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Switching to LED


Blake8098

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Thinking of switching all the lighting on 98 r1100rt to LED. I Am missing bulb sockets for my front turn indicators. I’ve run a google search but can’t seem to find an informative answer. 
 

1. Where do you find good LED bulbs and the right “size?” Bulb for each one?

 

2. Do said bulbs come with bulb sockets and you wire those in. 
 

3. If not, does anyone know where to find some aftermarket bulb sockets that will work for the rt front indicators?

 

Thanks for the help!

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No answers from me - but I'm right with you on wanting to do this, thinking of exactly that same project during this winter's deep dive maintenance on my '97 RT.  Very helpful group here in the past so I'm hoping to collect some useful info in this thread.  Lights are not great in original configuration so an upgrade in strength would be nice, plus lower elect draw is always a good thing to leave more oomph going to the rubber.  With extra amps available I'm planning to add some accent lights to make me more visible as I putter down the road in the slow lane.  

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2 hours ago, TimberGuy said:

No answers from me - but I'm right with you on wanting to do this, thinking of exactly that same project during this winter's deep dive maintenance on my '97 RT.  Very helpful group here in the past so I'm hoping to collect some useful info in this thread.  Lights are not great in original configuration so an upgrade in strength would be nice, plus lower elect draw is always a good thing to leave more oomph going to the rubber.  With extra amps available I'm planning to add some accent lights to make me more visible as I putter down the road in the slow lane.  

My plan spot on! 

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I replaced all the bulbs with LED's on my 99 R1100RT, 99 R1100S, 2000 K1200RS, and 06 ST1300.  Headlight bulbs to instrument indicators and illumination bulbs. Well, all the bulbs except the GEN bulb in the instruments, it needs to be an incandescent for the alternator to charge on the BMW's.

 

I'd recommend looking at https://www.superbrightleds.com/.   They have a bulb selection guide that includes motorcycles and I've found it to be very accurate.

 

Cyclops (https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/) has very good LED headlight bulbs.

 

When you've found the type of bulb, then you can search eBay, Amazon, etc for the bulb you want.  Superbright has very good quality bulbs but not the cheapest prices.

 

You need to understand lumens and Kelvins. Lumens is a measure of brightness and Kelvins is the temperature that creates the color of the white light made by the headlight bulbs.  I always want the brightest bulb possible for headlight, turn, brake, and tail light bulbs.  Instrument bulbs were a trial and error for the best brightness for day and night driving.

 

If you are choosing a bulb for a colored lens (amber turn or red brake/tail light, then get the same color LED bulb.  The lens will block all the light except for the lens color which reduces the brightness of the bulb.  If you have clear turn lenses then you will need amber LED'S anyway.

 

DOT has laws about the brightness of headlight bulbs but it is usually rated in watts, not lumens.  Just google the conversion formula, its about 90 -100 lumens per watt.  I'm fairly certain my headlights are brighter than legal but I've never had a problem, even with a modulator on high and low beams.

 

Most LED headlight bulbs have a tiny cooling fan mounted on the rear of the bulb.  I've not had much success with LED headlight bulbs without the fan, just static heatpipes, fins, or heatsinks.  The fans make the bulbs last much longer.  The clearance between the rear of the fan and the rear cover for the bulb may be an issue on some bikes. 

 

Some bikes use a bulb that seems to be different that a standard H4 or whatever, i.e. the Honda ST1300 uses an H4 bulb with the bottom locating tab removed.

 

If you buy headlight bulbs on eBay (H4, H7, etc) they are usually sold in pairs for cars, and the lumens are usually shown as a TOTAL of the pair.  

 

Some turn, tail, brake type bulbs are a "tower" design, actually a cylinder with individual LED chips mounted on it.  Be sure the bulb will fit in your reflector.

 

If your bike has CANBUS, you need to get CANBUS rated bulbs.  

 

If you have an older bike your blinker and flasher relay may give you a "hyper flash".  You can install resistors or a newer relay to correct it.  Mine were faster but not too fast and I left it as is.

