Leaky final drive

[Rougarou]

So, I'm now getting splatter on my wheel and there is a noticeable drip-drop hanging off of the bottom of the final drive.  This weekend, I intend to take the wheel off and check if the leak is coming from the left side as there has always been the "mist" on the right side.  With that said, I've searched and see that the right side seal is an easy replacement but the left side,....just a wee bit more difficult.  The below video shows a person doing the left side with the final drive mounted (no I don't want to hear replace the bearing too, if  I get the seal out and the bearing looks fine, I'll only replace the seal).  So, anyway, my question is will a wheel puller set be sufficient to yank the flange off?  The tools the guy below has, he made,,.....I don't have that ability.

 

 

[dirtrider]

11 hours ago, Living the Dream said:

So, I'm now getting splatter on my wheel and there is a noticeable drip-drop hanging off of the bottom of the final drive.  This weekend, I intend to take the wheel off and check if the leak is coming from the left side as there has always been the "mist" on the right side.  With that said, I've searched and see that the right side seal is an easy replacement but the left side,....just a wee bit more difficult.  The below video shows a person doing the left side with the final drive mounted (no I don't want to hear replace the bearing too, if  I get the seal out and the bearing looks fine, I'll only replace the seal).  So, anyway, my question is will a wheel puller set be sufficient to yank the flange off?  The tools the guy below has, he made,,.....I don't have that ability.

 

 

 

Morning Living the Dream

 

We need more information on what year 1200 you are working with???  If your 1200 has a pre-vent final drive then it isn't a SIMPLE seal replacement as the pre-vent final drives use a pre-lubricated crown bearing (has it's own grease) with the gear oil seal on the INSIDE of the bearing   so the side cover & bearing have to be removed. On the pre-vent final drives if you see gear oil leaking on the outside then that almost always means that the leaking gear oil has washed the grease out of the bearing so a new bearing is usually required. 

 

As for a wheel puller set working, depends on how evenly it attaches to the hub & how good your homemade spool insert fits the spool ID. If the puller that you use doesn't pull evenly all the way around then it can damage the hub. Plus it will take a fair amount of heat to allow the hub to pull off without galling the splines (if it gets part way off & hangs up you then have problems). (you  can't use a slide hammer type wheel puller).

[Rougarou]

2 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

Morning Living the Dream

 

We need more information on what year 1200 you are working with???  If your 1200 has a pre-vent final drive then it isn't a SIMPLE seal replacement as the pre-vent final drives use a pre-lubricated crown bearing (has it's own grease) with the gear oil seal on the INSIDE of the bearing   so the side cover & bearing have to be removed. On the pre-vent final drives if you see gear oil leaking on the outside then that almost always means that the leaking gear oil has washed the grease out of the bearing so a new bearing is usually required. 

 

As for a wheel puller set working, depends on how evenly it attaches to the hub & how good your homemade spool insert fits the spool ID. If the puller that you use doesn't pull evenly all the way around then it can damage the hub. Plus it will take a fair amount of heat to allow the hub to pull off without galling the spines (if it gets part way off & hangs up you then have problems). (you  can't use a slide hammer type wheel puller).

 

It's a 2006 1200rt manufacture date 2/06

[dirtrider]

5 minutes ago, Living the Dream said:

 

It's a 2006 1200rt manufacture date 2/06

 

Morning Living the Dream

 

Your 2006 uses the pre-vent final drive so it is a LOT more complicated than your video shows. (seal is on inside of crown bearing). What you see in the parts book on the outside of bearing is basically just a dirt excluder/spacer.

 

You will probably need a hexhead service manual to know what you are dealing with on your 2006.

[Rougarou]

Ya, I’ve got the reprom on this, was perusing it last night. The job doesn’t look difficult at all IF I had the correct tools. 

 

Right now now I can’t tell if it’s the left or right seal bleeding.  I know the right seal has had the mist coming out for quite some time, so I may just change that first, clean it all back up, ride some more and see if the issue persists. When I draw my fingers across the bottom of the housing from right to left, there is a sheen of lube, so I’m hoping that it’s just the right side seal as I’m hoping that the lube is leaking towards gravity 

 

 

[dirtrider]

57 minutes ago, Living the Dream said:

Ya, I’ve got the reprom on this, was perusing it last night. The job doesn’t look difficult at all IF I had the correct tools. 

 

Right now now I can’t tell if it’s the left or right seal bleeding.  I know the right seal has had the mist coming out for quite some time, so I may just change that first, clean it all back up, ride some more and see if the issue persists. When I draw my fingers across the bottom of the housing from right to left, there is a sheen of lube, so I’m hoping that it’s just the right side seal as I’m hoping that the lube is leaking towards gravity 

 

 

 

 

You don't have the final drive over-full do you? The older RepRom's have the incorrect fill amount.

 

The new revised fill amount is 180mL (lowered to prevent overpressure seeping/leaking). 

 

With no external vent the internal gear oil cavity goes  to positive pressure pretty quickly as the drive heats up.

 

If the hub side is leaking then there is also a good chance that the grease has been washed out of the sealed bearing.

[Rougarou]

21 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

 

 

You don't have the final drive over-full do you? The older RepRom's have the incorrect fill amount.

 

The new revised fill amount is 180mL (lowered to prevent overpressure seeping/leaking). 

 

With no external vent the internal gear oil cavity goes  to positive pressure pretty quickly as the drive heats up.

 

If the hub side is leaking then there is also a good chance that the grease has been washed out of the sealed bearing.

 

Ya, been 180ml/6oz forever....not overfilled, its sharpied on my measuring cup

[Rougarou]

Think I’ll go ahead with changing the right side first, ride it for awhile and check back. 

[aggieengineer]

Interesting video. Did anyone else cringe at the sight of those splines getting wire-brushed right next to the exposed bearing? I wonder if there will be a bearing replacement video in the future. 

[TEWKS]

On September 28, 2019 at 8:43 AM, Living the Dream said:

Think I’ll go ahead with changing the right side first, ride it for awhile and check back. 

 

Richard, you good with the extraction technique? Sure you've BTDT but just in case.

From DR many years ago so feel free to correct me.

 

1, pop the dust cover (done)

2, remove snap ring.

3, drill two small holes in seal at 3 & 9 o'clock.

4, insert two small sheet metal screws in holes and wiggle & pull on seal with pliers.

 

I used a plastic cup that fit the seal perfectly to drive the new one in.

[Rougarou]

5 hours ago, TEWKS said:

 

Richard, you good with the extraction technique? Sure you've BTDT but just in case.

From DR many years ago so feel free to correct me.

 

1, pop the dust cover (done)

2, remove snap ring.

3, drill two small holes in seal at 3 & 9 o'clock.

4, insert two small sheet metal screws in holes and wiggle & pull on seal with pliers.

 

I used a plastic cup that fit the seal perfectly to drive the new one in.

 

Yep, easy as anything, I just used the old seal to nail it back in.  Now I need to give it a week and see if it was ONLY this side that's leaking.