96 R1100RT

[JustPete]

New here and to BMW ownership. I picked up a really nice RT today, mainly because of the crazy low mileage for a 1996, only 9800 miles!!, and I got it for what I think was a damn good price.  Its a very clean bike and looks as if its been well taken care of besides a few minor issues. It looks like its always been stored indoors and doesn't have any indication of rodents. I just got it home today and haven't gotten too deep into it yet (it got cold and was raining), but the bike does turn over and all the lights work (radio doesn't... bummer). Im pretty handy and can turn a wrench so I have no problem digging in. It also came with the Clymer manual, some extra parts and a little paperwork. It was stored for a while and I was told it had last ran about a year ago with no issues, but now it wont start. I read up on all the usual stuff here; HES, kickstand switch, the obvious injector issues from old fuel and (god forbid) old wiring. My question would be, since it has such low mileage, would the HES really be an issue now?

 

I may replace the battery since it seems kind of weak and the manual says it could cause issues with the fuel injection and ignition system. The tires are coded as 2017, but they look shot. The front brake has no feel in it until the lever is fully engaged (may just need bled, but Ive never had ABS on a bike). I can hear the radio come one through the speakers, but cannot change stations or see anything on the display. Stock cassette player! Lol 

[wbw6cos]

That is a good looking red RT you have there.

[dirtrider]

7 hours ago, JustPete said:

New here and to BMW ownership. I picked up a really nice RT today, mainly because of the crazy low mileage for a 1996, only 9800 miles!!, and I got it for what I think was a damn good price.  Its a very clean bike and looks as if its been well taken care of besides a few minor issues. It looks like its always been stored indoors and doesn't have any indication of rodents. I just got it home today and haven't gotten too deep into it yet (it got cold and was raining), but the bike does turn over and all the lights work (radio doesn't... bummer). Im pretty handy and can turn a wrench so I have no problem digging in. It also came with the Clymer manual, some extra parts and a little paperwork. It was stored for a while and I was told it had last ran about a year ago with no issues, but now it wont start. I read up on all the usual stuff here; HES, kickstand switch, the obvious injector issues from old fuel and (god forbid) old wiring. My question would be, since it has such low mileage, would the HES really be an issue now?

 

I may replace the battery since it seems kind of weak and the manual says it could cause issues with the fuel injection and ignition system. The tires are coded as 2017, but they look shot. The front brake has no feel in it until the lever is fully engaged (may just need bled, but Ive never had ABS on a bike). I can hear the radio come one through the speakers, but cannot change stations or see anything on the display. Stock cassette player! Lol 

 

Morning   JustPete

 

Do start with a decent battery in that motorcycle as low cranking voltage can really effect the engine starting. (if under 10v while cranking then all bets are off on it starting)

 

Make sure the side stand it UP when trying to start engine.

 

As for the HES, age & heat cycles can degrade the HES wire insulation so that sure could be an issue (especially if that motorcycle was washed then not started & thoroughly dried out before parking). It's very/very seldom that  the HES (magnetic gate) itself the fails, it is the insulation on the wires going to/into the HES that crumble then allow moisture to effect the wires & cause cross talk on the HES signal. 

 

That motorcycle has a somewhat high pressure fuel injection system (for it's time anyhow) so any in-tank degradation on the high pressure side of the in-tank fuel supply can cause a no-start or no-run. The in-tank U shaped high pressure hose is a common problem as those can split or get tiny pin holes, sometimes difficult to see or find.  

 

After a new, or good, battery install remove fuse #5 for about 15-20 minutes, this resets the Motronic  (fueling computer) in case the Motronic has locked out. Then re-install fuse #5.

 

Once you get it cranking good then check for spark at the spark plugs (check one side at at time while leaving the other side connected as it is a continuous loop lost spark type spark system). You need to see a snappy bluish colored spark across a good sized spark gap (I usually test at about 1/8"- 3/16" spark gap)

 

If it passes the spark test then move on to testing the fuel system's fuel flow & output at/through the fuel return line. The BMW 1100 has a sort of built in fuel pressure flow tester as fuel return output must pass through the fuel pressure regulator before returning so a decent fuel flow out of the rear side fuel return hose tells you that you have enough fuel flow at enough pressure to  run that motorcycle.

