while I have both sides of tupperware off the motorcycle...

[Jimmy2Time]

.... is there anything I should be looking at, inspecting, addressing??  This is for a 1999 R1100RT.

 

Years ago, I added fog lights and just recently, there was a failure in my old wiring (bad connector in my splice) which required me to remove the tupperware off both side of the motorcycle to fix this. 

 

Having the bike in this state is rare for me so just wondering; while the bike is naked if there is anything else I should be reviewing or inspecting?

 

Also, I dropped the nut to the positive battery terminal bolt somewhere behind the battery and unable to locate and retrieve it.  I noticed it is not magnetic so my magnetic retrieval tool cannot help me in this cause.   Will this nut just eventually fall out while on future trips down the road or is this something I should really try to find?

 

[dirtrider]

11 minutes ago, Jimmy2Time said:

.... is there anything I should be looking at, inspecting, addressing??  This is for a 1999 R1100RT.

 

Years ago, I added fog lights and just recently, there was a failure in my old wiring (bad connector in my splice) which required me to remove the tupperware off both side of the motorcycle to fix this. 

 

Having the bike in this state is rare for me so just wondering; while the bike is naked if there is anything else I should be reviewing or inspecting?

 

Also, I dropped the nut to the positive battery terminal bolt somewhere behind the battery and unable to locate and retrieve it.  I noticed it is not magnetic so my magnetic retrieval tool cannot help me in this cause.   Will this nut just eventually fall out while on future trips down the road or is this something I should really try to find?

 

Afternoon James

 

As long as you are sure that nut didn't go into the alternator then it probably won't cause any problems. Personally I hate loose small  parts  floating around so I usually try my best to recover them. 

 

As for service things-- depends on where you are in the service history, good time to do a TB balance with the tupperware removed. 

 

 

[James in OK]

If you have not yet replaced/rewired the Hall Effect Sensor harness, this is the time.  That may be the one to which you refer, since it is the only known one which fails due to degraded insulation.

 

GSAddict on here rewires them inexpensively and with quick turnaround.

[Miguel!]

Consider removing the charcoal canister if you haven't. This Chris Harris YouTube video tells you how. He has another YouTube video telling you why. 

 

Watching his video on why to remove it is compelling. It is easy to remove. 

 

Also when you put the fairing screws back in, be gentle with them. You don't want to cross thread/strip the inserts. And don't use the stainless steel available on eBay. They don't have the sharp point on he end and are likely strip the insert

 

Best

Miguel

[AndyS]

Well, I'd go after that nut.

As for the job list, in addition to comments above, I'd do a full brake fluid flush and bleed while the ABS unit is accessible.

When was the battery last replaced?

Throttle body balance.

Check your wiring looms for damage especially around the steering head.

Check the alternator belt.

[Werner Karl]

When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter and inspected the fuel lines inside the tank?

[Jimmy2Time]

Wow, that is much more stuff to look at and to do than I expected, and hoped for but fortunately some of the items on this list have been addressed before. 

 

The canister-ectomy was done my mechanic during a level 2 service a few years back.  Fuel filter and gas tank lines also replaced at that time.

I recently had the brake lines replaced with braided line, which include full flush. 

I replaced the leaky exterior fuel lines with new lines and added quick disconnects last year.

Alternator belt replaced when it failed a couple years ago.

Hall Sensor replaced when it failed a few years further back. 

 

I had an odd issue when put everything back together.  Since this is an old RTP, it has the old crash bars up front, where I mounted my fog lights.  I somehow pinched a wire when I reassembled and it caused an unintentional ground that popped the fuse when I turned on the fog lights.  Took a little diagnosis to figure it out, but I realized it was a ground issue during my testing when I only had one wire connected to the left light and during my test, it turned on.  Replaced the pinched wire and all works well.

 

Thanks to all who responded.

 

[bhulse]

James:  I've had the 'opportunity' to learn A LOT about my newly acquired 1999 R1100RT and might add to the list of things to consider attending to while the fairings are removed.  Remove the starter, clean and lubricate the gear mechanism, and consider replacing the left cam chain tensioner.  Because the gear shift linkage catches road debris readily I disassembled and lubed it allowing a smoother shifting experience.  I cleaned the exhaust headers of 40,000 miles of accumulated road tars and baked on road kill that likely didn't do a thing for better running but it allowed me more than a moment of satisfaction when I look at my bike.  Ensure you have good vacuum port caps because a vacuum leak can wreck havoc with running.  And lastly, anytime the fairings come off take two minutes to clean the BBS's! (Big Brass Screws)

 

[Miguel!]

43 minutes ago, bhulse said:

And lastly, anytime the fairings come off take two minutes to clean the BBS's! (Big Brass Screws)

 

Sorry, what are the BBS's?

Miguel

[Michaelr11]

1 hour ago, Miguel! said:

Sorry, what are the BBS's?

 

The air bypass screws, one on each throttle body. Controls the amount of air allowed at idle which controls idle rpm.  BBS - big brass screw.

[Miguel!]

Thx!!