Matt27904 Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Hello all! i recently acquired a 2003 R1150R with 23K miles on the clock. It had been sitting for four years with the last service having been completed in 2011. It was quite dirty with surface rust beginning to form on various parts. I don’t consider myself much of a mechanic but since I got this bike for the low price of “free” I though I’d give it a whirl. so far I’ve changed out the fluids, installed a new battery, fixed some wiring, and done a lot of cleaning. After changing the fluids and installing the battery it started right up! Sounds like it needs a valve adjustment though. Before I take it out on the road I need to replace the fork seals, bleed and replace brake fluid, and get new tires. Any suggestions on other items I should address are greatly appreciated. Matt Link to comment
RogerC60 Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 If it still has the original rubber brake hoses you should replace them right away. Braided stainless steel is best. Upgrade the left side cam chain tensioner. I'm sure others will have more suggestions. Link to comment
Matt27904 Posted May 14, 2020 Author Share Posted May 14, 2020 Thanks Roger! I watched an installation video of the chain tensioner.. looks pretty straight forward. I have braided SS for the front and rubber for the rear. I appears that they're all original. I'll likely change them out.. there's only one thing worse than a bike not starting.. a bike not stopping. Is there anywhere to source new bolts? Almost all of mine are either corroded or starting to rust. The bike is in AZ now so rust shouldn't be an issue going forward. Matt Link to comment
Joe Coastie Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 Beemer boneyard will be your new best friend. www.beemerboneyard.com Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 1 hour ago, Matt27904 said: Is there anywhere to source new bolts? Almost all of mine are either corroded or starting to rust. The bike is in AZ now so rust shouldn't be an issue going forward. Afternoon Matt New bolts can be bought from BMW dealer but super expensive & you have to order separately (not recommended). If you go to E-Bay then search for-- BMW 1150 bolts -- you will find about everything from new stainless steel bolts, to pretty decent original BMW bolts from a clean parts bike, to junk. If you go the E-Bay route then go with a seller that has a stellar (or very good) rating, ask LOTS of questions on quality & corrosion, & if not happy with the pictures posted on E-Bay then ask for more specific (close up) pictures be sent to you (a good upstanding seller will usually send more detailed pictures upon request) -- Just get assurances that the bolts are what you are looking for then if a problem E-Bay buyer protection will take care of you. Link to comment
Miguel! Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 I have purchased some parts from Steelecycle who sell parts on eBay. They salvage bikes and part them out on eBay. I spoke with the salvage guy there. Nice fellow. They are in Englewood Colorado. He says they offer bundles of screws and bolts from bikes. You might contact them and see if they have what you need. I don't recall what I bought from them but the price was quite acceptable and the part as I recall was like new with road grime. I just don't remember what it was but remember being satisfied. Best Miguel Link to comment
Matt27904 Posted May 15, 2020 Author Share Posted May 15, 2020 Thanks for the suggestions! The tail/brake light is cracked so I bought another one that looks to be in great shape on eBay. I went by the dealer and bought some fork oil to change out when I attempt the fork seals this weekend. I dropped the seat off at an upholstery shop to have it refurbished. Next on the list are the brake lines and tires. I should have it ready to ride in a few weeks. Matt Link to comment
dave_a Posted May 15, 2020 Share Posted May 15, 2020 Is the HES on this model equipped with the disappearing wiring insulation like my '99? Certainly, replace the fuel filter and related hoses, clean out the fuel tank. New fluids everywhere. Link to comment
fatbob Posted May 16, 2020 Share Posted May 16, 2020 I’d replace the clutch slave cylinder!! Ask me how I know!! Link to comment
Matt27904 Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share Posted May 17, 2020 On 5/15/2020 at 6:05 AM, dave_a said: Is the HES on this model equipped with the disappearing wiring insulation like my '99? Certainly, replace the fuel filter and related hoses, clean out the fuel tank. New fluids everywhere. fuel filter, new fuel lines with the quick disconnect are on the list. is this the disappearing wire insulation you’re referring to? Link to comment
Matt27904 Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share Posted May 17, 2020 So, I just finished changing out the fork oil and seals..... The steel ring was rusted.. I put it and all the other rusted bolts in CLR for a few minutes then hit it with some high grit sand paper. Wasn't too bad.. other than the axel bolt was rusted to the axel. After spraying some anti seize, waiting, heat, and a little muscle it came loose. Had I realized the axel is hollow I would have sprayed some of the anti seize from the back end. Couple of questions with that... the interior of the axel has some surface rust. Is that a big deal for the short term? Also, in order to prevent future seizing, is is acceptable to put some anti seize grease on the bolt? I'm going to address that wiring today as well. Is the cloth anti-friction tape acceptable? Living in AZ, I don't anticipate ever riding in the rain, and if I do, things dry up pretty quickly. Thanks! Matt Link to comment
Matt27904 Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 Progress report.. I got a new helmet, Shoei GT Air II Seat came back from the upholstery shop.. looks great, they even matched the original "carbon" vinyl cover. I bled the brakes but still need to do the clutch.. I think I found where it bleeds from (picture), I'm just not 100% sure on the procedure. Do I just let it drain as I make sure the reservoir stays full? I also ordered the fuel line quick disconnects. I got the 1/4 ones.. they appear to be the correct size. Can anyone confirm that? Thanks! Matt Link to comment
