How drive a camhead for clutch longevity?

[JonnyQuest]

Hey all!  
Just bought my first ever boxer, 2012 RT.  Last BMW I’ve owned was a 2015 S1000RR.  Other than that I’ve owned over a 150 motorcycles in my 38 years of riding/racing.  I’m 49 btw.

My main concern is making sure this clutch lasts.  It’s got 24,500 miles, dealer maintained since day one.  
My question is what’s the best way to use this clutch to ensure longevity?  All brand/type bikes require a certain clutching technique. What’s the technique for this RT?  I like to do a lot of slow speed technique riding and rely heavily on clutch feathering and pull.  
thank you for any insight and/or advise!

 

Jon

 

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, JonnyQuest said:

Hey all!  
Just bought my first ever boxer, 2012 RT.  Last BMW I’ve owned was a 2015 S1000RR.  Other than that I’ve owned over a 150 motorcycles in my 38 years of riding/racing.  I’m 49 btw.

My main concern is making sure this clutch lasts.  It’s got 24,500 miles, dealer maintained since day one.  
My question is what’s the best way to use this clutch to ensure longevity?  All brand/type bikes require a certain clutching technique. What’s the technique for this RT?  I like to do a lot of slow speed technique riding and rely heavily on clutch feathering and pull.  
thank you for any insight and/or advise!

 

Jon

 

 

Afternoon Jon

 

It seems that different  BMW dry clutch riders have different techniques for clutch durability.

 

My personal approach is to never slip the  BMW dry clutch for more than a nano second.  If I have  to modulate the clutch in the friction zone for more than just ride-away, or  for low speed control, I use a slip/grip/slip/grip/slip/grip type action where the clutch is either almost fully released or  mostly engaged (move the clutch lever momentarily out then right back in to quickly engage then right back in for almost full clutch release) never a continuous slipping in the gray zone).

 

Once you get the idea & get the hang of it then it is very easy to keep the bike moving at below full engagement but not by continuous slipping, more like little quick momentary clutch engagements to keep the bike moving.  

 

I ride a lot of deep sand, thick mud, & tight single tracks on my 1200GS with also getting it really stuck from time to time & haven't, as of yet, burnt up a dry clutch. (I just don't slip the darn thing for more than a second, EVER).  

 

I ride with other GS riders that do slip their dry  clutch & I can usually smell it from 200 feet away so if you abuse your dry clutch it will usually tell you that with that burnt clutch smell. So if you ever smell that burnt clutch smell then quickly quit doing whatever you are presently doing with your clutch.

 

 

 

 

 

[JonnyQuest]

17 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Afternoon Jon

 

It seems that different  BMW dry clutch riders have different techniques for clutch durability.

 

My personal approach is to never slip the  BMW dry clutch for more than a nano second.  If I have  to modulate the clutch in the friction zone for more than just ride-away, or  for low speed control, I use a slip/grip/slip/grip/slip/grip type action where the clutch is either almost fully released or  mostly engaged (move the clutch lever momentarily out then right back in to quickly engage then right back in for almost full clutch release) never a continuous slipping in the gray zone).

 

Once you get the idea & get the hang of it then it is very easy to keep the bike moving at below full engagement but not by continuous slipping, more like little quick momentary clutch engagements to keep the bike moving.  

 

I ride a lot of deep sand, thick mud, & tight single tracks on my 1200GS with also getting it really stuck from time to time & haven't, as of yet, burnt up a dry clutch. (I just don't slip the darn thing for more than a second, EVER).  

 

I ride with other GS riders that do slip their dry  clutch & I can usually smell it from 200 feet away so if you abuse your dry clutch it will usually tell you that with that burnt clutch smell. So if you ever smell that burnt clutch smell then quickly quit doing whatever you are presently doing with your clutch.

 

 

 

 

 

THANK YOU Dirtrider!  Invaluable advice.  That gives me a good idea on how to use the clutch on this thing. I also come from motocross 2-strokes and road racing so slipping the clutch will be a habit I’ll have to break myself of.

[Pappy35]

This was my first ever BMW and while it feels a bit different than a wet clutch (which was all I EVER had) I don't ride it any differently. Unless you tend tend to drag race from one red light to another it'll last just as long as any other. Just ride it and don't worry about it. With that few miles you'll get another 100 grand before it becomes a bother.

 

One thing that is very important though is that you DO NOT let the clutch reservoir get full. On this machine, as the clutch wears the reservoir will slowly fill up. Once full, it'll cause a hydraulic lock that will present just like a worn out clutch and if you let it continue it will wear out the clutch prematurely. The idea quantity is about halfway between low and high.

[JonnyQuest]

10 minutes ago, Pappy35 said:

This was my first ever BMW and while it feels a bit different than a wet clutch (which was all I EVER had) I don't ride it any differently. Unless you tend tend to drag race from one red light to another it'll last just as long as any other. Just ride it and don't worry about it. With that few miles you'll get another 100 grand before it becomes a bother.