Edited by Lowndes
links and info added
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I replaced all the bulbs on my '03 R1150RT with LED. The turn signals hyper flashed, but I fixed it by modifying the turn signal "blinker" rather than installing load resistors. Chris Harris has a video showing how. It's the same part on your R1100RT as on my R1150RT.

 

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On 10/13/2020 at 9:14 PM, Lowndes said:

I replaced all the bulbs with LED's on my 99 R1100RT, 99 R1100S, 2000 K1200RS, and 06 ST1300.  Headlight bulbs to instrument indicators and illumination bulbs. Well, all the bulbs except the GEN bulb in the instruments, it needs to be an incandescent for the alternator to charge on the BMW's.

 

I'd recommend looking at https://www.superbrightleds.com/.   They have a bulb selection guide that includes motorcycles and I've found it to be very accurate.

 

Cyclops (https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/) has very good LED headlight bulbs.

 

When you've found the type of bulb, then you can search eBay, Amazon, etc for the bulb you want.  Superbright has very good quality bulbs but not the cheapest prices.

 

You need to understand lumens and Kelvins. Lumens is a measure of brightness and Kelvins is the temperature that creates the color of the white light made by the headlight bulbs.  I always want the brightest bulb possible for headlight, turn, brake, and tail light bulbs.  Instrument bulbs were a trial and error for the best brightness for day and night driving.

 

If you are choosing a bulb for a colored lens (amber turn or red brake/tail light, then get the same color LED bulb.  The lens will block all the light except for the lens color which reduces the brightness of the bulb.  If you have clear turn lenses then you will need amber LED'S anyway.

 

DOT has laws about the brightness of headlight bulbs but it is usually rated in watts, not lumens.  Just google the conversion formula, its about 90 -100 lumens per watt.  I'm fairly certain my headlights are brighter than legal but I've never had a problem, even with a modulator on high and low beams.

 

Most LED headlight bulbs have a tiny cooling fan mounted on the rear of the bulb.  I've not had much success with LED headlight bulbs without the fan, just static heatpipes, fins, or heatsinks.  The fans make the bulbs last much longer.  The clearance between the rear of the fan and the rear cover for the bulb may be an issue on some bikes. 

 

Some bikes use a bulb that seems to be different that a standard H4 or whatever, i.e. the Honda ST1300 uses an H4 bulb with the bottom locating tab removed.

 

If you buy headlight bulbs on eBay (H4, H7, etc) they are usually sold in pairs for cars, and the lumens are usually shown as a TOTAL of the pair.  

 

Some turn, tail, brake type bulbs are a "tower" design, actually a cylinder with individual LED chips mounted on it.  Be sure the bulb will fit in your reflector.

 

If your bike has CANBUS, you need to get CANBUS rated bulbs.  

 

If you have an older bike your blinker and flasher relay may give you a "hyper flash".  You can install resistors or a newer relay to correct it.  Mine were faster but not too fast and I left it as is.

Thank you! When you bought the led bulbs did they Plug into the bulb socket on the bike? Or did you remove the bulb socket and plug them in directly that way?

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3 hours ago, Blake8098 said:

Thank you! When you bought the led bulbs did they Plug into the bulb socket on the bike? Or did you remove the bulb socket and plug them in directly that way?

 

The new LED bulbs plug into the OEM sockets on the bike, plug-and-play, zero problems.  I revised my post above to clarify this (I hope).

 

BTW, I've made it a habit to dab some dielectric "bulb grease" on the contacts, bike and bulb, as well as all connectors I can get at.  This makes them much easier to remove next time as well as preventing oxidation/corrosion on the parts.

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Lowndes- I just online chatted with a SuperBrite LED guy for advice- looks like $63 bucks (including shipping) would set me up- headlight, tail / brake light and 4 signals. Plug n play. Sounds like an easy upgrade. I think I'm in!

 

Did you have any issue with signals doing the hyperflash?

