Oil drain valve

[AndyS]

Has anyone had experience of the  Stahlbus oil drain valve M20x1.5  (https://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/oil-drain-valves) or equivelant?

Any thoughts?

[Pappy35]

That would be great for Camhead (and earlier) engines for the transmission drain port. Changing the transmission oil is always a god-awful mess. I bought a Fumoto drain valve but couldn't install it the last time because I needed one of their extensions to clear a transmission housing protrusion next to the drain hole. I might just have to give this one a go though. Thanks for posting it.

 

PS - Stahlbus' US site shows the wrong thread for my K26 so you best check to make sure you know what your plug's thread pitch is before ordering. They are pricey and close to $50.

[Pappy35]

You asked about equivalents. I've used Fumoto drain valves in my cars for a couple of years now. I've not used them on any bikes yet but so far they have been perfectly reliable, cheap, and makes oil changes a total piece of cake. They are fairly long though so I've not gotten one for my bike's engine oil drain though due to ground clearance concerns.

[BrianM]

Have something similar on a diesel truck for the last 18 years with no problems.

 

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ez-dp-22mmpl-dg/drain-valves

[Inigo]

I installed the Stahlbus on my 2015 R1200RT shortly after getting the bike and have had no issues.  Draining the oil is quick, simple, and clean.  I have a 2 inch hose connected to the outlet valve and when I need to drain the oil, the hot, dirty oil flows directly into my oil pan with no splatters or spills.  I was initially concerned that the approx 5/8" protruding valve might be an issue but I found that it was fairly well protected and have not had any problems.

[AndyS]

3 hours ago, Inigo said:

I installed the Stahlbus on my 2015 R1200RT shortly after getting the bike and have had no issues.  Draining the oil is quick, simple, and clean.  I have a 2 inch hose connected to the outlet valve and when I need to drain the oil, the hot, dirty oil flows directly into my oil pan with no splatters or spills.  I was initially concerned that the approx 5/8" protruding valve might be an issue but I found that it was fairly well protected and have not had any problems.

 

It is great to hear from someone who has done it on the Wethead.

Can you remember where you bought it, and what it's part number is?

The only thing that puts me off is that there in no magnet in there. That would be a great addition.

[PadG]

How much further does the valve stick down?  I would be afraid of it snagging on something on the road!

[AndyS]

I am in touch with Stalbus and have asked them for dimensional information.

As to concerns about it getting snagged, I understand what you are asking. On the K52 RT the down-pipes have a crossover pipe, and I am convinced the drain port would not protrude beyond that.

[Inigo]

Sorry for the late reply, it's been a busy week.

 

I am not completely sure where I bought it but it was most likely from the US distributor of the Stahlbus products.  The part number is

SB-210511-S-NA (this is for an M20 X 1.5 fitting).

I have attached a photo of where it fits under the bike.  The valve is about 2" aft of the center of the crossover exhaust pipe and protrudes almost exactly 0.5" below the bottom of the exhaust pipe.  Replacing the standard oil plug with the magnet has also been a concern of mine.  I have read about several people that made straps that fit around the oil filter that have pockets for permanent magnets.  It sounds like an excellent solution to me and one I will likely put together.

[PadG]

Thanks for that picture!  Getting the darn thing snagged on potential road debris is my biggest concern, and worse if it snagged and gets ripped off!  The question to myself is whether that is worth the effort of doing the normal oil drain every 6k miles? 

[dirtrider]

Morning __

 

Not the same bike (but close) --

 

Last fall I was doing a pre-winter-storage service on a 1200RT (camhead) for a relative & that bike had some type of  oil drain thingy (not the exact same as Andy pictured here) but close looking & extended down about the same (it was on the bike when he bought it used).

 

As I was riding the bike onto my motorcycle lift that drain valve caught the joint on my lift where the ramp meets the main table. It didn't break off but it caught pretty hard & the bike jumped. So I removed it to install a conventional BMW drain plug. (no big deal).

 

What really unimpressed me about the drain valve was in how long the threads were as it stuck into the engine case well above the bottom of the inside of the engine case. It didn't extend far enough to hit anything inside but  it was definitely long enough to not allow the all the engine oil to drain out.

 

Just something to look into on that type of drain valve.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Inigo]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

What really unimpressed me about the drain valve was in how long the threads were as it stuck into the engine case well above the bottom of the inside of the engine case. It didn't extend far enough to hit anything inside but  it was definitely long enough to not allow the all the engine oil to drain out.

 

I understand your point and I never considered or looked at that part of the oil valve.  I think at the next oil change I am going to remove the valve and take a closer look at the dimensions.  It's definitely simple to reinsert the stock plug.

[dirtrider]

6 minutes ago, Inigo said:

 

I understand your point and I never considered or looked at that part of the oil valve.  I think at the next oil change I am going to remove the valve and take a closer look at the dimensions.  It's definitely simple to reinsert the stock plug.

