Does ABS rocker switch have an indicator?

[John Bennett]

2000 R1100RT

New to the forum and I want to thank everyone for all the good info I have learned just in the last couple of hours. I have very little time on this bike (800 miles) and I am curious about the ABS rocker on the dash. How do I know if ABS is working? The ABS is one of the main reasons I bought the bike. It is an old bike but still had ABS. Plus it is a beautiful ride.

You guy may be chuckling already because there is some indicator light or something that is not on, therefore  I have ABS problem that is obvious to you but not me. I have a manual on the way but it is a haynes and I never have been thrilled with them. Any information would be appreciated.

[Michaelr11]

John, there are two ABS lights on the dash. They are just to the right of the Neutral light. When you turn the key On, those two should be flashing together. Do they?

 

 The rocker switch doesn’t function in the normal operation of the ABS. The rocker switch is used to reset the abs if there is an error code. There is a specific procedure that you have to follow. If you need it, I will provide, or someone else will.

[John Bennett]

Thanks for getting back. There are no lights flashing I am afraid. I would like to look into this now because I have left side off : I replaced battery and filter.

Another thing I found strange is that on forward end of air horn there is really no connection, just an air gap. The same is true on aft end of horn at air box. It just sort of ends up there. I can see the air filter works perfectly well in this config but it is strange.

I am a real tenderfoot with these new bikes, I know that sounds funny, but I have for years been a custom builder of 50's era HD panheads. Very cut and dried. 

I love riding this bike and am excited to get to know it mechanically. I love these boxer engines. I drove a '67 beetle up until 2018. Three engines, 540,000 miles!

This group has helped me a great deal already! Please, any info you can send on ABS would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Michaelr11]

When you turn the key, before you start the bike - these two lights should be flashing together.

 

You have the left side panel off. You should see the battery sitting under the tank at the back of the tank.  Under the tank, directly in front of the battery should be your ABS2 system.  If there is an empty space in front of the battery, then your ABS system was removed.

 

The gap between the pieces of the air tubes is normal.

[Michaelr11]

Another shot of the left side - battery, ABS2.  Also note the air tubes and the space between them.

 

 

[John Bennett]

The ABS is definitely there. No lights blink when key turned, in neutral, side stand down. I see the windows where the lights are. Top one says ABS, cannot tell about bottom one. The rocker switch is on the left of dash in group of 3 rockers: emergency flash being one. ABS rocker black on upper part and with round, white ABS icon on lower part. Thanks!

[wbw6cos]

Do you hear a "klunk klunk" when you first ride away (few feet?)  That would be the ABS self-test being done.

 

Have you tried braking on gravel to see if ABS is functional?  

 

If not, perhaps the ABS is not functioning and the PO disconnected or removed the ABS warning lights.   You may want to see if the wires behind them have been cut or are not present.

 

 

[dirtrider]

14 hours ago, John Bennett said:

2000 R1100RT

New to the forum and I want to thank everyone for all the good info I have learned just in the last couple of hours. I have very little time on this bike (800 miles) and I am curious about the ABS rocker on the dash. How do I know if ABS is working? The ABS is one of the main reasons I bought the bike. It is an old bike but still had ABS. Plus it is a beautiful ride.

You guy may be chuckling already because there is some indicator light or something that is not on, therefore  I have ABS problem that is obvious to you but not me. I have a manual on the way but it is a haynes and I never have been thrilled with them. Any information would be appreciated.

Morning John

 

On the 1100RT, as mentioned above, that ABS  rocker switch is not used for much, it won't turn the ABS on or off like it will on the 1100GS   (for all practical purposes it just sits there taunting you).

 

If you have no ABS lights at key-on then the first thing to do is start the engine. Some old 1100RT bikes were re-wired by the owners to only power the ABS up after engine starting by using the alternator "D" terminal to power an added power relay. 

 

If still no ABS lights then check for actual bulbs  in the sockets. One ABS light is controlled direct by the ABS relay in the fuse box (make sure that is there)  & the other ABS light is controlled directly (no relay) by the ABS module itself. 

 

ABS relay in the fuse box is 2nd one in from right in front row. 

 

If you have an older analog type voltmeter you can get the ABS failure codes to read out in needle deflections fashion but the ABS needs to be fully powered up to use that. 

 

As long as the ABS module is powered up, the ABS relay is in the fuse box & working & the ABS lights are there & working then you can usually diagnose the ABS system (at least to a functional point). 

 

Get the ABS lights functioning first then you can address the other things. 

 

Another thing I found strange is that on forward end of air horn there is really no connection, just an air gap. The same is true on aft end of horn at air box. It just sort of ends up there. I can see the air filter works perfectly well in this config but it is strange.-- That is an on-purpose, it keeps water from running into the air box under certain conditions as the air gap allows most water flowing into the intake tube to run out that gap but still provides fresh air to the airbox & engine. 

 

 

 

 

[John Bennett]

First I want to thank everyone for all the help.

