New to me 09' RT1200P 23K miles needs clutch

[SD1]

Hey all, I just purchased the bike from a small PD about 100 miles away, the bike is in Florence, AL and taking it to my son's home in Huntsville about 90 miles away. I have not physically inspected the bike, but I am told by the patrolman who was riding it that the clutch is done. It hasn't been ridden for quite a while, he thinks its been sitting for months at least and possible a year so I wanted to get some feedback.

I looked at the clutch job, not something I can do at home, it doesn't look that hard but looked like it has to be broken down pretty far. Question, what am I looking at to have a shop do it? There is a BMW shop in Huntsville, AL. Its an older bike and I don't own it for a lot of money and I am willing to pay a fair price to have a new clutch installed and basically a safety inspection, fluids swap.

 

It looks pretty clean and was told it has never been wrecked, but does have some minor scratches and one of the crash bars looks like it has least been laid over. I will include some pics.

 

Thanks in advance for any help, I have been wanting one of these for a long time and looking forward to get it up and going.

 

 

[dirtrider]

45 minutes ago, SD1 said:

>>>>I looked at the clutch job, not something I can do at home, it doesn't look that hard but looked like it has to be broken down pretty far. Question, what am I looking at to have a shop do it? There is a BMW shop in Huntsville, AL. Its an older bike and I don't own it for a lot of money and I am willing to pay a fair price to have a new clutch installed and basically a safety inspection, fluids swap.

Afternoon SD1

 

Cost to install a new clutch can vary a LOT depending on shop labor rates, how many new parts the clutch needs, if anything external caused the clutch damage like an oil leak at the rear of engine, or a failed, or failing slave cylinder, or something else.  

 

It might not even need a clutch if the clutch is simply not releasing due to air in the clutch line or slave cylinder (the 1200RT can do that if the slave is taking in air).

 

If it needs a clutch & you are having a dealer do it then it won't be cheap so you should probably have the dealer look at the motorcycle then give you an idea on what is wrong & how much to repair (they probably can't give you a firm price until they tear it apart though).

 

Just the parts alone are not cheap & it could easily need all the below (won't know for sure until it is taken apart) 

 

$316.00  clutch housing

$506.47 pressure plate

$272.82  disk

$266.00 slave cylinder

[SD1]

Thats crazy, good thing I got it cheap. Are there any alternate parts options? I would actually prefer BMW oem but......

 

Its already on the way to the shop and he already gave me an estimate. Its amazingly high for a motorcycle clutch. I do know the cops go through them, even at 23k that doesn't surprise me., The good news is they are usually over serviced in terms of fluids, tires, brake pads and they won't operate them unless they are 100%.

 

I might get lucky and it might just be it needs some fresh clutch goo and lines bled but not holding my breath. I found a local guy, he was recommended by the service manager at the powersports franchise, says he can do it and does good work, so we will find out.

[dirtrider]

11 minutes ago, SD1 said:

Thats crazy, good thing I got it cheap. Are there any alternate parts options? I would actually prefer BMW oem but......

 

Its already on the way to the shop and he already gave me an estimate. Its amazingly high for a motorcycle clutch. I do know the cops go through them, even at 23k that doesn't surprise me., The good news is they are usually over serviced in terms of fluids, tires, brake pads and they won't operate them unless they are 100%.

 

I might get lucky and it might just be it needs some fresh clutch goo and lines bled but not holding my breath. I found a local guy, he was recommended by the service manager at the powersports franchise, says he can do it and does good work, so we will find out.

Afternoon SD1

 

Yes, BMW parts are expensive and so is their typical labor rates. 

 

You can go to BeemerBoneyard    https://www.beemerboneyard.com/  & sniff around for what they have to offer.

 

If you are doing the work yourself then you have the option of finding good used parts on E-Bay as some of the E-Bay parts are from low mile crashed/parted-out motorcycles. BUT you really have to know your parts & ask the right questions to not get ripped off.  

 

I have found some very good BMW clutch parts on E-Bay but I REALLY do my research & ask a LOT of specific questions before buying anything.  

 

You need to find out EXACTLY what is wrong with the motorcycle before you can make any informed decisions.

[SD1]

I really don't have any way to offset the cost, so it is what it is. It went cheaply enough that even with the repairs I still bought it right knock on wood. And its going to be easy on me, I am just making a couple payments and showing up to ride off. Found a local guy and already have a tow going after it to get it to the shop today 8/2. Says 3 weeks reminded me a couple of times how much work it is.... : ) haha I know.... 

