Fuel pump orientation and Beemer boneyard/euromoto flex hose kit?

[kbddbd]

Soliciting your help once again - Thanks so much for all the help so far as I get to know these bikes.

 

I am having issues getting very clear on the orientation of the fuel pump assembly in the tank on my 94 R1100RS. I pulled it apart earlier and marked it before I took it out but now think that its not right. Looking closer at the fuel sending unit, I think that's the problem with it only reading half full? The PO maybe put it back together wrong and so did I? I cant seem to find any marks, keys, or good pics for reference for this specific model - I have found pics for RT's but mine is a bit different. I would appreciate any help. 

 

I recently pulled it to replace all the pump and filter but didn't replace everything like I should have That's what I am doing now.  I bought the flexible kit from beemer boneyard but it just looks like it might not work since its such hard plastic. Is that the right kit? 

Also - I need to replace the vent hoses entirely. I cant seem to find a kit for that - Does anyone know where I would find those? I read there were 2 sizes. 8MM for early and 10MM for late?

 

I also bought and added QD's and installed a T for a pressure testing port

 

 

[fatbob]

Rotate the plate down so the pickup is at its lowest position while the fasteners still line up nicely.   Otherwise you won’t be able to use all the fuel capacity.   

[kbddbd]

fatbob - thanks - Thats what I did but it wasnt how it was when I took it apart. Thats why I was confused - thank you - that helps\

 

[Michaelr11]

There is a flat section on the plate that lines up with a flat on the tank. The layout of the parts should be the same for the RT and RS.  You probably have to rotate the plate a little to get the pieces through the hole, but then rotate it back so that the flat section lines up.

 

[Uncle Mike]

This is a R1100RT but it might be the same set up. 

 

 

[Michaelr11]

And if you look carefully at Uncle Mike's photo, at two holes between 6:00 and 8:00 o'clock you should see the flat section of the plate.  There is a flat on the tank also, so that you put the plate in the right orientation. If you rotate the plate and put it in the wrong position, the float arm is likely to get hung up and won't work.

 

I also see the BMW U-Hose part in the photo.  I have never used or seen in person the BB substitute for the U Hose, but that is a part that I think it pays to install the OEM part.  If you don't allow the gasoline to sit in your tank for months at a time, the OEM hose should stay intact and flexible for years.  In my experience, after 10 years my U-Hose was still pliable and not cracked.  I recently changed one after 6 years - it was as functional as the new one I installed.  Personal note: I ride my RT all year - less in the winter - and almost exclusively use non-ethanol gasoline.

[The Fabricator]

I have installed BBY hose kit in a R1100R a year ago.  It was difficult, but it did fit.

The hoses inside the fuel tank are special hoses for a submerged application.  A fuel hose for OUTSIDE the fuel tank is a different specification.  That hose will not work inside the fuel tank.  It will swell and then leak.

The hose for inside the fuel tank is double or more the price of an external fuel hose.  Just order it from BMW and be done with it.

[dirtrider]

On 1/25/2021 at 11:14 AM, kbddbd said:

Soliciting your help once again - Thanks so much for all the help so far as I get to know these bikes.

 

I am having issues getting very clear on the orientation of the fuel pump assembly in the tank on my 94 R1100RS. I pulled it apart earlier and marked it before I took it out but now think that its not right. Looking closer at the fuel sending unit, I think that's the problem with it only reading half full? The PO maybe put it back together wrong and so did I? I cant seem to find any marks, keys, or good pics for reference for this specific model - I have found pics for RT's but mine is a bit different. I would appreciate any help. 

 

I recently pulled it to replace all the pump and filter but didn't replace everything like I should have That's what I am doing now.  I bought the flexible kit from beemer boneyard but it just looks like it might not work since its such hard plastic. Is that the right kit? 

Also - I need to replace the vent hoses entirely. I cant seem to find a kit for that - Does anyone know where I would find those? I read there were 2 sizes. 8MM for early and 10MM for late?

 

I also bought and added QD's and installed a T for a pressure testing port

 

 

Morning  kbddbd

 

I usually mark those outlier bikes like the R & RS before removal as they are not as easy as the RT to line back up, unlike your RS the RT has a flat on the pump pass-through to line up with a tit on the tank for re-clocking correctly. 

 

The early RS doesn't have that alignment flat on the pump pass-though plate (just a partial cutaway of the flange in the hose-routing-area to prevent hose damage).

 

I just did one last fall & if I remember correctly the pump & filter are vertical (or very close to it)  when the plate is re-installed  correctly.    

 

The RS uses that float on the pump pass-through plate for the exact  fuel level reading, the RT uses a separate fuel sender tube for main fuel level reading.

 

It is ever so easy to bend that long float arm on the RS when removing & installing the pump pass-through so be sure that float arm isn't bent  (check your messages on this site a little later today as I will try to send you a picture of a correct looking RS float arm). 

 

I have seen the RS not read all the way to empty if the fuel filter isn't installed just right as it can stop full down travel of the float arm, but that shouldn't effect higher readings from 1/4 tank & up.  

 

Personally, I don't use that BBY "U" hose kit so I can't comment "if" it is correct (call BBY as they are very helpful on things like that).

 

On the internal vent hoses (those are a problem), they are 5mm ID fuel submersible rated & about impossible to find anywhere. Some have tried Tygon or similar but those can get hard over time then seep, or the clamps don't fit correctly on the smaller hose OD.

The (correct hose) is costly from the dealer (about $50.00 per meter) but on the RS you might be able to get both hoses from a single meter length. 

 

If you  try  something else be sure it is fuel (gasoline/alcohol) SUBMERSIBLE  rated with a 5 mm ID (or very close to a 5mm ID).

 

Again, try BeemerBoneyard, they never could, in the past,  source something suitable that would work but I haven't checked in a long while now so maybe they have sourced something that will work (if they don't offer it then you probably won't find a suitable "cheaper)  replacement on your own).   

[kbddbd]

Thank you for all the feed back. That helps a lot and validates what I thought. Unfortunately, its a bit too cold to tackle the project right now so I am going to let the snow clear before I give it a go - thanks again

[Lincoln_Faller]

I have no direct experience with changing in-tank vent lines, but Euromoto Electrics offers a 4 ft length of the necessary hose for $57 vs. Max's price of $51 for one only a meter long.  The extra length could well come in handy, better than coming up a bit short and having to buy a second meter for a total outlay of $102.

 

I've been a customer of EME but have no other connection.

 

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/fp-venthose737.htm

 

Stay safe, Lincoln

[kbddbd]

Thanks again for the feedback - I have purchased from EME before and they have good products at reasonable rates compared to dealers - I found everything there - Thank you