 

But keep in mind that you only have 2-3 seconds of fuel pump run at key-on, then the pump doesn't run again until the engine is cranking or running.

 

If the above doesn't point to a problem then check for 12v on the green wires at the fuel injectors then put a NOID light across a fuel injector connector & look for NOID light flashing as the engine cranks over (no flash means no injection command).

 

This should be enough to give you a direction to follow on getting it running, or at least a path to follow, then you can come back here & ask more specific questions to define your troubleshooting.     

 

[JustPete]

Thanks Dirtrider! I'll comb through the bike today and get it figured out.

 

wbw6cos. Thanks, I got lucky for sure. I wanted a bike for my daughter to ride more often with me, and stumbled across this one. She loves riding, but she hates the seat on my Harely Lowrider (Dude-bro Saddleman seat the PO added).  

[Paul De]

Nice color RT,.  Looks really clean too.  As usual Dirt Rider provided all the right info and approach to fire that purty bike back up, so I digress on one thing I saw in the picture you posted.

 

Once you get the start issue sorted, it looks like the next step is replacing the OEM brake lines which deteriorate with  age and those rubber hoses are well past their service life.  No need for a fancy computer as you can purge the lines with a mighty vac and pumping the the brake lever releasing the pressure at the bleeder routine.  If you find out that you need to replace fuel lines & filter you will have the tank off and it would be a great time to do the brake lines too as you will have good access to the bleeders on the anti-lock module which helps with an air free brake lines.

 

[9Mary7]

Damn, that thing is beautiful!!!!

 

Good find

[Uncle Mike]

I picked up a 99 R1100RT at the end of last year with less then 13.000 miles. Replaced all fluids, brake lines with Galphers, replaced the 10 year old tires, had the HES sensor rewired and new alternator belt at the same time. Werner helped me with the gas tank and besides having the original fuel filter with the stamp date from BMW, some of the lines where starting to chafe and come apart especially the one with the preformed bend to it so all internal lines where replaced. Updated the cam chain tensioner on the left side. My ABS light was coming on and it came down to the battery being replaced to correct it. So I put a little money into it to get it up to speed but it seems to be running fine now. 

 

I purchased it for 2000.00 cash and I'm happy I have a motorcycle now that I can still perform some of the maintenance on by my own.

 

Only problem I have is the center stand will not retract all the way up by itself. I took it off and cleaned and lubed it but it still does it so I just kick it up the rest of the way with my foot. 

 

If you remove the radio the side pocket makes a great place to keep your tools and such. It is huge. 

[szurszewski]

My first modern bmw was that same bike but you got a way prettier color (mine was glacier green, Which I think was maybe the least cool bmw color so far). 
 

Style points for the daisy chain work and not using the grips as a tie down, but you’d be ever better served to tie down the front at the forks next time instead of the bars. I mean, if it ever wants to ride on a trailer again

 

Enjoy it and keep posting pics 

[JustPete]

 I pulled the panels off today and started sorting things out. The battery is holding a good charge, but the terminals were not hooked up very well. It looks like someone was in a hurry or tired of messing with it when they had put things back together since it was missing some body screws and some screws were half cross-threaded. I'm seeing a lot of dry rotted shrink wrap around some of the wires, so I'll be stripping it down a bit further as soon as I can get my other bike off the lift. Im guessing the HES is going to need replacing/rewired. There is also constant seepage from a sensor/fitting above the oil sight glass, so there is a good bit of oil grime around the kickstand area. The plugs look good and have spark. The left plug had some carbon buildup and a weaker looking spark, but I cleaned it up and little and reinstalled. Its looking like its not getting fuel at all and I'm not hearing the fuel pump at all when I turn the key on. I pulled the #5 fuze and tried again, but to no avail. I'll have to make some room to empty out the tank before I can pull all that mess off. Lol

 

I brake lines seem alright, but the MC shows sings of leaking/damage. Its on the list of to-do's.

 

I was tieing the bike down in the cold rain yesterday and the bars were the quickest way without damaging the body panels. I didn't like using them as a tiedown point either, but it didn't move on my 27 mile drive home through the VA roads and Hampton Tunnel.