[Mark C]

11 hours ago, SD1 said:

Hey all, I just purchased the bike from a small PD about 100 miles away, the bike is in Florence, AL and taking it to my son's home in Huntsville about 90 miles away. I have not physically inspected the bike, but I am told by the patrolman who was riding it that the clutch is done. It hasn't been ridden for quite a while, he thinks its been sitting for months at least and possible a year so I wanted to get some feedback.

I looked at the clutch job, not something I can do at home, it doesn't look that hard but looked like it has to be broken down pretty far. Question, what am I looking at to have a shop do it? There is a BMW shop in Huntsville, AL. Its an older bike and I don't own it for a lot of money and I am willing to pay a fair price to have a new clutch installed and basically a safety inspection, fluids swap.

 

It looks pretty clean and was told it has never been wrecked, but does have some minor scratches and one of the crash bars looks like it has least been laid over. I will include some pics.

 

Thanks in advance for any help, I have been wanting one of these for a long time and looking forward to get it up and going.

 

 

I left Annsiton, Al. 7 years ago and could have fixed it for 1/3 what BMW would charge for labor and have a good used clutch & flywheel  for $89

Now in Cal. and never coming back. Looks like you need a seat and seat blocks, I have them too.

 Mark -707-245-3289

[Mark C]

pic

[SD1]

It looks like its out of a small car. I assume most civilian RT's don't go through clutches in 23k miles? . They had three bikes the other two were missing pieces and one of the other ones also needed a clutch. I am guessing this agency got an RO for a clutch on one of these bikes and realized they needed new bikes. 

 

The seat and mirrors were included, I don't know where those two plastic pieces go? trim maybe? 

[Rougarou]

23k seems mighty low, but it is a lawdog bike.  I had my clutch replaced at about 70k when I had the transmission replaced.  The '06rt is now at 145k and clutch feels fine.

 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, SD1 said:

It looks like its out of a small car. I assume most civilian RT's don't go through clutches in 23k miles? . They had three bikes the other two were missing pieces and one of the other ones also needed a clutch. I am guessing this agency got an RO for a clutch on one of these bikes and realized they needed new bikes. 

 

The seat and mirrors were included, I don't know where those two plastic pieces go? trim maybe? 

 

Morning SD1

 

Most 1200RT's don't need a clutch at 23K but some can if they have an oil leak at the rear main seal, or leak at the  balance shaft seal, or leak at  transmission front seal.

 

OR, the rider is abusive with the clutch , OR some LEO tries to continually slip the clutch like his previous wet clutch Harley. 

 

If that motorcycle was mainly used for parade or escort duty then there might have been a lot of (intended) clutch slippage involved to keep/maintain a slow walking pace.

 

Those 2 plastic pieces are actually rear seat area filler wedges. The front seat shown doesn't go all the way back to the rear top case so there needs to be fillers at the rear of the seat. 

[9Mary7]

22 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

some LEO tries to continually slip the clutch like his previous wet clutch

We had this problem with a Sgt. who had never used a dry clutch, or ridden a big twin. After the second clutch replacement in as many years, he got hit by a car and decided Motors was not his career path........

[dirtrider]

27 minutes ago, 9Mary7 said:

We had this problem with a Sgt. who had never used a dry clutch, or ridden a big twin. After the second clutch replacement in as many years, he got hit by a car and decided Motors was not his career path........

Morning 9Mary7

 

 

As Clint Eastwood said___ "A man’s got to know his limitations"

 

[SD1]

Cool, thanks for pointing that out seat blocks, sorry missed that earlier. I was looking at the pics trying to figure out that puzzle.

 

And yeah, cop bike. But, if you are going to buy one, small town, mild climate, low miles.  

 

I even like the reflective tape, I may leave that on....

[dduelin]

Kind of on topic, I bought Bernie's '07 RT after he bought a new Wethead. His '07 needed to come apart because the clutch was making a funny noise. I took it apart to find and repair the noise which was found to be axial play in the output shaft - the output shaft bearing was coming apart. The clutch was actually working fine but I replaced it as bike had 188,000 miles on the original clutch and the bike was all apart anyway. I bought the necessary parts from Beemer Boneyard. A clutch isn't a difficult job but it does require a lot of disassembly to get to it. I rode the bike 4000 miles and sold it before finding my current 'RT. That RT still ran great and looked great at 192,000 miles.

