New to me 09' RT1200P 23K miles needs clutch

[SD1]

Hi Mike, I will buy it. Send me a PM and we can make arrangements.  *EDIT* I checked and the #'s do not match??? Interesting, should be the same, can anyone comment if the clutch was upgraded/changed from 06-09'???

 

Thanks

 

-Doug

[SD1]

@beemer chuck Check the pics, def some corrosion.

@dirtrider

 

I decided to get a jump on breaking it down this morning. Def does have the newer FPC with the black fins. Check the vent line, its just about closed off with corrosion. I think there is a secondary vent system on there right side of the tank? But if not, a restricted vent line would create a bunch of vacuum and add a lot of work for the pump. 

 

 

[dirtrider]

Quote

 

@beemer chuck Check the pics, def some corrosion.

@dirtrider

 

I decided to get a jump on breaking it down this morning. Def does have the newer FPC with the black fins. Check the vent line, its just about closed off with corrosion. I think there is a secondary vent system on there right side of the tank? But if not, a restricted vent line would create a bunch of vacuum and add a lot of work for the pump. 

Sand wasp built a condo on one of the ABS lines. 

 

Afternoon SD1

 

I can not view your pictures as they are download only & I won't download unknown files on my work computer. 

 

On the tank vent, only one tank vent, the other line is not a vent but is the water drain for the fuel filler cap ring. The plugged pass-through fitting is the water drain pass-through not the tank vent . The vent is up top of tank  & goes to the Evap canister on the right front. 

 

A plugged vent line on the BMW 1200 doesn't cause much extra pump work as the pump is regulated by the fueling computer & the FPC. On the BMW 1200RT's the fuel tank is plastic so with the pump inside the tank it is pumping 50+ psi OUT not an external pump sucking the fuel out so about all a plugged vent usually does is just  allow the pump to easily suck the sides of the plastic tank in as the fuel inside is used. 

[chrisolson]

@SD1  your pics are in the apple heic format and the forum software does not directly imbed that format.  You need to convert them to jpg or even png . 

 

OR

 

change your camera settings ..

 

you can see more here ...

 

 

[SD1]

Thanks Chris, I did in fact take the pics with an iPhone, see what I can do, thank you for the tip!!

[dirtrider]

39 minutes ago, SD1 said:

@beemer chuck Check the pics, def some corrosion.

@dirtrider

 

I decided to get a jump on breaking it down this morning. Def does have the newer FPC with the black fins. Check the vent line, its just about closed off with corrosion. I think there is a secondary vent system on there right side of the tank? But if not, a restricted vent line would create a bunch of vacuum and add a lot of work for the pump. 

 

 

Afternoon SD1

 

That plugged fitting isn't the tank vent it is the fuel fill  cap ring drain line.  

[dirtrider]

52 minutes ago, SD1 said:

Hi Mike, I will buy it. Send me a PM and we can make arrangements.  *EDIT* I checked and the #'s do not match??? Interesting, should be the same, can anyone comment if the clutch was upgraded/changed from 06-09'???

 

Thanks

 

-Doug

Afternoon SD1

 

 

 

Something wrong with part numbers as 23127667733 is NOT the  "Clutch Plate" it is the SEAL  & my parts book shows that seal has been superseded.                      

 

23127667733 Shaft Seal for gear box (has been superseded) 

[SD1]

Thanks @dirtrider Will be interesting to see what's in the bottom of the tank based on that return line. The fuel lines were clean, does not appear the pump has ever been pulled, other than a bit of surface dirt, all the connections were intact and clean.

 

I would def like to buy those parts if they are suitable for my machine, thanks for any help with that!

 

[dirtrider]

34 minutes ago, SD1 said:

Thanks @dirtrider Will be interesting to see what's in the bottom of the tank based on that return line. The fuel lines were clean, does not appear the pump has ever been pulled, other than a bit of surface dirt, all the connections were intact and clean.

 

I would def like to buy those parts if they are suitable for my machine, thanks for any help with that!

 

Afternoon SD1

 

That plugged fitting doesn't empty into the tank, is has a hose on the inside of the tank that runs from the filler cap external ring down through the tank then hooks to that plugged fitting inside the fuel tank, then a hose on the outside of the tank runs down to behind the R/H riders foot peg.  (drain hose just runs THROUGH the tank not into it)

 

On the clutch disk?  I can't do much UNTIL you get a part number from the actual clutch disk. 

