PhotoBiker Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 I have been reading the "Oilhead Valve Adjustments for Dummies" (OVADv2.2.pdf) for the past year (maybe 2??). I kept saying "Yeah, I'm going to do this". I never did... Until today. I had the tupperware off for my battery replacement, then did some work on the Heated Handgrips (easier to trace/run the wires with the tupperware off). I found out I had to wait a day for the replacement Handgrip and had some free time today so... I gave it a try. The adjustment portion seemed to go much easier than I had thought. They were a bit out of adjustment (the right hand side Exhaust were wayyy tight) and they seemed to adjust much easier than the document lead me to believe. I didn't realize that I needed to take some more parts off the bike (wasn't in the document). It wasn't hard to do I had two sets of feeler gauges, however, I found it easier to use only one set. There was something very 'zen' about sitting on the garage floor, covered in oil and surrounded by parts & tools. Not a child in sight (or earshot). I think the entire process took only 2 hours, perhaps a little less. I re-assembled the Throttle so I could start up the bike (to make sure it still works). I can't tell from it idling if there is a difference. Either I will detect a difference or I will perceive it... Link to comment
Wooster Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Congratulations SkyHawke. First valve adjust is an accomplishment; w/o stripping alloy threads, you get extra credit ! Well done. I don't notice any change after valve adjustment as usually, they were close to begin with (and another sentence ends w/preposition). Wooster sleeping bull is bulldozer Oh yah, what's up w/reassemble throttle ? Link to comment
PhotoBiker Posted April 26, 2006 Author Share Posted April 26, 2006 Oh yah, what's up w/reassemble throttle ? That is another thread. The heating coil on the throttle side died a few years back. I also had a cracked housing and needed to remove the handgrip to replace the housing, in the process I made the non-working handgrip even more non-working... New one on the way (tomorrow). Link to comment
DEF Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 I have been reading the "Oilhead Valve Adjustments for Dummies" (OVADv2.2.pdf) for the past year (maybe 2??). I kept saying "Yeah, I'm going to do this". I never did... Until today. I had the tupperware off for my battery replacement, then did some work on the Heated Handgrips (easier to trace/run the wires with the tupperware off). I found out I had to wait a day for the replacement Handgrip and had some free time today so... I gave it a try. The adjustment portion seemed to go much easier than I had thought. They were a bit out of adjustment (the right hand side Exhaust were wayyy tight) and they seemed to adjust much easier than the document lead me to believe. I didn't realize that I needed to take some more parts off the bike (wasn't in the document). It wasn't hard to do I had two sets of feeler gauges, however, I found it easier to use only one set. There was something very 'zen' about sitting on the garage floor, covered in oil and surrounded by parts & tools. Not a child in sight (or earshot). I think the entire process took only 2 hours, perhaps a little less. I re-assembled the Throttle so I could start up the bike (to make sure it still works). I can't tell from it idling if there is a difference. Either I will detect a difference or I will perceive it... Valve lash adjustment has considerable impact on boxer performance. However, I recommend you use two feeler gauges. This can make for very quiet valve operation. The important thing to remember about valve lash is equal lash for each valve pair. The actual clearance accuracy is not as important as each valve pair having identical clearance. Also make sure you perform this maintenance on a stone cold engine. You will be amazed at the performance change once you ride the bike next. Nice work, but where did all the oil you refer to come from? Now, it is time for the TB sync......get busy. Link to comment
PhotoBiker Posted April 26, 2006 Author Share Posted April 26, 2006 I was able to get each set as near to identical as I could 'feel'. For me one set was enough, the upper one got in the way of the lower when I was moving it and vice-versa. I may have exaggerated a bit on the oil. . . The TB Synch is a good idea (and cheap too). I used to have a carb synch tool for an old Honda. I think I left it in the garage of our first house (wonder if I could go back and get it after all these years?) Link to comment
Haynes Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 There are few tasks that you can do on an oilhead that give the same satisfaction as a valve adjustment and throttle sync. Congratulations on successfully completing your first. Link to comment