[Rotor]

That bike may not have been wrecked in the traditional sense, but it’s been dropped, a lot.  That’s not necessarily a bad thing and normally very little damage occurs to them when this happens (usually a training thing).  And, they were probably well maintained in-that oil, fluids, brakes, etc., were regularly serviced.  The clutch, however, is a different animal.  For those officers that learned the proper technique for using a dry clutch motorcycle the clutches would last a very long time.  My department had three RTP’s.  The clutches in those bikes lasted five years before needing replacement, to include competition events.  Sorry, don’t recall the mileage.  I could do our departments Harley comparison for you if you’re really interested. 

Guess I’m just trying to say that if you learn how to use them, they last a very long time.

Now, RTP’s vs civilian bikes:

It’s very difficult to turn an RTP into the equivalent civilian bike.  If you’re just using it for around town or day-rides you may be happy (?).   If you want more it get’s more expensive and complicated.

Wishing you well with your new bike.

 

[Doctor T]

I notice the clutch is in 3 parts as per cars. Is there no clutch release bearing as a car again?. Does the disc shown in the picture act as a release bearing?.

[dirtrider]

27 minutes ago, Doctor T said:

I notice the clutch is in 3 parts as per cars. Is there no clutch release bearing as a car again?. Does the disc shown in the picture act as a release bearing?.

Morning  Doctor T

 

The clutch is a 3 part deal but there is no actual release bearing IN THE CLUTCH PARTS, the release bearing (if you can call it that)  is inside the slave cylinder piston.

 

The BMW 1200 clutch works reverse to most automobiles as the (moving pressure plate)  is closest to the engine & puts pressure on the clutch disk back towards THE REAR clamping it against the rear clutch housing.  There is a push rod that runs THROUGH the clutch assembly all the way up to the big dish spring. The push rod pushes on the center of the dish spring, taking spring pressure off of the pressure plate & THAT releases the clutch. 

[SD1]

On 8/3/2022 at 6:07 PM, dduelin said:

Kind of on topic, I bought Bernie's '07 RT after he bought a new Wethead. His '07 needed to come apart because the clutch was making a funny noise. I took it apart to find and repair the noise which was found to be axial play in the output shaft - the output shaft bearing was coming apart. The clutch was actually working fine but I replaced it as bike had 188,000 miles on the original clutch and the bike was all apart anyway. I bought the necessary parts from Beemer Boneyard. A clutch isn't a difficult job but it does require a lot of disassembly to get to it. I rode the bike 4000 miles and sold it before finding my current 'RT. That RT still ran great and looked great at 192,000 miles.

Hi Dave,

 

I am down in St. Augs. I had the bike taken to a shop in the town I bought it from and the guy has told me twice he would diagnose it and I have yet to hear from him a week later. I told him I didn't want to be a PITA but I needed to know if it was running and ridable or if it actually needs a clutch or anything else. Anyhoo, not heard back.

 

At this point I am arranging to have it brought to me here St. Augs. I really don't know if it even needs a clutch. I buy a lot of surplus cop cars and they are wrong more often then they are right about the issues the vehicles may or may not have.  I am a decent mechanic, but... I don't really have a spot to tear it all apart. Do you know anyone around JAX that could handle it if it does in fact need something significant? I can handle all the little stuff, sure its gonna need a battery and I will want new fluids and possibly new tires.

 

 

[Ponch]

Figure $2500 or thereabouts is what I have seen. The bike has to be split in half. There's a lot to go over on that bike before you want to use it. Oh yeah, check the throttle body pulleys too. :)

[SD1]

Thanks Ponch, as mentioned I couldn't get a diagnosis from the shop I originally sent it to and having it brought down, should have it in a couple of days. I honestly don't know if it even needs a clutch but will go through it and see where I am at. I am looking forward to fooling around with it.  : )

 

At least I know why these things are so unpopular, other than buying a bike and I have had dozens overs the years, never paid anywhere near that for a repair. This makes a Ducati service bill look like a bargain. I am honestly a little surprised that BMW still has a strong presence in police vehicles with a such an expensive repair for something so basic.