 

Seal would probably work but it was superseded for a reason so with all the work involved to get to it you probably want to install then latest seal.  (that is if you even need a new seal).

 

You will probably (usually do anyhow) also need a new pressure plate if your clutch is actually failed. 

[SD1]

clutch plate 21 21 7 697 737

 

Pulled from MAX BMW K26 05-09 K1200RT

 

[dirtrider]

12 minutes ago, SD1 said:

clutch plate 21 21 7 697 737

 

Pulled from MAX BMW K26 05-09 K1200RT

 

Afternoon SD1

 

I don't see that 21217697737 clutch disk on Mike T's list of parts for  sale. 

 

You need to get the correct  disk part number from Mike T.

[SD1]

Yep, hopefully he will chime in. Thanks for everyones time and attention!

[SD1]

Mike confirmed the part number on the clutch plate and it will be heading my way shortly. Sweet!! Thanks again for the hookup Mike! Def saved me a couple of duckets! 

[SD1]

The sage continues. I pulled the fuel pump out today. It was very badly decomposed. The supply line was missing the center 2" and there was substantial buildup on the entire pump assembly which will require a new pump assembly.  The strip inside the tank which I believe is the gauge apparatus is also in poor condition. There was some almost black sludge at the bottom of the tank. The tank cleaned up easily and is in good shape.

 

I will be rehabbing the fuel lines and injectors based on my find today. 

 

No pics as I was gloved up and handling the pump.

[dirtrider]

19 minutes ago, SD1 said:

The sage continues. I pulled the fuel pump out today. It was very badly decomposed. The supply line was missing the center 2" and there was substantial buildup on the entire pump assembly which will require a new pump assembly.  The strip inside the tank which I believe is the gauge apparatus is also in poor condition. There was some almost black sludge at the bottom of the tank. The tank cleaned up easily and is in good shape.

 

I will be rehabbing the fuel lines and injectors based on my find today. 

 

No pics as I was gloved up and handling the pump.

Evening  SD1

 

We don't need pictures of everything as we have seen it all before. Too many pictures just make these threads longer & more complex. 

 

If you install a new fuel gauge strip that will need to calibrated it (dry) before installing in the tank. You need a GS-911 or a dealer computer to do the calibration.  You can t-r-y to install new one but if the calibration is off (usually is) then it is a real pain to remove it & fully dry it out so it can be properly calibrated. 

 

You might also check the emission evaporation  canister (front right) as that is probably plugged & full of varnish also as well as it's control solenoid. (the evap canister is part of the fuel tank vent so it needs to be clean & free-flowing or removed & by-passed.    

[SD1]

Cool sounds you have seen it all. I will just be over here quietly working in the corner. Wish me luck. Thanks!

[dirtrider]

4 minutes ago, SD1 said:

Cool sounds you have seen it all. I will just be over here quietly working in the corner. Wish me luck. Thanks!

Evening  SD1

 

The cost of new BMW parts (even aftermarket is exspensive!

 

E-Bay is usually your best friend when it comes to reasonable BMW 1200 parts (sometimes you need to be patient to find good parts at a decent price)   

[SD1]

ITS ALIVE!!! Got a new fuel pump, swapped plugs, air filter. It fired right up, idles smoothly. AND...... I rode it..... Albeit a very gingerly ride around the block until I do a few more things. But, clutch engaged and works. 

 

Question. I think the brake failure light always illuminates and disappears once you go a couple of feet if I remember correctly??? I think it has the linked braking? Its got great bite front the front lever and not so much from the rear pedal? Fluids are crystal clear, but I haven't touched them.

And, the big yellow triangle was off but came on after a I went about 100ft? Stays on.

 

I don't want to run it anymore until I change out the engine oil. Happy its alive and seems to run very well. Thanks again for the assistance.

 

Quick follow up, what air pressures do you guys use? It has the Michelin Pilot Road 3 front and back. And where can I find the date code on the tires? 

[dirtrider]

29 minutes ago, SD1 said:

ITS ALIVE!!! Got a new fuel pump, swapped plugs, air filter. It fired right up, idles smoothly. AND...... I rode it..... Albeit a very gingerly ride around the block until I do a few more things. But, clutch engaged and works. 

 

Question. I think the brake failure light always illuminates and disappears once you go a couple of feet if I remember correctly??? I think it has the linked braking? Its got great bite front the front lever and not so much from the rear pedal? Fluids are crystal clear, but I haven't touched them.

And, the big yellow triangle was off but came on after a I went about 100ft? Stays on.

