wbw6cos Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 I just noticed the vent screw on my rear caliper is leaking at the threads. The reservoir level was at the low mark and I had to add fluid. I cleaned it and took a short ride and it still weeps fluid (better word, I guess.) The screw is not loose as I tried to tighten it; it did not move. I did not try to loosen it. I had it in for the 12k service about 2,000 miles ago and they replaced the fluid as part of that. I have not had a need to mess with it since owning it new, so I guess the dealer needs to make it right, but... in the mean time.... Is there anything I can do to it to stop it from weeping fluid? Should I try to remove it and then re-thread it? Replace with new? How much fluid loss, if any, can I expect if I try to remove/replace? I cannot remember ever needing to do that, but I know that pushing the lever with it off will squirt, so I will NOT do that. LOL I may just take back to the dealer and have them get it sorted. Thanks in advance! Link to comment
dirtrider Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 7 minutes ago, wbw6cos said: I just noticed the vent screw on my rear caliper is leaking at the threads. The reservoir level was at the low mark and I had to add fluid. I cleaned it and took a short ride and it still weeps fluid (better word, I guess.) The screw is not loose as I tried to tighten it; it did not move. I did not try to loosen it. I had it in for the 12k service about 2,000 miles ago and they replaced the fluid as part of that. I have not had a need to mess with it since owning it new, so I guess the dealer needs to make it right, but... in the mean time.... Is there anything I can do to it to stop it from weeping fluid? Should I try to remove it and then re-thread it? Replace with new? How much fluid loss, if any, can I expect if I try to remove/replace? I cannot remember ever needing to do that, but I know that pushing the lever with it off will squirt, so I will NOT do that. LOL I may just take back to the dealer and have them get it sorted. Thanks in advance! Afternoon William You really should get your dealer to deal with it as they are the ones that caused it. (if you don't want to ride it in then call & have them pick the motorcycle up). Otherwise, use a wrench & break it free then re-close it then see if it quits leaking. (might be something in the seat area). Just keep in mind that if you mess with it & it starts leaking more then you probably won't be able to ride it in to the dealer. Link to comment
wbw6cos Posted August 23, 2020 Author Share Posted August 23, 2020 Good afternoon dirtrider, I was sorta already leaning that way. I got 2 k miles out of it to bring the fluid level down to the low mark, so I guess I can get it over to the shop soon and have them address it. Good advice! I had already been looking for leaks on the front calipers (BMW) and so far, so good. I only found the weeping on the rear while inspecting the pads for wear. Best regards, Link to comment
Skywagon Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 As DR said...take it back to dealer. I wouldn't wrench on it as those can break off and that's a real problem they will blame on you. Im sure you know but brake fluid on your paint is a wonderful paint remover....so keep it clean and take it back. Link to comment
Claudio Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 I've had this happen on another bike after flushing/changing the fluid. Small bits of crud can get into the area where the valve seats when tightened causing a bit of a weeping bleeder screw. The solution is to remove it, clean it well and bleed the rear brake again. The dealer should be able to do this for free as it was likely related to the recent service. Link to comment
Ponch Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 It's under warranty. Take it back. Link to comment
wbw6cos Posted August 24, 2020 Author Share Posted August 24, 2020 Thanks. I will get it to the dealer. Link to comment
strataj Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 I go to the dealer for the reasons stated. Speed Bleeder come with a tread sealant. They also sell it https://store-speedbleeder-com.3dcartstores.com/Thread-Sealant_p_19.html Link to comment
strataj Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 30 minutes ago, strataj said: I go to the dealer for the reasons stated. Speed Bleeder come with a tread sealant. They also sell it https://store-speedbleeder-com.3dcartstores.com/Thread-Sealant_p_19.html I use Speed Bleeders, the tread sealant should help stop air from coming into the line while bleeding. Sorry if I confused anyone. Link to comment
AndyS Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 In case the thought had crossed your mind...DO NOT USE PTFE plumbers sealing tape. 1 Link to comment
wbw6cos Posted August 25, 2020 Author Share Posted August 25, 2020 UPDATE: I called the dealer today and they said bring it on by and we will take a look at it. Huh? I was surprised that they could fit me in, but it was raining all day so i had that going for me, which is nice. Anyhoo, they replaced the vent (bleeder) screw as it turns out that it was leaking (weeping) from the hole and NOT the threads as I thought. I do recall it being moist under that cap, so it never dawned on me to think that was the source. They also performed a recall inspection on the BMW/Hayes front calipers. Nothing to report there. I have been keeping an eye on those since I read about it online. I thought my RT was not included in the production run, but I was told that it was. They may have expanded that list to include more bikes. Better safe than sorry. I read about not using pipe thread tape from one of dirtrider's highly knowledgable replies on similar threads. Good stuff. Cheers, 2 Link to comment
Dan M Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 The tapered seat is the seal. Don't add anything to the threads. It just isn't tight enough. Just loosen it a quarter turn and immediately re-tighten it. Air will not be drawn in but you can insure no air will enter if you apply a very slight amount of pressure to the brake pedal to force a small amount of fluid out while opening and immediately shutting the bleeder. This is really all that is wrong. No need to waste a trip to the dealer. Unless the dealer over-tightened and distorted the threads or cracked the bleeder itself, it is very unlikely the bleeder or the bore in the caliper is defective. If so, it would have leaked from day one. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 On 8/25/2020 at 4:12 PM, wbw6cos said: UPDATE: I called the dealer today and they said bring it on by and we will take a look at it. Huh? I was surprised that they could fit me in, but it was raining all day so i had that going for me, which is nice. Anyhoo, they replaced the vent (bleeder) screw as it turns out that it was leaking (weeping) from the hole and NOT the threads as I thought. I do recall it being moist under that cap, so it never dawned on me to think that was the source. They also performed a recall inspection on the BMW/Hayes front calipers. Nothing to report there. I have been keeping an eye on those since I read about it online. I thought my RT was not included in the production run, but I was told that it was. They may have expanded that list to include more bikes. Better safe than sorry. I read about not using pipe thread tape from one of dirtrider's highly knowledgable replies on similar threads. Good stuff. Cheers, Afternoon William Glad it was as simple as just replacing the bleeder screw. (happy ending indeed). Link to comment
wbw6cos Posted August 29, 2020 Author Share Posted August 29, 2020 Good afternoon @dirtrider Just a quick question, as I have never really thought about those bleeder screws, but I am sure you may know the workings of one. To be specific, basically that bleed screw is a "hollow bolt", right? Without too much reseacrh form the interwebs, I want to believe that the part failed because it was not full seated due to damage or crud. Does that sound right? What do you think about the weepage? Thanks again for the insight. Still learning......thanks for the lessons, sir. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 13 minutes ago, wbw6cos said: Good afternoon @dirtrider Just a quick question, as I have never really thought about those bleeder screws, but I am sure you may know the workings of one. To be specific, basically that bleed screw is a "hollow bolt", right? Without too much reseacrh form the interwebs, I want to believe that the part failed because it was not full seated due to damage or crud. Does that sound right? What do you think about the weepage? Thanks again for the insight. Still learning......thanks for the lessons, sir. Evening William Yes, just a hollow bolt with a tapered seat & a hole in the side of it. As you can see in the picture, IF the seat area leaks then the fluid can leak out along the threads and/or out through the center hole. But it usually leaks out of the center hole as there is less resistance through that center hole than along the tighter fitting threads. 1 Link to comment
wbw6cos Posted August 29, 2020 Author Share Posted August 29, 2020 Thanks. I love the detailed pictures/diagrams that you provide. Link to comment
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