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R1100RT oil sight glass - popped out after install


McDuugle

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Was my second attempt... First one glass shattered when tapping it home.  Second one, BMW tech told me put a little oil on the outside... probably not the best move.... popped out after about 3 miles.

It just seams that the new part is to tight to fit into place properly.  I am gently coxing it in by tapping a socket on it thats the same size.  I was thinking popping the sight glass into the freezer might be helpful?  Any suggestions?  Even with the oil I have a feeling it did not seat all the way.

 

David

 

 

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15 minutes ago, McDuugle said:

Was my second attempt... First one glass shattered when tapping it home.  Second one, BMW tech told me put a little oil on the outside... probably not the best move.... popped out after about 3 miles.

It just seams that the new part is to tight to fit into place properly.  I am gently coxing it in by tapping a socket on it thats the same size.  I was thinking popping the sight glass into the freezer might be helpful?  Any suggestions?  Even with the oil I have a feeling it did not seat all the way.

 

David

 

 

 

 

Afternoon David

 

NEVER use oil to lubricate the OD of a new sight glass, that REALLY increases the chance of it popping out. (even an old BMW service bulletin on not doing this).

 

If you are fast, have a proper fitting thin driver, & get right on it then brake clean is the best lube as it is slick when wet but dries up to no residual lube quickly.

 

If you work slower, or have problems lining everything up quickly then the 2nd best lube is glass cleaner. That is a decent lube & eventually will mostly go away leaving the sight glass firmly in place but gives you lots more working time before it dries up.

 

Years & years ago BMW recommended using tire mounting lube but I always questioned that recommendation so never really warmed up to using that.

 

Now, BMW pretty well recommends using brake clean, but as mentioned, you need proper tools & the ability to work FAST.

 

In any case, make sure the hole in the engine block is squeaky clean (all old sight glass rubber remnants removed)  or installing the new sight glass will be very difficult to get seated properly.

 

A socket is an iffy way to drive in that new-design real-glass sight glass as the internal glass lens extends out board close to the outer edge of the rubber. If the socket inner thickness  overlaps that glass edge then it can easily crack the glass lens while driving it in.

 

 

 

 

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Thanks DR!  Will give it a shot! Do you think this is still usable.  same thing happened on the first one I installed.... Its just crazy tight.  And I was not going crazy by pounding this thing in by any means.

20190822_111506.jpg

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8 minutes ago, McDuugle said:

Thanks DR!  Will give it a shot! Do you think this is still usable.  same thing happened on the first one I installed.... Its just crazy tight.  And I was not going crazy by pounding this thing in by any means.

 

 

Afternoon David

 

Can't really tell much from the picture-- If I was installing  a new sight glass for someone else I would most definitely install a new one. If installing for myself I would probably be tempted to re-use that one. (those devils are expensive)

 

If you are reinstalling that one I suggest that you buy a rubber-type expansion plug (freeze plug) of the correct size to fit the engine block hole then carry that with you. If your new sight glass pops out you can quickly install that expansion plug then top off with oil to get you home.

 

 

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Tell me about it haha, this is the second one I had to purchase.... On another note, the original one I removed because it was leaking was plastic.  So i just heated a flat head screw driver, melted through the middle and after it cooled, was able to just pop it out.   How does one remove these new GLASS sights?  Damaging he glass could throw shards into the engine?

 

I will try to install this one if it works great, if it leaks I will have to buy my third...

 

 

 

 

 

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9 minutes ago, McDuugle said:

Tell me about it haha, this is the second one I had to purchase.... On another note, the original one I removed because it was leaking was plastic.  So i just heated a flat head screw driver, melted through the middle and after it cooled, was able to just pop it out.   How does one remove these new GLASS sights?  Damaging he glass could throw shards into the engine?

 

I will try to install this one if it works great, if it leaks I will have to buy my third...

 

 

Afternoon David

 

BMW makes a special (expensive) cutter type tool that just fits around the perimeter of the sight glass then mills the rubber out so then the glass lens just comes right out. (basically 1200 engine special tools)

 

Here is BMW PDF on removing/installing that glass sight glass in the 1200 engine (same as the 1100/1150 except the 1200 uses a snap ring as a secondary retainer.  

