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R11RS - top fork bridge removal ?


TREE

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My ignition switch has an intermittent so it's time to pull it......

 

here's the photo:

 

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/3276/forkbridge1gb.jpg

 

I am going to heat up the loctite on the centre bolt in the photo.

Photo shows the allan bolt and the 21mm locknut.

My CD repair and the Haynes manual do not explain very well which of these 2 I should loosen first.

They seem to indicate hold the nut and loosen the allan first.

 

What say you all ??

Thanks for your wisdom.

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russell_bynum

I've never pulled the upper triple-clamp on a BMW, but on my Honda, I just removed the large nut, loosened the pinch bolts that hold the fork tubes in place, and it came right off. I'm not sure what's up with the allen bolt. On the Honda, the large nut just threaded onto a hollow threaded tube, not an allen bolt like in your picture. <speculation> Maybe you're supposed to use an allan key in that bolt to keep it from turning while you loosen the large nut?</speculation>

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With trepidation, I politley disagree with Russell, though I too haven't removed top triple clamp on oilhead telever.

Airhead beemers (and most other bikes I'm familiar with) have large acorn nut in center of triple clamp (similar to triple tree, but not as green) with a thin nut underneath. Once acorn nut is loose, underneath fastener tensions steering head bearings. So, I'm assuming if allen bolt were loose, large nut tensions bearings.

I went for my Haynes yet then confronted the fact that it's in a flat rate USPS box (along with guitar tuner and other treasures) on its way to MA.

I can appreciate your dilemma, reputable references (CD and Haynes) saying one thing yet other reputable sources (like Russell) saying another. FWIW, I'd go with manual's message. Sorry can't be more certain.

 

Wooster w/o his Haynes (no wonder it's drafty)

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As Russell said, loosen the nut while keeping the allen from turning - see the method I used. The allen is the top-end of the ball joint stud, and will just spin with the nut if not held. The RS (R and K) yoke design differs from the RT/R/GS in that the top yoke pivots (ever so slightly) in tandem with the fork tubes as the front suspension is compressed.

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Very cool Ray. Hold allen while turning big nut.

Years ago I had it rite on which models' tops pivoted; so it's RSes only ?

Any idea where RTs and the rest pivot ?

 

Wondering Wooster

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mikefigielski

Hey Tree,

You can remove just the plastic "switch" part of the ignition switch without having to remove the top triple clamp. If you are having an intermitant problem with the ignition switch, the bottom part is what will need replacing. If you look closely from the side of the bike you will see a small red dot on the side of the ignition switch. If you clean the red stuff out you will see a small screw holding the switch onto the fork lock (metal portion of the ignition switch assembly). I think it is a flat blade screw driver you'll need, a small jewelwer's screw driver works. it is a bit of a pain to get at it, but much easier than removing the top triple clamp. If you do remove the clamp, you'll still want to remove just the bottom half of the assembly as described above. To remove the whole assembly from the triple clamp means drilling out the "security screws" and replacing them with normal bolts. Let me know if you end up needing a replacemment switch, I should have one here. Good luck!

Mike

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