 

[dduelin]

On 8/9/2022 at 9:28 PM, SD1 said:

Hi Dave,

 

I am down in St. Augs. I had the bike taken to a shop in the town I bought it from and the guy has told me twice he would diagnose it and I have yet to hear from him a week later. I told him I didn't want to be a PITA but I needed to know if it was running and ridable or if it actually needs a clutch or anything else. Anyhoo, not heard back.

 

At this point I am arranging to have it brought to me here St. Augs. I really don't know if it even needs a clutch. I buy a lot of surplus cop cars and they are wrong more often then they are right about the issues the vehicles may or may not have.  I am a decent mechanic, but... I don't really have a spot to tear it all apart. Do you know anyone around JAX that could handle it if it does in fact need something significant? I can handle all the little stuff, sure its gonna need a battery and I will want new fluids and possibly new tires.

 

 

Sorry it took so long to reply. There was an indie shop up in Jacksonville but the 2 guys retired and closed up shop. Other than that I don't have a local reference for you. You might give Tom at Rennsport Motorrad in Deland a call. (386) 734-2496. I've no personal experience with him but I've stopped in a couple of times with someone else that had a bike in his shop.

 

 

[dirtrider]

49 minutes ago, SD1 said:

I am honestly a little surprised that BMW still has a strong presence in police vehicles with a such an expensive repair for something so basic.

 

Afternoon SD1

 

For a great number of police agencies the supplied BMW  fleet comes with a BMW service contract. A number of police agencies in my state switched from Harley to BMW as the BMW fleet including service contact was cheaper from BMW. 

[ADulay]

My last 3 R1200RT’s went over 100,000 miles each without clutch work.

 

Police bikes take some kind of beating as my trusted dealer says they go through clutches like they were M&M’s or something.  6000 to 10,000 miles on average!   I found that very strange for sure.

 

The attached photo isn’t about clutches but it is a bullet hole shot into a front fork by an “errant” 9mm bullet during some kind of training exercise.

 

AD

 

 

[SD1]

@dirtriderThe service contract makes sense. I have seen many of these bikes go through auction and will concur they rarely service the bikes themselves which is rare with the exception of smaller agencies. So logically, they are going to the dealer under a service contract. Thanks for that bit of info.

 

Thanks @dduelin As I said, I am sure I can do the work, its just logistically not very favorable as I live in a condo. I do sneak some minor work on my cars and bikes here and there, but a major tear down is not in the cards. I was hoping I could find an indie, I will ping Rennsport, thanks for the contact info!

 

@ADulayThat is CRaZy..... 

 

Thanks again for all the feedback. I do need to get a battery headed my way, is there a goto? I saw some AGM's for $200, are there more reasonable options, or can someone tell me the size so I can track one down?

Happy Friday Hexheads!!! 

 

 

 

[dduelin]

40 minutes ago, SD1 said:

@dirtriderThe service contract makes sense. I have seen many of these bikes go through auction and will concur they rarely service the bikes themselves which is rare with the exception of smaller agencies. So logically, they are going to the dealer under a service contract. Thanks for that bit of info.

 

Thanks @dduelin As I said, I am sure I can do the work, its just logistically not very favorable as I live in a condo. I do sneak some minor work on my cars and bikes here and there, but a major tear down is not in the cards. I was hoping I could find an indie, I will ping Rennsport, thanks for the contact info!

 

@ADulayThat is CRaZy..... 

 

Thanks again for all the feedback. I do need to get a battery headed my way, is there a goto? I saw some AGM's for $200, are there more reasonable options, or can someone tell me the size so I can track one down?

Happy Friday Hexheads!!! 

 

 

 

You can spend $200 on an Odyessy AGM but there are plenty of options for half that. It's kind of hard not to get an AGM construction battery anymore. AGM has pretty much replaced flooded "wet" lead acid batteries in the powersports market and gel batteries for powersports have gone the way of the dodo bird.

 

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=battery+for+2007+BMW+R1200RT

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, SD1 said:

 I do need to get a battery headed my way, is there a goto? I saw some AGM's for $200, are there more reasonable options, or can someone tell me the size so I can track one down?
 

Evening SD1

 

You can get an Odyssey PC-680 on Amazon (free shipping with Prime).  The PC 680 is a good long lasting battery for the hexhead  BMW 1200RT. 

 

If you plan of putting it on a battery maintainer frequently  then you will probably need a new one for the PC-680 but unless you have a fairly new battery maintainer you will probably need a new one for most newer AGM type batteries. 