 

GOOD TIMES!! Thanks for the wisdom all. Lol

[dirtrider]

11 minutes ago, JustPete said:

 I pulled the panels off today and started sorting things out. The battery is holding a good charge, but the terminals were not hooked up very well. It looks like someone was in a hurry or tired of messing with it when they had put things back together since it was missing some body screws and some screws were half cross-threaded. I'm seeing a lot of dry rotted shrink wrap around some of the wires, so I'll be stripping it down a bit further as soon as I can get my other bike off the lift. Im guessing the HES is going to need replacing/rewired. There is also constant seepage from a sensor/fitting above the oil sight glass, so there is a good bit of oil grime around the kickstand area. The plugs look good and have spark. The left plug had some carbon buildup and a weaker looking spark, but I cleaned it up and little and reinstalled. Its looking like its not getting fuel at all and I'm not hearing the fuel pump at all when I turn the key on. I pulled the #5 fuze and tried again, but to no avail. I'll have to make some room to empty out the tank before I can pull all that mess off. Lol

 

I brake lines seem alright, but the MC shows sings of leaking/damage. Its on the list of to-do's.

Afternoon JustPete

 

There is also constant seepage from a sensor/fitting above the oil sight glass-- That is probably the OPS (Oil Pressure Switch). You can usually match one up from a local auto parts store. 

 

You have to listen quickly to hear the fuel pump run as it only runs for a couple of seconds at key-on then has to sit a bit with key-off to run for a couple of seconds again at next key on. 

 

What does the fuel smell like when you open the fuel filler cap & sniff? If it has a foul (degraded)  fuel smell then you will probably have to remove the fuel tank & remove the fuel pump pass-through/fuel pump assembly. Old E-10 can mess up the internal fuel pump fairly quickly if stored with that foul fuel in it. 

[JustPete]

Good to know. The fuel tank doesn't smell bad at all, but there is no telling when it was last drained. 

 

[dirtrider]

12 minutes ago, JustPete said:

Good to know. The fuel tank doesn't smell bad at all, but there is no telling when it was last drained. 

 

Afternoon JustPete

 

Yes, there is no way to know what the last owner was up to so he might have drained out the stale fuel & put new in.

 

You can disconnect the fuel pump pig tail harness from the motorcycle side then check for 12v between green/white wire & brown wire for a couple of seconds at key on or during engine cranking. (will tell you if external or internal problem)

[JustPete]

So... I decided to go ahead and pull the tank after i pulled the filler neck and notice a lot of trash around the top. I may have put it in there by taking it off myself. The harness may look bad, but its really just the shrink wrap that has crumbled away. After pulling the cover I see that the battery is brand new (3/21)! Yay! But... the work continues! 

[dirtrider]

17 minutes ago, JustPete said:

So... I decided to go ahead and pull the tank after i pulled the filler neck and notice a lot of trash around the top. I may have put it in there by taking it off myself. The harness may look bad, but its really just the shrink wrap that has crumbled away. After pulling the cover I see that the battery is brand new (3/21)! Yay! But... the work continues! 

 

Evening  JustPete

 

That harness covering disintegrating is pretty typical on the older BMW 1100/1150 bikes. Even well cared for BMW's had that problem so you don't have an outlier there. Just re-wrap with dedicated harness wrapping tape, or cover with convoluted split wire harness covering. Do not just use standard electrical tape.  

[MarinPhil]

I would like to join in and help, but cant after seeing that sign on your fridg. 

 

 

Not the place for this and not what this place is about.

 

Whip

 

Edited May 18, 2021 by Whip

[JustPete]

Yet you took the time to comment? Grow up dude.

[JustPete]

I ordered a fuel pump due to the trash in the tank. The filter sock on the pump was opened up so maybe it  inhaled some trash and quit. I've flushed out the tank and have been letting it dry these past few days and working on my other bikes. I inspected the rest of the fuel pump and haven't noticed any other issues with the hoses but I'll check them again before I put it back in

[dirtrider]

16 minutes ago, JustPete said:

I ordered a fuel pump due to the trash in the tank. The filter sock on the pump was opened up so maybe it  inhaled some trash and quit. I've flushed out the tank and have been letting it dry these past few days and working on my other bikes. I inspected the rest of the fuel pump and haven't noticed any other issues with the hoses but I'll check them again before I put it back in

Morning JustPete

 

Inspect that U shaped high pressure hose very carefully. Very difficult to find small pin holes or ply separation or even a very small split. 