 

 

Morning  Inigo

 

Maybe you can call the valve supplier or manufacture & get the specs, that way you might not have to remove it.

 

Even if it's long you can just  remove it, then figure out how thick the crankcase is in the drain plug area, then drill a hole in the side of the valve threads even with the inside of the crankcase.  

[Ken S]

1 hour ago, dirtrider said:

drill a hole in the side of the valve threads even with the inside of the crankcase

DR: I appreciate your experienced perspective, and no-nonsense, get-'er-done suggestions.

[Pappy35]

I don't see a need for a valved drain plug for the engine (and tranny for you water-cooled types) as it's right there with a straight, clear shot to the drain pan. On my Camhead, I would not put one the engine oil drain for the same reason but I am putting one on the gearbox plug at the next change. It's almost impossible to do that without it getting all over everything (especially the center stand). That plug is quite recessed so if it were to hit road debris tearing that valve off would not be the worse of one's concerns.

[AndyS]

Well, after taking a look at the external protrusion of the drain valve I have decided it does protrude more than I am comfortable with. So I will not pursue this item.

[PadG]

Andy - I remember this valve being brought up for discussion a few years back, and I had the same concern back then.  In rethinking it, my concerns remains, and where I am most likely to run into potential problem is when I ride over to see my grandkids.  For some reasons, in their neighborhood, there is a big drop (about 8 inches or so) from the end of the concrete driveway to the street.  That is where I suspect that the bottom of the RT's sump does get very close to making contact as I ride onto or off their driveway!

 

Oh, yeah . . . one more time . . . . .THANKS Inigo for posting the picture!

[dirtrider]

5 hours ago, AndyS said:

Well, after taking a look at the external protrusion of the drain valve I have decided it does protrude more than I am comfortable with. So I will not pursue this item.

 

 

Morning Andy

 

Yes, those things are an  answer looking for a question.  Way more potential for a sudden oil loss disaster than the very little gain at oil change time.

 

Personally I prefer a (GOOD QUALITY) magnetic  drain plug as at least those give you some idea on what is floating around in the crankcase. I also cut every other oil filter open & inspect the inner element as that gives a good view of what is IN the oil supply (this even shows the non magnetic particles)

[LAF]

Never understood the need myself but the point of it may be sticking up in the pan and not allowing the heavy particulates drain out would be very bad IMHO.  I had never thought of that in my disdain for them but is a huge and very good point. 

 

I guess the protrusion down was my turn off and I never think it is good to induce another point of failure.  I mean they are even in that they thread in the bottom of the pan, but then the valve, however it opens is another point of failure.  I have seen this one posted and another one that opened in a different way.  

 

Hey if works for someone great. 

 

It probably would be safe on my GS because I have a bash plate, but since I have to remove the bash plate what difference is the drain plug?  I guess that is the point if you have to take an action to do something, what difference is it to turn something with your fingers or with a socket? 

[Pappy35]

What I don't get is why: The plug is easy to get to and there's an unobstructed drop into the drain pan (at least on my Camhead anyways) and I can drop the oil without getting one drop on my fingers. For my gearbox oil, yes, due to the impeded exit path but that doesn't apply to the Wetheads as it's a common sump.

[AndyS]

23 hours ago, Pappy35 said:

What I don't get is why: The plug is easy to get to and there's an unobstructed drop into the drain pan (at least on my Camhead anyways) and I can drop the oil without getting one drop on my fingers. For my gearbox oil, yes, due to the impeded exit path but that doesn't apply to the Wetheads as it's a common sump.

The reason is simple. It is not about the ease of access. It is about how clean an oil change can be. It's is not a big deal. But I have used this sort of thing outside the automotive world and found it to be a clean - almost sterile procedure. I like it. However, the loss of a magnetic plug, the fact that it doesn't allow the whole of the sump to empty, and the fact that it protrudes to far are enough negative points to stay away from it this time. For those vehicles where the sump plug is at the bottom, but point sideways, this may be ok.

[strataj]

57 minutes ago, AndyS said:

The reason is simple. It is not about the ease of access. It is about how clean an oil change can be. It's is not a big deal. But I have used this sort of thing outside the automotive world and found it to be a clean - almost sterile procedure. I like it. However, the loss of a magnetic plug, the fact that it doesn't allow the whole of the sump to empty, and the fact that it protrudes to far are enough negative points to stay away from it this time. For those vehicles where the sump plug is at the bottom, but point sideways, this may be ok.

If I lift the catch pan up while removing the drain plug I don't seem to have any splatter.  You don't need to hold it up very long only. 

 

Jay

[Pappy35]

2 hours ago, AndyS said:

The reason is simple. It is not about the ease of access. It is about how clean an oil change can be.

 

I use one for my Durango because the drain is slightly inconvenient to reach. I just found that on my bike it's so easy to do it wasn't needed. Whatever you want is of course just fine.