headlight connector problem

[jjpen]

One of my headlights quit working so I tried unplugging the connector to see if that might be the problem.  When I plugged the connector back in it had very little resistance and now I only have one headlight with no parking lights.  I suspect that the part of the connector that is on the headlight unit has failed in some manner.  before I take the unit out does anyone have any input?

[dirtrider]

30 minutes ago, jjpen said:

One of my headlights quit working so I tried unplugging the connector to see if that might be the problem.  When I plugged the connector back in it had very little resistance and now I only have one headlight with no parking lights.  I suspect that the part of the connector that is on the headlight unit has failed in some manner.  before I take the unit out does anyone have any input?

Morning jjpen

 

You have a double posting____

 

Without a picture or a more  detailed explanation of what the connector terminals look like we are guessing in the dark.

 

My first suggestion is to install a new bulb on the dead side, then while the bulb connector is removed from the bulb inspect that for brown or  burnt looking terminals.

 

The problem is usually a bad bulb or burnt loose connector terminals.

 

Get the headlight  working first then   see if the side light comes back on. 

 

[Pappy35]

Those plastic connectors are crap.Back when I was doing my LED upgrade two of the three turned to dust in my fingers (ok, a little hyperbolic, but they did fall apart).

 

I replaced them with these. The OEM connector (the metal inserts inside the plastic housings) if in these perfectly so there's no mucking about with crimping new ones. Just cut open the OEM plastic housings to extract the connector and insert them in these. Done. These exact ones are on a long back-order but I posted the link to give you an idea of what's out there. Look around for something similar, if you can't find them, I might have a couple leftover.

[Pappy35]

These look pretty similar. Key is the right angle. That will let you use the OEM insert.

 

 

...and here's another one.

[jjpen]

The connector I am talking about is where the wiring harness plugs into the headlight assembly

[dirtrider]

22 minutes ago, jjpen said:

The connector I am talking about is where the wiring harness plugs into the headlight assembly

Afternoon  jjpen

 

That makes a slight difference. You might unseat that connector again, then look to see if any of the pins in the headlight  assembly are bent, or if any of the pins on the connector side are pushed back. 

 

Then reinstall the connector making sure the  connector is fully seated into the headlight housing socket.  

 

You have posted in two different  model forums, are you working on a hexhead or a camhead 1200 BMW? 

[chrisolson]

2 hours ago, jjpen said:

The connector I am talking about is where the wiring harness plugs into the headlight assembly

 

 

2 hours ago, dirtrider said:

are you working on a hexhead or a camhead 1200 BMW?

are you working on a hexhead or a camhead 1200 BMW? 

 

 

JJpen .....

It would help those who are attempting to help solve your problem if you would update your bike information so we could address this in the appropriate forum. .... thanks 

 

 

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Depending upon exactly what the problem is, you can get a jumper extension of that socket at your local APS.  I did that not too long ago and avoided some contortionist work in the future.  Somewhere in the range of 4 to 6 inches comes to mind for the jumper length.  If the socket is damaged, tie wrap and tape might work to hold that new connection on to the jumper.

[jjpen]

I am working on a 2010 but I am real sure the connector is the same.

[lkraus]

A few years ago, I had an issue with that six-conductor socket being pushed back too far into the headlight housing. The tabs on either side of the socket were not expanding enough to resist the force needed to insert the plug.  With the housing off the bike, I held the socket in place with needle nose pliers while jamming a couple bits of plastic wire insulation between the tabs and socket body so that the tabs could not collapse.   

[jjpen]

Thank you Ikraus.  Your info was spot on.  shims on each side of the connector and all is good.