT: side the EX is tight. INTK I can get 0.006" feeler to go in but the other in the pair no good.

QUSTION is it better to be on tight side of spec gap or looser??? ALSO how to you align the timing mark? 0T _ Hash mark middle of hole?

I am missing the timing port cover. Should I replace it... Anyone ln know part number?

R1150RT 02/00-02/06

Manufacturer #: 11 11 1 341 418 <<<<<

March 30, 2023

12 hours ago, gmcjetpilot said:

OK Valve Adjustment

I checked the valves

RIGHT: side both EX and INTK were TIGHT and PAIR even. Bike is cool 68F ambient temps. I used 0.012" EX and 0.006" INTK also tight but can get feelers in.

LEFT: side the EX is tight. INTK I can get 0.006" feeler to go in but the other in the pair no good.

QUSTION is it better to be on tight side of spec gap or looser??? ALSO how to you align the timing mark? 0T _ Hash mark middle of hole?

I am missing the timing port cover. Should I replace it... Anyone ln know part number?

R1150RT 02/00-02/06

Manufacturer #: 11 11 1 341 418 <<<<<

Morning gmcjetpilot

The ideal is to set them to specs .012 ex & .006 int, then run them until next service then check again. After a few checks you will know if they stay put or if the lash changes and in what direction. After the 1150 engine gets some miles on it, & if ridden normally, the 1150 boxer usually doesn't move much.

Personally, I ride pretty hard (exhaust valves run pretty darn hot) so set my 1150 & 1200 exhaust valves to .013" cold. This is based on my experience with the 1200RT as there was a BMW service bulletin to set the 1200 LEO (RT-P) to .35mm (.0138"). That setting has worked great on my personal 1200RT so I also use that on my 1150 & it works good there also.

I sill set my intakes (both 1150 & 1200) to .006"___ .005" slides in very easily & .007" is a very tight fit. I actually set them with a .007" feeler set to a tight drag, then check with a.006" to "just" slide in smoothly, then a final quick check with a .005" & that should slide in with no drag at all.

On the older (ie higher mile BMW boxer engines) I will usually rotate the elephants feet about 1/3 turn then recheck lash, then rotate another 1/3 rotation & recheck lash again. There can be tight & loose spots so if I find a tighter spot I usually adjust them at the tight spot.

I go back into the pre-hydraulic lifter days so I still kind of live by the old saying; If you can hear them then they are not burning.

Mechanical lifter cams have a somewhat long take-up ramp on the cam lobes to allow the cam to smoothly take the valve lash out just prior to the actual valve lifting off it's seat. If the valve lash is set too tight then the valve actually starts (slightly) opening on the take-up ramp (therefore leaking under hot exhaust pressure) so this is definitely not a good thing, plus the exhaust valve is off it's seat longer with a lot of exhaust heat present so the valve cooling is degraded.

On the other side, if the valves are set with too much lash then the take-up ramp can't get all the lash taken out before the aggressive part of the cam lobe hits the lifter so the valve train then gets a very aggressive hit as the valve is abruptly opened.

I never use the timing hole flywheel marks, personally I just remove an upper spark plug then use a pencil, chopstick, or soda straw slid it to contact the piston. With transmission in high gear I just use the rear wheel to bump the engine until the pencil (whatever) shows the piston it at top of travel. It doesn't have to be exact as the valves are closed all the way from start of compression stroke to exhaust valve opening. Something showing top of piston all the way out is plenty close enough. Some just use the stamped arrows on the cam sprockets as a TDC indicator.

On the timing hole plug, you should cover the hole with something, piece of tape or the correct plug. The plug part number is__ timing hole plug PN/ 11111341418

March 30, 2023

Thank You dirtrider. NO FUEL PUMP..... I am still waiting for battery but I used jumpers from car. There is a short sound like a pump but pretty sure it is ABS for a fraction of a second. There is no fuel pump for 1 or 2 second fuel pump. What to check first? I took a quick look at the FUSES. But I will double check again. I have a Clymer manual.