 

https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/NotesParts/11118523906_1.pdf

 

Note the warning___ 

 

Attention

An oil-level indicator installed with lubricant can work loose.

Use only brake cleaner for the installation process.

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Ouch... Is there a way around getting the tool?  I assume thats one of the reasons they switched to glass from plastic, make life harder for people with out the tool.  The plastic may get a little hazy, but boy was it easy to remove...

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9 minutes ago, McDuugle said:

Ouch... Is there a way around getting the tool?  I assume thats one of the reasons they switched to glass from plastic, make life harder for people with out the tool.  The plastic may get a little hazy, but boy was it easy to remove...

 

Afternoon David

 

I think (not 100% sure) that BMW changed because the plastic would soften with engine/exhaust heat then could blow out.

 

Back in the 1100/1150 days a number of sight glasses would blow out after allowing the engine to fast idle in place for a long while before riding off.

 

BMW also added that retention ring on the 1200 bikes (that was a great retention  improvement).

 

I always install the new real glass sight glass but ALWAYS carried the old plastic-lens replacement with me as that was SO MUCH easier to install out on  the road if needed (usually someone else's bike)

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I did mine last year to replace a weeping one. I couldn't find the correct angle to tap it in and then my son suggested laying down the bike on the right side. So I did that and it was easy as ever. Make sure both mating surfaces are clean. Use a socket and hammer it in. I have a 1000 miles since and no leaks.

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Just pushed the bike back from the Chili's parking lot... what a work out.  This sucker is not going in at this point.... really tight, the original i can literally push in my hand, this one I cant even get started by hand....

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26 minutes ago, McDuugle said:

Just pushed the bike back from the Chili's parking lot... what a work out.  This sucker is not going in at this point.... really tight, the original i can literally push in my hand, this one I cant even get started by hand....

 

Afternoon David

 

First, clean it up real good with brake clean (get all the oil off of it), then put out in the hot sun for an hour or so, that should shrink the rubber a bit once the solvent evaporates from the rubber pores,  then hopefully it should go in.

 

Once it sees oil  (petroleum) those things can swell up slightly.   

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Thanks as always DR, and AviP.  Ended up laying the bike down, and just went at it until it finally relented.  Finally went in, and more than the last go around.  Pretty certain its flush and tight!  Will keep an eye on it to make sure there are no seeps or any movement.  

 

 

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When mine started seeping a few years ago I looped a piece of thin wire around the oil pressure sensor, across the face of the sight glass, and around one of the bolts at the front of the engine. I was pretty pleased with the results. I have a picture of it, but I can never post pictures to this site. PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.

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5 hours ago, Jim Moore said:

When mine started seeping a few years ago I looped a piece of thin wire around the oil pressure sensor, across the face of the sight glass, and around one of the bolts at the front of the engine. I was pretty pleased with the results. I have a picture of it, but I can never post pictures to this site. PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.

Jim - have you tried posting since the site upgrade this year? It’s drag and drop now! (On a desktop anyway - on a mobile device it’s tap and select.)

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  • 9 months later...

I just installed a new sight glass.  Quick question: how can you tell if the sight glass is fully seated?  I know for other seals, it'll give a solid sound when you whack it but this ones awkwardly placed and I don't want to hit it too hard.  There's about a 1mm lip around the seal.

 

Thank you.

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10 hours ago, Imgnr said:

I just installed a new sight glass.  Quick question: how can you tell if the sight glass is fully seated?  I know for other seals, it'll give a solid sound when you whack it but this ones awkwardly placed and I don't want to hit it too hard.  There's about a 1mm lip around the seal.

 

Thank you.

Morning  Imgnr

 

Please explain this--  There's about a 1mm lip around the seal.

 

Is the seal recessed 1mm or sticking out 1mm?

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Recessed.  I wacked it a few more times (thank God I didn't crack the glass).  It seems to be in as far as it'll go.

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11 hours ago, Imgnr said:

Recessed.  I wacked it a few more times (thank God I didn't crack the glass).  It seems to be in as far as it'll go.

Morning Imgnr

 

Top of sight glass should be about where the sight glass case taper ends.

 

aBGjjO0.jpg

 

 

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