 

On an older 1100/1150 boxer bike it is a REALLY/REALLY/REALLY good idea to replace the U shaped hose when into the tank as those have & do fail quite frequently on older motorcycles. 

 

Also, I can't stress enough to use correct fuel injection in-tank hose clamps as standard worm-drive type clamps will eventually allow hose failure then a dead motorcycle (that can be  far from home in the middle of the night).

[JustPete]

Thanks Dirtrider, Ill check it out.

I had read on here somewhere else about not using the worm gear clamps. I guess I will hit the shops today and search for

 the right clamps/crimpers. 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, JustPete said:

Thanks Dirtrider, Ill check it out.

I had read on here somewhere else about not using the worm gear clamps. I guess I will hit the shops today and search for

 the right clamps/crimpers. 

Afternoon  JustPete

 

You don't necessarily need the crimp type clamps as they do make high pressure fuel injection clamps with screws  (they are just not worm drive type).

 

You just need clamps that have a solid metal band surrounding the hose (no worm teeth slots contacting the hose )

[JustPete]

I hear ya. I'll find them. I had to get my other bikes out of the way so can start on the RT. I took another look at the HES wires, and had to cut the plastic cover off. It was hard and wouldnt let me disconnect the plug. After playing with for a second I could see the wires to the sensor were all shot and crumbling. 

[Lowndes]

JustPete,

 

GSAddict here does a very nice job rewiring your HES with heat rated wiring and a new connector. See pics of one he did for me here: https://goo.gl/photos/xriJRtXqd1mHDmZ78

 

I'll PM you his email address.  He is in Canada and there are there are several very particular steps on the customs form needed when you send your old HES to him in Canada.

 

He checks and re-uses your sensors and mounting plate as the sensors themselves seldom fail.

 

Also, BEFORE you touch the HES on your bike, make a scratch index mark from the HES plate to the engine so you can re-install the plate in the exact same place when it returns.

 

Good job finding the problem before it stranded you.  I've done it both ways - your way is best!!

 

Lowndes

[Lowndes]

Also, on the fuel line clamps, Amazon has an assortment kit with the clampling pliars for $29: https://www.amazon.com/VIGRUE-Stainless-Stepless-Securing-Automotive/dp/B081N855XB/ref=sr_1_14?crid=3FS0KJ9DGNA5B&dchild=1&keywords=oetiker+clamps&qid=1621593379&sprefix=oetiker%2Caps%2C284&sr=8-14

 

The good thing about the Oetiker type clamp is that when it is "clamped" you know it's tight enough (select the correct size;  just fits over the end of the tube).  With screw types (and not a lot of experience with this) you're never sure it's tight enough or too tight.  I guessed wrong on my first try and the "U tube" came off about 10 miles from home on the first ride after doing the lines and filter.  On the second try I got the Oetiker clamps.  No problems.

 

[Dave P]

Pete- yep, that's what my HES looked like after getting stranded on the NY Thruway in the rain and before I sent my HES to the GS Addict for a rewire. 
 

I could be wrong here, but I heard in the mid 90s (my bike is a 96) BMW was required (?) to use biodegradable materials in their vehicles and they chose to use those materials on wiring insulation. Is that true? Seems stupid to me. Maybe Ive got my story wrong. It's happened before. 🙂 Dave

[JustPete]

 Hi guys, so I finally got it back together after throwing some new parts at it. HES, Alternator belt, fuel pump and filters. Cleaned out the fuel tank too since it was full of trash. Went to fire it up today, and still not firing. It seems to not be getting any fuel still. I pulled the plug and injectors and cleaned them up a bit. The left head seems to be pushing a little fuel through, but the right side has nada. It is getting fuel to the injectors, but doesnt seem to be firing. I did pull the fuses to try and reset the Motronic system stated above. ...Nevermind. I dont thing I waited the whole 15-20 minutes... I'll try that tomorrow.

Thinking of throwing some new injectors at it while I have it there. There was a lot of trash and crud in the lines when i pulled the tank and changed the fuel pump. Thinking they may be clogged. Wouldnt hurt either I suppose

[Jim Moore]

I've read about a place that cleans injectors. Not sure what the name is, sorry. I've also heard of guys buying R1200 injectors. Not sure where you get them. that's not too helpful either, I guess.