 

I don't want to run it anymore until I change out the engine oil. Happy its alive and seems to run very well. Thanks again for the assistance.

 

Quick follow up, what air pressures do you guys use? It has the Michelin Pilot Road 3 front and back. And where can I find the date code on the tires? 

Evening SD1

 

On the brakes, the front lever operates both front & rear brake (lots of braking power), rear pedal only operates rear brake only (not so much braking). Once you get it ridable just find a gravel or dirt road & see if you can lock the rear brake enough to get ABS to kick in. 

 

On the dash warning light, yellow is the general warning light, it tells you something is wrong. Other dash icons that come on with the yellow light usually tell you what is causing the problem. 

 

On the tire pressures, that  kind of varies by rider & situation. Riding, just me, light, & fast, I usually run 32 psi front (cold) & 36 psi rear Cold. A lot of riders run the pressures slightly higher but for my riding & with no extra load on the bike  I haven't ever found an advantage to higher pressures & about all I get is a harsher ride. 

In the spring I will bump the pressures up a couple of pounds each just so I don't bend a rim in my pothole infested state.  

 

 

 

 

[lkraus]

You might find it helpful to have a copy of the standard owners manual: https://manuals.bmw-motorrad.com/manuals/BA-Extern/IN/BA-INTERNET-COM/PDF/R_0388_RM_0208_R1200RT_07.pdf

 

There will be some small differences between the civilian model and the RTP, but most of manual will apply to your bike.

 

The yellow triangle is a general notice that something requires attention. Look for other warning symbols - low fuel, lamps out, etc.

A red triangle indicates a serious problem that requires immediate attention, like low oil pressure.

 

[SD1]

Thanks @dirtrider and @lkraus

 

Thank you for the link to the Manual, that will be a big help!

 

 I def know the fuel metering strip has got to be cooked. I mentioned earlier the pump was badly deteriorated so I had little hope the fuel gauge would work and I guessed correctly. Guessing that it may be the reason for the warning light? All the lights are working. I just wanted to know if it was a do not ride issue, so thanks for that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Skywagon]

On 8/18/2022 at 3:47 PM, SD1 said:

Cool sounds you have seen it all.

If DR hasn't seen it....then it's never happened.  I don't think there is anything BMW DR doesn't know.

[SD1]

I went through the manual. Seems like tire pressures are a little on the low side. Are you all adhering to the manual or??? 

 

I noticed when I rode the bike the suspension seemed very soft, checked the preload and it was on the hash mark low, shown in manual pic.  I am right at 185lb and prefer a stiff chassis. Going up to the STD hash mark or +1 hash mark above, in FL lots of smooth tarmac.

 

 

[Skywagon]

withing a couple of pounds are two....I think most folks will suggest 38F/42R

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, SD1 said:

I went through the manual. Seems like tire pressures are a little on the low side. Are you all adhering to the manual or??? 

 

I noticed when I rode the bike the suspension seemed very soft, checked the preload and it was on the hash mark low, shown in manual pic.  I am right at 185lb and prefer a stiff chassis. Going up to the STD hash mark or +1 hash mark above, in FL lots of smooth tarmac.

 

Morning SD1

 

That adjuster you show is the rear strut (shock) preload adjuster, that basically just raises the rear of the motorcycle back to correct height when you put additional load on the motorcycle. That adjuster has nothing to do with the strut (shock) damping. 

 

If you want a stiffer ride there is a damping adjuster screw on the rear strut. You can turn that to increase shock damping to get a stiffer ride. 

 

 

 

 

 

[SD1]

OK, its all bolted back up. I used the Castrol 20/50 and a Hiflo 164 filter for oil. I used 4Qts which is slightly under 4L and I ran it for about a minute post change and window is covered. I warmed it up and let it drain for about an hour with both the drain and filter removed and it was on the center stand. I am going for a short ride to top off the tank and set the air pressure and will recheck.

 

Thanks for the tip on the air pressure, I thought +5 was about right.

 

I adjusted the dampening to the middle, it was at the soft detente. It felt mushy on the short ride I took last night. I misread the preload, its mounted upside down, its actually on the lightest setting and it would NOT move. Its not in the best spot, but I had enough of a grip it certainly should have adjusted with the force I put on it. Going to check after the ride, but would def like to add some preload.

 

The triangle is from the gas gauge, thanks for pointing that out. It is the only error message, so good start. I will get that squared away but based on my riding and habits, I shouldn't be in any danger of running out. BUT, I assume the trip meter features don't work properly without being able to monitor consumption and I would like to have that and the fuel gauge in working order.