 

One thing that is very important though is that you DO NOT let the clutch reservoir get full. On this machine, as the clutch wears the reservoir will slowly fill up. Once full, it'll cause a hydraulic lock that will present just like a worn out clutch and if you let it continue it will wear out the clutch prematurely. The idea quantity is about halfway between low and high.

Thank you!  I just got home with the new (to me) bike, and rides very different from what I’m use to.  I just read your post and popped the reservoir, sure enough it full.  The bike was just at the dealership for it’s 24k mike service.  I’m going to call them Tuesday when they open.  In the meantime is it ok for me to stick a syringe inside to pull out some clutch fluid to get it to half way?

[Pappy35]

18 hours ago, JonnyQuest said:

Thank you!  I just got home with the new (to me) bike, and rides very different from what I’m use to.  I just read your post and popped the reservoir, sure enough it full.  The bike was just at the dealership for it’s 24k mike service.  I’m going to call them Tuesday when they open.  In the meantime is it ok for me to stick a syringe inside to pull out some clutch fluid to get it to half way?

 

Yes. I use a turkey baster (my wife doesn't know after all, what she doesn't know could kill her...or anyone that eats food cooked in my house...).

 

My last motorcycle was an '05 FJR1300. Wet vs. dry clutches feel different but that goes away in about 50 miles. I do a lot of stop and go traffic and after a bit I just don't feel it anymore. Like anything it's just something you adapt to and it becomes the new normal. The only time I notice it now is pulling away from a stop up a steep-ish slope two up. Depending on how hard you need to go you might smell a burning brake-like odor. Again, this is normal and as long as you aren't drag-racing the thing you'll be fine for probably longer than you'll have the bike.

[JonnyQuest]

23 hours ago, Pappy35 said:

 

Yes. I use a turkey baster (my wife doesn't know after all, what she doesn't know could kill her...or anyone that eats food cooked in my house...).

 

My last motorcycle was an '05 FJR1300. Wet vs. dry clutches feel different but that goes away in about 50 miles. I do a lot of stop and go traffic and after a bit I just don't feel it anymore. Like anything it's just something you adapt to and it becomes the new normal. The only time I notice it now is pulling away from a stop up a steep-ish slope two up. Depending on how hard you need to go you might smell a burning brake-like odor. Again, this is normal and as long as you aren't drag-racing the thing you'll be fine for probably longer than you'll have the bike.

Lol!

Thanks Pappy!  I’ll pickup a syringe from work (hospital).

The boxer is a very different feel from what I’m use to, feels sluggish compared to my prior bikes (Connie, S1000RR, numerous KTM’s).  I know I know, comparing horsepower bikes to a boxer isn’t a fair comparison.  Definitely didn’t help myself out by demoing a 2020 R1250RT here at Daytona before buying this 2012😣

[Rinkydink]

JonnyQuest

You will find the boxer motor loves to rev. Years ago I let my brother (big HD fan) ride my 1150RT. He was short shifting it like a Harley. I told him to get on the freeway and downshift one gear to get the revs up to make the boxer really sing. He never short shifted it again. Off the line boxers aren’t that quick but roll on (when revved high) is pretty impressive. Enjoy. 

[Pappy35]

3 hours ago, JonnyQuest said:

Lol!

Thanks Pappy!  I’ll pickup a syringe from work (hospital).

The boxer is a very different feel from what I’m use to, feels sluggish compared to my prior bikes (Connie, S1000RR, numerous KTM’s).  I know I know, comparing horsepower bikes to a boxer isn’t a fair comparison.  Definitely didn’t help myself out by demoing a 2020 R1250RT here at Daytona before buying this 2012😣

 

Coming off an FJR (which I sold 10 years ago mind you), the raw power doesn't feel the same. Having said that, the bike still performs excellently. BMW's Boxer is just different than those inline four liter bikes. It also seems to be geared much taller than my recollection of my previous bikes so that's part of the learning curve too. The key word for comparing the RT to other similar bikes is different not worse.

 

In everyday use I seldom find that I need to downshift to get good acceleration though I agree that the engine prefers to spin to make power. The boxer also get exceptional gas mileage and can go upwards of 300 miles per tank and keep the revs above 4k and it will try to pull your arms out of your sockets. OK. Not to the extent that the S100RR will (not that that's a fair comparison ) but it's got PLENTY of power for 97% of any driving situation you'll likely face. 

 

...that R1250RT is in a whole different league though  ...bad idea test-driving one.

[JonnyQuest]

21 hours ago, Pappy35 said:

...that R1250RT is in a whole different league though  ...bad idea test-driving one.

im going back down to Daytona tomorrow & Friday to subject myself & endure more pain & punishment aboard the 1250’s 🥺