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ABS 2 brake bleeding '99R1100R


dave_a

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I've bled my brakes twice since owning the bike to essentially change the fluid in the system. No problems, the brakes are great. BUT I do get a bit more lever on the second pump as if there is a bit of air in the system. I have the tank off (playing with fuel hoses) and those two big ABS bleed screws are right on top. Nice and easy to get at. They are bleed screws, right?

 

So - Is there any special sequence to bleed the entire system including the ABS? Keep in mind this is the old ABS system, that's slow to cycle. Nothing in my Haynes manual procedurally.

Thanks in advance.

Dave_a

 

ABS R1100R.jpg

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7 minutes ago, dave_a said:

I've bled my brakes twice since owning the bike to essentially change the fluid in the system. No problems, the brakes are great. BUT I do get a bit more lever on the second pump as if there is a bit of air in the system. I have the tank off (playing with fuel hoses) and those two big ABS bleed screws are right on top. Nice and easy to get at. They are bleed screws, right?

 

So - Is there any special sequence to bleed the entire system including the ABS? Keep in mind this is the old ABS system, that's slow to cycle. Nothing in my Haynes manual procedurally.

Thanks in advance.

Dave_a

 

 

 

Afternoon Dave

 

If you are not getting any air out if the ABS module & the wheel bleeders when bleeding then you don't have any air.

 

Having a slightly better lever on the 2nd pull is pretty normal as the first pull takes the slack out of the caliper piston/pads & inflates the rubber brake hoses then the 2nd pull doesn't have top do that.

 

You might also have some brake hose swelling if the brake hoses are older & soft.

 

 

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18 minutes ago, dave_a said:

DR, We'll I havent bled the ABS.

That's why I asked if there was a sequence. ABS first or last?

 

 

Evening Dave

 

The BMW manual isn't very specific on the bleeding order but does recommend that the front caliper pistons be pushed back on both front calipers using special setting tools. (just use some tapered shims)

 

With your system 'now' being full of fluid I would start by pushing the front brake pads back into the calipers then putting some plastic (or Cedar)  shims between the brake pads & brake rotors to hold the pistons back in the bores (you don't need to do this on the rear).

 

Then start by bleeding at the ABS bleeder for the front circuit, then bleed both front calipers, then go back & re-bleed at the ABS again.

 

On the rear-- bleed at the rear ABS bleeder , then bleed the rear caliper, then go back & re-bleed at the ABS again.  

 

It probably won't make much difference but if you suspect air in the ABS controller then before bleeding the brakes you might ride the bike on a dirt or grave road then (carefully)  get the front & rear to do an ABS stop (cycle the ABS system).  

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Evening D.R. ___,

 

As for a 2000 R 1200 C.....

 

Do you think air in the ABS module would cause a piston fault?   The reason I ask is I have had piston fault failure a few years ago and with a (what I thought was) good bleed, I got the fault code to clear.  I also did excercise the ABS on a patch of smooth ice.  (Yes.  Do not try that at home; it was small enough for one wheel at a time in a low speed parking area.)

 

The issue re-occurred recently (after a year or so) and I would get the code cleared and sometimes I got all the way to work with no issues (9 miles.)  While there, I did the ABS excercise on the gravel part of the yard.  Park the bike and go to leave 9 or 10 hours later and BLAM,  fault code returned after test sequence.  Got home, cleared the codes and repeat all over again.  Some times, the very next morning, the fault returned first thing.  I have been riding with them rail-roading for several months, so I am not in a major hurry to fix this on my seconday bike.

 

I can say the brake lines are not the originals and all have been replaced once or twice. 

 

Before I remove the module to send out for a re-build, I may take another stab at bleeding the brakes again, this time with new S/S lines installed.  I did not utilize the calipers-pushed-back-with-shims method for the front caliper bleed.  I just hate to send it out for repair if it is not needed.

 

Thanks again.

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11 hours ago, wbw6cos said:

Evening D.R. ___,

 

As for a 2000 R 1200 C.....

 

Do you think air in the ABS module would cause a piston fault?   The reason I ask is I have had piston fault failure a few years ago and with a (what I thought was) good bleed, I got the fault code to clear.  I also did excercise the ABS on a patch of smooth ice.  (Yes.  Do not try that at home; it was small enough for one wheel at a time in a low speed parking area.)

 

The issue re-occurred recently (after a year or so) and I would get the code cleared and sometimes I got all the way to work with no issues (9 miles.)  While there, I did the ABS excercise on the gravel part of the yard.  Park the bike and go to leave 9 or 10 hours later and BLAM,  fault code returned after test sequence.  Got home, cleared the codes and repeat all over again.  Some times, the very next morning, the fault returned first thing.  I have been riding with them rail-roading for several months, so I am not in a major hurry to fix this on my seconday bike.

 

I can say the brake lines are not the originals and all have been replaced once or twice. 

 

Before I remove the module to send out for a re-build, I may take another stab at bleeding the brakes again, this time with new S/S lines installed.  I did not utilize the calipers-pushed-back-with-shims method for the front caliper bleed.  I just hate to send it out for repair if it is not needed.

 

Thanks again.

 

Morning wbw6cos

 

This post on 'your' problem could takes us in a different direction than Dave's original thread that Dave started here so we would be hijacking Dave's thread.   (different bike different problem)

 

Please start your own thread on your problem & I will address your problem.  

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