 

He said amber LEDs for the signals, red LEDs for the tail/brake. Thought they would all be clear, like the old bulbs. But what the hell do I know about LEDs anyway?    Dave

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On 10/7/2020 at 6:43 PM, Blake8098 said:

2. Do said bulbs come with bulb sockets and you wire those in. 

Evening  Blake8098

 

On the front turn signal sockets, you can usually source them from a good auto parts store but you will either need to take a front turn signal in with you to test the fit, or guess correctly. 

 

You can still buy the front turn signal sockets from a BMW motorcycle dealer (about $10.50 each).

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1 hour ago, Dave P said:

Lowndes- I just online chatted with a SuperBrite LED guy for advice- looks like $63 bucks (including shipping) would set me up- headlight, tail / brake light and 4 signals. Plug n play. Sounds like an easy upgrade. I think I'm in!

 

Did you have any issue with signals doing the hyperflash?

 

He said amber LEDs for the signals, red LEDs for the tail/brake. Thought they would all be clear, like the old bulbs. But what the hell do I know about LEDs anyway?    Dave

 

Dave - Yes, I've always found the CS and tech support people at Superbright to be easy to talk to, very knowledgeable and helpful.

 

My turn signals didn't really do a "hyper flash" with the LED's, more of a very quick blink, which I think is better anyway.  Our eyes naturally go to movement and we see flashing as movement (that's why it bugs the crap out of other riders).   I think it might be more "attention getting" to motorists with their noses in their cell phones coming up behind me and sitting at the light in front of me.  Whatever I can legally do to get their attention and not kill me is good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Lowndes- I learned from their website that the colored tail light lens  (red) blocks all the waves of light except red. If i use a white LED in the brake, there are several different colored waves that get blocked. If I use a red LED, only red waves are being produced, and nothing gets filtered out. So that explains using a red LED in the tail, amber in the signals. Dave

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13 minutes ago, Dave P said:

Lowndes- I learned from their website that the colored tail light lens  (red) blocks all the waves of light except red. If i use a white LED in the brake, there are several different colored waves that get blocked. If I use a red LED, only red waves are being produced, and nothing gets filtered out. So that explains using a red LED in the tail, amber in the signals. Dave

 

Correct.  And you said it better that I did:

 

"If you are choosing a bulb for a colored lens (amber turn or red brake/tail light, then get the same color LED bulb.  The lens will block all the light except for the lens color which reduces the brightness of the bulb.  If you have clear turn lenses then you will need amber LED'S anyway."

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  • 1 month later...
NOLONGERRELEVANT
On 10/13/2020 at 9:14 PM, Lowndes said:

I replaced all the bulbs with LED's on my 99 R1100RT, 99 R1100S, 2000 K1200RS, and 06 ST1300.  Headlight bulbs to instrument indicators and illumination bulbs. Well, all the bulbs except the GEN bulb in the instruments, it needs to be an incandescent for the alternator to charge on the BMW's.

 

I'd recommend looking at https://www.superbrightleds.com/.   They have a bulb selection guide that includes motorcycles and I've found it to be very accurate.

 

Cyclops (https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/) has very good LED headlight bulbs.

 

When you've found the type of bulb, then you can search eBay, Amazon, etc for the bulb you want.  Superbright has very good quality bulbs but not the cheapest prices.

 

You need to understand lumens and Kelvins. Lumens is a measure of brightness and Kelvins is the temperature that creates the color of the white light made by the headlight bulbs.  I always want the brightest bulb possible for headlight, turn, brake, and tail light bulbs.  Instrument bulbs were a trial and error for the best brightness for day and night driving.

 

If you are choosing a bulb for a colored lens (amber turn or red brake/tail light, then get the same color LED bulb.  The lens will block all the light except for the lens color which reduces the brightness of the bulb.  If you have clear turn lenses then you will need amber LED'S anyway.

 

DOT has laws about the brightness of headlight bulbs but it is usually rated in watts, not lumens.  Just google the conversion formula, its about 90 -100 lumens per watt.  I'm fairly certain my headlights are brighter than legal but I've never had a problem, even with a modulator on high and low beams.