 

Thanks again for all the feedback. Appreciate the patience and answering my questions.

 

 

[dirtrider]

23 minutes ago, SD1 said:

OK, its all bolted back up. I used the Castrol 20/50 and a Hiflo 164 filter for oil. I used 4Qts which is slightly under 4L and I ran it for about a minute post change and window is covered. I warmed it up and let it drain for about an hour with both the drain and filter removed and it was on the center stand. I am going for a short ride to top off the tank and set the air pressure and will recheck.

 

Thanks for the tip on the air pressure, I thought +5 was about right.

 

I adjusted the dampening to the middle, it was at the soft detente. It felt mushy on the short ride I took last night. I misread the preload, its mounted upside down, its actually on the lightest setting and it would NOT move. Its not in the best spot, but I had enough of a grip it certainly should have adjusted with the force I put on it. Going to check after the ride, but would def like to add some preload.

 

The triangle is from the gas gauge, thanks for pointing that out. It is the only error message, so good start. I will get that squared away but based on my riding and habits, I shouldn't be in any danger of running out. BUT, I assume the trip meter features don't work properly without being able to monitor consumption and I would like to have that and the fuel gauge in working order.

 

Lastly, I only have one key. Its the little stubby guy, I don't think its a transponder. Can I order one at the dealer with going up there or do they want to check the registration etc.

 

Thanks again for all the feedback. Appreciate the patience and answering my questions.

 

 

Afternoon SD1

 

You need a key with a transponder pellet or your engine won't start. Those keys are expensive. 

 

You will probably need your drivers license (ID)  registration, & possibly the title (call your dealer first). You might have to have the new key programed into your BMS-K electronics. Dealer will usually have to order the new key.  

 

4 quarts is good on the oil level, that is where most run their 1200RT's.

 

Those manual strut adjusters are hydraulic & some run low on fluid after a while. (if you get no response when turning the knob  then possible try to add some hydraulic oil to the system) 

 

Until you get a new fuel strip & get it calibrated in you can build a fuel gauge spoofer with a few resistors & some soldering. (that will put you dash light out). Trip meters will still work but fuel mileage & distance to empty won't. 

[SD1]

I called the dealer, yes they want state ID and matching reg. Bike was out of state so I have to take it to DMV to get it inspected for the title.

 

They told me it is possible it does not have a transponder key, wouldn't surprise me, cops like to keep it simple with keys. If you didnt know, you can order police cruisers "Keyed alike" so one key will open/start any car in the fleet. 

 

Here is a pic of the key....

 

 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, SD1 said:

I called the dealer, yes they want state ID and matching reg. Bike was out of state so I have to take it to DMV to get it inspected for the title.

 

They told me it is possible it does not have a transponder key, wouldn't surprise me, cops like to keep it simple with keys. If you didnt know, you can order police cruisers "Keyed alike" so one key will open/start any car in the fleet. 

 

Here is a pic of the key....

 

 

 

Afternoon SD1

 

Looks like a standard BMW 1200 key. 

 

See if there is an antenna ring around the ignition switch. 

 

[SD1]

I believe it does have that apparatus.

 

Went down to air up the tires and top off the tank, 30 miles later, bike runs and rides perfectly. 

 

Forgot how agile these things are for technically being a bigger bike. Fun fun fun!

 

Still want a little more preload, but otherwise, not much to complain about.

 

Going to replace the back tire and fix the fuel gauge and call it a day.

[SD1]

Went down to Daytona Beach this am and stopped in to the BMW shop to see if they had any ideas on my stuck preload reservoir. While we were not able to free it up, the Service manage ran the VIN and populated two recalls. First was an "axle flange" some part in the rear wheel assembly, and the fuel pump. He ordered the axle flange part and then handed me a brand new in box fuel pump....AND he even tried to get me the fuel sender which was also recalled on 2010+ if I heard him correctly, but still tried to see if I had a late in service date so he could also give me that part.  Great morning ride topped off by a very helpful service shop that fixed problems I didnt even know I had.....these days I am always somewhat surprised when a shop goes above and beyond..... 

