Has anybody bypassed sidestand switch on R1100RT?

[Phrip]

I have a frustrating situation that seems to be caused by my sidestand switch - the bike cuts out intermittently, creating some risky situations.  Runs like a top, then just suddenly stops.  The only thing that hasn't been properly tested is the sidestand switch.  The problem is intermittent.  Doesn't happen for days, then recurs.

 

Has anybody in the group bypassed the sidestand switch on an R1100RT, 95/96 yrs.  

 

I don't want to replace the switch yet - it is pricey.  If the bypass resolves the issue, then I know to sink the $$ for a new switch.  

 

Please, if you have done this bypass, let me know the easiest way to access, and which of the wires in the switch to join in order to make the bypass.  

 

Many thanks!  

 

Mike

[Redman]

I dont know about the 1100RT, but on the 1150RT (m 2002 anyway) can tell if the sidestand circuit is cutting out the ignition. The indication is that the temp gauge and the fuel gauge go blank (guess how long it took me to figure that out).

[dirtrider]

11 hours ago, Phrip said:

I have a frustrating situation that seems to be caused by my sidestand switch - the bike cuts out intermittently, creating some risky situations.  Runs like a top, then just suddenly stops.  The only thing that hasn't been properly tested is the sidestand switch.  The problem is intermittent.  Doesn't happen for days, then recurs.

 

Has anybody in the group bypassed the sidestand switch on an R1100RT, 95/96 yrs.  

 

I don't want to replace the switch yet - it is pricey.  If the bypass resolves the issue, then I know to sink the $$ for a new switch.  

 

Please, if you have done this bypass, let me know the easiest way to access, and which of the wires in the switch to join in order to make the bypass.  

 

Many thanks!  

 

Mike

Morning Mike

 

Yes, a number of riders have by-passed their side stand switch. Real easy to do as there are only 2 wires going to the side stand switch. You just CUT the wires going to the side stand switch then hook the two together on the motorcycle harness side.  Motorcycle side of the side stand switch pigtail connector wire colors are always green/red & green/yellow--  But on the side stand switch side of the connector they are usually green/?? & green/??   (usually green/red & green/yellow, but not always)

 

Just leave enough wire pigtail  on the switch side so you can strip back some insulation then solder the wires back together & cover with heat shrink if the switch isn't the problem. 

 

Those side stand switches usually don't just cut out on their own, sometimes a riders foot will inadvertently hit the retracted  side stand while riding & that can cause a momentary engine cut out, or sometimes the side stand switch gets worn so even a slight movement of the side stand (like hitting a big bump) can cause an engine  cut-out.

 

Before cutting the wires on the side stand switch try  putting the motorcycle on the center stand, then with the side stand UP, start the engine,   THEN lightly move the side stand around & very slightly down. If the engine cuts out with very little side stand wiggle or movement then you might have found your smoking gun. If you have to move the side stand quite a ways to get engine stop,  & no engine cut out with by wiggling the stand then your problem probably lies in another area.  

 

Another place to look is at the wire harness running from the frame to the handlebars in the steering neck area. The red or green wires tend to break near the retaining zip tie & cause intermittent engine cut out.

 

Put motorcycle on center stand, side stand up, then start the engine--  now move the handlebars back & forth slowly, fast, to full lock, etc-- See if you can induce an engine cut out. 

 

You can use Redman's RID cut-out info above to sometimes find an electrical problem (like side stand switch) but keep in mind anything that causes an electrical cut out (like the red or green wire in the steering neck area) can also cause the RID cut out. 

 

 

[Phrip]

Thank you!  That's a really good diagnostic - and super advice.  I've experienced the engine cut out while standing at idle, while running along the road (straight, at a bit of speed) and when leaving from a standing start.  No real pattern to it, computer diagnostics didn't come up with anything, so really weird.  Most of what I see online and in this forum points to sidestand switch.

 

Mike

[dirtrider]

8 minutes ago, Phrip said:

Thank you!  That's a really good diagnostic - and super advice.  I've experienced the engine cut out while standing at idle, while running along the road (straight, at a bit of speed) and when leaving from a standing start.  No real pattern to it, computer diagnostics didn't come up with anything, so really weird.  Most of what I see online and in this forum points to sidestand switch.

 

Mike

Morning Mike

 

You probably won't find anything with the Motronic diagnostics as that old Ma 2.2 system has very limited diagnostic ability, especially when it comes to power interruptions.   

 

Just as a precaution you might replace your #5 fuse in the under seat fuse box. Every now & then those old fuses will develop an internal crack then can become intermittent (kind of a longshot but cheap to try) 

[Phrip]

Thanks!  I hadn't thought about an intermittent problem with a fuse - but electrical cut outs are so tough to figure.  This forum is great, I hope to give back as much as received as time goes on.  

 

Mike

[Tom Y]

Phrip,

 

I had a similar failure mode on a 98  R1100RT   67k mi and the ignition switch was the fault.    I was able to recreate the failure with the bike running on the centerstand and wiggling the wires coming out of the key switch on the left side.   Very intermittent condition where is would cut off all power.   I can send pics video link if you need them.   The switch assembly is not too difficult to replace but all the plastic has to come off.  The switch comes out from the bottom of the key cylinder assembly once a small set screw is removed from the right side.   