 

Most LED headlight bulbs have a tiny cooling fan mounted on the rear of the bulb.  I've not had much success with LED headlight bulbs without the fan, just static heatpipes, fins, or heatsinks.  The fans make the bulbs last much longer.  The clearance between the rear of the fan and the rear cover for the bulb may be an issue on some bikes. 

 

Some bikes use a bulb that seems to be different that a standard H4 or whatever, i.e. the Honda ST1300 uses an H4 bulb with the bottom locating tab removed.

 

If you buy headlight bulbs on eBay (H4, H7, etc) they are usually sold in pairs for cars, and the lumens are usually shown as a TOTAL of the pair.  

 

Some turn, tail, brake type bulbs are a "tower" design, actually a cylinder with individual LED chips mounted on it.  Be sure the bulb will fit in your reflector.

 

If your bike has CANBUS, you need to get CANBUS rated bulbs.  

 

If you have an older bike your blinker and flasher relay may give you a "hyper flash".  You can install resistors or a newer relay to correct it.  Mine were faster but not too fast and I left it as is.

How do you know if your bike has CANBUS?

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21 minutes ago, NOLA Kirk said:

How do you know if your bike has CANBUS?

Morning  NOLA Kirk

 

Basically ask here on this board. 

 

What motorcycle do you have? (year, model, etc)

 

For the most part the CanBus didn't how up until late 2004 (mainly 2005 up)  but ask here to be sure what you have. 

 

The BMW 1100/1150 didn't have a CanBus. 

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On the color temperature thing, you can get to far into the blue spectrum where it doesn't cut through fog very well.  I think OEMs try to keep the color temperature for a headlamp a bit on the warm white side for this reason (closer to 4,000 Kelvin)  A lot of the LEDs out there are 5,500 Kelvin and it is harder to find ones 5,000 Kelvin or less. The 5,500 Kelvin bulbs will be really nice in clear air, but tend to leave less down road visibility if there is a lot of moisture (fog) in the air.

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NOLONGERRELEVANT
On 12/16/2020 at 9:06 AM, dirtrider said:

Morning  NOLA Kirk

 

Basically ask here on this board. 

 

What motorcycle do you have? (year, model, etc)

 

For the most part the CanBus didn't how up until late 2004 (mainly 2005 up)  but ask here to be sure what you have. 

 

The BMW 1100/1150 didn't have a CanBus. 

I have the 1999 R1100RT

 

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FYI Using ballast Resistors is the wrong way to do it.

 

"Electronic LED Flasher Relays have no minimum load-12VDC. Eliminates the need for load resistors, turn signals will flash at normal rate with or without LED bulbs. Use the Flasher Selection Guide to determine the correct Flasher Relay for your vehicle."

 

Some older bikes are wired with a single indicator lamp in series, those will need a modification to the wiring. (Adding 2 diodes)

 

Does anyone know where to get a brake lamp like this one? 1157 LED Bulb w/ Brake Flasher Seem superbright has discontinued it.

"Brake light flashes 3 times once per minute and returns to steady lighting between intervals."

 



 

 

 

Turn Indicator Mod.jpg

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5 hours ago, Dave334478 said:

"Electronic LED Flasher Relays have no minimum load-12VDC. Eliminates the need for load resistors, turn signals will flash at normal rate with or without LED bulbs. Use the Flasher Selection Guide to determine the correct Flasher Relay for your vehicle."

 

Some older bikes are wired with a single indicator lamp in series, those will need a modification to the wiring. (Adding 2 diodes)

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

Morning  Dave334478

 

I don't think that you understand how the BMW turn signals system works, it uses a very unique (strange) turn signal system with a very complex electronic flasher relay, momentary contact type switches for T/S initialization &  cancellation. Nothing in your  flasher selection link even comes remotely close to working with the BMW T/S system. 