 

 

 

 

[chrisolson]

12 minutes ago, SD1 said:

Went down to Daytona Beach this am and stopped in to the BMW shop to see if they had any ideas on my stuck preload reservoir. While we were not able to free it up, the Service manage ran the VIN and populated two recalls. First was an "axle flange" some part in the rear wheel assembly, and the fuel pump. He ordered the axle flange part and then handed me a brand new in box fuel pump....AND he even tried to get me the fuel sender which was also recalled on 2010+ if I heard him correctly, but still tried to see if I had a late in service date so he could also give me that part.  Great morning ride topped off by a very helpful service shop that fixed problems I didnt even know I had.....these days I am always somewhat surprised when a shop goes above and beyond..... 

 

 

 

B3BA1B2A-9A6B-4AE0-84C7-42996C5D7FB1.heic 2.8 MB · 2 downloads 68B786A3-74C1-4185-A847-B65A2866E975.heic 2.81 MB · 0 downloads

 

@SD1  ... it would make it so much easier for members to follow and enjoy what pics you post if you'd review which format they are in before posting  .... (previously noted issue the apple heic photo format)

[lkraus]

I'm surprised he would hand you the fuel pump. I think that BMW usually requires that a dealer perform the recall work (still free to the owner) and recover the old part.

 

The wheel flange is probably not a job you'll want to tackle yourself, make an appointment when it comes in. See https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2015/RCRIT-15V141-0846.pdf for the procedure.

 

The fuel strip was never recalled. BMW switched to a float sender shortly after production of the 2010 models began.  BMW did extend the fuel strip warranty to 12 years after the in-service date, but you are likely beyond that time frame.

[SD1]

@lkraus I agree, it was a bit odd, but I did not complain. Def. going to have them do the flange, we are going to schedule when the part comes in. He was kind of half talking to me and to himself, at first he said he thought he could warranty the fuel sender then came back and said he had to check the in service date. If it was 12 years, I missed it by 11 month. Kind of BS but hard to complain after they handed me the fuel pump.

 

@chrisolson deleted the photos. I am not technically savvy nor do I want to be as it relates to the iPhone, so I won't post anymore pics.

 

 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, SD1 said:

Went down to Daytona Beach this am and stopped in to the BMW shop to see if they had any ideas on my stuck preload reservoir. While we were not able to free it up, the Service manage ran the VIN and populated two recalls. First was an "axle flange" some part in the rear wheel assembly, and the fuel pump. He ordered the axle flange part and then handed me a brand new in box fuel pump....AND he even tried to get me the fuel sender which was also recalled on 2010+ if I heard him correctly, but still tried to see if I had a late in service date so he could also give me that part.  Great morning ride topped off by a very helpful service shop that fixed problems I didnt even know I had.....these days I am always somewhat surprised when a shop goes above and beyond..... 

 

Afternoon  SD1

 

There was also a brake line recall on the 2009 1200RT, I believe the police bike also had that recall but have them check next time you go to the dealer to see if is required, or it it has already been done. 

 

Definitely have the dealer do that wheel flange install  as it is easy to ruin the final drive  crown bearing if the flange is heated too hot for press-on. The bearing typically fails at a later date (not within a few days) so if flange is dealer installed they usually cover the bearing failure at a later date. 

[SD1]

Here some pics after I cleaned it up. Think I am going to remove the flags...... 

[dduelin]

On 8/25/2022 at 12:27 PM, dirtrider said:

Afternoon SD1

 

You need a key with a transponder pellet or your engine won't start. Those keys are expensive. 

 

You will probably need your drivers license (ID)  registration, & possibly the title (call your dealer first). You might have to have the new key programed into your BMS-K electronics. Dealer will usually have to order the new key.  

 

4 quarts is good on the oil level, that is where most run their 1200RT's.

 

Those manual strut adjusters are hydraulic & some run low on fluid after a while. (if you get no response when turning the knob  then possible try to add some hydraulic oil to the system) 

 

Until you get a new fuel strip & get it calibrated in you can build a fuel gauge spoofer with a few resistors & some soldering. (that will put you dash light out). Trip meters will still work but fuel mileage & distance to empty won't. 

DR,

 

With the emulator my average mpg still seems to work as it varies low 40s to about 50 with how frisky I am riding and instead of "miles to empty" it now reads "range of a full tank" based on displayed average mpg times 7.1 gallons. I use that displayed range of tank against one of the trip meters.

[Scott9999]

On 8/26/2022 at 1:00 PM, SD1 said:

Here some pics after I cleaned it up. Think I am going to remove the flags...... 

 

 

 

 

That's a sharp looking ride.  I hope you have some fun with it.  (Beware, some folks will react in crazy ways when they see an RTP on the road.   Even without lights and markings, those colors stand out.  I've got stories .... 😁.  However, some cop haters will try to run you down, so just use caution.)

