I am getting ready to do a massive upgrade/tune-up - some advice?

[dp-R1100RT]

Hello folks, I am getting ready to do a massive upgrade to the 1999 R1100RT bike.

 

I have the tune up stuff (plugs etc) and the new computer and 02 sensor.  After I do all of the "parts replacing", and tune-up stuff -  how do I balance the injection system?

 

I have to remove the gas tank to replace the hard parts and to do the tune-up., but I need the gas tank and high pressure fuel pump in order for the bike run, and in order to balance the cylinders. I need the gas tank out of the way to do the work. What is the procedure?

 

Thanks in advance for all of the helpful comments and support.

 

~dp

[dirtrider]

9 hours ago, dp-R1100RT said:

Hello folks, I am getting ready to do a massive upgrade to the 1999 R1100RT bike.

 

I have the tune up stuff (plugs etc) and the new computer and 02 sensor.  After I do all of the "parts replacing", and tune-up stuff -  how do I balance the injection system?

 

I have to remove the gas tank to replace the hard parts and to do the tune-up., but I need the gas tank and high pressure fuel pump in order for the bike run, and in order to balance the cylinders. I need the gas tank out of the way to do the work. What is the procedure?

 

Thanks in advance for all of the helpful comments and support.

 

~dp

 

Morning  dp-R1100RT

 

When you say  "how do I balance the injection system" are you referring to balancing the fuel injectors or balancing the throttle body air flow?

 

On the fuel injectors, you will have to send those out to a company that cleans & checks injector balance.

 

If just doing a throttle body (air flow) balance then you will need the engine running  for this. You can get the TB balance close enough for the engine to run  by setting the BBS screws to 1-1/2 turn out from lightly  seated then set/adjust the throttle cables so the both side throttle body's  lift off their base idle screws at the same time when slowly moving the twist grip.

 

You will need  a precise vacuum measuring device to adjust the throttle body air flow or you can make your own "U" tube manometer using some clear tubing & a yard stick or wood backer.

 

Putting the fuel tank back on will not interferer with balancing  the throttle body cross-side balance.

 

I have the tune up stuff (plugs etc) and the new computer and 02 sensor-- shouldn't greatly effect the TB balance so it should still run OK after changing those.

 

 

 

 

 

[Lowndes]

DP,

 

How many miles on this RT and how long have you had it?? 

 

I have a '99 R1100RT also, and have been thru a long learning curve with it, too.

 

 

Lowndes

[dan cata]

A funny method I have heard of but never tried myself, is stacking a coin under each pulley when it touches the stopping screws.

With the engine stopped, go WOT and hear the coins fall down the floor at the same time (or not) and adjust if needed

 

Might try this with the first bike I get my hands on and then counter test with the vacuum Harmonizer

 

Dan.

[RPG]

On 9/16/2019 at 5:25 AM, dan cata said:

A funny method I have heard of but never tried myself, is stacking a coin under each pulley when it touches the stopping screws.

With the engine stopped, go WOT and hear the coins fall down the floor at the same time (or not) and adjust if needed

 

Might try this with the first bike I get my hands on and then counter test with the vacuum Harmonizer

 

Dan.

Another great method for validating Isaac Newton's theory.

 

[AndyS]

On 9/16/2019 at 10:25 AM, dan cata said:

A funny method I have heard of but never tried myself, is stacking a coin under each pulley when it touches the stopping screws.

With the engine stopped, go WOT and hear the coins fall down the floor at the same time (or not) and adjust if needed

 

Might try this with the first bike I get my hands on and then counter test with the vacuum Harmonizer

 

Dan.

Depends what the coins hit on the way down I suppose!

[Lowndes]

I think I'd just save time and go straight to the Harmonizer.

[Lowndes]

If you listen very closely you can hear both butterflys in the TBs hit the stops at WOT and closed throttle with a quick twist of the grip.  A click-click at either end means adjust something.  When it's right there's only one CLICK.  When your ear gets tuned in to the sound and you figure out which side to adjust you can get it extremely close.  I can operate the throttle with one hand and adjust either TB with the other

 

I usually don't worry about the WOT so much as I use that as my shift point and the ECU rev limiter cuts in and leaves you running on one cylinder anyway.  It might help in those fleeting moments at full throttle and less that max RPM's that we live for.