Valves set. I adjusted all of them. I have two sets of feelers gauges. There is a slight difference between them. I took my time and feel good about the valve lash/gap.

Replaced plugs (using anti seize). Added 1.5 gal of fresh gas. At this point I might just take tank off and have a look.

March 30, 2023

12 minutes ago, gmcjetpilot said:

Thank You dirtrider. NO FUEL PUMP..... I am still waiting for battery but I used jumpers from car. There is a short sound like a pump but pretty sure it is ABS for a fraction of a second. There is no fuel pump for 1 or 2 second fuel pump. What to check first? I took a quick look at the FUSES. But I will double check again. I have a Clymer manual.

Valves set. I adjusted all of them. I have two sets of feelers gauges. There is a slight difference between them. I took my time and feel good about the valve lash/gap.

Replaced plugs (using anti seize). Added 1.5 gal of fresh gas. At this point I might just take tank off and have a look.

Evening gmcjetpilot

Do you have a 12v test light or a small DC voltmeter that will read 20v?

If you have either one then hook the test light or the voltmeter between a clean ground connection & the green wire going to either fuel injector.

Then just turn the key on, if your fuel pump circuit is OK then the test light should light for about 2 seconds, or the voltmeter should show 12v for about 2seconds.

If you get the 2 seconds of power on the injector green wire but don't hear the pump run then you will probably have to remove the pump for look-see.

If you don't have the 2 seconds of 12v on the injector green wire then post back here & we will help you find the root of that issue.

March 31, 2023

6 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Evening gmcjetpilot

Do you have a 12v test light or a small DC voltmeter that will read 20v?

Ha ha I have 5 Multimeters. Yes I have a problem. I will do it. Thank you sir. If I am getting 12v at the fuel injector and no pump I will take tank off and pull the pump assembly out and look. Stay tuned. Thank you.

No 12V at fuel injector, with key on (panel lit up) and RELAY(S) CLICKIING.

10A #6 Fuse was blown. Replaced it. It blew after I cycled the key a few times while checking relays, then POP.

I checked the two clicking relays, one yellow one blue, one is normally open the other normally closed. They seem to function.

March 31, 2023

That's not what DR mentioned as the next step if no voltage.

March 31, 2023

3 hours ago, Hosstage said:

That's not what DR mentioned as the next step if no voltage.

I mis wrote and edited it. Voltage no pump, pump is suspect. If no voltage at the injector electrical issue likely..... That is what I have NO 12V with key on. As I mention relay is clicking like crazy. I assume that is suspect. I am working on checking that. I also updated my trouble shooting... as follows:

No 12V at fuel injector, with key on (panel lit up) and RELAY(S) CLICKIING.

10A #6 Fuse was blown. Replaced it. It blew after I cycled the key a few times while checking relays, then POP.

I checked the two clicking relays, one yellow one blue, one is normally open the other normally closed. They seem to function.

March 31, 2023

9 hours ago, gmcjetpilot said:

I mis wrote and edited it. Voltage no pump, pump is suspect. If no voltage at the injector electrical issue likely..... That is what I have NO 12V with key on. As I mention relay is clicking like crazy. I assume that is suspect. I am working on checking that. I also updated my trouble shooting... as follows:

No 12V at fuel injector, with key on (panel lit up) and RELAY(S) CLICKIING.

10A #6 Fuse was blown. Replaced it. It blew after I cycled the key a few times while checking relays, then POP.

I checked the two clicking relays, one yellow one blue, one is normally open the other normally closed. They seem to function.

Morning gmcjetpilot

The green wire "only" has a couple of seconds of brief power-up at key-on so that seems like a very short time to evaluate relay clicking.

The #6 fuse is 12v for the fuel pump & for the green injector wire so it that blows you have no green wire 12v power or 12v fuel pump power. The #6 fuse blowing sort of points to a seized up fuel pump.