 

 

[jeffyjeff]

Back in the day (1970), I crashed my Suzuki 350 after riding off with the side stand down, subsequently encountering a left hand curve at about 50mph.  Leaned over, the stand encountered the pavement and levered the rear wheel off the road.  It happened at night and the sparks were impressive as I fell off the bike and watched it slide and spin down the road ahead of me.  The side stand interlock is an important function, and I appreciate this little tidbit of technology, probably more than most.   I urge you to think twice before discarding your side stand switch as another useless inconvenience.

[dirtrider]

Quote

 

Phrip,

 

I had a similar failure mode on a 98  R1100RT   67k mi and the ignition switch was the fault.    I was able to recreate the failure with the bike running on the centerstand and wiggling the wires coming out of the key switch on the left side.   Very intermittent condition where is would cut off all power.   I can send pics video link if you need them.   The switch assembly is not too difficult to replace but all the plastic has to come off.  The switch comes out from the bottom of the key cylinder assembly once a small set screw is removed from the right side.   

 

Morning Tom 

 

That video is misleading, on the 1100RT there is no need to remove the upper triple tree  (upper fork cross brace)   to replace the ignition switch as the set screw can be accessed in place without removing the upper triple tree.   Just need to lightly scrape the soft  red sealer out of the set screw depression then remove the set screw. 

[Dave P]

Jeffy- I totally agree with you on the sidestand. On my 96 RT the bike will not run with the sidestand down, whether in a gear or in neutral. I can see the need to cut the engine in gear, but why in neutral? Ive learned that at least on my early oilhead, that's how it's designed to work. Id be interested in bypassing the sidestand switch when the bike is in neutral but allow it to be active in a gear. Not a big deal, Ive gotten used to it. Dave

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, Dave P said:

Jeffy- I totally agree with you on the sidestand. On my 96 RT the bike will not run with the sidestand down, whether in a gear or in neutral. I can see the need to cut the engine in gear, but why in neutral? Ive learned that at least on my early oilhead, that's how it's designed to work. Id be interested in bypassing the sidestand switch when the bike is in neutral but allow it to be active in a gear. Not a big deal, Ive gotten used to it. Dave

Morning Dave

 

If you are willing to do a little wiring & add a relay you can get it to stay running in neutral but still shut off if you put side stand down while in gear. (let me know as I probably have a wire diagram showing what wires needing to be accessed  to add that relay)

[DP42]

On 9/21/2020 at 9:45 AM, Dave P said:

Jeffy- I totally agree with you on the sidestand. On my 96 RT the bike will not run with the sidestand down, whether in a gear or in neutral. I can see the need to cut the engine in gear, but why in neutral? Ive learned that at least on my early oilhead, that's how it's designed to work. Id be interested in bypassing the sidestand switch when the bike is in neutral but allow it to be active in a gear. Not a big deal, Ive gotten used to it. Dave

Dave, I'm adding this comment, albeit a little late, in case it may help someone. I spent a year riding my first BMW, a '99 R1100RT, thinking it had to be in Neutral to start it. I never had a bike that was like that, but who was I to question the great German engineers? The problem with my bike was that when you put it in Neutral, it could take up to a minute before the green light come on and I could start the bike. A little embarrassing when you finish pumping gas and there is a line waiting for you to leave. Also very unsafe if you should accidentally stall out in heavy traffic and have to sit and wait for the Neutral indicator to come back on.  I had been able to start all my other bikes by pulling in the clutch, but not this one. I searched for a long time, even spoke to a BMW owner, and nothing pointed me to the problem. One day I came across a post stating that there is a switch in the clutch lever that could be bad. I'm not sure why I didn't think of that, but I trusted the early feedback that I got telling me that was the way it was supposed to be. Ten minutes later I had confirmed the problem. After 20 years on the New England coast, the switch wasn't coming out, so I wired in a switch on the dash.

[dirtrider]

20 minutes ago, DP42 said:

Dave, I'm adding this comment, albeit a little late, in case it may help someone. I spent a year riding my first BMW, a '99 R1100RT, thinking it had to be in Neutral to start it. I never had a bike that was like that, but who was I to question the great German engineers? The problem with my bike was that when you put it in Neutral, it could take up to a minute before the green light come on and I could start the bike. A little embarrassing when you finish pumping gas and there is a line waiting for you to leave. Also very unsafe if you should accidentally stall out in heavy traffic and have to sit and wait for the Neutral indicator to come back on.  I had been able to start all my other bikes by pulling in the clutch, but not this one. I searched for a long time, even spoke to a BMW owner, and nothing pointed me to the problem. One day I came across a post stating that there is a switch in the clutch lever that could be bad. I'm not sure why I didn't think of that, but I trusted the early feedback that I got telling me that was the way it was supposed to be. Ten minutes later I had confirmed the problem. After 20 years on the New England coast, the switch wasn't coming out, so I wired in a switch on the dash.

Afternoon DP42

 

You problem & workaround is for a different issue than this thread is about. Your problem is/was a starting issue with transmission in gear.

 

This thread is about the side stand switch intermittent operation, side stand switch issues, & the 1100 engine not running with the side stand down. The clutch switch is not involved & has no effect on these issues.