1150R transmission removal

[nwtacoma]

I’m tearing the bike apart to split the cases due to a sheared spline input shaft. I’m to the point where I need to pull the paralever to continue. I would have gone forward, but I lack the size Allen socket needed to do so. I will track one down tomorrow. Question, does the final drive assembly need to be removed in “pieces” or as one unit? I have the 32mm socket required to remove the large lock nuts, but lack the large Allen wrench. I’d like to take it out as one unit if possible? 
I drained the tranny and final drive fluids. Both were clean, stinky but not burnt or anything.

 

So, recap, do I need to remove the paralever in pieces or as one unit? 
 

thanks,

- Nick

 

 

[Jim Moore]

The driveshaft is a two-piece unit. The front half is circlipped to the transmission. The rear half is circlipped to the final drive. You could probably do what you're asking, but there would be no way to re-mate the driveshaft pieces in the swingarm tunnel.

 

I've heard of people removing everything from the transmission back in one piece to replace a clutch. That won't work for you since you need the transmission disconnected front and rear.

 

So yes, the driveline needs to come apart in pieces. Btw, you need a 30 mm socket and a 12 mm hex. Also, you need to heat those connections for a LONG time. 

[dirtrider]

4 hours ago, nwtacoma said:

I’m tearing the bike apart to split the cases due to a sheared spline input shaft. I’m to the point where I need to pull the paralever to continue. I would have gone forward, but I lack the size Allen socket needed to do so. I will track one down tomorrow. Question, does the final drive assembly need to be removed in “pieces” or as one unit? I have the 32mm socket required to remove the large lock nuts, but lack the large Allen wrench. I’d like to take it out as one unit if possible? 
I drained the tranny and final drive fluids. Both were clean, stinky but not burnt or anything.

 

So, recap, do I need to remove the paralever in pieces or as one unit? 
 

thanks,

- Nick

 

 

Morning Nick

 

You can remove it as a full unit but a Jim mentioned it won't easily go back together. You can slide the rear gator boot back then pry the rear end of the drive shaft off of the final drive spline then slide the  swing arm rearward & off over the still-attached-at-the-front drive shaft. 

 

Easier & to remove it in pieces as that also allows inspection of the drive shaft  U joints & pivot point & bearings. (at your mileage the pivot pins are probably loose or worn anyway).

 

In any case you are lucky that you didn't have the correct allen wrench as you DO NOT EVER want to remove those pivot bearing studs cold. It is ever so easy to pull the fine threads out of the alloy castings if you don't PROPERLY heat them first (lots of fasteners on the BMW boxer bikes need to be heated to properly remove). (small heat gun or pin-point torch)

 

You need to heat those pivot pins to (248 °F) to release the factory lock-tite before  attempted removal.

 

I strongly suggest that you get (& read) a service manual, or ask here BEFORE you remove things as there are some got-ya's if you don't pay attention to the many cautions called out in the manual. 

[nwtacoma]

Thanks guys. I am watching a Chris Harris video of the whole process of transmission removal & installation. Probably better than a manual because it’s all shown to you. I play a few minutes at a time, perform the described task, watch a little more. I was just curious about taking the final drive as a whole unit as it seemed simpler and also in the video, Chris had found a leak into the driveshaft tunnel but wasn’t sure which end it was puking from. I thought maybe he was tearing it apart to find the culprit. I understand now. He also emphasized the GREAT importance of heating the pivot pins before trying to remove them.

 

So, I need to pick up a 12mm hex and I should be good to go. 
 

The last thing was separating the driveshaft from the output shaft. He used a long punch through the forward pivot pin hole to lever it rearward off the splines. Is that all or is there a C-clip in there as well? 
 

- Nick

[dirtrider]

55 minutes ago, nwtacoma said:

 

The last thing was separating the driveshaft from the output shaft. He used a long punch through the forward pivot pin hole to lever it rearward off the splines. Is that all or is there a C-clip in there as well? 
 

- Nick

Afternoon Nick

 

Personally I'm not impressed with some of those on-line videos (I won't be specific) but just a warning to be warry of some of those on-line short cuts.  They can look good in a video but don't always work as promised. If something doesn't seem right  to you (or seems iffy) then  just post a question here before possibly damaging an expensive part(s).

 

On the drive shaft retention, just a C clip holding it on. Personally I don't pry through the pivot pin hole to avoid alloy or bearing damage but instead pry from underneath.  I usually just slide the swing arm off over the drive shaft,  then remove the drive shaft from the trans.

 

At your mileage you probably want to inspect the shaft & rear U joint anyhow.