Fork Oil Seal Replacement

[BRT Rider]

I noticed some oil leakage from one of my forks. I ordered the necessary replacement parts and plan on tackling this ovewr the weekend.

My question is... is it best to totally remove the fork t tube and slider to rebuild on bench or can youwork with parts left on bike? ui thought that if I removed the handlebars I could reach in and replace seal.

Any advise from those with experience on this is greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

[No_Twilight]

I have an RS but I think it is the same. The entire fork assembly comes right off when you slide it out of the triple tree crown. Then you work on the bench. IIRC, the proper amount of fork oil to put back in is 450ml. The only critical part is removing the old seal. Make absolutely sure you don't scratch the seating surface on the tube prying the old one out. I just followed the directions in Haynes. --Jerry

[psyctrance]

Haven't had to do this yet, but why would there be oil in the fork tubes? It was my impressions that the shock and spring on the telelever was the suspension and the forks allowed for turning. Sorry for the noob question.

[smiller]

As Jerry noted it's pretty easy to get the fork legs out (do it one at a time) and work on the bench so that is the easiest and best way. You might be able to somehow manage doing it on the bike but I think that would probably end up being more work rather than less.

 

The oil in the fork tubes is there just for lubrication. Any light fork oil at anywhere near the right level will do fine.

[Jim VonBaden]

I had to do it on my R1100RS once. The front fender bolts were stripped out, so I did it all on the bike! PITA, but it worked out fine. I used a 2" piece of PVC pipe, sanded down to fit, to tap the new seal back in squarely!

 

Jim

[BRT Rider]

Thanks to all for your guidance. I removed the forks and replaced the seals, and fluid with no problem. However I am not sure how to bleed these fork tubes. I understand that they should be in a no load position. I already remounted forks back onto bike. So, how do I bleed the fork tubes? Do I just open bleed valve and extract air our with bleeder equipment? How will I know when it is correct? I am just extracting air and NOT any fluid (since it is below seal), so what do I look for to know if it is done correctly.

I am just not sure about this part and how important it is.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[smiller]

It's not critical at all. Just remove the bleed screws on the top of the forks, place the bike on the centerstand and tilt it back so the front wheel is off the ground, and replace the bleed screws.

[KDeline]

I measured the forks before replacing the seal and bleed it down to that same height when it was finished. Good enough for me.

[bimmerbeemer]

In January of this year, I bought a '97 R1100RT with 4,700 miles on it. Rode it home several hundred miles and discovered the fork seals were leaking badly.

 

I just replaced the seals following the advice found in the archives. Tubes clean, seals installed correctly, proper amount of oil, etc. Now new seals are leaking, nearly as bad as the old ones, and after an all day ride, running down the back of the fork sliders.

 

What next? Do the job again with another set of seals?

[Jim VonBaden]

In January of this year, I bought a '97 R1100RT with 4,700 miles on it. Rode it home several hundred miles and discovered the fork seals were leaking badly.

 

I just replaced the seals following the advice found in the archives. Tubes clean, seals installed correctly, proper amount of oil, etc. Now new seals are leaking, nearly as bad as the old ones, and after an all day ride, running down the back of the fork sliders.

 

What next? Do the job again with another set of seals?

 

Have you checked your fork tubes for damage or scorring? Has you bike ever been in an accident, is it possibles the fork tubes are tweaked?

 

Jim

[bimmerbeemer]

tubes show no pitting, scoring, or such and appear to be in good shape. As for a previous wreck, don't know but don't think so. I'll check for alignment when I do the job again.

Thanks,

[Dave C.]

On my 2004 RT it has bushings inside the fork sliders that I think are a wear item.

 

Dave