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break in


X_BamaCop

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I know this has been discussed before but I would like some feedback on motomans break in vs BMW recomendations. I also am curious if the on board computer will tell on me if I chose to use his method. Also, if I chose to use the method what type break in oil and where do I get it. I am pretty sure I will do it and what is said here will probably make or break the idea. My riding buddy picked up his 06 FJR and is getting what he needs to change his oil and finish the job after several red line runs and the bike is now parked with 50 miles until he finishes. Any suggestions specific to his bike would also be apreciated. I am of coarse still waiting like most for the arrival of my new GT.

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I believe that the BMW's come with oil meant to be changed after break in.

It's your bike, do what makes you happy.

Personally I don't treat a new long term motorcycle like a racing machine that's going to be torn down frequently and rebuilt.

Vary the RPM's, change the oil, repeat.

Enjoy the new GT when it gets here.

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tallman has it. Dick has an excellent write up here on break in written years ago for the R1100RT, but it still makes sense to me even with the new motors and new materials (regardless of what others say) - and yes, I'm also waiting for my GT to arrive !!

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The new GT manual says;

 

Keep revs below 7,000rpm for the initial period.

Vary revs throughout the gear box.

At or about 600 miles (1st service) take to dealership. They then do a 60-90 mins service which involves a "lot of checking" and an oil (mineral) change.

 

After this service you can steadily increase revs throughout the range.

 

Mine goes in next Friday for this free service and I should have about 750 miles on the clock by then.

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ShovelStrokeEd

I have used a regimen similar to what Dick recommends on every bike I have ever owned. It is not about race vs street or long term usage vs frequent rebuilds.

 

The goal of wear-in is to bring the mechanical parts of the engine into final clearance specs with each other, the critical components being the surfaces of the cam and cam followers and tappet adjuster to valve stem as that is where the highest pressures may be found. Once those are done, and this is why the early portion of the process is RPM limited and fairly gentle, one sets about essentially the same thing but this time with the goal of improving/perfecting ring seal. It is that which is better done with larger throttle openings and higher RPM. The key is varying the load on the motor and establishing a zone on the cylinder walls where the rings will wear to best conform to the surface. This takes a very long time if you are gentle, it really needs large loads on the motor with gradually increasing duration and intensity.

 

BTW, I switched, on my last 3 new bikes, to synthetic immediatly after the 600 mile inspection. None have ever burned any significant amount of oil and, with an aggregate of about 160K miles on them, none have ever shown any appreciable loss of compression or sufferd any form of motor failure.

 

Ultimatly, the decision is yours, but that has been my experience based on over 45 years of bike ownership and a good deal of engine building in both cars and bikes.

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I followed the manual for break-in to the letter...never has used a drop of oil and runs like a raped ape!! I'm old school so I don't believe in running them like you stole it!!

 

Knobby

'03 KRS

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ShovelStrokeEd

Never said that.

 

Running one in according to a careful plan with sound practice behind it has nothing to do with "ride it like you stole it".

 

BMW's recommendation, IMHO, is too conservative and can lead to prolonged wear in. A more agressive plan, and plan it is, yields the same results in a much shorter time frame, is all.

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Hi Bama, My 2 cents worth: I have an older K1100RS. It's got just over 100K on the tach. I babbied it for the first couple of miles, did the service as suggested by BMW. Now, 10 years later, I (only) have 2-3% loss on any of the cylinders as per my last "leak-down-test". Factory specs are 5%. I still believe easy at first because it has paid off for me!

Dan

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tallman has it. Dick has an excellent write up here on break in written years ago for the R1100RT, but it still makes sense to me even with the new motors and new materials (regardless of what others say) - and yes, I'm also waiting for my GT to arrive !!

Remember, we're talking about Street Bikes, here - Generally Sport Tourers with redlines of ~10,000rpm or less.

 

 

I'll share that I've modified my Wear-In policies since that Archived BMWSportTouring.com article was written.

 

I still think that's a good way to wear in a Boxer as written. However, because of exerience with several R1150's and now a friend's R1200, I believe the durations stated can be shortend by 30%-40% - IF A "SEVERE CYCLE" IS USED EARLY ON.

 

The Severe Cycle I use is at ~600 miles, just BEFORE the First Service I run the bike from 3000 - 4000 rpm at 3/4 throttle and back with fully closed throttle, three times. I repeat from 3000 - 5000 and back, then 6000, 7000, 8000. I repeat the 3000-8000-3000 five more times, and then get the oil changed immediately.

 

For LIQUID-COOLED engines, I do the same thing: The Continuous Run-In process up to 600mi; The Severe Cycle listed above. Then, I run the program in the listed article, but 1/2 the distances.

 

AS WELL: On my FJR, I ALSO did a "mini-severe-cycle" at 200mi before I changed oil. It was 2 up-down-up-down from 3000 to 4000, and so on to 7000 rpm. ONLY ONCE. By 2000 miles, my FJR ran very closely to as well as at 12,000 miles.

 

AND, I don't ever worry about running to red line after 1200 miles. I used the "mileage based limit" as a guideline in my up-down-up-down riding. But, if I want more power, I USE IT.

 

Bore checks, and cam/follower/valve checks all show GREAT seating, and no wear or galling at 10,000 miles for either the Boxers or Liquid-Cooled motorcycles.

 

Today in a new bike, I change oil at 200, 600, 2000, 6000 and each 6000 miles thereafter. I put in synthetic Shell Rotela-T at either 600 or 1200 miles. I use the 5W-40, C4 (Commercial) Shell for many positive reasons, but wouldn't mind using Mobil 1, both of which are available at any Wal-Mart.

 

 

Best wishes.

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ShovelStrokeEd

I'm in complete agreement with Dick on this one, imagine that. grin.gif

 

The severe cycle he speaks of is really not severe at all. It is what any engine builder worth his salt will recommend.

 

A water cooled bike will better tolerate a more agressive technique as engine, and particularly cylinder wall temperatures are much better controlled. Remember, boxer engines only cool the cylinder head with oil, not the cylinder walls. Keep in mind you are heat cycling the motor as well as load cycling and a careful eye on the temp gauge and periodic rests are good things.

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