One of the clicking relay's is probably for the ABS/brake dash warning light (normal), if you tell us where the other relay is in the fuse box we can tell you what the other one controls.

Your next step is to unplug the fuel pump (fuel tank) wire pigtail connector, then replace the #6 fuse, then see if you have 2 seconds of 12v on the green wire going to a fuel injector.

If unplugging the fuel tank pigtail connector stops the #6 fuse blowing then you more than likely have a fuel pump issue.

March 31, 2023

5 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning gmcjetpilot

The green wire "only" has a couple of seconds of brief power-up at key-on so that seems like a very short time to evaluate relay clicking.

The #6 fuse is 12v for the fuel pump & for the green injector wire so it that blows you have no green wire 12v power or 12v fuel pump power. The #6 fuse blowing sort of points to a seized up fuel pump.

o

One of the clicking relay's is probably for the ABS/brake dash warning light (normal), if you tell us where the other relay is in the fuse box we can tell you what the other one controls.

Your next step is to unplug the fuel pump (fuel tank) wire pigtail connector, then replace the #6 fuse, then see if you have 2 seconds of 12v on the green wire going to a fuel injector.

If unplugging the fuel tank pigtail connector stops the #6 fuse blowing then you more than likely have a fuel pump issue.

Yep one relay by sound and feel is clicking, sync's with ABS flashing light. May is likely only one relay. The vibration on the adjacent relay was likely from the ABS relay.

BLOWING FUSE and no FUEL PUMP has to be resolved. Great advice. I will do more fault isolation trouble shooting. Thank you Sir.

FUEL INJECTOR GREEN WIRE: To make sure it's the wire pair going to throttle body. The wire COVER has flaked off and exposes TOP of PINS in the connector shell, visible on crimp side. That is where I am probing. Leading to 2 questions?

There is a wire clip on the two wire plug/shall connector going to Fuel Injector. How do I get FI plug off Fuel Injector?
There is no environmental protection from water going down the back of the FI connector/plug/shell. Was there a rubber boot or something at one time, How was this sealed if ever? Suggestions? I (PS I ordered split heat resistant wire loom wrap, 5mm or 3/16", kind of big for two wires. I'll see if it works. I'd like an environmental plug for FI, since it is exposed to the elements.)

March 31, 2023

49 minutes ago, gmcjetpilot said:

Yep one relay by sound and feel is clicking, sync's with ABS flashing light. May is likely only one relay. The vibration on the adjacent relay was likely from the ABS relay.

BLOWING FUSE and no FUEL PUMP has to be resolved. Great advice. I will do more fault isolation trouble shooting. Thank you Sir.

FUEL INJECTOR GREEN WIRE: To make sure it's the wire pair going to throttle body. The wire COVER has flaked off and exposes TOP of PINS in the connector shell, visible on crimp side. That is where I am probing. Leading to 2 questions?

There is a wire clip on the two wire plug/shall connector going to Fuel Injector. How do I get FI plug off Fuel Injector?

There is no environmental protection from water going down the back of the FI connector/plug/shell. Was there a rubber boot or something at one time, How was this sealed if ever? Suggestions? I (PS I ordered split heat resistant wire loom wrap, 5mm or 3/16", kind of big for two wires. I'll see if it works. I'd like an environmental plug for FI, since it is exposed to the elements.)

Afternoon gmcjetpilot

There is a wire clip on the two wire plug/shall connector going to Fuel Injector. How do I get FI plug off Fuel Injector?-- Just push the bail (clip) in towards the injector then wiggle the connector off of the injector.

There is no environmental protection from water going down the back of the FI connector/plug/shell. Was there a rubber boot or something at one time, How was this sealed if ever? Suggestions? I (PS I ordered split heat resistant wire loom wrap, 5mm or 3/16", kind of big for two wires. I'll see if it works. I'd like an environmental plug for FI, since it is exposed to the elements.)--- If you look in the back of the connector (down in the cavity a little) where the wires enter there should be seals around the wires (usually blue). Those seal the connector at wire entry from water entry.