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, JustPete said:

 Hi guys, so I finally got it back together after throwing some new parts at it. HES, Alternator belt, fuel pump and filters. Cleaned out the fuel tank too since it was full of trash. Went to fire it up today, and still not firing. It seems to not be getting any fuel still. I pulled the plug and injectors and cleaned them up a bit. The left head seems to be pushing a little fuel through, but the right side has nada. It is getting fuel to the injectors, but doesnt seem to be firing. I did pull the fuses to try and reset the Motronic system stated above. ...Nevermind. I dont thing I waited the whole 15-20 minutes... I'll try that tomorrow.

Thinking of throwing some new injectors at it while I have it there. There was a lot of trash and crud in the lines when i pulled the tank and changed the fuel pump. Thinking they may be clogged. Wouldnt hurt either I suppose

Morning JustPete

 

Your problem might be plugged fuel injectors (especially if you had old cruddy fuel in the tank) or could be low fuel pressure to the injectors (did you install a new high pressure  U  shaped hose inside the fuel tank? If not then make sure (verify) that you high pressure fuel flowing to the injectors.

 

JUST having fuel to the injectors is not enough, it needs to be around 40+ psi to make the fuel injectors  spray correctly. 

 

You can test the fuel pressure by looking for return fuel flowing from the (rear) fuel return hose as that means you have enough fuel flow at enough pressure to open the return flow on the fuel pressure regulator.

 

To test you only get about 2 seconds of fuel flow with key turned on then you don't get pump run again until the engine is actually cranking.  

[JustPete]

That's what I'm thinking as well, not enough fuel pressure. I inspected the U hose on the pump and it seemed fine.  I'll check the return line today and go ahead and order the new injectors anyway. Euromotoelectrics  has "upgraded EV14 Bosch injectors" that seem to be a good replacement. I figured that right side injector was bad anyway, so i started to strip it anyway so i'll need to replace the set anyway. 

[Lowndes]

On 6/17/2021 at 9:39 AM, JustPete said:

That's what I'm thinking as well, not enough fuel pressure. I inspected the U hose on the pump and it seemed fine.  I'll check the return line today and go ahead and order the new injectors anyway. Euromotoelectrics  has "upgraded EV14 Bosch injectors" that seem to be a good replacement. I figured that right side injector was bad anyway, so i started to strip it anyway so i'll need to replace the set anyway. 

 

JustPete,

 

You will need the adapters/spacers with the EV14 injectors.  https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/finjev14-ev6.htm

 

Another option is Injector Rehab in New Jersey.  A good writeup is here: https://advrider.com/f/threads/1200gs-injector-adapter-kits-for-1100-and-1150.1187011/

 

Keith Gibbons is the owner and good guy.  I've purchased three sets of injectors from him for my old bikes.  He sells new Bosch and refurbished (and matched, with flow charts) Bosch injectors.  Very fast service, too.

 

These are the pics of the swap on my '99 RT:  https://goo.gl/photos/oQ8BBhTRRHQHPW5B7

 

NO problems from any of the injectors since '17.  

 

I would strongly recommend cleaning the TB's, especially the tiny air passages TO and FROM the BBS on each TB.  I used a big spray can of cleaer on each TB.  Just cleaning made a huge difference in idling and low RPM smoothness.  It's a fairly easy job with good results.  TB cleaning pics here:  https://goo.gl/photos/zvAQ7QXAtYvEgNQQA

 

 

Before cleaning, at about 45K, lots of black crud buildup:

 

[JustPete]

Thanks Lowndes! I'll check it out. I tried to order from Euro yesterday, but something wouldnt let me complete the purchase. 

 

I still cant tell if Im getting anything from my Fuel pump. Ive got fuel through the lines but its just gravity fed pressure. My fuzes and relay look fine, so I may have a break in a wire somewhere or the Motronic is locked out, or just not working or broke? I'm running out of ideas

 

[dirtrider]

43 minutes ago, JustPete said:

 

I still cant tell if Im getting anything from my Fuel pump. Ive got fuel through the lines but its just gravity fed pressure. My fuzes and relay look fine, so I may have a break in a wire somewhere or the Motronic is locked out, or just not working or broke? I'm running out of ideas

 

Afternoon JustPete

 

  You only get about 2 seconds of fuel flow (from fuel pump) with key turned on, then you don't get pump run again until the engine is actually cranking.  

