Rear Brakes Wearing Out FAST!!!!!

[Boda]

I have an 03RT that had just over 24K when I brought it in for its 2yr/24K service. I had already changed the rear pads once (with almost no pad left), and had to change the rear pads again (NO pad left) as well as the rear rotor (because there was no pad left!) just to get it to the dealer. I know, my fault for not keeping up on visuall brake inspections. Anyway, after the pad and rotor change, the bike was not ridden until the trip to the shop, approx 160 miles. Upon arrival, I noticed that the rotor was arleady blueing!!! I mentioned this to the shop and was assured it would be checked. I was told that I was riding the rear brakes while I rode!! Can anyone say linked??? Anyway, I was then given my computer report that stated that out of 2yrs of riding, can't remember running hrs, that may brake application between the front and rear was different by only around 3 min.

I don't undrestand why my rears are wearing much faster than my fronts, which BTW, haven't been changed yet and still look good.

Anyone else have this problem or know of a solution to correct it, or should I just suck it up and be more vigilant in my visual brake inspections?

[Reddog900]

Check the search feature for this site. A recent thread within teh last 5 days dealt with a similar problem. Some folks have found that their rear caliper is hanging up on the guide pins which allows the disc to rub against the rotor even when no pressure is applied to the brake system, leads to premature wear and overheating of the rotor.

 

Solution is to take the cailper off and clean off the guide pin for smooth unrestricted movement on the guide pin.

 

Ride Safe

[Kenny2]

Emery paper and some anti seize on the pin.

[SAAB93driver]

The rear pads on my R1150RS also wear very fast and I almost never used the foot lever. I replaced them at 20K with about 15% pad left.

 

I did a test, ran on a straight backroad at about 65 mph for a couple miles and coasted to a stop - ie no brake front or rear - rear rotor was not hot or even really warm to touch so rear brake drag is not the culprit. It think the linked system can be too rear brake biased.

[wolcott]

I also saw in advance auto parts today, permatex caliper slide & pin grease specifically made for caliper pins and guides. Someone referred to it the other day as looking like "mint jelly". Thats the stuff- under $3.00.

[DEF]

Emery paper and some anti seize on the pin.

 

Good advice...rough the rear rotor up well.

Remove the caliper, remove the pads, clean the caliper, anti-squeal clip and the slot liner clip.

 

Grease the rear of each pad sparingly with moly grease (careful…none on the friction surfaces).

 

Split the caliper and grease both alignment pins with moly grease, reassemble and ride on. Your pads will wear evenly. Remember, BMW rear rotors and pads are soft and the pads do wear rather quickly. I use OE pads as replacements to keep the rotors happy. Expect to replace them at about 10,000 miles.

[axabmw]

Did you replace the disc (rotor) with an original one?

Why I ask is I changed the disc on 1998 GL1500SE for an aftermarket one and installed new genuine pads. 150 miles later I heard noises from the rear wheel area. On inspection I had NO pad material left at all. It was as if the pads had got hot enough to melt the bonding adhesive.

We fitted a good secondhand pair of aftermarket pads, a make I don't normally like, and they were still on the bike when it was sold.

On my R1150RT 2004, I got about 17,000 miles on the first set of rears, 18,000 on the second set of rears, but the third set are well worn after about 9,000 miles.

The fronts lasted 41,000 miles for the original set.