Brake lights stay on after new brake lines installed

[Jimmy2Time]

Just a couple months ago, I had a local shop replace my brake lines on my 99 R1100RT and with that job they flushed the hydraulic fluid.  This happened after the brakes were super soft and squishy when taking the bike out for the first ride after winter hibernation.

 

Everything seemed fine and the brakes worked just great.  Took it for a couple rides, solo and didn't have any issues as far as I could tell.  Of course, one does not see the brake lights as you are driving...

 

I went riding recently with a buddy.  When we stopped for a break, he told my that my brake lights were staying on most of the ride.  We tested this on the side of the road and when I used both the hand lever and/or foot pedal , the brake lights stayed on.  I was frustrated.  The brakes themselves seem fine.

On the way home, when we were stopped at stoplight, he told me that the brake lights were working normally.  

 

Got home and tested it out, the brake lights worked normally and it all seemed fine.  Thought it was weird.  

 

Just checked it this morning and the brake lights stay on.  Tested both the hand lever and foot brake individually and the lights stayed on.  Sometimes, after turning the key to the off position and back to on, the brake lights were still activated.

 

So, just wondering what I can check or should I bring it back to the shop to see if it something related to the brake line replacement.  

 

 

[szurszewski]

I'd probably start by taking it back to the shop - always nice if it turns out to be their mistake and can be easily fixed. Where did you take it for the brake work?

[Jimmy2Time]

Cheshire Motorsports in Portland, Oregon.  In my experience they usually do good work, are reasonable and very good with communication about what needs work vs what can wait.

 

[szurszewski]

I thought that might be where you’d gone, and in that case I’d definitely call Daric as my first step - or just ride the bike over there. Even if it’s not related to the line replacement I’m sure he’ll have a couple quick suggestions. 

[dirtrider]

3 hours ago, Jimmy2Time said:

Just a couple months ago, I had a local shop replace my brake lines on my 99 R1100RT and with that job they flushed the hydraulic fluid.  This happened after the brakes were super soft and squishy when taking the bike out for the first ride after winter hibernation.

 

Everything seemed fine and the brakes worked just great.  Took it for a couple rides, solo and didn't have any issues as far as I could tell.  Of course, one does not see the brake lights as you are driving...

 

I went riding recently with a buddy.  When we stopped for a break, he told my that my brake lights were staying on most of the ride.  We tested this on the side of the road and when I used both the hand lever and/or foot pedal , the brake lights stayed on.  I was frustrated.  The brakes themselves seem fine.

On the way home, when we were stopped at stoplight, he told me that the brake lights were working normally.  

 

Got home and tested it out, the brake lights worked normally and it all seemed fine.  Thought it was weird.  

 

Just checked it this morning and the brake lights stay on.  Tested both the hand lever and foot brake individually and the lights stayed on.  Sometimes, after turning the key to the off position and back to on, the brake lights were still activated.

 

So, just wondering what I can check or should I bring it back to the shop to see if it something related to the brake line replacement.  

 

 

Evening Jimmy

 

Although the shop should have checked the brake light function ( and they might very well have done that but didn't see a problem due to the intermittent function),  what you had done probably isn't directly related to your lights-staying-on problem.

 

Your brake light staying on is probably either a malfunctioning brake switch (usually a slightly bent reed on the front hand lever brake switch).

 

Or some crud in the a master cylinder bore causing a sticking internal piston that is not fully returning to it's out stop.

 

My guess is the shop that did the  work will repair it for free if it is just a simple switch adjustment, but might charge you if it takes parts (like a new switch) or master cylinder disassembly, or M/C replacment.   

[Jimmy2Time]

12 minutes ago, szurszewski said:

I thought that might be where you’d gone, and in that case I’d definitely call Daric as my first step - or just ride the bike over there. Even if it’s not related to the line replacement I’m sure he’ll have a couple quick suggestions. 

 

He just responded to tell me to swing on by for him to have a quick check.  He said it sounds like a switch is sticking.  I hope he's right.

