My R1100RT died

[j1016]

Hi

 

I was out enjoying my R1100RT (2000) this morning and suddenly it died when I was going about 50 km/hr (30 mph). It was as if I had hit the kill button.

 

The bike won't start and there is no apparent firing. The battery was reasonably well charged before this happened although it's starting to get run-down now. One interesting thing I noted was that the clock reset when the engine died and several times after when I tried to start it.

 

I've only had the bike a week and so I was wondering if this is a common problem with a common fix. I have a 30-day warrantee from the BMW dealer and I will call them tomorrow, but it would be helpful to me to know for the future.

 

Thanks,

 

JohnR

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Clock reset is a symptom of low voltage.

 

Probably needs a battery and it might be a good idea to inspect the poly-V belt that drives the alternator.

 

Reasonably well charged means what, exactly? Unless you performed a diagnostic on the battery right before riding, you really have no idea about the state of charge except that it was able to turn over the engine. A battery with a weak cell will take a small, short term charge able to do that, but, couple that with an alternator that is not putting out and you got problems.

[j1016]

THanks for the quick response and great information. If it is a low or poor battery, then I would expect that I could start the bike with a battery boost? This would rule out the battery if the bike doesn't start, I would think. (Ideally, I'd like to get the bike home if possible). To boost the battery, it looks I have to remove left fairing. Are there instructions some where for doing this?

[beemerman2k]

Allow me to add that you not only got a quick response, but you got a quick response from among the best technical guys on this forum. Given Ed's track record for nailing these problems accurately while given little to go on, I'd go buy a new battery and alternator cable now and save yourself some time and guesswork. Odds are he ID'd your problem quite accurately!

[ShovelStrokeEd]

(blushing), Thanks, James.

 

There are a couple of other things you may want to look at that came to me.

 

Be sure your neutral light comes on and even so, put the bike up on the center stand and retract the side stand then try to start while pulling in the clutch. One of the interlocks may have gone Tango Uniform.

 

There are instructions for fairing removal and just about anything else floating around here. Try the search feature and use the term "+fairing +removal". Set the time period for older than one week and you should be good to go. There are, if I remember right, it's been a while since I had an RT, 11 screws that have to come off and some of them are invisible. They are alos of differing lengths so take a piece of thin cardboard with you and poke the screws through in the pattern you removed them.

 

Tricksy folks just remove the seat and the one bolt securing the rear of the tank, GENTLY lift up the rear of the tank and poke a large screwdriver in there to contact the positive battery terminal. Connect the positive jumper to the screwdriver shaft and the negative to something like your left footpeg plate and you should be good to go. A caution about jumping if you plan on using a car, don't have the car running and beware of shorting things out. Be sure of your screwdriver and maintain some positive pressure on it. Have somebody else connect the ground and operate the starter. You don't want to practice welding, just start the bike.

[DEF]

Allow me to add that you not only got a quick response, but you got a quick response from among the best technical guys on this forum. Given Ed's track record for nailing these problems accurately while given little to go on, I'd go buy a new battery and alternator cable now and save yourself some time and guesswork. Odds are he ID'd your problem quite accurately!

 

Beemerman, I agree, Ed is likely correct. Don't you think a check of the battery might be in order? Remove, fill with DI water to the mark and charge for a couple hours at 1-2 A/hr rate? It can't hurt and may keep you going until you can do a more thorouh diagnosis...just my humble opinion.

[leikam]

I would definitely check the alternator belt as well. If the battery wasn't about to give up the ghost, it's entirely possible that your alternator is no longer charging it and that's why you lost power. Putting in a new battery or charging the old one in this situation won't solve the underlying issue.

[j1016]

Thanks for all the great suggestions. I boosted the battery using the 'screwdriver extension technique for the positive terminal' (worked great - I put duct tape around the screwdriver except for the tip and where the clamp for the other battery attatched!). Unfortunately I couldn't get the bike to start. I made sure that the bike was on the main stand with the kick stand up and the clutch in as suggested. The motor turned over much more quickly than without the boost, so I know that my 'boosting technique' was OK. (Given where I live, I’ve had to boost a lot of vehicles!)

 

I also checked all fuses and everything looked OK there too. I tried to check the battery fluid level, but couldn't see any liquid behind the white plastic. Unfortunately, I've run out of time to work on the bike today as I have to get ready for a business trip. I'll ring the BMW dealer in the morning. Your excellent suggestions will help me when I talk to them!

 

Thanks a lot. I appreciate the help.

 

JohnR

[ShovelStrokeEd]

In all these starting attempts, did you hear the fuel pump running at all? Should have come on each time you switched on the key and yet again while cranking.

 

If it comes on with the key and doesn't start up again while cranking, your HES sensor has gone bad. If it doesn't come on with the key, it is the fuel pump that has passed on to greener pastures, or, if you are lucky, the plug under the tank has come undone.

 

Keep us posted and sorry you didn't get going. Trouble shooting at a distance is so difficult.

 

One more thought is a failed ignition coil but they ususally show some symptoms before they give up the ghost altoghther.

[DEF]

Thanks for all the great suggestions. I boosted the battery using the 'screwdriver extension technique for the positive terminal' (worked great - I put duct tape around the screwdriver except for the tip and where the clamp for the other battery attatched!). Unfortunately I couldn't get the bike to start. I made sure that the bike was on the main stand with the kick stand up and the clutch in as suggested. The motor turned over much more quickly than without the boost, so I know that my 'boosting technique' was OK. (Given where I live, I’ve had to boost a lot of vehicles!)

 

I also checked all fuses and everything looked OK there too. I tried to check the battery fluid level, but couldn't see any liquid behind the white plastic. Unfortunately, I've run out of time to work on the bike today as I have to get ready for a business trip. I'll ring the BMW dealer in the morning. Your excellent suggestions will help me when I talk to them!

 

Thanks a lot. I appreciate the help.

 

JohnR

 

Uuuh-ooh...now, it is on to the second tier of troubleshooting.

 

Check spark, inspect the coil and connector that provides primary voltage to the coil.

 

Also, possible Hall sensor failure.

 

Is the fuel pump whining when you switch on the engine kill switch?

 

Ed, any thoughts?

[smiller]

I would think a weak battery would cause at least some sputtering or poor running before the engine shut down... the 'off like a switch' symptom sure sounds like a possible HES problem. The clock resetting would indicate a voltage problem but that might just be a red herring in this particular case. If the fuel pump runs for a few seconds when you turn on the key (make sure kill switch is on and sidestand is up) and the bike cranks easily but won't run then I would start suspecting the HES, especially if the bike has high miles. Also check to see if the tach indicator is behaving erratically... that symptom isn't always present, but if it is it's a sure sign of an HES problem.

[j1016]

The fuel pump comes on when I turn the ignition switch on, but I am unsure if it was whining when I turned the engine over. I suspect it's an ignition issue, but I'm afraid I've run out of time to pick away at it so I won't be able to check spark, etc. I'll let you know, in a week or so, how it turns out. Again, thanks the great support and ideas.

 

JohnR

[Unity]

You guys are cool. That was good, useful advice. I learned from it.

 

JohnR, that was a lousy intro to your new BMW -- they normally don't give up on you like that. Tell the dealer that the whole BMWST forum is sure he'll do right by you.

 

--John