 

Your 2009 1200 RT actually came with a Gel battery but do not replace with a Gel as those can have sudden seat syndrome if not treated  properly all the time every time.    

[SD1]

@dduelin TY they have the duracell at local batteries plus for $80

 

@dirtrider I can see that it has a tender on it but they told me it was dead as a donut. I will probably opt for a cheaper battery until I get the bike sorted.

 

Should update, shipper called said he will be here tomorrow.... : )

[dirtrider]

17 minutes ago, SD1 said:

 

@dirtrider I can see that it has a tender on it but they told me it was dead as a donut. I will probably opt for a cheaper battery until I get the bike sorted.

 

Evening SD1

 

I would be very surprised if it actually had a battery tender ON IT, it most likely just has the wire pigtail that an external battery tender would plug in to.

[Ponch]

4 hours ago, SD1 said:

Thanks Ponch, as mentioned I couldn't get a diagnosis from the shop I originally sent it to and having it brought down, should have it in a couple of days. I honestly don't know if it even needs a clutch but will go through it and see where I am at. I am looking forward to fooling around with it.  : )

 

At least I know why these things are so unpopular, other than buying a bike and I have had dozens overs the years, never paid anywhere near that for a repair. This makes a Ducati service bill look like a bargain. I am honestly a little surprised that BMW still has a strong presence in police vehicles with a such an expensive repair for something so basic.

 

 

BMWs work well as an authority bike in spite of the maintenance. If one looks at the vehicle tests that Michigan State Police and the LA Sheriffs do, the BMW comes out on top overall every time. 

[SD1]

I agree, I am a miser about vehicles and I never would have bought it if I didn't think very highly of BMW motorrad. I am a little shell shocked about the cost of the clutch, but it will still wind up being a "cheap" bike even if I do have to replace it and having it here I can probably offset paying full tilt for the replacement. I budgeted tires, brakes and a full service on top of a major repair so should pan out.

 

Also, while I know they are not crazy popular in the RTP configuration, having been fully serviced with a new clutch, lower miles and reasonably good cosmetics, I will be able to get the higher end of the market for it when its time to part ways.

 

For now I am admittedly a little amped to put my hands on it. I am small dealer and go through lots of cars and bikes and don't get excited too often so its kind of fun to look forward to something!

[SD1]

4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Evening SD1

 

I would be very surprised if it actually had a battery tender ON IT, it most likely just has the wire pigtail that an external battery tender would plug in to.

 

You can clearly see it in this pic, looks like it might be zip tied to the rear crash bar. But based on the PO's comments, its been sitting and find it highly unlikely that it was plugged in. Looks clean though.

[dirtrider]

7 hours ago, SD1 said:

 

 

You can clearly see it in this pic, looks like it might be zip tied to the rear crash bar. But based on the PO's comments, its been sitting and find it highly unlikely that it was plugged in. Looks clean though.

Morning SD1

 

I don't see a battery tender in the picture, all I see is a fused pigtail leading from the battery that an external battery tender would plug in to.   

[SD1]

Happy Sunday all, the RTP is in the house...!!! As expected its in really good shape, with the Caveat that it was a marked traffic enforcement bike. The right valve cover does have a notable scuff and the crash bars have minor scuffs and there are scratches around the plastics but having had many police units over the years, it is very minor and I am very happy with the bike cosmetically. If this were a civilian bike I wouldn't be mortified, but it looks like it has 75k miles, not 25k.

 

So clearly it has been sitting. The gas has turned, its nots awful, but bad enough I am going to siphon it out. I am going to go grab a battery, it has 2 btw, there is a deep cycle in the right compartment next to the tank, I doubt this is necessary for normal civilian use, but any comments are welcome. I am going to swap the plugs, get some fresh gas in it, spike it with some seafoam and see if it will fire. Rear tire not dead but will replace.

 

I will be futzing with it for the next few days to make a diagnosis of the clutch and the overall running condition of the bike, will update as I go. 

 

I already stripped off the police stickers and gave it a rough wash. Thanks again for the help and feedback, it is much appreciated! 

[dirtrider]

14 minutes ago, SD1 said:

Happy Sunday all, the RTP is in the house...!!! As expected its in really good shape, with the Caveat that it was a marked traffic enforcement bike. The right valve cover does have a notable scuff and the crash bars have minor scuffs and there are scratches around the plastics but having had many police units over the years, it is very minor and I am very happy with the bike cosmetically. If this were a civilian bike I wouldn't be mortified, but it looks like it has 75k miles, not 25k.