[szurszewski]

That’s what it sounds like to me too, but I don’t remember the wiring on that bike well enough to remember have a good guess on what would be sticking regardless of which lever you use for the brakes. 
 

He won’t remember me, but tell him I say hello anyway

[dirtrider]

6 minutes ago, szurszewski said:

That’s what it sounds like to me too, but I don’t remember the wiring on that bike well enough to remember have a good guess on what would be sticking regardless of which lever you use for the brakes. 
 

Evening  szurszewski

 

Both front & rear brake light switches are just simple reed switches, the front is a straight reed & the rear switch has a sort of strange looking reed with a right angle paddle on it. 

 

The 1100 switches seldom stick, the most likely thing that happens  is a slightly bent reed from years of being applied. Usually a simple thing to just lightly re-contour the reed (make it straight again) & the brake light staying on problem goes away. 

 

 

[szurszewski]

4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Evening  szurszewski

 

Both front & rear brake light switches are just simple reed switches, the front is a straight reed & the rear switch has a sort of strange looking reed with a right angle paddle on it. 

 

The 1100 switches seldom stick, the most likely thing that happens  is a slightly bent reed from years of being applied. Usually a simple thing to just lightly re-contour the reed (make it straight again) & the brake light staying on problem goes away. 

 

 

Hopefully that’s what it is and just happens that both switches are somewhat “sticky”. 
 

Seems odd that both would be acting up now, but perhaps one - or both - has been that way for a long time and just wasn’t noticed until now. As the OP said, most of us never seldom see our own brake lights. 

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, szurszewski said:

Hopefully that’s what it is and just happens that both switches are somewhat “sticky”. 
 

Seems odd that both would be acting up now, but perhaps one - or both - has been that way for a long time and just wasn’t noticed until now. As the OP said, most of us never seldom see our own brake lights. 

Morning   szurszewski  

 

My guess is that both switches  are not acting up together, that would be an outlier to the normal failure mode.

 

It only takes one of the 2 brake light switches to put the brake light on so either one could the problem. (usually the front if a bent reed or sticky piston). Rear causing the issue is usually something caught in the switch area like a piece of long grass or a stone. 

 

 

[Jimmy2Time]

Quick update.  Took the bike to Cheshire Motorsports and Daric checked the switches.  Front switch appeared to be working normally. 

He crawled underneath the bike and worked the brake pedal back and forth and determined that I probably have a sticky switch in the brake.  When you work the pedal, the first thing you should hear is the slight "click" of the switch engaging and that click was intermittent.  So, I'll be replacing the switch.

 

It was a nice afternoon so I took the bike for a quick ride and when I decided to take a quick break, I stupidly parked on a slight grade, improperly.  I thought it was solidly parked but I got off and in less than 5 seconds it started to tip over.  I couldn't catch and it went down gently.  Unfortunately, the right case cover hit the curb first and broke the two latch pieces(?) that the locks the side case cover.  I had to jerry rig a bungee cord to keep the side case cover closed for the ride home.  This is not the standard case but a city case for RTP.

Looking for advice on how to reapply and repair these pieces.  ABS cement?  Plastix?

 

If it isn't one thing, it's another...

 

Edited June 12, 2020 by Jimmy2Time
incorrect terminology and clarification

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, Jimmy2Time said:

  Unfortunately, the right case cover hit the curb first and broke the two latch pieces(?) that the locks the side case cover.  I had to jerry rig a bungee cord to keep the side case cover closed for the ride home.  This is not the standard case but a city case for RTP.

Looking for advice on how to reapply and repair these pieces.  ABS cement?  Plastix?

 

If it isn't one thing, it's another...

 

Afternoon Jimmy 

 

Post us some pictures of what you are dealing with then  we can probably offer specific help on repairing the breakage. 

[Jimmy2Time]

Just now, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Jimmy 

 

Post us some pictures of what you are dealing with then  we can probably offer specific help on repairing the breakage. 

 

Hello Dirtrider.  I decided it would be better to start a new topic instead of mixing my multiple problems into one topic.

New one is here.