Aled Williams Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 My 2006 R1200RT has been running a bit rough recently (stalling, dying on tickover, lack of power generally). I decided to check the valve clearances - left side were perfect, as were 3 of the valves on the right side, but the lower intake valve has a huge gap: 1.35mm. I've ordered a compression tester to see if the valve leaks as I suspect its not seating fully. What should i expect / prepare myself for and what's a likely route to fix this? Thanks... Link to comment
dirtrider Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 12 hours ago, Aled Williams said: My 2006 R1200RT has been running a bit rough recently (stalling, dying on tickover, lack of power generally). I decided to check the valve clearances - left side were perfect, as were 3 of the valves on the right side, but the lower intake valve has a huge gap: 1.35mm. I've ordered a compression tester to see if the valve leaks as I suspect its not seating fully. What should i expect / prepare myself for and what's a likely route to fix this? Thanks... Evening Aled That is strange, valves usually recede & get tighter not looser. Might be something stuck between the valve & seat, or a bent valve. Does that valve look about the same height as the other intake valve? If valve is about the same height then look for a pushrod issue or rocker arm problem. It looks like the elephants foot is about the correct protrusion. Can't tell you what to expect UNTIL you determine if you have lost compression. Personally I would probably remove the throttle body, then see if I could look into the intake port & see the valve to seat area, might tell you something IF you can see enough in there. (The upper intake is easier to see the back side of than the lower intake). If you have an air compressor you can probably get by without a compression gauge. Just find a rubber plug (or even a rag) then with valves closed on that side blow compressed air into the spark plug hole. If that valve is leaking (I can't see why it isn't) LOTS of air will come out of the open throttle body. (hold throttle wide open to assure TB throttle valve is open) 1 Link to comment
dirtrider Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 More__ If in fact that valve is being held off it's seat you might look at the throttle body throttle plate on that side, years ago I worked on a BMW 1100 that had a throttle plate screw come out & get stuck between the intake valve & seat to hold the valve open. I ran high pressure air into the spark plug hole, then rapped on the rocker arm over the valve with a big brass drift & hammer. It took some hits but eventually the screw blew out the intake port. 1 Link to comment
bmwroam Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 I had a similar problem with my 2008 RT on the RH side. Turned out the hydraulic lifter had worn. Luckily no internal damage to the camshaft. This happened at only 25,000km. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 1 hour ago, bmwroam said: I had a similar problem with my 2008 RT on the RH side. Turned out the hydraulic lifter had worn. Luckily no internal damage to the camshaft. This happened at only 25,000km. Morning bmwroam Couldn't be a hydraulic lifter as the BMW 1200 hexhead doesn't use hydraulic lifters they use mechanical (solid) lifters. Link to comment
Aled Williams Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 Dirtrider, you were on the right track with the 'foreign body'. After removing the throttle body, it was apparent what the problem was: there was a 20mm long aluminium ferrule stuck below the lower valve stem! After rotating the engine half a turn so the inlet valves were open the 'object' un-stuck and I fished it out with a wire. I'm gobsmacked to find this - I bought the RT 9 months ago and have done 6000 miles on it (current mileage is 26,000 - bought with dealer FSH) and this has obviously been rattling about behind the valves for some time. I hope the valve hasn't been bent, I've not run the engine yet - we'll see. The mind boggles thinking how this got in there in the first place... Thanks for all who commented and gave their help - very much appreciated. On a positive, I now have a tool for opening the Oetiker clips - a ground down adjustable plier, works great! WIN_20201014_12_59_32_Pro.mp4 Link to comment
Hati Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 What he ^ said... The question is now what is it? Part of the bike and now missing from its place or something that was accidentally dropped in while the bike was worked on/serviced in the past? My money is on foreign object. Link to comment
Aled Williams Posted October 15, 2020 Author Share Posted October 15, 2020 It doesn't appear to be a part from the bike - I guess a 'foreign object'. No surprise the bike run so much better now! Link to comment
dirtrider Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 2 hours ago, Aled Williams said: It doesn't appear to be a part from the bike - I guess a 'foreign object'. No surprise the bike runs so much better now! Evening Aled Well, that IS good news that it is running better, hopefully the "floater" was soft enough to not cause any lasting damage. I do love a cheap repair. Link to comment
Hank in WV Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 If it had a slot cut vertically through it, it would remind me of a wheel weight for a spoked wheel. I don't know if they still use them any more or not. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 11 hours ago, Hank in WV said: If it had a slot cut vertically through it, it would remind me of a wheel weight for a spoked wheel. I don't know if they still use them any more or not. Morning Hank Those things are still around but most just use stick on weights now. It does sort of look like that but those spoke weights were not made out of aluminum. Link to comment
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