Rottweiler Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Congrats on the valve job, it does feel good to do it yourself. For next time though, you should insert all 4 feeler guages at the same time, it does make a difference. To make it easier tie a string to each set and put an alligator clip on the string for each set too. You can then clip each pair to a cooling fin and if a guage falls out, it won't go far. For the TB sync do a search on this great site to find instuctions on making your own manometer. It'll cost you less than $5 in hose and they work great! I just completed 90% of my yearly maintanance this past weekend (valves, TB sync, brake bleed, etc)and this weekend I'll be putting on 2 new tires. It's a lot of work, but I know I can do it as good or better than the dealer at a fraction of thier cost. Link to comment
PhotoBiker Posted April 27, 2006 Author Share Posted April 27, 2006 I put the new throttle handgrip in this evening and built my homemade throttle synch tool from some Home Depot parts. I think the $4 Throttle Synch tool is up to about $6 or so now. It is still a steal. I used the old oil from the oil change I just did on the RT (it hadn't made it to the dump yet). Should do the synch tomorrow. Got tranny, final drive, & brake bleeds then I can button it up and ride this thing again. . . Link to comment
Keith S Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 For the TB sync do a search on this great site to find instuctions on making your own manometer. It'll cost you less than $5 in hose and they work great! I just completed 90% of my yearly maintanance this past weekend (valves, TB sync, brake bleed, etc)and this weekend I'll be putting on 2 new tires. It's a lot of work, but I know I can do it as good or better than the dealer at a fraction of thier cost. I tried to find the instructions to make your own manometer, but no luck. Can somebody point me in the right direction? Thanks Link to comment
Boffin Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 For the TB sync do a search on this great site to find instuctions on making your own manometer. It'll cost you less than $5 in hose and they work great! I just completed 90% of my yearly maintanance this past weekend (valves, TB sync, brake bleed, etc)and this weekend I'll be putting on 2 new tires. It's a lot of work, but I know I can do it as good or better than the dealer at a fraction of thier cost. I tried to find the instructions to make your own manometer, but no luck. Can somebody point me in the right direction? Thanks RightSpin has detailed instructions on his web site. Mine is simpler, the tubing held to the board with cable ties through a single hole behind the pipe. I did not use a former for the loop. I used Castrol 2TT two stroke oil as the fill, with the pipe constricted at the mid lowest point to damp the system. Andy Link to comment
ncsonderman Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Congrats! I also followed the Valvehead Mxs for Dummies last night. Unfortunatly I looked in the wrong manual for the cylinder cover torque value despite boldface warnings of overtorque. Throttlebody synch to be done this coming week. Link to comment
PhotoBiker Posted April 28, 2006 Author Share Posted April 28, 2006 Throttles have now been "Sunk". I believe I will need to do them again after a few tanks of gas. I also replaced the Transmission & Final Drive oil. I used the waterfall method with a piece of aluminum foil to drain the tranny. I've put the tupperware back on, but not completely fastened. Does anyone have a link to an "Idiots Guide to getting the right tupperware fasteners in the right holes?" Link to comment
bmweerman Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 Kudos Bro!!! Feels good don't it!? Link to comment
PhotoBiker Posted April 28, 2006 Author Share Posted April 28, 2006 It sure does. I found the fastener diagram so I should have it buttoned up tonight. Then time for some serious washing/cleaning tomorrow. I should start posting in the "Riding" forum Saturday/Sunday (weather permitting, although I do have a 'stich) Link to comment
Kenny2 Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 Screws, the long ones go in the foot plates and behind the mirrors. all shorts one in the tank, don't over torque!! Be a doctor and have patience. Link to comment
Keith S Posted May 6, 2006 Share Posted May 6, 2006 sorry for the delay in saying thanks.....go called out of town. I ended up using a left over piece of 2' x 8' plywood. Dang thing ended up around 7 feet high and worked great. Windshield washer antifreeze as the liquid...no need to worry about freezing in the garage while stored. It can get a tad chilly in Calgary in the winter. Kye Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.