r1150rt Rocker removal (changing pushrods)

[rhetoric]

I'm replacing my pushrods and the two tutorials I've seen (Chris Harris youtube and MrDuhFactor) BOTH skip the procedure right before removing the valve rockers.  I know the pushrods just fall/slide out once the rockers are removed, but...

I know there is a bracket on the bottom of the head that holds the bottom (lower) end of the rockers, but I don't know if I have to remove more than that bracket, if if the rockers will just slide out of the top bracket when I remove the lower bracket or if there are other fastners that need to go up there, too.  Hope this makes sense.  Can't find a tutorial to save my life and I can't say I'm enthusiastic about just taking things apart w/o a plan (for the record, I have the BMW CD, but my computer doesn't want to play it). You can see the bracket that I know I must remove in the bottom of this image.

 

 

(Sorry for the pile of questions, lately... trying to get her ready for a cross country trip and lots of things going on!)

Paul

Don't want to post the link, but for the Chris Harris version, search "oilhead engine noise"
and for the MrDuFactor, search "r1150gs engine knock"

[dirtrider]

45 minutes ago, rhetoric said:

I'm replacing my pushrods and the two tutorials I've seen (Chris Harris youtube and MrDuhFactor) BOTH skip the procedure right before removing the valve rockers.  I know the pushrods just fall/slide out once the rockers are removed, but...

I know there is a bracket on the bottom of the head that holds the bottom (lower) end of the rockers, but I don't know if I have to remove more than that bracket, if if the rockers will just slide out of the top bracket when I remove the lower bracket or if there are other fastners that need to go up there, too.  Hope this makes sense.  Can't find a tutorial to save my life and I can't say I'm enthusiastic about just taking things apart w/o a plan (for the record, I have the BMW CD, but my computer doesn't want to play it). You can see the bracket that I know I must remove in the bottom of this image.
 

 

 

(Sorry for the pile of questions, lately... trying to get her ready for a cross country trip and lots of things going on!)

Paul

Don't want to post the link, but for the Chris Harris version, search "oilhead engine noise"
and for the MrDuFactor, search "r1150gs engine knock"

 

Afternoon  rhetoric

 

They should come out OK. Remove bearing cap & retaining bolts.

 

[rhetoric]

Excellent!  Thanks once again!

 

[dirtrider]

Just now, rhetoric said:

Excellent!  Thanks once again!

 

 

Afternoon  rhetoric

 

Shouldn't be a problem, don't forget to set rocker end play & be careful of proper head nut torque on that one stud.

[AnotherLee]

 

5 hours ago, rhetoric said:

for the record, I have the BMW CD, but my computer doesn't want to play it

 

Hey, rhetoric, I had a problem with cd manual not working and got some good advice here:

BMW Rep Rom not working

Hope it helps...

[rhetoric]

On 4/3/2019 at 8:20 PM, AnotherLee said:

 

 

Hey, rhetoric, I had a problem with cd manual not working and got some good advice here:

BMW Rep Rom not working

Hope it helps...

I must have held my mouth right, because all the sudden, it works!

[rhetoric]

So... One side done...  My CD manual started working, so I was able to follow along, get the torques, etc.

Once you remove the lower bracket (4 star bolts and one head nut) they ask you to stick a drift in the little hole on the rocker shaft, and rock them back and forth, but that alone won't release them.  You also need to loosen all of the head nuts (not sure why) and then the two star bit screws connected by a flat spring (near the top of the rockers).  Once I released those screws the whole assembly relaxed and slid right out.  plugged in the new pushrods and put it all back together w/ the proper torques.  Had a very loud tapping when I fired it up that lasted about 5 seconds and then cleared up.  I suppose getting oil to the new rods?  

Of course, you have to do your valves again (and the rocker play) which, for a rookie like me, is a royal pain in the...

Supposed to rain hard tomorrow (and wash the salt off the roads) so maybe I'll be able to do the other side and take it for a test ride.

I made a short video tutorial.  Some day I'll work up the courage to post stuff on the yoobtube.

[dirtrider]

9 hours ago, rhetoric said:

So... One side done...  My CD manual started working, so I was able to follow along, get the torques, etc.

Once you remove the lower bracket (4 star bolts and one head nut) they ask you to stick a drift in the little hole on the rocker shaft, and rock them back and forth, but that alone won't release them.  You also need to loosen all of the head nuts (not sure why) and then the two star bit screws connected by a flat spring (near the top of the rockers).  Once I released those screws the whole assembly relaxed and slid right out.  plugged in the new pushrods and put it all back together w/ the proper torques.  Had a very loud tapping when I fired it up that lasted about 5 seconds and then cleared up.  I suppose getting oil to the new rods?  

Of course, you have to do your valves again (and the rocker play) which, for a rookie like me, is a royal pain in the...

Supposed to rain hard tomorrow (and wash the salt off the roads) so maybe I'll be able to do the other side and take it for a test ride.

I made a short video tutorial.  Some day I'll work up the courage to post stuff on the yoobtube.

 

Morning rhetoric

 

That is surprising as you shouldn't have to loosen the other cyl head retaining nuts (that's a good way to end up with a future leaking head gasket).  

 

You do have to remove the 2 (retaining) bolts that go into the rocker shaft notches (the ones that hold the flat spring on). That's the reason that I put those 2 gray arrows on the picture that I posted above (should have been red arrows & labeled I guess)

 

 Try the other side by JUST removing the bearing cap & the 2 retaining bolts (2 spring plate bolts).

 

 

[rhetoric]

4 hours ago, dirtrider said:

 

Morning rhetoric

 

That is surprising as you shouldn't have to loosen the other cyl head retaining nuts (that's a good way to end up with a future leaking head gasket).  

 

You do have to remove the 2 (retaining) bolts that go into the rocker shaft notches (the ones that hold the flat spring on). That's the reason that I put those 2 gray arrows on the picture that I posted above (should have been red arrows & labeled I guess)

 

 Try the other side by JUST removing the bearing cap & the 2 retaining bolts (2 spring plate bolts).

 

 

Will do.  That side already had a leak so I thought, what the heck.  Did the 20nm plus 180.  We will see!

[rhetoric]

So... In order to remove the rocker you have to remove the lower head nuts... The one because it's on the bracket... The other because the rocker cylinder hits the nut when it's trying to slide out.  And my inexpert opinion tells me that if in going to loosen half the head, I'd better just make sure all four are the same... so I loosened and torqued them all.  No leaks so far.

Now I've got a loud ticking on the left side so I'm going to double check my adjustment.  Sigh.  Then if it's still noisy I'll do the throttle body...  But I'm pretty sure I just screwed up the adjustment.... I'll keep you posted (since I know you're all on the edge of your seats!).  Turns out I had only hand tightened the rocker bracket on the right side... which threw my adjustment all out of kilter.. which is now at spec and purring like a BMW.  Still no leaks.  :-)