 

So clearly it has been sitting. The gas has turned, its nots awful, but bad enough I am going to siphon it out. I am going to go grab a battery, it has 2 btw, there is a deep cycle in the right compartment next to the tank, I doubt this is necessary for normal civilian use, but any comments are welcome. I am going to swap the plugs, get some fresh gas in it, spike it with some seafoam and see if it will fire. Rear tire not dead but will replace.

 

I will be futzing with it for the next few days to make a diagnosis of the clutch and the overall running condition of the bike, will update as I go. 

 

I already stripped off the police stickers and gave it a rough wash. Thanks again for the help and feedback, it is much appreciated! 

Afternoon  SD1

 

Better choice than using Seafoam is to use Techron concentrate, Seafoam doesn't do much for sour fuel varnish buildup but Techron is about the best there is to free up injectors & clean the fuel system.  

 

Just be a bit careful in what you put in the fuel tank as the BMW 1200RT hexhead does not have a replaceable fuel filter (at least not made to be replaceable anyhow).  Techron is approved by BMW. 

 

Also, if that motorcycle has or had a dead battery then be sure to do new TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) re-learn after new battery install. 

 

TPS re-learn procedure-----

 

*Disconnect the lead to the battery's positive  post for about 3 minutes.
Then  
*Reconnect the positive lead to the battery's positive terminal.
Then
*Switch on the ignition. (do not start the engine) 
Then
*Without starting the engine, fully open/close the throttle once or twice so that the control unit of the BMW engine management system can register the throttle-valve positions.
Then
*Switch off the ignition.

 

That's all there is to it__

[SD1]

Thanks for the tip. I drained about 3 gallons out of it and it was pretty bad. Not full on varnish but, on its way. I did the TPS relearn, added 2 gals of fresh gas and about 6oz's of Techron. 

 

Good news, turns over freely, bad news, would not fire. Tomorrow I will get some plugs but I am guessing injectors may be fouled as well?

 

It looks awesome though..... : )

 

Thanks again for the help!

[dirtrider]

4 minutes ago, SD1 said:

Thanks for the tip. I drained about 3 gallons out of it and it was pretty bad. Not full on varnish but, on its way. I did the TPS relearn, added 2 gals of fresh gas and about 6oz's of Techron. 

 

Good news, turns over freely, bad news, would not fire. Tomorrow I will get some plugs but I am guessing injectors may be fouled as well?

 

It looks awesome though..... : )

 

Thanks again for the help!

Afternoon SD1

 

Can you hear the fuel pump run for 2 to 3 seconds at key-on?

 

Also, try holding the throttle at about 1/8 to 1/4 open during cranking. 

[SD1]

Good question, I don't think I did, hold on.

 

I don't think so.... assumes its the tell tale .5 sec whirrrr? I hear a little something, maybe the throttles? but I don't think I hear the pump

 

[dirtrider]

8 minutes ago, SD1 said:

Good question, I don't think I did, hold on.

 

I don't think so.... assumes its the tell tale .5 sec whirrrr? I hear a little something, maybe the throttles? but I don't think I hear the pump

 

Afternoon SD1

 

Yes, both side idle steppers re-zero at each key-on so those whirr a little. 

 

The fuel pump is on the L/H side top of the fuel tank. 

[SD1]

It is not priming

 

[dirtrider]

7 minutes ago, SD1 said:

It is not priming

 

Afternoon SD1

 

That probably means it has a stuck impeller inside the fuel pump but there are other things it could be like a failed FPC (Fuel Pump Controller), or no fueling computer signal to the FPC. 

[SD1]

Sounds about right, I would not be surprised at all if the pump were locked up. I will get back into it tomorrow. Think I should consider addressing injectors? 

 

Thanks so much for the assist!

[dirtrider]

49 minutes ago, SD1 said:

Sounds about right, I would not be surprised at all if the pump were locked up. I will get back into it tomorrow. Think I should consider addressing injectors? 

 

Thanks so much for the assist!

Evening SD1

 

Personally I wouldn't worry about the injectors until you get the pump running.  

[SD1]

I have been digging around and sounds like it is at least possible the FPC is bad.... but assume you would have said as much if you thought so. Seems it was a bit more problematic on the earlier 1200's ??