 

This reminds me of my first BMW, a 2001 R1100RT-P.  It had 44K on the clock, and yeah, the transmission lasted about 5K miles after I picked it up.  That bike had been road hard and put away wet, by lots of LEO's (i.e. it was a local PD training bike).   I split the bike and R&R'd the clutch, rear engine seal (which was the main problem with the clutch), I farmed out the transmission, and had that bike apart for about nine months before I could ride it again.   So, you're WAY ahead of that game.  👍🍻🏆

 

This thread also reminds me of when I first found bmwst.com.  This community has been, and is just fantastic.  There are a couple of other good forums out there, but this has been one of the best.   Unfortunately, we've lost of few of our best, most experienced Beemer wrenches over the years, but others (e.g. DR) have stepped up.   I hope you're enjoying the whole Beemer-learning experience, because the camaraderie here is a big part of it, at least it is to me.

 

I found a few pictures of my old RT-P in the BMWST archives.   (Yep, yours is definitely prettier!  But boy-oh-boy, I think I miss that old bike.) 😁

 

 

 

[SD1]

@Scott9999 Thanks for the compliment. It a decent looking bike for sure. The battle scars are limited to the crash bars/valve covers,  but it gives it the appropriate in service "patina" if you will. I have been buying and selling surplus car/trucks for many moons. I don't usually buy bikes but this was in the neighborhood and price was right.

 

I am not getting a lot of attention which I like especially on a bike, I am just out for a Sunday ride.  

 

I am all about the fun, I have been out the last 3 mornings (still getting hot daytime temps, N.FL) 160m Fri 44mpg, 120m Sat 54mpg, 130m Sun. You guys all know, BMW makes awesome motorcycles. Very fun bike, its like a big dirt bike. Been a fun couple of days, very competent/entertaining bike. 

 

BTW I grew up in Spokane and my family still has cabin in Cottonwood Bay on the sound end of CDA. Beautiful, was there for a few days in January.

[SD1]

Wound up riding the bike about 8 days in a row and only stopped because I got behind on chores and I burned down the rear tire. Was going to stick with the Michelins but local shop has Dunlop Roadsmart 3's in stock for half the price and they are well reviewed.  

 

removed the front emergency light brackets, the 911 sticker from the bags and ceramic coated all the painted surfaces. 

 

leaning towards wrapping it to make it all black/monochromatic. 

 

I also learned that the fuel sender is real piece of work and might even fail in short order if I get a new one. That is a little disappointing. I can deal with resetting the trip meter, but I cant stand the error light and what idiot thought it would be awesome to have a huge yellow triangle illuminated night and day because the fuel gauge isnt working... Anyway looking for a used piece or a piece of blackout vinyl to cover the center display. : )

 

If anyone is in need, I am willing to sell the new in box OEM fuel pump as well as the clutch disk and seals I bought thinking it would need a clutch. I also have a spare FPC now as well, but I would want to test it first, its the one that was mounted on the original fuel pump. It is the newer/large fin version.

 

I am high and dry until the middle of the week when I can get to the shop as tire is down to the cords and no more riding till new skins are mounted.

 

Hope everyone is out riding and enjoying life!

[dirtrider]

Quote

 

I also learned that the fuel sender is real piece of work and might even fail in short order if I get a new one. That is a little disappointing. I can deal with resetting the trip meter, but I cant stand the error light and what idiot thought it would be awesome to have a huge yellow triangle illuminated night and day because the fuel gauge isnt working... Anyway looking for a used piece or a piece of blackout vinyl to cover the center display. : )

 

If anyone is in need, I am willing to sell the new in box OEM fuel pump as well as the clutch disk and seals I bought thinking it would need a clutch. I also have a spare FPC now as well, but I would want to test it first, its the one that was mounted on the original fuel pump. It is the newer/large fin version.

 

Morning SD1

 

You can turn that yellow dash light out  (if the yellow light is caused by a failed fuel strip) with a 3 cheap resistors & a little solder. That homemade fuel gauge spoofer will tell your dash electronics that the fuel strip is reading. 

 

By building/installing the fuel gauge spoofer that will still allow the yellow warning light to still work for other important vehicle warnings.   

 

Keep the FPC as a spare, if it's still good then you can use that if/when your FPC fails in the future. If it is no-good then you can use it to make a FPC by-pass harness to allow your engine to run with battery-direct 12v if your FPC fails while out riding far from home.