April 1, 2023

I am getting success in failure. So......

I'm getting 12 volts for a second or so on FI (Left Hand Side) green wire. I am also getting 12 volts on green wire going to pump. for a second plus. No fuse blow (#6 10 A) w/ 4 wire tank connector disconnected. Is there a resistance check I can do? It seems like tank is coming off... which does not bother me, a few bolts and hoses at this point. If there is nothing else to check I'll do that. Thanks for your help dirtrider...

OK Confusion. Since when is GREEN Positive????? Also there is one FAT brown wire going to the fuel pump unit. That is NOT getting 12 volts.... but the small green one is. Confused.

NEW PUMP.... Where to buy? BMW Bone Yard has a generic kit under $195 w/ shipping, includes new pump, filter, clamps, hose, filter pickup sock. I guess there is some rewire required?

Also see

$90 All Balls Fuel Pump Rebuild Kit, pump only

$90 eBay Quantum Pump kit with filter

$83 eBay from Poland, Pump and filter (metal internal pump parts) Lots of auctions.

$50 eBay Kemso Intank Fuel Pump for BMW R1150RT EFI 2000-2006, Replaces 16141341231, pump only

$60 Ali Express Fuel Pump Assembly 43 mm BMW 43MM FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY FOR BMW R1100S R1100R R1150R R1150RT R1200C, pump only.

$447 .BMW pump price

eBay and BMW bone yard used....

April 1, 2023

8 hours ago, gmcjetpilot said:

I am getting success in failure. So......

I'm getting 12 volts for a second or so on FI (Left Hand Side) green wire. I am also getting 12 volts on green wire going to pump. for a second plus. No fuse blow (#6 10 A) w/ 4 wire tank connector disconnected. Is there a resistance check I can do? It seems like tank is coming off... which does not bother me, a few bolts and hoses at this point. If there is nothing else to check I'll do that. Thanks for your help dirtrider...

OK Confusion. Since when is GREEN Positive????? Also there is one FAT brown wire going to the fuel pump unit. That is NOT getting 12 volts.... but the small green one is. Confused.

NEW PUMP.... Where to buy? BMW Bone Yard has a generic kit under $195 w/ shipping, includes new pump, filter, clamps, hose, filter pickup sock. I guess there is some rewire required?

Morning gmcjetpilot

I'm getting 12 volts for a second or so on FI (Left Hand Side) green wire. I am also getting 12 volts on green wire going to pump. for a second plus.-- OK, that is now normal, probably means the pump was overloading that circuit & blowing the fuse.

No fuse blow (#6 10 A) w/ 4 wire tank connector disconnected. Is there a resistance check I can do?--- Yes & no, you can check the resistance but that won't help you as resistance alone won't tell you if the pump is able to spin or operate. You could check the amp draw of the pump when it is powered up BUT your 10 amp fuse blowing has already proved the pump is drawing too much current (pump in probably seized up tight).

OK Confusion. Since when is GREEN Positive?????-- On the BMW motorcycle almost always, the pump (12v +) wire & injector wires are actually green/white. BMW uses green for most ign switch, or relay controlled, (12v +) circuits with green/white, green/yellow, green/something being common.

Also there is one FAT brown wire going to the fuel pump unit. That is NOT getting 12 volts.... but the small green one is. Confused.-- Brown is low (ground) on the BMW motorcycles. That brown wire is larger as it is shared, it is shared as both fuel pump low (ground) & the fuel gauge low (ground).

NEW PUMP.... Where to buy? BMW Bone Yard has a generic kit under $195 w/ shipping, includes new pump, filter, clamps, hose, filter pickup sock. I guess there is some rewire required? -- Good question, obviously BMW is a good pump & comes with a warranty, if a careful & informed shopper then E-Bay (used) CAN be a good place but it is easy to get ripped off if the right questions & full pictures are not used to full advantage. Seller history is also something to look at. Personally I never buy BMW "cheap imported" pumps new from E-Bay.

