97 R1100RT Fairing support cracked

[JimmR75]

I have a '97 R1100RT with ~ 85K miles on it that is in very good condition.  I was riding it yesterday and realized that the front fairing and windshield assembly was bouncing vertically.  

 

Inspection reveals that the boss / bracket on the front of the front frame assembly where the fairing support attaches appears to be cracked off.  See the picture and parts fiche diagram below. 

 

Is there any fix here beyond replacing the front frame assembly?  This is my third Oilhead and I have never heard of anything like this.  

 

 

[dirtrider]

19 minutes ago, JimmR75 said:

I have a '97 R1100RT with ~ 85K miles on it that is in very good condition.  I was riding it yesterday and realized that the front fairing and windshield assembly was bouncing vertically.  

 

Inspection reveals that the boss / bracket on the front of the front frame assembly where the fairing support attaches appears to be cracked off.  See the picture and parts fiche diagram below. 

 

Is there any fix here beyond replacing the front frame assembly?  This is my third Oilhead and I have never heard of anything like this.  

 

 

 

Afternoon JimmR75

 

Best fix is a new frame, next best is to have yours welded up (properly). 

 

You might be able to use some steel straps &  make an external support(s) to fasten that  front fairing support to the main casting. (this will have to be determined by actually looking at it in person then making a decision as the work progresses to see if this is possible).

[JimmR75]

Dirt Rider, I don't see a good solution short of replacing the frame to be frank.  I don't want to shortcut this.

 

How much disassembly is involved in replacing this frame?  Can this be done without removing the front fairing, suspension, etc.?

 

 

[dirtrider]

56 minutes ago, JimmR75 said:

Dirt Rider, I don't see a good solution short of replacing the frame to be frank.  I don't want to shortcut this.

 

How much disassembly is involved in replacing this frame?  Can this be done without removing the front fairing, suspension, etc.?

 

 

Afternoon JimmR75

 

LOTS need to be disassembled to replace that part. (it's a big time consuming job)

 

I can't give you a step by step as I can't remember ever JUST replacing that piece. On the ones I have changed it was part a of a larger or different job & I had most apart already.  

[Miguel!]

I broke a turn signal stalk on my Inder trailer which was a hard rubber. Replacements are not available. I tried Loctite 40140 Clear 40140 401 Prism Surface Insensitive Instant Adhesive. It has held for  couple years now. We have since used it on rubber, plastic, glass, wood, metal and pottery. We even used it to glue on a handle to small pottery bowl that broke months ago. It is still holding and survives the dishwasher. I also used it to glue on a couple tabs on the fairing which has held perfectly. You might give it a shot. It's expensive ($17 for 20 ml) but we've found it the best product we've tried, and we do a LOT of projects and have  tried a wide variety of adhesives. Its our go-to adhesive for small projects.  I just checked and we have purchased 5 bottle of it in over the last two years. 

 

You might try a bottle on a similar metal and see how it holds up to stress. Otherwise, sounds like you'll need to replace it. 

 

Hope that helps!

Miguel

[JimmR75]

What electrical connections, grounds, etc. do I need to consider disconnecting if the decision is taken to weld this on the bike.  I can't imagine that the current introduced by welding is not hazardous to numerous components and systems on the bike.  

 

Any input or recommendations are appreciated and invited. 

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, JimmR75 said:

What electrical connections, grounds, etc. do I need to consider disconnecting if the decision is taken to weld this on the bike.  I can't imagine that the current introduced by welding is not hazardous to numerous components and systems on the bike.  

 

Any input or recommendations are appreciated and invited. 

Morning  JimmR75

 

Depends on who is doing the welding, if the welder knows his stuff & gets a CLEAN solid ground as close to  the weld as possible then nothing needs to be disconnected.

 

If they ground their weld  neg. clamp at the rear of the motorcycle then weld on the front  then as many electronic containing things need to disconnected as possible. 

 

Might disconnect the battery neg cable  anyhow but not really needed with a competent welder. 

[MarinPhil]

Clean off the break from any paint. Sand clean. Get a clamp that will fit in there and use JB Weld- 2 part epoxy. I have used it many times and it will “weld” both sections.  Give it a few days to fully cure.