I have a Fluke digital meter. I feel like I could pull the ABS relay and use meter to check voltage at relay socket to see if it had any voltage at all. I will also check for voltage at sockets and continuity through ABS indicator bulbs. I am looking online (I finally got internet! Although the speed feels like a wagon train at least I have it. I live deep in the mountains of WV.) for methods of testing ABS relay. Just trying to suss this out because after 4 decades of riding old Harley's I want the safety and security of ABS. I saw an amazing video on YouTube that compared ABS/no ABS on wet strip and I decided right then any future bikes I owned had to have ABS. Thanks everyone for your help!

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, John Bennett said:

First I want to thank everyone for all the help.

I have a Fluke digital meter. I feel like I could pull the ABS relay and use meter to check voltage at relay socket to see if it had any voltage at all. I will also check for voltage at sockets and continuity through ABS indicator bulbs. I am looking online (I finally got internet! Although the speed feels like a wagon train at least I have it. I live deep in the mountains of WV.) for methods of testing ABS relay. Just trying to suss this out because after 4 decades of riding old Harley's I want the safety and security of ABS. I saw an amazing video on YouTube that compared ABS/no ABS on wet strip and I decided right then any future bikes I owned had to have ABS. Thanks everyone for your help!

Afternoon John

 

Don't get confused about the ABS relay, it DOESN'T control the ABS system (you can remove that relay & toss it out & your ABS should still work as normal. That ABS relay ONLY controls one of the two ABS warning lights (light only, that is ALL it does). 

 

So about all that  happens with the ABS relay removed or malfunctioning is that one of the 2  ABS warning lights doesn't work.

 

That relay's only purpose is so the ABS module can FLASH the ABS lights alternately when needed. 

 

Don't put too much faith in the older BMW ABS-II system, it used a motor controlled spinning shaft, engagement clutches, pistons, chains  so was slow to respond & it's cyclic rate was pretty slow. ( It does work but on real slick surfaces it might not respond quick enough to keep you upright). BMW realized the slow response so they went to the much quicker responding I-ABS on the 1150 motorcycles, the the better yet valve system on the 1200 I-ABS gen-2 ABS system.  

[John Bennett]

Wow, that is really a long way around then for a blinking bulb! I am in process right now of accessing bulbs and sockets to check function. I am keeping my fingers crossed but the odds of two bulbs out is enormous. This info will save me some time. Thanks!

I am not able to start bike to do a roll off or gravel hard brake test.

The bike used to start perfectly and idle no problem (month ago), but then battery (very old) showed 8.7v after charging at two amps for 1 1/2 hrs. I put new battery (12.8v) in yesterday, it cranked about 6 times strongly and then made a big clack-clunk. Would only click after that. Sounds to me like a solenoid problem, or basic pinion-flywheel conflict. Typically I would put bike in 3rd gear and rock it to release pinion or slightly move flywheel. i am on a grade and my old a** has trouble doing this. I am optimistic about that working.

I really want to make noise by this evening!

My only problem with this bike is it's weight. I usually ride with cases off and that helps a lot. I am planning a trip to San Diego mid January and the weight concerns me because I will have cases and gear aboard, no passenger however. This ride cruises like it's on rails though and I love it!

[dirtrider]

46 minutes ago, John Bennett said:

Wow, that is really a long way around then for a blinking bulb! I am in process right now of accessing bulbs and sockets to check function. I am keeping my fingers crossed but the odds of two bulbs out is enormous. This info will save me some time. Thanks!

I am not able to start bike to do a roll off or gravel hard brake test.

The bike used to start perfectly and idle no problem (month ago), but then battery (very old) showed 8.7v after charging at two amps for 1 1/2 hrs. I put new battery (12.8v) in yesterday, it cranked about 6 times strongly and then made a big clack-clunk. Would only click after that. Sounds to me like a solenoid problem, or basic pinion-flywheel conflict. Typically I would put bike in 3rd gear and rock it to release pinion or slightly move flywheel. i am on a grade and my old a** has trouble doing this. I am optimistic about that working.

I really want to make noise by this evening!

My only problem with this bike is it's weight. I usually ride with cases off and that helps a lot. I am planning a trip to San Diego mid January and the weight concerns me because I will have cases and gear aboard, no passenger however. This ride cruises like it's on rails though and I love it!

Afternoon John

 

Get it running before putting too much time in that ABS diagnosis (or call the last owner) if your bike was converted to an alternator controlled ABS power supply you can't test anything until you power up the ABS system.

 

Or you can do a voltage check to see if the green wire (terminal 15) going into the ABS module has 12v on it with key ON-- No 12v on that green wire then suspect an alternator controlled power relay has been added at one time.    

 

On your ABS lights, one light is powered with 12v through fuse #1 then the ABS module  grounds it's low side  to bring it on.

The other ABS light is powered 12v directly from the ign switch to the ABS relay then the relay pull-in coil is pulled low by the ABS module to send 12v to light & turn that light on. 

 

On your starter problem, BMW had some problems with the starter motor magnet shoes falling off then jamming up the starter (those magnet shoes were just glued on, well at least until they fell off ).