 

Also, make sure the side stand is UP.

 

Unlikely, but your Motronic could be locked out so remove fuse #5 for about 1/2 hour then re-install & try your fuel flow test again.

 

If still no pump run & no pressurized flow then post back & we can help you jump 12v to the pump for a test that way.   

 

 

[Lowndes]

JustPete,

 

Whatever you do, do what Dirtrider says do.  That will get you going before anything else.

 

 

[JustPete]

I just got it to fire up!! I got it to hit and it ran for about two seconds then quit, but it ran!! Woohoo!! Lol. Still thinking its starving for fuel, and I do have new injectors on the way. But hey, it ran, so Im super stoked! Thanks everyone!

[Dave P]

JustPete- I sent my injectors to Injector RX in Texas I think it was for cleaning and evaluation. Cost me about 50 total with shipping. 
 

From your earlier pics I'd like to say you have a beautiful RT! Love the red! Get her on the road!  Dave

[JustPete]

Well, my initial success has lead me back to Square one. I pulled and cleaned both throttle bodies and found them all sorts of gummed up and nasty. But its back together and back to not getting fuel. Ill just wait on the injectors to make sure I don't screw anything up. 

 

Thanks Dave. I cant wait to get her running and get down the road! Unfortunately all of my bikes are broke right now. 00' HD Lowrider has a random electrical issue I cant seem to find (No spark). 91'HD Electra Sport has a bad trans leak (main shaft seal, behind the inner primary cover. Easy fix, but I don't have the space to work on it. BMW is on the lift and Lowrider is on the jack. I'm really looking forward to the Beemer though!

[JustPete]

Oh help me Jord Lesus!! I got my new injectors in today, and I can feel pressure in all of the lines and everything. Turned it over and got nothing. Knew I had to be getting fuel so I pulled the plugs to check. Double checked my spark, and I got no damn spark now. Plugs still looked dry too, so I'm still not certain I'm getting flow through the injectors. I didnt unplug anything besides the negative lead since I got it to fire the other today. The gremlins have definitely got me. 

 

My 00' HD Low Rider still has no spark. All new charging system, battery and coil. I'm cursed! 

[JustPete]

I cleaned the TBs while I waited in the injectors. They were Nasty with some sticky mess. Made sure all the passages were clean too. Even cleaned inside the heads a little. 

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, JustPete said:

I cleaned the TBs while I waited in the injectors. They were Nasty with some sticky mess. Made sure all the passages were clean too. Even cleaned inside the heads a little. 

 

Morning  JustPete

 

You are kind of jumping around with no real plan for success. 

 

So tell us (in detail) what you have done so far--

 

About doing the fuel return hose flow test?-- Are you getting a good flow of fuel out of the fuel return hose (we need to know this to help you).

 

What did you do about that HES & HES wiring?-- Did you rewire or replace the HES?  

 

Is fuse #5 good, not just looks good but actually passing current through it. 

 

You need more than just feeling or guessing there is enough fuel pressure to start & run. You need actual 40+ psi of fuel PRESSURE to the fuel injectors to start & run. (a fuel return hose flow test will verify this)  

 

You also need a good clean HES signal to the  Motronic to start & run (is your HES up to that task???????????????)

 

You need a good strong bluish colored spark to start it so that also needs to be addressed. (this requires the side stand UP,  side stand switch working (or switch by-passed), decent battery voltage during engine cranking, etc) 

 

 

 

  

 

 

[JustPete]

I have replaced the HES with a new unit from Euromotive electrics and verified the wires and connections were good. I also replaced the fuel pump and filter (Quantum), injectors (Injector Rehab EV14) and a few of the fuel lines where needed. The fuzes also checked out good. I will have to test the fuel return to make sure the pressure is good, but I can see and feel that I am getting pressure in the lines when I turn the ignition on. I also replaced the alternator belt.

 

Before I cleaned the throttle bodies and replaced the injectors yesterday I had a very good, nice blue spark, but now I have no spark at all.  I will check the voltage today, but I know the battery is good and I have kept in on the tender. Sorry for being all over the place, I got pretty frustrated with it yesterday. Seems like when I fix one thing, something else breaks. 