 

I went ahead and ordered a pump rebuild kit as I have had failed pump motors in the past and think if I have to pull it out, I may as well put a new motor in it. The rebuild kit was only $75.  My thought is that its a 12-13yo bike and sat with bad fuel for some period of time, even if its salvageable, I would rather err on the side of a preventative repair.

 

And is there a way to jump the FPC to test it and the fuel pump? Would you cough up the money for the new FPC or do people bypass as a longterm solution?

[dirtrider]

10 hours ago, SD1 said:

I have been digging around and sounds like it is at least possible the FPC is bad.... but assume you would have said as much if you thought so. Seems it was a bit more problematic on the earlier 1200's ??

 

I went ahead and ordered a pump rebuild kit as I have had failed pump motors in the past and think if I have to pull it out, I may as well put a new motor in it. The rebuild kit was only $75.  My thought is that its a 12-13yo bike and sat with bad fuel for some period of time, even if its salvageable, I would rather err on the side of a preventative repair.

 

And is there a way to jump the FPC to test it and the fuel pump? Would you cough up the money for the new FPC or do people bypass as a longterm solution?

Morning  SD1

 

I did mention the FPC as a possibility (5 posts above).

 

The 2009 came with the more robust "high fin" FPC & those were pretty decent but a few did fail. The later 2009 & the replacement FPC (the best FPC to use) is the high fin FPC that is black powder coated. 

 

If the bottom of the FPC (potted area) is blistered or distorted then a good possibility that the FPC is failed.

 

Yes, you can jump 12v/ B+ directly to the fuel pump (you have to remove the FPC from the pump pass-through assembly to get to the pump  wires down in the well).

 

Wires going from bottom of FPC to pump =
    Yellow = (B+)
     Blue  =   (-) 

 

   At top connector--
    Brown =     (ground)
    blue/yellow=(B+)

 

It is easier to just run a (15 amp fused) 12v  &  (ground) directly from battery to the pump wires. If pump is stuck be sure that it is a fused wire. 

 

There are some aftermarket FPC jumper harnesses available if you search for them on-line.  

 

With that sour smelling fuel a stuck pump impeller is probably more likely.

 

 

[SD1]

Sorry, I am not the best communicator, I think you would have directed me to the FPC v. the stuck impeller if you thought that was the more likely culprit.

 

Hopefully have the kit by the weekend and go at it again.

 

Thanks again for all the help! 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, SD1 said:

Sorry, I am not the best communicator, I think you would have directed me to the FPC v. the stuck impeller if you thought that was the more likely culprit.

 

Hopefully have the kit by the weekend and go at it again.

 

Thanks again for all the help! 

Morning SD1

 

I posted it in the likelihood of importance. My first (SWAG) is a stuck  pump impeller, the FPC would be down the list a ways. (FPC's usually fail in service not from extended sitting or storage. If your present FPC is black then the likelihood of failure is pretty low.  

 

 

[SD1]

Your insight is appreciated. I got distracted as there is a lot of info about the FPS and not that much about the pump itself.

[dirtrider]

39 minutes ago, SD1 said:

Your insight is appreciated. I got distracted as there is a lot of info about the FPS and not that much about the pump itself.

Afternoon SD1

 

Typically FPC's (the early low fin & some later high fin) fail while riding not while parked.

 

Not many pump failures (*except leaks at the cracked output threaded boss) but I have seen a few fail (seize up)  from extended storage with E-10 fuel that turned sour & froze the pump up).

 

Remember on the BMW fuel pumps that the fuel actually flows through the inside of the pump motor to both cool it & lubricate it. 

[beemer chuck]

if the bike was parked with ethanol fuel, then it may have ruined the pump. My son's SV 650 sat unused for three years and the fuel pump and wiring were completely corroded. 
If you need to replace the clutch, both BeemerShop and beemer boneyard have clutch parts for far less than OEM. About $550 for a complete clutch set-up.

[Mike T]

I have a new OEM clutch along with shaft seals and bolts. I bought the parts in 2008 to do a clutch job on a friends 2006 R1200RT that ended up getting done by the dealer under warranty so the parts have been sitting in my garage since.  Here are the PNs

 

23127667733 Clutch Plate

21212332469  Six bolts (they are one time use)

23127667733 Shaft Seal for gear box

23127683995 Seal for gear box?

 

You would have to verify that these pns would fit your bike.  Parts a in original packaging and I have the original receipt. $120 for all of it.