 

BEFORE doing any of the adjustments I'd recommend a thorough cleaning of both TB's and most importantly the BBS and its passages inside the TB body.  Mark the exact position of each BBS including the turns to a gentle close.  There are two ports inside the bore, one just in front of the closed butterfly plate and  another just behind it, and the BBS screw hole.  The inside passages are VERY small, accumulate a bunch of crud, and greatly affect the balance and running at idle.  Run about a full can of spray carb cleaner thru each TB and parts, and don't let any into the intake port.

[roger 04 rt]

On 9/15/2019 at 12:50 AM, dp-R1100RT said:

Hello folks, I am getting ready to do a massive upgrade to the 1999 R1100RT bike.

 

I have the tune up stuff (plugs etc) and the new computer and 02 sensor.  After I do all of the "parts replacing", and tune-up stuff -  how do I balance the injection system?

 

I have to remove the gas tank to replace the hard parts and to do the tune-up., but I need the gas tank and high pressure fuel pump in order for the bike run, and in order to balance the cylinders. I need the gas tank out of the way to do the work. What is the procedure?

 

Thanks in advance for all of the helpful comments and support.

 

~dp

 

Why are you replacing the computer?

[dp-R1100RT]

On 9/23/2019 at 7:06 AM, roger 04 rt said:

 

Why are you replacing the computer?

Sorry folks...  I forgot to hit the notification button when I posted this and I was not getting notified of replies.  I also have not been on in awhile as I have been busy with other projects.  I am not actually replacing the computer.  It is an adjustable piggy back computer that alters the data from the O2 sensor in order to enrich the A/F mixture.  The reason to do this is because all manufacturers run fuel injection systems as lean as possible in order to meet emission standards.  This fix brings the A/F ratio back to the optimum from a performance standpoint.  The results are a wider power band, usually more power, a cooler running engine, elimination of any surge problems, and better fuel economy.  Mainly the fuel savings come from being able to run at lower RPMs and/or less throttle for the same power level - obviously, if you are running the bike hard the fuel economy will be slightly worse.

 

Regarding the balancing the throttle bodies, I have a good manometer, and I found a video online showing that the cable can be reached with the tank on once the Tupperware has been removed.

 

Thanks for all of the responses.

 

I don't understand why it is not an option to automatically follow any discussion that a member initiates.  Either that, or I just have not found that setting.  I have run multiple forums using SMF software over the years, and this is a simple profile option.  It seems obvious that if you initiate a new discussion that you will want to be notified of any responses.

[Selden]

Here are two more suggestions:

 

1) Take photos at every step of disassembly. They will be a priceless reference when it comes time to put things back together again.

2) Starting with a large piece of cardboard, or 2 smaller ones for left and right, drill holes in positions approximately corresponding to where the screws for the bodywork go. As you remove each screw, stick it in the corresponding hole. This makes it very difficult to lose screws, and they aren't all the same length.

 

I can't remember if you asked about this in another topic, but while it's apart, be prepared to replace the OEM rubber brakelines (if they haven't been already), and re-wrap the wiring harness, as the OEM rubber wrapping will have oxidized and (if any is left) will be falling apart. Replace clutch and throttle cables as well. They are probably fine, but cables are relatively cheap, while a breakdown on the road can be both inconvenient and expensive.

[dp-R1100RT]

On 9/25/2019 at 6:54 PM, Selden said:

Here are two more suggestions:

 

1) Take photos at every step of disassembly. They will be a priceless reference when it comes time to put things back together again.

2) Starting with a large piece of cardboard, or 2 smaller ones for left and right, drill holes in positions approximately corresponding to where the screws for the bodywork go. As you remove each screw, stick it in the corresponding hole. This makes it very difficult to lose screws, and they aren't all the same length.

 

I can't remember if you asked about this in another topic, but while it's apart, be prepared to replace the OEM rubber brakelines (if they haven't been already), and re-wrap the wiring harness, as the OEM rubber wrapping will have oxidized and (if any is left) will be falling apart. Replace clutch and throttle cables as well. They are probably fine, but cables are relatively cheap, while a breakdown on the road can be both inconvenient and expensive.

Thanks Selden.

 

I was considering purchasing a new throttle cable assembly since the bike is 20 years old... cables stretch, and plastic gets brittle.  The new clutch cable is probably also a good idea, and the cardboard for the screws is an awesome tip.