 

Kisan does make such an aftermarket T/S relay with added functions but it isn't cheap.    

 

 wzbhVTk.jpg

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3 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Morning  Dave334478

 

I don't think that you understand how the BMW turn signals system works, it uses a very unique (strange) turn signal system with a very complex electronic flasher relay, momentary contact type switches for T/S initialization &  cancellation. Nothing in your  flasher selection link even comes remotely close to working with the BMW T/S system. 

 

Kisan does make such an aftermarket T/S relay with added functions but it isn't cheap. 

 

Your right. I didn't even think about the momentary switches. I forgot to engage my brain before running my mouth ;)

 

I just got my first BMW about a week ago so I've got a lot of learning to do.  

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/22/2020 at 1:50 AM, Dave334478 said:

FYI Using ballast Resistors is the wrong way to do it.

 

"Electronic LED Flasher Relays have no minimum load-12VDC. Eliminates the need for load resistors, turn signals will flash at normal rate with or without LED bulbs. Use the Flasher Selection Guide to determine the correct Flasher Relay for your vehicle."

 

Some older bikes are wired with a single indicator lamp in series, those will need a modification to the wiring. (Adding 2 diodes)

 

Does anyone know where to get a brake lamp like this one? 1157 LED Bulb w/ Brake Flasher Seem superbright has discontinued it.

"Brake light flashes 3 times once per minute and returns to steady lighting between intervals."

 

Hey, Dave334478,

 

I've used modulators from SuperBright on three older BMW's to flash/modulate the LED brake lights.  I also have a Kisan Tail Blazer on a bike (forget which one, but it came on the bike).  There are several Super Bright units that have a selection of Brightness, Speed, and Mode/Pattern.  One model even has a remote that you can use to easily change the selections OTG.  With the cheapo unit you can change everything with buttons on the unit, after you dig it out from under the seat.  I've found that the brightness and speed of the brake light flash is directly proportional to the effectiveness on inattentive drivers but inversley proportional to the good humor of fellow riders.  Decisions must be made.  Some prefer staying out from under stationwagons at stoplights.

 

Cheapo unit ($6.95 ea): https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/single-color-dimmer-switches/single-color-led-controller-with-dynamic-modes/1082/2573/

 

Remote unit ($9.95 ea): https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/single-color-dimmer-switches/single-color-led-controller-with-dynamic-modes-rf-remote/1370/3140/

 

There are very short vids in the above sites showing the different modes, speeds, and brighness selections for each of these.  The expensive unit might have a larger selection of modes.  They weren't "waterproof" until I put a dab of RTV in each end around the wires.

 

This is a vid of my K12RS with the modulators on aux red LED brake lights, two separate controllers, creating the alternating flashing:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/EdXA6x5gCcy89gXZ7

 

The center LED is similar to this: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-wired-bolts/bolt-beam-12mm-led-light/1494/

The two short strip-LED's are similar to:  https://www.amazon.com/LED-Motorcycle-Waterproof-Running-Flexible/dp/B07YNZ97DF/ref=sr_1_27?dchild=1&keywords=led+12v+marker+6+inch+strip&qid=1609809946&sr=8-27

 

No problems in several years riding, if you don't count the comments from the old grouches I ride with.

 

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15 hours ago, Lowndes said:

 

Hey, Dave334478,

 

I've used modulators from SuperBright on three older BMW's to flash/modulate the LED brake lights.  I also have a Kisan Tail Blazer on a bike (forget which one, but it came on the bike).  There are several Super Bright units that have a selection of Brightness, Speed, and Mode/Pattern.  One model even has a remote that you can use to easily change the selections OTG.  With the cheapo unit you can change everything with buttons on the unit, after you dig it out from under the seat.  I've found that the brightness and speed of the brake light flash is directly proportional to the effectiveness on inattentive drivers but inversley proportional to the good humor of fellow riders.  Decisions must be made.  Some prefer staying out from under stationwagons at stoplights.