 

[dirtrider]

11 minutes ago, JustPete said:

I have replaced the HES with a new unit from Euromotive electrics and verified the wires and connections were good. I also replaced the fuel pump and filter (Quantum), injectors (Injector Rehab EV14) and a few of the fuel lines where needed. The fuzes also checked out good. I will have to test the fuel return to make sure the pressure is good, but I can see and feel that I am getting pressure in the lines when I turn the ignition on. I also replaced the alternator belt.

 

Before I cleaned the throttle bodies and replaced the injectors yesterday I had a very good, nice blue spark, but now I have no spark at all.  I will check the voltage today, but I know the battery is good and I have kept in on the tender. Sorry for being all over the place, I got pretty frustrated with it yesterday. Seems like when I fix one thing, something else breaks. 

 

Morning  JustPete

 

Check your side stand for being up!

 

With the work that you have done make sure that you haven't pulled the spark plug wires partially  out of the ignition coil (easy to do).

 

Also try removing fuse #5 for a good 1/2 hour, then re-install as that will re-set the Motronic in case that got locked out during the HES work. 

 

If still no spark & you have 12v power to the ignition coil & Motronic then make sure that timing cup on the back of the lower belt pulley is correctly centered (glued to back side of pulley with locating tit in the slot).

 

With ignition key ON, turn the crankshaft & should hear the fuel pump come on for a couple of seconds  every time the timing cup notch triggers the HES.

 

 

 

[JustPete]

Yes sir, I had made sure the side stand is up and checked to make sure the plug wires are still connected. 

[dirtrider]

5 minutes ago, JustPete said:

Yes sir, I had made sure the side stand is up and checked to make sure the plug wires are still connected. 

Morning  JustPete

 

OK, next do the fuse #5 removal to reset the Motronic,  then next try the, key-ON turn the crankshaft test, to see if you can hear the fuel pump turn on. This will hopefully give us a direction to look in.    

[JustPete]

I got it figured out and it runs! The lower pulley bolt had backed out and wasnt turning . I got it back together and made sure everything was fitting. I was hearing some metal to metal sounds from the HES area and as I was listening to it, it cut off on me again. I did not try and restart it after that. I'll let it cool down and remove the pulley and rotor to see what the issue is. Hopefully its not screwed up.

Ran like a champ though! Thanks for the help, 

[JustPete]

Well, I messed something up! The rotor just ate my new HES. Haha! Just my luck!  🤣🤣🍻

[dirtrider]

19 minutes ago, JustPete said:

Well, I messed something up! The rotor just ate my new HES. Haha! Just my luck!  🤣🤣🍻

 

 

Afternoon  JustPete

 

I sounds like you didn't have the  pulley & cup centered on that collar that sticks out the front of the crankshaft. 

 

If the pulley & cup sits on the edge of that collar then the  retaining bolt only pinches the pulley & cup between the front of that collar & retaining bolt so comes loose soon after running the engine.

 

If you are good with soldering & heat shrink installation then your old HES is probably still good & your new wiring harness is still good so you can probably make a working HES from both.

 

You also need to make darn sure that timing cup tab is bent back correctly & fully fits into the crankshaft slot to preserve proper ignition timing.    

 

 

[MarinPhil]

On 5/18/2021 at 4:31 AM, JustPete said:

Yet you took the time to comment? Grow up dude.

Touchy arent you DUDE. 

[Jim Moore]

1 hour ago, MarinPhil said:

Touchy arent you DUDE. 

This forum is supposed to be free of politics. And it was, until you started running your yap. Maybe you should mind your own business.

[JustPete]

I've got a running and riding RT gents!! I got the HES rebuilt using the old sensor peice and wired it up. It runs STRONG and feels good! Wow!! Thanks for all the wisdom and talk. 

Next stop, brakes and tires! (And also taking the tank back off to wrap all of the wires due to the disintegrating heat shrink.  

[Skywagon]

Good for you Jpete....now go ride and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

[Dave P]

JustPete- Great news! It's good that people here were able to help. You might want to just drop a little more coin into the old girl and swap out those brake lines with stainless lines. Then start turning some miles.

 

That driveway looks like the one we had in Nashville years ago. Are you in Tennessee? Dave