Headlight will not turn off 2000 R1100R

[Swordofwords]

Key off, but light is still on.  Finally disconnected battery.  What do I need to do, Oh Obi Wan Kenobi's?

 

Casper, WY

[dirtrider]

8 minutes ago, Swordofwords said:

Key off, but light is still on.  Finally disconnected battery.  What do I need to do, Oh Obi Wan Kenobi's?

 

Casper, WY

 

Evening Swordofwords

 

Might be a stuck Load Relief relay.

 

Re-connect the battery, if light comes back on then remove load relief relay & see if it goes out.

 

Load relief really is 2nd relay in from the shifter side of the bike in front row in the under seat fuse box. 

[Miguel!]

The R1100RT has a parking light mode which turns on a small running light in the headlight compartment as well as the tail light. That setting is engaged by turning the handlebar all the way to the left and turning the key all the way to the left. 

 

Is it possible you done that?

 

Best

Miguel

[Swordofwords]

On ‎4‎/‎1‎/‎2019 at 4:59 PM, Miguel! said:

The R1100RT has a parking light mode which turns on a small running light in the headlight compartment as well as the tail light. That setting is engaged by turning the handlebar all the way to the left and turning the key all the way to the left. 

 

Is it possible you done that?

 

Best

Miguel

I will try them both.  First, after I charge up my Oddesy , then I'll try the NOT turning the handlebars left and NOT turning the key all the way left.  If that does not work, I'll pull the Load Relief relay located 

in from the shifter side of the bike in front row in the under seat fuse box. 

Thanks

Swordofwords

Casper, Wyoming

R1100RT

R1100RTP

1958 R69

1983 R80RT Velorex Sidecar

 

 

[Swordofwords]

 

On ‎4‎/‎1‎/‎2019 at 4:38 PM, dirtrider said:

 

Evening Swordofwords

 

Might be a stuck Load Relief relay.

 

Re-connect the battery, if light comes back on then remove load relief relay & see if it goes out.

 

Load relief really is 2nd relay in from the shifter side of the bike in front row in the under seat fuse box. 

Is the load relay easily available, or a substitute available?

[dirtrider]

7 minutes ago, Swordofwords said:

 

Is the load relay easily available, or a substitute available?

 

 

Afternoon Swordofwords

 

You should be able to swap it with the next relay in ( front row, 3rd relay in from the shifter side of bike). That is the horn relay so you can leave that one out during your test.  

[Swordofwords]

On ‎4‎/‎1‎/‎2019 at 4:33 PM, Swordofwords said:

Key off, but light is still on.  Finally disconnected battery.  What do I need to do, Oh Obi Wan Kenobi's?

 

Casper, WY

I did the turn the bars to the right trick, but it !on.  Pulled the relay, and off went the headlight.  Connectors looked grungy, so I'm soaking just the metal legs in vinegar, and will dry, 0000 steel wool buff and see.  Cross your connectors..er fingers

[spacewrench]

6 hours ago, Swordofwords said:

Connectors looked grungy, so I'm soaking just the metal legs in vinegar, and will dry, 0000 steel wool buff and see.

I don't think connectors would affect the internals of the relay...if it can't turn off, the problem is inside.  (I guess if the lines that are supposed to energize/kill the coil aren't connected solidly, you could have a problem.)

Can you test the relay itself?  I don't know the pinout, but typically there's a little diagram on it somewhere.  There's usually two pins that are connected together; these are the coil.  Then, there are three other pins: a common, an ON, and an OFF.  When the coil is not energized, you should see common<->OFF.  When the coil is energized (with 12V), you should hear a click, and see a connection between common<->ON.  If you try nothing else, you could connect the coil to a battery and see if it clicks.

[dirtrider]

20 hours ago, Swordofwords said:

I did the turn the bars to the right trick, but it !on.  Pulled the relay, and off went the headlight.  Connectors looked grungy, so I'm soaking just the metal legs in vinegar, and will dry, 0000 steel wool buff and see.  Cross your connectors..er fingers

 

Morning Swordofwords

 

OK, that tells us that your problem is either IN that 'load relay' itself, or in the control circuit  that controls that relay.  

 

That 'load relay' circuit is kind of  a strange circuit as it goes on with the key-on but then goes off as the starter is cranking, then goes back on again once the starter quits cranking.

 

The odd part is that the 'load-relief' relay uses the starter solenoid  pull-in coil winding as the low (ground) for it's own pull-in coil.

 

So troubleshooting the 'load relief' circuit with a meter takes some electrical knowledge on how that circuit works & what allows that relay control to function.

 

The easiest way to verify (IF)  the problem is in the control circuit (OR)  in the relay itself is to simply swap that 'load relief' relay with the horn relay (next relay in).

 

If swapping the 'load relief' relay with the 'horn relay' makes your headlight 'ON' problem go away then your root problem is more than likely a bad relay (stuck or fused load contacts). If the 'ON' headlight  problem doesn't go away then your issue is more than likely in the 'load relief' relay control circuit.

 

I doubt that dirty or grungy terminals on the relay terminals, or in the relay socket are your problem as that usually results in the headlight not working at all. Headlight staying on usually means good power flow TO & THROUGH  the relay not a resistance issue.

 

If the problem doesn't go away with a the 'horn relay' swap then you will need the minimum of a small 12v test light & preferably both a 12v test light and a volt-ohm meter. (we can then hopefully talk you through trouble shooting the 'load relief' circuit & it's operation).  

 

You can also (sort of) see if the control side is functioning by turning the key to ON (headlight should come on) , then pushing the starter button (headlight should go out) . If the headlight goes OFF when the starter is cranking then the relay is dropping headlight power as it should. If the headlight stays ON during starter cranking then the 'load relief' relay more than likely has welded or fused  internal contacts. 

 

  

[Swordofwords]

And if i can get part number?  I can't find it .  If it's  commonly available at an O'Reilly , let me know.

 

Thanks 

[dirtrider]

19 minutes ago, Swordofwords said:

And if i can get part number?  I can't find it .  If it's  commonly available at an O'Reilly , let me know.

 

Thanks 

 

Afternoon  Swordofwords

 

Is your relay bad????

 

As for part number?-- that is a good question--- My BMW parts book lists them by color, not position or usage.

 

I haven't bought a new load relief relay in many years as I just match them up to what I have in my relay drawer.

 

You might be able to  match yours up at an GOOD auto parts store that will give you the time to work with you on matching to what they have. (I don't have any generic part numbers to give you).

 

Your relay probably has some sort of a part number stenciled on it's plastic case.

 

Or, if you tell me the color I will find the BMW part number  in my parts book (I think I know the part number but don't want to give you incorrect info).

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Miguel!]

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