 

Cheapo unit ($6.95 ea): https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/single-color-dimmer-switches/single-color-led-controller-with-dynamic-modes/1082/2573/

 

Remote unit ($9.95 ea): https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/single-color-dimmer-switches/single-color-led-controller-with-dynamic-modes-rf-remote/1370/3140/

 

There are very short vids in the above sites showing the different modes, speeds, and brighness selections for each of these.  The expensive unit might have a larger selection of modes.  They weren't "waterproof" until I put a dab of RTV in each end around the wires.

 

This is a vid of my K12RS with the modulators on aux red LED brake lights, two separate controllers, creating the alternating flashing:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/EdXA6x5gCcy89gXZ7

 

The center LED is similar to this: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-wired-bolts/bolt-beam-12mm-led-light/1494/

The two short strip-LED's are similar to:  https://www.amazon.com/LED-Motorcycle-Waterproof-Running-Flexible/dp/B07YNZ97DF/ref=sr_1_27?dchild=1&keywords=led+12v+marker+6+inch+strip&qid=1609809946&sr=8-27

 

No problems in several years riding, if you don't count the comments from the old grouches I ride with.

 

 

Thanks for the info.

I took the one I had in my Honda (the discontinued item) and put it in my BMW.  It still works fine.

I also found a simple Brake Light Strobe Module at superbright for $5. 

ATM my E-Flashers don't work and I haven't even looked into why yet. I do wonder though, would the strobe module above interfere with them if they were working?

I pulled the headlight bucket and gauge cluster off to polish up the chrome and discovered the "parking lamp". Like, what is this for? The headlamp is always on so when would you ever see this little 4w bulb?  It is burned out. Hmm, maybe when you turn on the flashers? So I surfed around and found a replacement that didn't have the customary 300% BMW price tag. Q5T3/CS/12V 5 Watt T2-3/4 Halogen Ba9S Base

Still waiting for that to show up.

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When you turn the key counterclockwise all the way with the forks turned all the way to the left,  it leaves that bulb and the tail light on. I replaced that bulb with a 1 Watt LED. It's easily accessible from under the front fairing. My 1991 Mercedes SL has a parking light feature like that. It leaves the left turn signal powered on when you power off the car. Miguel

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Dave,

 

The "parking light" may be a Euro thing, or maybe some states require it.  I replaced mine with an LED.  Much brighter.  Never use it.

 

The emergency flashers are on a different circuit I think, from the brake light.  My modulaors are just wired into the brake light circuit right at the tail light.  Yours may be different.  Mine  don't interfere with anything else that I'm aware of, but I've blamed several wrong turns on them.  :)

 

The $5 modulater you found above only modulates for three (3) seconds.  That's OK, but we have stop lights down here that last for 90 seconds (an eternity).  

 

For your E-Flasher, check the fuses in Fuse Box #2.  If that's not it, you might consider something like DeoxIT Dn5 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/DeoxIT-Caig-DN5-Spray-Perfect-Straw-Size-Mini-Spray-1-4oz-/133298166560) in the FLASHER switch (and all the handlebar switches).  It is a cleaner and a lube for the electrical contacts in the switch.  A very small size but it's very easy to apply, it works, only takes a tiny squirt, and lasts a long time.  

 

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, NOLA Kirk said:

I also found an entire rear light LED replacement unit here:

 

https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-R-1100-1150-RT/Leds-Lenses-Bulbs/LED-Rear-Light.html

 

The grey version looks really good.  Would love to get feedback if someone is using this Hornig replacement LED unit.

I have the Hornig rear LED assembly. The PO installed it. It works fine. It's bright, clear and obvious to drivers being me. The PO installed "equalizer" resistors, necessary with the OEM flasher relay to work with Hornig LED rear light. I don't know if they were necessary but I removed them when I installed the SM-5. I've also installed 1600 lumen LED in the front turn signals without load resistors and they worked fine as well. One thing about LED is that they turn on and off almost instantaneously vs incandescent bulbs which turn on and off relatively slowly. Hope that helps!

Miguel

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