1150R with vandalized ignition

[nwtacoma]

Picked up a failed input shaft bike. The ignition was vandalized between breakdown parking and pickup the next morning. These crooks did a number on the ignition. From what I understand, I have to remove the triple tree to access the security bolts which can only be drilled out? Then, dirtrider will walk me through the extraction of the ignition. 
 

I have included photos of what the ignition looks like as it sits. 
 

- Nick

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, nwtacoma said:

Picked up a failed input shaft bike. The ignition was vandalized between breakdown parking and pickup the next morning. These crooks did a number on the ignition. From what I understand, I have to remove the triple tree to access the security bolts which can only be drilled out? Then, dirtrider will walk me through the extraction of the ignition. 
 

I have included photos of what the ignition looks like as it sits. 
 

- Nick

 

 

Afternoon Nick 

 

That looks pretty bad (worse than I thought it would).

 

Ideally, you should be able to put a key in that ignition switch, stick a small pick or small screwdriver into the switch housing slot to depress the lowest tumbler wafer, then simply pull the switch barrel out of the switch assembly. 

 

In your case that won't be possible. Not only will you not be able to put a key in that switch but I presume the forks are still locked (correct)? 

 

It's that "locked forks" that  might cause you the problems getting it apart enough to work with.

 

IF, the forks were not locked then you should be able to drill the heads off of the screws holding the ignition switch on then just slide the entire switch down & off of the screw shanks.

 

That might not be possible with the ignition switch lock pin extended into the steering neck hole.

 

Even removing the entire upper triple tree might be a fight if you can't move the tree far enough to get the lock pin out of the neck hole. 

 

I  t-h-i-n-k it will come off even with the lock pin extended BUT (personally) I have never had to deal with  getting one apart with the lock pin extended. 

 

So the first thing that I suggest it to remove the lower (actual switch part) so that doesn't get damaged in trying to get it apart. (not difficult to do).

 

See next posting below_____     

 

[dirtrider]

More__

 

To remove the bottom (electrical) switch, you need to remove the red sealer over the retaining set screw, then remove the set screw, then pull the switch out. 

 

At that time (IF) the fuel system is intact then you should be able to stick a screwdriver  into that electrical switch, turn it to on, then start the engine as normal.   

 

 

[nwtacoma]

4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Nick 

 

That looks pretty bad (worse than I thought it would).

In your case that won't be possible. Not only will you not be able to put a key in that switch but I presume the forks are still locked (correct)? 

 

You are correct. The forks are still locked. I can’t see how it’s possible to get to anything under the ignition without pulling the upper tree. I am wanting to start here and reassemble the bike (tank, wires, fuel lines) that the PO removed to verify she runs before going through the trouble of rebuilding the trans

 

 

[dirtrider]

6 minutes ago, nwtacoma said:

You are correct. The forks are still locked. I can’t see how it’s possible to get to anything under the ignition without pulling the upper tree. I am wanting to start here and reassemble the bike (tank, wires, fuel lines) that the PO removed to verify she runs before going through the trouble of rebuilding the trans

 

 

Evening Nick

 

That's definitely the safest approach. Get it running just to verify.

 

If you can handle that motorcycle with the forks still locked then just remove that bottom white (electrical) switch from the upper switch assembly  (if you can get to it with the forks locked)-- That is the easy way to make it run without cutting or jumping wires. 

 

The upper triple tree will remove fairly easily once you get to it.  If you have something above the motorcycle (like a rafter or tree limb) you can just use straps or rope to hold the bars up as you remove the triple tree below them. 

 

 

 

 

 

[nwtacoma]

Working on it now. The set screw, is that an Allen screw or flat head? It’s covered with sealer and I haven’t verified yet. 

[dirtrider]

25 minutes ago, nwtacoma said:

Working on it now. The set screw, is that an Allen screw or flat head? It’s covered with sealer and I haven’t verified yet. 

Evening Nick

 

 

[nwtacoma]

Sorry for the lack of update. I was able to get the White part of the ignition switch out. Reinstalled the tank and necessary electrical, mind you I wasn’t the one that disassembled it. Long story short, after a frustrating few minutes of fuel pump priming but no cranking, I finally realized it had to be in neutral. A couple cranks over and she fires right up. Sputtered and died a few times.... air passing the injectors I suspect. That’s when I also discovered the cold choke lever. Ran better after that but the nasty sounds she was making trying to grab the sheared input shaft I couldn’t take it. 

So, no other options here but to remove the bars and triple tree and start drilling? I think once the steering lock mechanism is unbolted, it shouldn’t be an issue removing it, but, I’m not sure how to get it out of the tree once at that point. Any ideas? 
 