Beemer Boneyard is usually a decent place as they can change their suppliers if problems start showing up with what they sell (if you go with Beemer Boneyard tell them you are a member of this (BMW spottouring) web site as they typically give an additional discount. Beemer Boneyard is good if you have any problems with their parts as they will work with you to rectify the problem.

In the past I have bought pumps from Euomotelectrics but I haven't bought from them in a while now. I have been hearing of some pump problems from Euromotoelectrics lately. www.euromotoelectrics.com

You definitely need to remove your tank & disassemble before buying any parts as you will probably find more corrosion & rusted up parts inside your tank. Disassemble, then evaluate, THEN shop for needed parts.

April 1, 2023

Thank You dirtrider. It's out. Locked up. Drawing 10.4 Amps at 12V and dead. What fun. Ha ha.

Question I had some chunks of black plastic floating around in tank. Ideas what it is?

April 1, 2023

39 minutes ago, gmcjetpilot said:

Thank You dirtrider. It's out. Locked up. Drawing 10.4 Amps at 12V and dead. What fun. Ha ha.

Question I had some chunks of black plastic floating around in tank. Ideas what it is?

Evening gmcjetpilot

That pump doesn't look as bad as I thought it would. You might remove the intake sock then spray in some WD-40 or light gun oil, then reach in with something then see if you can spin the impeller. That pump might just have a stuck impeller that will free up then work OK. (CAUTION: do not run the pump for more than a nano second without fluid flowing through it as running a dry pump can damage it).

I'm not sure what those plastic pieces are, is the connector on the fuel gauge tube wire pig tail still intact? Or possibly pieces of the rubber "O" ring that went around the fuel gauge tube to retain/guide the pigtail wires.

The internal vent & drain hoses are not stock so those have been changed, so possibly those black pieces are remnants from the original black 5mm hoses. The hoses you have in there now look like Tygon so if they are now stiff/hard then I would suggest replacement with proper SAE30R10 fuel submergible hose.

It looks like the internal pump & fuel gauge wires have been replaced in the past also. (the insulation tends to fall of the original wires on older BMW's). Actually looks like a fairly neat & tidy job inside the tank.

April 2, 2023

I will try and free it up.... With my luck I am thinking $170 on new pump, filter, hoses, clamps and lower rubber damer from Beemer boneyard would give me piece of mind.

I was missing the lower rubber vibration damper on pump. That might be the chunks in the tanks? The Beemer Boneyard kit has that included.

The Tygon hoses I put in. I am going to do as you suggest. I was shocked they got so stiff. The other black reinforced rubber fuel hoses I installed look fine. The "U" turn stainless steel tubing works like a charm vs the BMW rubber part that fails a lot apparently.

Fingers crossed. Thanks again. I really appreciate the help and encouragement. Take the rest of the weekend off dirtrider. Ha ha. I'll update soon when I get parts. Cheers.

May 14, 2023

It is alive. I drove 100 miles today. WOW what a joy. THANK YOU for the help. I have top box as well but left it off. There are no problems but it looks like the capacitive fuel level is intermittent and/or inaccurate. I had replaced it 5 years ago before the big got put up in mothballs in part for fuel pump issue and the World Wide "Panorama". I also touched up the valve covers and replace a bunch of brittle wiring harness covers. Both are visible in pictures. There are threads on both with better pictures of those items.

electrical-wiring-harness-cover-crumbling-19-yr-old-r1150rt-stored-for-5-years

valve-cover-touch-up

May 14, 2023

Congrats and many happy miles in your future. It must feel good to have spent the time and money and see it come to fruition.

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HELP - My R1150RT Stored for 5 years - Need Advice to Bring Back To Life

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