tasslehawf Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 The bike will crank but won't turn over. If I give it throttle it will run but if I let go, it will die. Six months ago I performed an abs-ectomy on my servo brakes (the rears had already failed). When I put the bike back together, the bike wouldn't turn over. - I have since tried replacing the fuel pump controller and the fuel pump. (my Hex tool tells me its the fuel pump controller). - I also tried bypass the fuel pump controller. - I have also cleaned the fuel injectors. - I also tried the key on, cycle the throttle 3 times, key off. - I have checked the throttle body and anything else I might have touched, and haven't found anything - I'm baffled. I still want to try Idle Actuator Calibration. Its worth noting that the bike has sat for months (outside for the first stretch of 10 months) and then inside for another 5 months. What happened was I'd had an issue with what turned out to be the key switch where I was stranded on a Monday morning after winter break (Jan 2019). I thought it was electrical (specifically the alternator) and tried to figure it out on my own. The bike sat outside for 10 months before I took it to a mechanic. By this time the rear servo brakes had failed. Once we realized it was just the key switch, I had no further problems if I made sure to take my key chain off. I rode the bike around for a few months with no rear brakes then Dec 2019 I took the brakes apart and replaced the servos with direct brake lines. When I put the bike back together, it was in the state it is now. The mechanic won't look at the bike because I "disabled safety equipment" by removing the servo brakes so I've been on my own and no luck so far. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 5 minutes ago, tasslehawf said: Six months ago I performed an abs-ectomy on my servo brakes (the rears had already failed). When I put the bike back together, the bike wouldn't turn over. - I have since tried replacing the fuel pump controller and the fuel pump. (my Hex tool tells me its the fuel pump controller). - I also tried bypass the fuel pump controller. - I have also cleaned the fuel injectors. - I also tried the key on, cycle the throttle 3 times, key off. - I have checked the throttle body and anything else I might have touched, and haven't found anything - I'm baffled. I still want to try Idle Actuator Calibration. Afternoon tasslehawf Engine won't turn over (won't crank) or will it crank over but won't start??? (we need t know on this) Idle actuators re-calibrate themselves every time you turn the key on. Tell us if it will crank over on the starter then we can go form there. Link to comment
tasslehawf Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 1 hour ago, dirtrider said: Afternoon tasslehawf Engine won't turn over (won't crank) or will it crank over but won't start??? (we need t know on this) Idle actuators re-calibrate themselves every time you turn the key on. Tell us if it will crank over on the starter then we can go form there. Bike will crank but won't turn over. Also, if I give it throttle, it will run but it won't idle. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 21 minutes ago, tasslehawf said: Bike will crank but won't turn over. Also, if I give it throttle, it will run but it won't idle. Afternoon tasslehawf Ok, we are getting closer. Then it WILL run if you give it enough throttle?? Are both side throttle bodies FULLY closing at idle? Is the R/H side short throttle cable pulled up out of the adjuster at the throttle body. Is the R/H side short throttle cable routed correctly around the air filter snorkel? Are ALL the throttle cables pushed all the way into the cable splitter box (L/H side of motorcycle, just follow the L/H TB cable back to the splitter box. Is either side throttle body plastic cam severely cracked, or broken. Try starting it then see if both side exhaust pipes get about the same temperature (or is on side colder then the other?) How do you remove the ABS system? Did you retain the ABS electronic box? Link to comment
alexvtr Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 I experienced the same symptomes (bike won't fire up unless you give it throttle and won't hold idle once started) when I disconnected by mistake the air temperature measurement (IAT) connector situated on the top left corner of the airbox (when sitting on the bike). Since it's pretty near the ABS module, it's plausible you disconnected it by mistake... It may not be your problem but at least it won't cost you anything to verify! :-) Link to comment
dirtrider Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 14 minutes ago, alexvtr said: I experienced the same symptomes (bike won't fire up unless you give it throttle and won't hold idle once started) when I disconnected by mistake the air temperature measurement (IAT) connector situated on the top left corner of the airbox (when sitting on the bike). Since it's pretty near the ABS module, it's plausible you disconnected it by mistake... It may not be your problem but at least it won't cost you anything to verify! :-) Evening alexvtr That shouldn't have much effect on tasslehawf's 2006 1200RT in warmer weather as with the IAT disconnected the BMS-K should default to a nominal 68° +/- ambient temperature. In real cold weather it might hinder starting a little unless the throttle is held open but in warm weather it shouldn't cause a non-idle after starting. Link to comment
alexvtr Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 19 hours ago, dirtrider said: Evening alexvtr That shouldn't have much effect on tasslehawf's 2006 1200RT in warmer weather as with the IAT disconnected the BMS-K should default to a nominal 68° +/- ambient temperature. In real cold weather it might hinder starting a little unless the throttle is held open but in warm weather it shouldn't cause a non-idle after starting. You may be right... Now that I think about it, I believe the connector that was disconnected and caused my bike to barely run was an identical connector to the IAT but one that connects to the throttle body on the left hand side (square connector with a retaining clip). So I guess it's the signal / power to the injector? Which would be consequent to a bike that runs poorly since it runs on one pot only... Link to comment
tasslehawf Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 Although I cleaned the injectors, I didn't test that they were opening on the bike. Will add to my list to check. Link to comment
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