- Nick

[dirtrider]

4 hours ago, nwtacoma said:

Sorry for the lack of update. I was able to get the White part of the ignition switch out. Reinstalled the tank and necessary electrical, mind you I wasn’t the one that disassembled it. Long story short, after a frustrating few minutes of fuel pump priming but no cranking, I finally realized it had to be in neutral. A couple cranks over and she fires right up. Sputtered and died a few times.... air passing the injectors I suspect. That’s when I also discovered the cold choke lever. Ran better after that but the nasty sounds she was making trying to grab the sheared input shaft I couldn’t take it. 

So, no other options here but to remove the bars and triple tree and start drilling? I think once the steering lock mechanism is unbolted, it shouldn’t be an issue removing it, but, I’m not sure how to get it out of the tree once at that point. Any ideas? 
 

- Nick

Morning Nick 

 

Your fuel injected BMW doesn't really  have a choke, it is labeled a choke (carryover term)  but it neither chokes nor enrichens anything. If you look closely at it's function you will see it is ONLY a fast idle device.  

 

The steering lock mechanism is part of the ignition switch assembly.  

 

Once you get the triple tree removed (hopefully you can slide the unbolted triple tree forward & sideways enough to get the steering lock pin to disengage from the steering neck) you can then turn it over, then drill the heads off of the security screws (that is the only way to get the switch removed). The switch should then slide out of the triple tree & off of the (headless) security screws. Seeing as that screwdriver tip is jammed between the switch & the tree casting you might have to use a piece of round wood to drive the switch out. 

 

Once you get the switch off over the headless security screws you can then use vice grips to spin the security screw stubs out. Do not install new security screws, just use standard caps screws or button head screws of appropriate length. 

 

Once you get the switch assembly removed from the triple tree we can hopefully figure out IF we can get the lock barrel drilled out enough (without damaging the switch housing)  to release the tumblers so you can get the damaged barrel out. 

 

 

[nwtacoma]

Thanks dirtrider! 
 

I'm going to focus on the drive parts of the bikes issues first so I can get parts ordered and on their way since that is a more drawn out process. Once I know exactly what I’ll need there, I will order and then move onto the ignition. 
 

The fast idle looks like a choke symbol. I thought to myself, I’ve never seen a choke on fuel injection system, but the idle speed increase makes total sense! Open up the butterfly and the F/I compensates. 
 

I will keep focused on the drive and update on this portion once I’m there. 
 

- Nick

[dirtrider]

1 minute ago, nwtacoma said:

Thanks dirtrider! 
 

I'm going to focus on the drive parts of the bikes issues first so I can get parts ordered and on their way since that is a more drawn out process. Once I know exactly what I’ll need there, I will order and then move onto the ignition. 
 

The fast idle looks like a choke symbol. I thought to myself, I’ve never seen a choke on fuel injection system, but the idle speed increase makes total sense! Open up the butterfly and the F/I compensates. 
 

I will keep focused on the drive and update on this portion once I’m there. 
 

- Nick

Afternoon Nick

 

Be careful in how you support that motorcycle while working on it--- If doing other than just light maintenance be sure to use a ratchet strap or rope to tie the center stand to the front wheel or front exhaust. It is VERY easy to knock the BMW 1100/1150 motorcycle off of the center stand while working on them as just a little push at the right time can send the center stand back over center, then over she goes.    

 

 

[nwtacoma]

2 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Nick

 

Be careful in how you support that motorcycle while working on it--- If doing other than just light maintenance be sure to use a ratchet strap or rope to tie the center stand to the front wheel or front exhaust. It is VERY easy to knock the BMW 1100/1150 motorcycle off of the center stand while working on them as just a little push at the right time can send the center stand back over center, then over she goes.    

 

 

 

Good advice there as well!! Especially with my 5yr old, ever curious son who is MORE than willing to help!

Off topic here a bit, but, I love that he wants to be out here "helping" and learning. Most of the time he is reorganizing my socket and wrench drawers of the tool chest or jumping on his bicycle which he just learned to ride. We have a little 50cc dirt bike that he's learning on and we split time between it and a '99 Honda XR100 the he loves to bomb on with me. He's already demanding to learn the shifting and is a chip off the old block when it comes to throttle control. WOT most of the time. My 13 yr old daughter was pumped about wrenching on it as well but unfortunately just sprained her ankle and will be down for another week or two.

Anyways, yes, very good advice! Don't need a big heavy bike falling on him... or me for that matter!

 

Thanks!