szurszewski Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 Seat looks good That is your clutch bleeder. If it's zip tied to the frame, you can remove the tie and let that hang while you are working. Here's a walkthrough from way back: If you were to ask around, you would also find some who have had good luck removing the grub screw, using a tool (with a rounded end! - like a ball type allen wrench) to hold the check ball open, and letting fluid drain while keeping the reservoir topped up. Link to comment
Matt27904 Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 Thanks szurszewski! I'm on a tool buying spree so I'll go find find some of the allen wrenches you speak of. Link to comment
szurszewski Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 3 minutes ago, Matt27904 said: Thanks szurszewski! I'm on a tool buying spree so I'll go find find some of the allen wrenches you speak of. I’m never one to discourage the acquisition of tools, but anything that won’t scratch the ball in the valve/fitting will work. I just happen to use a ball end allen because there’s usually one at hand from removing body panel screws to get to the bleeder. Link to comment
waynerd Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 Regarding the disconnects, most folks replace, and upgrade, with metal ones like these: Metal fuel line disconnects from Beemer Boneyard Probably more spendy than the ones you got, but eliminates the common cracking failure that most experience with the plastic ones. Also, you mentioned 1/4". I believe you will need ones that will connect to 5/16" (8mm) hose. Link to comment
Matt27904 Posted May 29, 2020 Author Share Posted May 29, 2020 Thanks for the link Wayne. I had seen some (sold out) on Beemer Boneyard but not these specific ones.. My new tires should be in next week, then I'll be all set! Matt Link to comment
Matt27904 Posted June 2, 2020 Author Share Posted June 2, 2020 All done! for now... Thanks for all the tips! 1 Link to comment
Matt27904 Posted June 21, 2020 Author Share Posted June 21, 2020 Hello all, I finally got everything done and have been able to take the bike out for a few rides. Work done since I acquired it: LOTS of cleaning... all fluids changed air filter new fork oil and seals newer front axle (old one was rusted out on the inside) bled brakes and clutch rebuilt front calipers new brake pads new tires (Metzler Roadtec 01) new bulbs new smoked turn signal lenses (old lenses were broken and glued on) new brake light lens reupholstered seat new battery make shift exhaust tip.. Things I still want to do: I want to get a taller wind screen, new slimmer tank bag, and a hard top case. Y-pipe and slip on. Does anyone know if there is a company that makes a pipe that routes the exhaust under the seat? Seems like there is plenty of room. Thank you for all your suggestions and tips! Matt 1 Link to comment
Imgnr Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 Nice! So jealous. Bought one like yours that’s been sitting but just found out it needs a new engine. Link to comment
Matt27904 Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 6 hours ago, Imgnr said: Nice! So jealous. Bought one like yours that’s been sitting but just found out it needs a new engine. Oh that sucks! I hope you didn't pay too much for it. I'm enjoying being back on a bike. My last motorcycle was a Ducati 996 and before that I had a Monster 750. I really miss that Ducati exhaust note. The R1150 just doesn't compare. 1 Link to comment
christianf Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Great job, enjoy the bike on these empty roads Link to comment
Dave P Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 Matt- you have a real beauty there! Thanks for the pics. Does it have side cases? Dave Link to comment
Matt27904 Posted June 28, 2020 Author Share Posted June 28, 2020 Thanks! It does have some cosmetic flaws. like the front fender has some pealing pain and some surface rust spots on the subframe. Otherwise it looks 100x's better than it did when I brought it home. I don't have the side cases. I have the tank bag and soft top case that came with it. I'd like a hard top case to carry stuff, or use it for small grocery runs. It is a bit hot here right now to be doing much riding. I get it out about one a week for short rides to keep the fluids moving around. September is when the temps start to drop. Link to comment
Centurion2058 Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 I just joined the BMW Sports Touring site and saw your location was nearby. I am in Mesa riding a 2010 K1300GT. I have it modestly torn down to FINALLY fix the K13's hot start issue with the BMW Auxiliary starter cable set (i.e, the correctly sized cables that BMW engineers tried to pinch pfennigs on, but not a warranty failure.) I already tried and fried an Odyssey PC680MJ battery (replaced under warranty.) Disassembly brought the usual worn parts to the forefront to replace, so I am deadheaded waiting on new rubbers for the gas tank mounting from MAX BMW. Already replaced my (broken) plastic quick disconnect with a chromed brass affair (BeemerBoneyard.) I expect it should be back together by the weekend. You appear to have done splendid work restoring the R1150. Big congrats. Link to comment
Matt27904 Posted July 19, 2020 Author Share Posted July 19, 2020 Thanks Centurion! Luckily the work wasn't too involved. I was able to bumble my way through it.. lots of YouTube videos and plenty of spare time due to "reduced" work schedules.. I still have a few things to tidy up but I'll wait till it starts to cool down some. I live really close to Moto Ghost, where I took it for new rubber. They are great people, if I need anything fixed above my abilities I'll be taking it there. Link to comment
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