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Replacing front tire - do I lube the axle?


Asymmetrical

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Asymmetrical

I removed the front wheel to replace the tire with a  new Pirelli Angel GT.  This is the first time I've removed the wheel and I expected to find a wheel bearing that I might have to lubricate.  Instead, after removing the quick release axle it looks as if the axle rides on a bushing in the wheel hub and is held in place on the left and right sides by 'clamping screws'.  The wheel bushing appears to rotate on quick release axle, but that quick release axle has only a little bit of a gray colored lubricant.  That doesn't seem enough to keep things rotating without friction.

 

The RT manual says nothing about greasing the quick release axle or the wheel hub bushing when I re-install the wheel, but that doesn't seem like it can be right.  What is the correct procedure?

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Bill_Walker

The BMW shop manual says "Clean and lubricate quick-release axle", and specifies Optimoly TA PN 18 21 9 062 599.  That's all I know.  I haven't had mine out yet, as I had a dealer do my only tire replacement due to time constraints.

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Hi  The wheel does not rotate on the axle  only the inner bearing ring is in contact.   The grease is to facilitate the axle coming out 

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Asymmetrical

Thanks Bill and Exportman.  So does this mean what I thought was a bushing was actually the inner race of the wheel bearing?

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Asymmetrical

I just checked the wheel hub again based on what Exportman said.  I see that the bearing is in the center of the hub, slightly raised from outer collars that clamp the quick release axle into place.  The bearing in the center rotates smoothly.  My mistake was in not seeing the slightly raised bearing was at the center and is what carries the wheel.  Thanks to Bill, I'll also pick up some moly grease for the axle.  Thanks gents.

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Frank Brown
2 hours ago, Exportman said:

Hi  The wheel does not rotate on the axle  only the inner bearing ring is in contact.   The grease is to facilitate the axle coming out 

And, to keep the axel from corroding/pitting/etc......

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Hi temp wheel bearing grease works fine, been using it for years and it's cheap.  Works great for Glocks and ARs as well if you are so inclined!

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Asymmetrical

Hijacking my own thread here ... but do you guys use copper anti-seize on the clamping bolts and quick release axle nut when reinstalling?

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3 hours ago, Asymmetrical said:

Hijacking my own thread here ... but do you guys use copper anti-seize on the clamping bolts and quick release axle nut when reinstalling?

 

Morning Asymmetrical

 

Personally I don't as the BMW manual doesn't call for it. If you do then be sure to adjust your torque specs to reflect a lubricated bolt & not the specified dry bolt.

 

On my 1200GS I actually use a small amount  of blue 243 Loctite on the threads & under the bolt head of the pinch bolts as that seals the moisture out of the threads & seals the bolt head area. I also use  a little 243 under the bolt head (only) on the axle end bolt as that secures as well as prevents moisture entry to the threads. 

That bike gets ridden through deep water  regularly with a hot lower fork/ axle area so I use LocTite to prevent bolt thread corrosion.

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Lube that axle!

 

I thought I had been keeping up with it on my prior road only 05 GS.But at last tire change it was a real bear to get off and some obvious corrosion(this in warm/dry central California)

Needless to say it was well cleaned and lubed before re install.

 

 

JR356

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Frank Brown
8 hours ago, Asymmetrical said:

Hijacking my own thread here ... but do you guys use copper anti-seize on the clamping bolts and quick release axle nut when reinstalling?

No.

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41 minutes ago, bdfbeemer said:

BMW shop told me to coat the axle with regular anti-seize, which I have been doing for a long while.

 

Morning  bdfbeemer

 

That is somewhat correct or could be somewhat misleading.

 

The suggested lube by BMW is the Optimoly TA & that IS an anti-seize product, not a Moly lube as some surmise.

 

Some anti-seize lubes (like the  Optimoly TA) are just fine as apparently they have been proven out by BMW testing.

 

The s-l-i-g-h-t issue  in using just ANY anti-seize is in not knowing exactly  what it contains. Some (not all) anti-seize products contain anti-galling particles or minor abrasives to prevent seizing  so if those products are used you could end up with early seal wear or premature axle/bushing ringing wear. Not the end of the world but not desirable either. Anti-seize is just that, an anti-seize, used  to prevent sticking  it is not a great general lubricant. But it is usually pretty darn waterproof

(just try to wash it off your hands or clothes).

 

Now, personally, I just use a standard lithium based waterproof wheel bearing grease as that has proven to work for me for many/many years now, across many different types of motorcycles, in just about any environment ridden in (in fact a number of motorcycle brands specify that type of grease on both front & rear wheel axles). 

 

In pulling my GS-A apart after many stream crossings, mud bogs, heavy rain riding I never see any signs of moisture or corrosion in the axle area  or behind the outer seals. (probably wouldn't with the suggested  Optimoly TA either) & I do have some Optimoly TA on my shelf. 

 

But the main reason that I don't use Optimoly TA or an anti-seize is clean up-- I hate (just hate) working with most anti-seize products outside of my shop area as that stuff is about impossible to get out of riding clothes, off of gloves,  or off your hands, or off of anything else that you might touch.

 

Every time that  I have had to work, road-side or a parking lot,  on a motorcycle axle that has anti-seize on it I regret it as most anti-seize products can make a mess of riding gear or anything else that a person touches with that stuff on their hands.    

 

 

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I've been changing my tires for years and have been using a general grease.  I now see BMW calls for Optimoly TA 18 21 9 062 599, someone else mention anti-seize.  I think I'll keep using a light coating of grease since the last 15 years have shown good results.

 

Jay

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55 minutes ago, dirtrider said:

The s-l-i-g-h-t issue  in using just ANY anti-seize is in not knowing exactly  what it contains. Some (not all) anti-seize products contain anti-galling particles or minor abrasives to prevent seizing  so if those products are used you could end up with early seal wear or premature axle/bushing ringing wear.

 

That is interesting because I have used Never Seez for the last 20 years, mostly because I was able to get it free (well up until this last January anyway).    Although, I have not noticed premature seal or axle/bushing wear on my '99 RT, or any other axle/shaft for that matter, I also hadn't considered these products could be abrasive to the point to promote premature failure either. 

 

I will say Never Seez is so effective at corrosion control that only super thin coating is needed, which might mitigate the issue you outlined above.  I particularly like Never Seez PNS VS lithium grease on my snowblower axles as it really stops corrosion in the salty water that machine's axles are exposed to better than lithium axle grease.

 

The current version I have is the PNS which will last me for at least 5 more years...but maybe this is exactly what you are referring to?image.thumb.png.81d887de73c06589fc7a11cc9c23e7e5.png

 

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3 hours ago, strataj said:

I've been changing my tires for years and have been using a general grease.  I now see BMW calls for Optimoly TA 18 21 9 062 599, someone else mention anti-seize.  I think I'll keep using a light coating of grease since the last 15 years have shown good results.

 

Jay

I went out to the shop, I'm using the same (a-like) as D.R. standard lithium based waterproof wheel bearing grease.

 

Jay

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