can I set timing with a test lite

[steveg]

After I install the new HES the timing will need to be set, there are elaborate methods on the net by building a timing box but there must be a simpler way by using a test lite

[Jim Moore]

Imo you're overthinking it. Set it in the center, or use the witness marks from the previous HES.

[dirtrider]

29 minutes ago, steveg said:

After I install the new HES the timing will need to be set, there are elaborate methods on the net by building a timing box but there must be a simpler way by using a test lite

Afternoon Steveg

 

What are you working on? Difference between an 1100 (Ma 2.2) & an 1150 (Ma 2.4) system.

 

In either case you can't use a test light but can use a timing light, or build a timing box, or even use the fuel-pump-on trigger point.  

 

At the very least make the ends of your present HES before removal then re-install the new one in the same location (that will probably be close but not exact) but  that is a good starting point to work from.

 

 

[steveg]

16 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Steveg

 

What are you working on? Difference between an 1100 (Ma 2.2) & an 1150 (Ma 2.4) system.

 

In either case you can't use a test light but can use a timing light, or build a timing box, or even use the fuel-pump-on trigger point.  

 

At the very least make the ends of your present HES before removal then re-install the new one in the same location (that will probably be close but not exact) but  that is a good starting point to work from.

 

 

2000 R1100RT

[dirtrider]

44 minutes ago, steveg said:

2000 R1100RT

Afternoon Steveg

 

OK, an 1100, that has the Motronic 2.2 so using the fuel pump turn on point is difficult as the pump doesn't come on at BDC like the 1150 does.  You can probably use the fuel pump turn-on-point with the 1100 if you have an operational (factory set) HES now as you can mark the pulley or the flywheel  at pump turn-on than just match that with the new HES.

 

Do you have a timing light? 

 

Do you have a voltmeter?  

 

Either of those can be used to check the 1100 base timing. 

[steveg]

5 hours ago, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Steveg

 

OK, an 1100, that has the Motronic 2.2 so using the fuel pump turn on point is difficult as the pump doesn't come on at BDC like the 1150 does.  You can probably use the fuel pump turn-on-point with the 1100 if you have an operational (factory set) HES now as you can mark the pulley or the flywheel  at pump turn-on than just match that with the new HES.

 

Do you have a timing light? 

 

Do you have a voltmeter?  

 

Either of those can be used to check the 1100 base timing. 

yes on timing light and voltmeter

[Mattlo]

7 hours ago, Jim Moore said:

Imo you're overthinking it. Set it in the center, or use the witness marks from the previous HES.

 

Agree.  

 

I built an HES timing light from instructions someone posted.  It involves an LED, several alligator clips and a 9V battery.  Clips are attached to correct leads in the HES plug.  Rotate the HES until LED light goes out.  You can google "oilhead hes sensor light" and look for a PDF instructions if interested.

 

In the end, new HES position was same as witness marks from the HES that was removed.

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, steveg said:

yes on timing light and voltmeter

Evening Steveg

 

You can use either, but a timing light works good as you can check it dynamically.

 

There are timing marks on the clutch/flywheel assembly with a timing hole on the R/H side rear of the engine (rubber plug sealing the timing hole)   

"OT"= (top dead center), -- Engine cranks & starts at this timing,

"Z" =  (full advance) -- A far as the Motronic can advance the spark at high RPM's,

"S" = (the 6 degrees advanced).  -- once engine is running the Motronic adds the 6°, 

 

 With a warm  engine & using a timing light (on either spark plug wire),

 

 looking through the timing hole & using a timing light the light should flash as the  "OT"= (top dead center) is centered in the timing hole while cranking (you can check this if you unplug the fuel injectors, or remove the fuel pump relay so it won't squirt any fuel in preventing the engine from starting.

 

With the engine running  at (1000 RPM or less), the timing advance should  be very close to the "S" mark.

 

When revving the engine until the spark won't advance any higher you should see the  "Z" =  (full advance) centered in the timing hole. 

 

If you would rather use a voltmeter let me know, that only checks the static timing same a home built timing box. 

[steveg]

3 minutes ago, Mattlo said:

 

Agree.  

 

I built an HES timing light from instructions someone posted.  It involves an LED, several alligator clips and a 9V battery.  Clips are attached to correct leads in the HES plug.  Rotate the HES until LED light goes out.  You can google "oilhead hes sensor light" and look for a PDF instructions if interested.

 

In the end, new HES position was same as witness marks from the HES that was removed.

thanks for that, I saw the instructions for that light kit, it seemed a little excessive, I'll go the easy way

[steveg]

6 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

Evening Steveg

 

You can use either, but a timing light works good as you can check it dynamically.

 

There are timing marks on the clutch/flywheel assembly with a timing hole on the R/H side rear of the engine (rubber plug sealing the timing hole)   

"OT"= (top dead center), -- Engine cranks & starts at this timing,

"Z" =  (full advance) -- A far as the Motronic can advance the spark at high RPM's,

"S" = (the 6 degrees advanced).  -- once engine is running the Motronic adds the 6°, 

 

 With a warm  engine & using a timing light (on either spark plug wire),

 

 looking through the timing hole & using a timing light the light should flash as the  "OT"= (top dead center) is centered in the timing hole while cranking (you can check this if you unplug the fuel injectors, or remove the fuel pump relay so it won't squirt any fuel in preventing the engine from starting.

 

With the engine running  at (1000 RPM or less), the timing advance should  be very close to the "S" mark.

 

When revving the engine until the spark won't advance any higher you should see the  "Z" =  (full advance) centered in the timing hole. 

 

If you would rather use a voltmeter let me know, that only checks the static timing same a home built timing box. 

thany you , i will use the put in the same position method then use the timing light